Wine Reviews


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3219132190USThis is right up there with previous vintages of Krutz's Malbec, which have been among the best in California. It's certainly not a shy wine, showing Malbec's power to dazzle with its sheer volume. Offering endless waves of blackberry and black pepper, with thick tannins and vibrant acidity, this is the perfect wine to drink now with charbroiled beef.Krupp Vineyard9360CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaKrutz 2009 Krupp Vineyard Malbec (Napa Valley)MalbecKrutz
3219232191USThis shows the power and purity of the winery's coastal Pastorale and Quarter Moon vineyards, in this cool vintage that allowed for long hang time. Although some coastal Pinots were plagued by rot, this one was not, resulting in a wine with delicious raspberry and cherry notes, accented by new French oak. It's very fine, complex and enjoyable now.Freestone Vineyards Estate Grown9355CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaJoseph Phelps 2010 Freestone Vineyards Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)Pinot NoirJoseph Phelps
3219332192USThis is one of the best Tempranillo-based wines in California history. The other varieties blended in are Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Bone dry and tannic, though a little warm in alcohol, it shows its mountain origins—from the southeast corner of the Vacas—with its immaculate core of blackberry and cassis. Compellingly delicious now and over the next 5–6 years.The Doctor9370CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaKrupp Brothers 2009 The Doctor Red (Napa Valley)Red BlendKrupp Brothers
3219432193USThis is made from the winery's estate vineyard, but from lots not included in the main blend, which costs twice as much. You'll find plenty of tannins in this darkly colored, impressively concentrated 100% Cabernet. It's fresh, soft and juicy in blackberry and cherry jam flavors, with a rich earthiness. Just delightful for drinking over the next four years, and a great value.Counterpoint9330CaliforniaSonoma MountainSonomaLaurel Glen 2009 Counterpoint Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Mountain)Cabernet SauvignonLaurel Glen
3219532194USYou'll love the brightness and liveliness of this wonderfully drinkable Cabernet. Sometimes these rich wines can be heavy, but this one combines tartness with its elaborate blackberry jam, anise and cedar wood flavors, which makes it sing. Perfect now with a great steak, and should age well for up to eight years.9347CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaLong Meadow Ranch 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonLong Meadow Ranch
3219632195FranceA structured, crisp and mineral-driven wine, this merely hints at raspberry flavors but is dedicated to a steely character. That suggests youth, and the wine, with its tense texture, could well age over several more years. For now, this is an impressive wine that demands pairing with food.Brut Rosé9372ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerLouis Roederer 2007 Brut Rosé (Champagne)Champagne BlendLouis Roederer
3219732196USThis exudes classic Chardonnay richness. Pure and heady, it explodes with tropical fruit and orange essences, with buttered toast and vanilla flavors from oak barrels and lees contact. Zesty Russian River acidity kicks in to provide perfect balance. The creaminess is delicious, suggesting shellfish in a buttery sauce.Durell Vineyards9374CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaRam's Gate 2010 Durell Vineyards Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast)ChardonnayRam's Gate
3219832197ItalyThis opens with inky, dark concentration and offers many of the beautiful aromas associated with the Cabernet family of grapes: Dark berry, prune, dried spice and chocolate. It delivers impressive intensity and persistency, with well-formed tannins and mocha softness on the finish.Il Pino di Biserno9380TuscanyToscanaTenuta di Biserno 2008 Il Pino di Biserno Red (Toscana)Red BlendTenuta di Biserno
3219932198ItalySangiovese, Syrah and Merlot are blended to form a rich and supple red, with black cherry, chocolate, cinnamon and blackberry nuances. The mouthfeel is characterized by richness, softness and a touch of bright crispness.9375TuscanyColline LucchesiTenuta di Valgiano 2009 Red (Colline Lucchesi)Red BlendTenuta di Valgiano
3220032199AustriaA brooding wine, this shows all the aging potential of Blaufränkisch. Using grapes sourced from the Kirschgarten Vineyard, this has tar and violet aromas, plus firm, dry tannins and a dense yet juicy black-fruit character. It could still age over 4–5 years. Glass stopper.Joiser Kirschgarten9370BurgenlandRoger Voss@vossrogerUmathum 2008 Joiser Kirschgarten Blaufränkisch (Burgenland)BlaufränkischUmathum
3220132200USOnce again, this cuvée blends grapes drawn equally from the Ciel du Cheval and Ranch at the End of the Road vineyards on Red Mountain. Imposing minerality underscores a tight, raspberry-flavored wine that seems like it's soaked in liquid rock. A teasing barrel note adds threads of coffee liqueur and dark chocolate to the finish.La Côte Rousse9355WashingtonRed MountainColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Betz Family 2010 La Côte Rousse Syrah (Red Mountain)SyrahBetz Family
3220232201ItalyThis opens with elegant and finely tuned aromas of wild berry, dried ginger, smoked bacon and dried herb. It is still toasty and young at this point and will benefit from another 5–10 years of cellar aging. The tannins are smooth and polished.Vigna La Casa9394TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoCaparzo 2006 Vigna La Casa (Brunello di Montalcino)Sangiovese GrossoCaparzo
3220332202USThe Grand Ciel Vineyard seems to be coming into maturity, and this shows impressive depth and complexity. Infused with flavors of rock and light herb,with hints of stem, anise, coffee and cocoa, it nonetheless remains firmly anchored in ripe black cherry and cassis. This could easily be cellared for 10–15 years.Grand Ciel93140WashingtonRed MountainColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine DeLille 2008 Grand Ciel Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain)Cabernet SauvignonDeLille
3220432203USBroad and earthy, with a dash of funk and a peppery lift, this grips the tongue with authority and power. It's poised and tense, as if balanced on the edge of a precipice, with the fruit, herb, roasted earth and coffee notes all tumbling around in glorious profusion.Cougar Hills9345WashingtonWalla Walla Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine K Vintners 2009 Cougar Hills Syrah (Walla Walla Valley (WA))SyrahK Vintners
3220532204USFrom the winery's estate vineyard, on the eastern side of the Oakville appellation, this Cab is incredibly lush and delicious. It dazzles with rich blackberry, cherry pie, currant and cassis liqueur flavors, perfectly accented by sweet, smoky oak. It's soft in tannins, yet ageworthy. Drink now–2020.Reserve93125CaliforniaOakvilleNapaGroth 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville)Cabernet SauvignonGroth
3220632205USThis opens with beautiful dark fruit that's thick and voluptuous, tasting of black cherry and cassis, with excellent depth and intensity. It's sleek and supple, yet at the same time deep and polished, with impressive minerality and a note of granite-like rock.Pheasant Vineyard9335WashingtonWahluke SlopeColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine K Vintners 2009 Pheasant Vineyard Syrah (Wahluke Slope)SyrahK Vintners
3220732206USA single-vineyard wine (though not labeled as such), this was barrel-fermented in neutral French oak and bottled after about four months. Honey and toast are delicate nuances; the minerality and pure expressions of lime and kiwi fruit are at the core. This has excellent grip and medium-term aging potential.9330WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine K Vintners 2011 Viognier (Columbia Valley (WA))ViognierK Vintners
3220832207USThis is rich and dense in blackberry and cherry jam, currant, mocha, anise and smoky cedar flavors. The mountain tannins are strong but refined, and the finish is long and spicy. It's a Bordeaux blend based on Cabernet Sauvignon, but be forewarned: It's high in alcohol.Stagecoach Vineyard Synchrony9390CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaKrupp Brothers 2009 Stagecoach Vineyard Synchrony Red (Napa Valley)Bordeaux-style Red BlendKrupp Brothers
3220932208USWoodward Canyon makes one of Washington's most interesting Chardonnays, blending fruit from the old vines at Celilo in the Columbia Gorge, with estate-grown grapes from the western end of the Walla Walla Valley. In this cooler vintage, the wine remains beautifully proportionate, round and fruity, with pretty apple, pear and peach highlights. There is a light dusting of spice, and a lick of caramel on the finish.9344WashingtonWashingtonWashington OtherPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Woodward Canyon 2011 Chardonnay (Washington)ChardonnayWoodward Canyon
3221032209USSuddenly Washington vintners are awash in Chardonnay, many value priced such as this new one from Airfield Estates' Lone Birch project. Clean and simple, it's got moderately ripe apple flavors and no faux oak.8512WashingtonYakima ValleyColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Lone Birch 2012 Chardonnay (Yakima Valley)ChardonnayLone Birch
3221132210FranceVery jammy in character, this is a soft, ripe wine. It seems almost too ripe, a wine that is rounded without great texture. It will be ready to drink by the end of the year.Clos des Gatsulards8537BurgundySantenayRoger Voss@vossrogerLouis Jadot 2011 Clos des Gatsulards (Santenay)Pinot NoirLouis Jadot
3221232211USRipe peach and floral aromas waft from this sprightly off-dry Riesling. A hint of pressed apple lends a savory feel to the mid palate, but it finishes briskly with a squirt of lemon and lime.Semi-Dry8518New YorkFinger LakesFinger LakesAnna Lee C. IijimaMcGregor 2012 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes)RieslingMcGregor
3221332212USSharp and a bit disjointed, this is an uneasy mix of sweet strawberry fruit and stemmy tannins. The Tempranillo is blended with 25% Cabernet Franc.8533WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Cave B 2011 Tempranillo (Columbia Valley (WA))TempranilloCave B
3221432213USThe oak (20% new French) seems far out front here with vanilla overpowering the notes of fig. It drinks dry with a creamy feel and abundant vanilla flavors.8525WashingtonAncient LakesColumbia ValleySean P. Sullivan@wawinereportCave B 2012 Sémillon (Ancient Lakes)SémillonCave B
3221532214ItalyThis wine opens with red berry, spice and spearmint aromas. The dense palate is surprisingly sweet, with sugary black plum alongside drying, rough, wood tannins.8518Southern ItalyBeneventanoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeVesevo 2010 Aglianico (Beneventano)AglianicoVesevo
3221632215FranceLightly tannic, this wine is about red cherry and blueberry fruits, along with hints of banana. Fresh and fruity, it offers a balance of acidity and tannins at the end. Drink now.Grande QV8515BurgundyCoteaux BourguignonsRoger Voss@vossrogerVignerons de Bel Air 2013 Grande QV (Coteaux Bourguignons)GamayVignerons de Bel Air
3221732216USThe nose on this dry Gewürztraminer is a tad savory with hints of smoke and earth. By contrast, the palate is lavish with pink grapefruit and lychee flavors and a bright, fresh tangerine acidity. Nicely balanced in body and alcohol.Dry8513New YorkFinger LakesFinger LakesAnna Lee C. IijimaWagner 2012 Dry Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes)GewürztraminerWagner
3221832217ItalyThis opens with earthy aromas of tilled soil, underbrush, wet leaves, barnyard and mature black fruit. The muddled palate shows both sweet and bitter sensations of overripe blackberry, tart candied cherry, orange peel, vanilla, espresso and unsweetened cocoa, as well as astringent wood tannins. Panebianco, Vinity.Siclys8530Sicily & SardiniaSiciliaKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeArmosa 2008 Siclys Nero d'Avola (Sicilia)Nero d'AvolaArmosa
3221932218GreeceA spicy, floral nose leads this fresh white from Mantinia. Balanced with fruity pear and lemon flavors, it's a good everyday white with a glamorous edge.Dry8514MantiniaSusan Kostrzewa@suskostrzewaCavino 2012 Dry Moschofilero (Mantinia)MoschofileroCavino
3222032219USThis soft red wine discloses pomegranate fruit and a liberal amount of Mediterranean herbs. It's light and easy-sipping, and should be consumed while young.Squall Line8532WashingtonRed MountainColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Convergence Zone 2011 Squall Line Red (Red Mountain)Red BlendConvergence Zone

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