Wine Reviews

3138131380PortugalA dry Vinho Verde that has crisp citrus as well as riper yellow fruits. A blend of Alvarinho with Trajadura, it comes from the north of Vinho Verde. It's perfumed, fresh and crisp while showing a full texture. Drink starting in late 2014.Torre de Menagem Escolha8812Vinho VerdeRoger Voss@vossrogerQuintas de Melgaço 2013 Torre de Menagem Escolha White (Vinho Verde)Portuguese WhiteQuintas de Melgaço
3138231381AustriaRipeness and a rich, phenolic edge dominate. Savory notes of lovage and an earthy undertone would make this a great companion for ripe, soft cheeses.88NiederösterreichAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoStadlmann 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich)Grüner VeltlinerStadlmann
3138331382AustriaGreen pear peel mixed with ripe but tart yellow apples—think Cox Orange Pippin—comes across with a disarming purity. Spritz enlivens the slender, light body and makes for perfect refreshment.Temento88SüdsteiermarkAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoTement 2013 Temento White (Südsteiermark)White BlendTement
3138431383PortugalAlready delicious, this wine is piled high with blackberry fruits and sweet tannins that are supported by spicy wood flavors. It's soft and velvet in texture, very ready to drink now.Terra D'Alter8813AlentejanoRoger Voss@vossrogerTerras de Alter 2012 Terra D'Alter Red (Alentejano)Touriga Nacional BlendTerras de Alter
3138531384USA taste of candied grapefruit jumps out first from this wine, which is altogether clean and crisp. It's also generous in bigger flavors of fig and vanilla. More creamy and fruity than herbal or savory, it's right for seafood or spicy stuff.Rooster Vineyard8817CaliforniaLake CountyVirginie Boone@vbooneThe Girls in the Vineyard 2012 Rooster Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County)Sauvignon BlancThe Girls in the Vineyard
3138631385USThe largest Chardonnay parcel in the Thomas Fogarty estate portfolio at slightly more than four acres, this slice still only amounts to four barrels of wine. The 2011 starts with a candied, chalky smell, reminiscent of white Smarties, and the flavors lean toward cooked stone fruit, such as caramelized pluot, and charred daffodil.Langley Hill Vineyard Estate8860CaliforniaSanta Cruz MountainsCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannThomas Fogarty 2011 Langley Hill Vineyard Estate Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains)ChardonnayThomas Fogarty
3138731386PortugalAlthough the wine is closed at the moment, showing only its tannic side, it has a good promise from the weight of fruit that's at the back. Ripe and juicy, it should age well. Drink from 2017.Terras de Monforte888AlentejoRoger Voss@vossrogerHerdade do Perdigão 2009 Terras de Monforte Red (Alentejo)Portuguese RedHerdade do Perdigão
3138831387FranceOne of the leading producers in the small appellation of Reuilly, Jean-Michel Sorbe reveals the typically soft, rounded character of this gentle wine. It has acidity, of course, along with citrus, but it remains calm, attractive and immediately drinkable.88Loire ValleyReuillyRoger Voss@vossrogerJean-Michel Sorbe 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Reuilly)Sauvignon BlancJean-Michel Sorbe
3138931388ItalyIncrocio Manzoni results from a crossing between Riesling and Pinot blanc grapes. Delicate aromas recall white flowers and stone fruit. The elegant palate offers yellow apple, apricot and a hint of pineapple alongside bright acidity.L'altro Manzoni Maso Franch8825Northeastern ItalyVigneti delle DolomitiKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeLa Vis 2011 L'altro Manzoni Maso Franch Incrocio Manzoni (Vigneti delle Dolomiti)Incrocio ManzoniLa Vis
3139031389PortugalBehind the dark tannins, a huge mouthful of fruit is waiting to come out. The wine has weight, showing layers of wood aging and dark tannins. It's concentrated and needs to age. Drink from 2017.Quinta da Costa8832DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerLavradores de Feitoria 2010 Quinta da Costa Red (Douro)Portuguese RedLavradores de Feitoria
3139131390PortugalWith soft acidity, this is already an attractive, warmly white wine. Orange and tangy citrus flavors are balanced by a light touch of wood aging that gives spice. It needs a few more months, so drink from the end of 2014.Três Bagos Branco8815DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerLavradores de Feitoria 2012 Três Bagos Branco White (Douro)Portuguese WhiteLavradores de Feitoria
3139231391AustriaAn almost tropical hint of passion fruit and mango enters the lemony pepper realms of Grüner: an intriguing variation on this soft, pleasing white.8810NiederösterreichAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoLenz Moser 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich)Grüner VeltlinerLenz Moser
3139331392USThis single-vineyard Pinot Gris is smooth as silk, loaded with fresh, well-defined flavors of melon. A touch of spring herb is delicately applied. Not a big, fruity wine, but delicious in a rather quiet way.Logsdon Ridge Vineyard Rudolfo8818OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Lumos 2013 Logsdon Ridge Vineyard Rudolfo Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley)Pinot GrisLumos
3139431393PortugalThe wine is firm and solid while also having a strongly juicy character, with weight, rich blackberry fruits and a spicy element. It's full-bodied, adding a touch of pepper to the mix.Torre de Coimbra Reserva88BairradaRoger Voss@vossrogerLusovini 2010 Torre de Coimbra Reserva Red (Bairrada)Portuguese RedLusovini
3139531394USRichly effusive, it's marked by blue and black berry fruit that's almost jammy, swathed in chocolaty toffee. The wine shows off Macchia's prowess with Lodi fruit, its acidity pert throughout, especially into the finish, which also features plenty of toasty oak.Rebellious8824CaliforniaLodiCentral ValleyVirginie Boone@vbooneMacchia 2011 Rebellious Petite Sirah (Lodi)Petite SirahMacchia
3139631395PortugalA perfumed, spicy wine full of dark fruits, wood-aging flavors and rich tannins. It is structured, dense and dry at the core. The wine needs time to bring out the fruit and fill out the structure. Drink from 2017.Ribeiro Santo88DãoRoger Voss@vossrogerMagnum Vinhos 2011 Ribeiro Santo Touriga Nacional (Dão)Touriga NacionalMagnum Vinhos
3139731396USGiven its high-octane aroma of barrel and petrol, this Pinot is defined by its need to settle down, more disheveled teenager than the groomed adult it surely will become. The bones are there, dark berry fruit and lurking, earthy spice. There's a developing softness to the texture, the aromas still being worked out.Estate Vineyard8840CaliforniaMendocino CountyVirginie Boone@vbooneMasút 2012 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mendocino County)Pinot NoirMasút
3139831397USSlightly sweet, this light, smooth and juicy wine has mild aromatics of citrus fruit and floral notes, and pretty melon and pippin apple flavors.Estate Grown Made With Organically Grown Grapes8816CaliforniaPotter ValleyJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsMcFadden 2013 Estate Grown Made With Organically Grown Grapes Riesling (Potter Valley)RieslingMcFadden
3139931398ItalyThis structured rosato from northern Italy is loaded with bright red cherry, raspberry, black pepper and graphite sensations. The round, juicy palate is balanced by lively acidity that gives a refreshing finish.Rosé88Northeastern ItalyAlto AdigeKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeNals Margreid 2013 Rosé Lagrein (Alto Adige)LagreinNals Margreid
3140031399PortugalSolid and firm, it has powerful tannins and no sense yet of aging. The concentration is palpable, offering impressive weight while also bringing out ripe berry fruits. It needs until 2017–2018 to soften.Grande Reserva8860DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerBarão de Vilar 2008 Grande Reserva Red (Douro)Portuguese RedBarão de Vilar
3140131400ChileThis Syrah-led blend (with Carignan) hails from old vineyards in Maule. Leather, rubber, compost and earthy cherry aromas set up a palate with laser-beam acidity and shearing crispness. Flavors of red fruits, spice and herbal notes finish oaky and a bit raw, but exceedingly fresh. Drink through 2018.Parinacota Limited Edition8830Maule ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachBodega Volcanes de Chile 2010 Parinacota Limited Edition Red (Maule Valley)Red BlendBodega Volcanes de Chile
3140231401USNicely differentiated from the companion Stewart bottling, this Athena is a sharp and spicy affair, with tight, tart cranberry and raspberry fruit. Native yeast fermentation and extended sur-lie aging add some snap to the finish. Try after 2016 for optimum enjoyment.Athena8835OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Boedecker Cellars 2011 Athena Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirBoedecker Cellars
3140331402USA perennial knockout, this vintage delivers as always, combining 7% Petite Sirah, Mourvèdre and Syrah from the estate into the mix. Altogether, it opens in a field of wildflowers aromatic before unfurling tart acidity to keep freshly layered soft, supple tannin and red cherry and berry. Sprinklings of white pepper and clove factor in.Rocky Knoll Estate Grown9658CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneLimerick Lane 2014 Rocky Knoll Estate Grown Zinfandel (Russian River Valley)ZinfandelLimerick Lane
3140431403GermanySilken, honeyed layers of sweet-tart peach and mango undulate from the core of this stunning beerenauslese. Its unctuous sweetness is head-spinning, but vibrant lemon-lime acidity and dusty, earthy complexities keep it grounded. It's delicious already but sure to improve through 2050 and beyond.Abtsberg Beerenauslese Grosse Lage96388MoselAnna Lee C. IijimaMaximin Grünhäuser 2015 Abtsberg Beerenauslese Grosse Lage Riesling (Mosel)RieslingMaximin Grünhäuser
3140531404USThis bottling from a winery that uses both the highest of technology and most old school of techniques is incredibly subtle at first, but then come waves of mace, mulberry, forest floor and dried shiitake aromas. The palate starts with sharper herbs and spice, from thyme to nutmeg and allspice, and then the purple flower flavors explode like a bouquet in the mouth. Elderflower touches fly into the finish.Domaine Du Docteur Rodgers96102CaliforniaSanta Cruz MountainsCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannClos de la Tech 2012 Domaine Du Docteur Rodgers Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains)Pinot NoirClos de la Tech
3140631405GermanyLuminous peach and tangerine flavors take center stage in this gorgeously composed sweet Riesling. Lip-smacking honey and candied orange peel flavors are offset by a dazzling streak of citrusy acidity. Despite all the sweetness, the finish is pristinely mineral. It's stunning already but should only improve through 2050.Kiedrich Gräfenberg Beerenauslese96365RheingauAnna Lee C. IijimaRobert Weil 2015 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Beerenauslese Riesling (Rheingau)RieslingRobert Weil
3140731406FranceThis limited release Champagne has been aged on its lees in Gosset's cellars for a minimum of 15 years. While it does have some maturity and toasty character, its freshness is extraordinary. The crisp fruit is still there, evoking ripe apples with an almond- and spice-laced edge. It's ready to drink.Cuvée 15 Brut96135ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerGosset NV Cuvée 15 Brut (Champagne)Champagne BlendGosset
3140831407USDark gold in color, this is a memorably luxurious and vivacious wine, tangy in grapefruit, burnt orange and cardamom. Layered and complex, it evolves as it opens to a lingering tease of butterscotch topped in nutmeg. It is an outstanding vision of an outstanding site, a wine for the ages.Ritchie Vineyard9660CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneGary Farrell 2014 Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)ChardonnayGary Farrell
3140931408FranceThis small property with its own château lies within the lower portion of Vaudésir but is considered a Grand Cru in its own right. The wine—the flagship of the cooperative—is opulent, showing strong wood aging flavors that will soften with time. Ripe and generous with yellow fruit flavor, it also boasts a tight mineral acidity and crispness, making it a good candidate for cellaring. Drink from 2021.Château Grenouilles Grand Cru9589BurgundyChablisRoger Voss@vossrogerLa Chablisienne 2014 Château Grenouilles Grand Cru (Chablis)ChardonnayLa Chablisienne
3141031409GermanyThere's a pinpoint-like delicacy to this dazzling auslese. Its pristine pineapple and yellow cherry flavors collapse like silk on the palate, electrified with acidity and a heady floral flair. Its fruit expression is pure and transparent, lingering endlessly on the finish. Beautiful already but should improve through 2040.Abtsberg Auslese 24 Grosse Lage9595MoselAnna Lee C. IijimaMaximin Grünhäuser 2015 Abtsberg Auslese 24 Grosse Lage Riesling (Mosel)RieslingMaximin Grünhäuser

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