Wine Reviews

3246132460FranceA structured wine from the Chadronnier family, it is full of tannins and also full of sweeping black-fruit flavors. It is perfumed, rich and concentrated. Don't drink until at least 2020 to get the full generosity of the wine.9050BordeauxFrancs Côtes de BordeauxRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Marsau 2014 Francs Côtes de BordeauxMerlotChâteau Marsau
3246232461FranceThis is a perfumed wine, full of rich fruit and spice. The acidity is present to give the wine a lift. It will develop well, becoming smooth and rich over the next two years. Drink from 2018.9020BordeauxBordeaux SupérieurRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Mirambeau Papin 2014 Bordeaux SupérieurBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Mirambeau Papin
3246332462USYoung and visibly spritzy, this appealing wine bursts forth with scents of lemon tea and orange blossoms, followed by flavors of orange soda, candied pineapple and stone fruits. It's round and fruity, definitely sweet, but kept lively with plenty of acid and that tongue-tickling spritz.Ridgecrest Vineyards Sext9024OregonRibbon RidgeWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Chehalem 2015 Ridgecrest Vineyards Sext Riesling (Ribbon Ridge)RieslingChehalem
3246432463SpainA dense, baked, raisiny nose is ultra ripe but also a bit flabby and damp-smelling. A big, grabby mouth-filler, this offers baked, oaky flavors of blackberry, fig and chocolate, finishing with lingering chocolate and prune. Drink this chunky, superripe Priorat sooner rather than later.Selecció9060CataloniaPrioratMichael Schachner@wineschachClos Berenguer del Molar 2012 Selecció Red (Priorat)Red BlendClos Berenguer del Molar
3246532464ItalyMade with the Durello grape, refermented in the bottle and left on its lees, this lightly frothy wine has delicate scents of fragrant wild flower, citrus and a whiff of crushed stone. The vibrant palate doles out lime, grapefruit, pear and energizing mineral alongside bright acidity. It finishes crisp and refreshing. The sediment at the bottom of the bottle adds even more flavor to the last glass.Purocaso sui Lieviti9020VenetoVenetoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeCorte Moschina NV Purocaso sui Lieviti Durella (Veneto)DurellaCorte Moschina
3246632465AustriaFragrant notes of candied pear and lifted hints of orange blossom are tempered by exuberant lemon freshness. The palate is of tender, enveloping but not overbearing sweetness, carrying aloft an exquisite, honeyed tableau of pear and quince, mirabelle plum and apricot, balanced by pure lemon freshness. The finish is soft, moreish and mellow.Spätlese Cuvée9019BurgenlandAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoGunter Triebaumer 2015 Spätlese Cuvée White (Burgenland)White BlendGunter Triebaumer
3246732466USFrom one of the young appellation's newer vineyards comes this blend of 74% Roussanne and 26% Viognier. Made in a slightly reductive style, it has sour aromas of orange rind, citrus pith and a touch of quinine. Lime skins and yogurt elements show on the palate, which is lifted by jasmine flowers and dried nectarine.9060CaliforniaBallard CanyonCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannKimsey 2013 White (Ballard Canyon)Rhône-style White BlendKimsey
3246832467USFrom a tremendous vineyard location known for its meticulous farming, this wine was made in small quantities. It exemplifies balance, pitting creamy, voluptuous texture against crisp apple and guava, the acidity never ceding entirely to the oak.Pratt Vineyard9068CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneLa Pitchoune 2013 Pratt Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)ChardonnayLa Pitchoune
3246932468ItalyA blend of Nebbiolo, Vespolina and Croatina, this opens with aromas of aromatic herb, wild berry, menthol and a floral note. The firm, vibrant palate offers tar, sour cherry, licorice and white pepper alongside youthfully austere, fine-grained tannins. This needs time to soften up and fully develop. Drink 2019–2027.9055PiedmontBramaterraKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeLe Pianelle 2012 BramaterraRed BlendLe Pianelle
3247032469ItalyAromas of toast, oak, hazelnut and a whiff of citrus zest slowly come together on this mature sparkler. The concentrated palate is more about complexity than primary fruit, offering bread crust, toasted almond, fennel, yellow apple skin and a hint of lemon zest alongside an elegant perlage.Madame Martis Brut Metodo Classico Riserva90170Northeastern ItalyTrentoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeMaso Martis 2006 Madame Martis Brut Metodo Classico Riserva Sparkling (Trento)Sparkling BlendMaso Martis
3247132470FranceEverything here is just hinted at: a touch of tropical fruit on the nose, a faint note of nougat on the palate and a spritz of lemon over the biscuity backdrop. There is structure, dryness and backbone, all held in a tight package that has a long-echoing aftertaste.Emotion Brut9029AlsaceCrémant d'AlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Charles Baur NV Emotion Brut Sparkling (Crémant d'Alsace)Sparkling BlendDomaine Charles Baur
3247232471FranceSeductively rich notes of peach and yellow plum entice the nose. They also bathe the palate in a very luscious light, counteracted by fresh mousse and balancing, taut freshness. This is a lovely synthesis of rich fruit and dry restraint, fizzing away with pleasure. The finish is long, dry and lemony.Brut9020AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Fernand Engel NV Brut Chardonnay (Alsace)ChardonnayDomaine Fernand Engel
3247332472FranceAppetizing notes of apple and yellow plum reach the nose. The palate is fizzing with freshness and redolent of fresh red-apple peel with overtones of honey. The mousse is creamy and accentuates the dry refreshing finish.Tradition Brut9018AlsaceCrémant d'AlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Fernand Engel NV Tradition Brut Sparkling (Crémant d'Alsace)Sparkling BlendDomaine Fernand Engel
3247432473FranceGreen citrus is aligned with green apple on the nose. The zesty, crisp and utterly refreshing notes fill the palate while the soft mousse fizzes away, underlining the balanced, dry freshness even more. The body is light and the green apple and citrus notes, cushioned by lovely biscuit notes, last all the way to an echoing, dry finish.Cuvée Prestige Brut9025AlsaceCrémant d'AlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDopff & Irion NV Cuvée Prestige Brut Sparkling (Crémant d'Alsace)Sparkling BlendDopff & Irion
3247532474GermanyPretty blossom and apricot aromas bolster ripe, rich flavors of honey tangerine and yellow peach in this forward, fruity wine. There's no pretense here: It's a hedonistic guzzler of a wine, but its tangy salt-and-lime finish makes it hard to resist another glass. Drink while young.Blitz9011MoselAnna Lee C. IijimaDr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2015 Blitz Riesling (Mosel)RieslingDr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler
3247632475USNamed for the proprietor's daughter, Taylor's is stainless-steel fermented and meant to exude juicy waves of pear, apple and lemon, a fully immersive expression of fruit and minerality. Well balanced, it shows a tease of peach fuzz and the crispness of never having met a swath of oak.Taylor's Vineyard Musque Clone9028CaliforniaDry Creek ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneDry Creek Vineyard 2014 Taylor's Vineyard Musque Clone Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley)Sauvignon BlancDry Creek Vineyard
3247732476ItalyLovely floral aromas of white spring flower meld together with scents of an orchard in bloom and a whiff of bread crust. The creamy palate doles out apple, yellow peach, toasted nut and a hint of honey alongside a persistent perlage.Dublesse Dosaggio Zero Metodo Classico9057Italy OtherVino SpumanteKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeDubl NV Dublesse Dosaggio Zero Metodo Classico Greco (Vino Spumante)GrecoDubl
3247832477USThis vineyard-designate opens in bombastic amounts of Asian spice and wild strawberry, making for a whirlwind of flavor and acidity on the palate. Black tea and rose garden dance around highlights of orange and cranberry, the wine tart in mineralogy, as well as full of length and density.Thomas Road Vineyard Dutton Ranch9056CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneDutton Estate 2014 Thomas Road Vineyard Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirDutton Estate
3247932478USThis mix of 68% Syrah, 20% Grenache and 12% Petite Sirah offers blackberry jam, lavender and cracked pepper on the nose. Tart berries show on the sip, made more serious with a tarry structure and lifted by light purple flowers and an incense element that carries through the finish.Revelation Rodney's Vineyard9044CaliforniaSanta Barbara CountyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannEpiphany 2013 Revelation Rodney's Vineyard Red (Santa Barbara County)Rhône-style Red BlendEpiphany
3248032479USTry this bold and concentrated wine for a change of pace. Enormous aromas of fully ripe plums and cherries mix with savory, herbal accents. The flavors are rich and mouthfilling, dripping with prune, boysenberry and anise.9025CaliforniaLivermore ValleyCentral CoastJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsFenestra 2011 Touriga Nacional (Livermore Valley)Touriga NacionalFenestra
3248132480ItalyCreamy and crisp, this slowly reveals delicate scents of small red berry and Alpine herb. The bright polished palate offers strawberry, apple, nectarine and a hint of bread crust alongside fresh acidity and an elegant mousse. A mineral note backs up the finish.Perlé Rosé Metodo Classico9060Northeastern ItalyTrentoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeFerrari 2009 Perlé Rosé Metodo Classico Sparkling (Trento)Sparkling BlendFerrari
3248232481GermanyStone and steel define this deeply mineral, dry Riesling. It's elegantly fruity as well though, with zesty lime, lemon and grapefruit flavors brightening the palate. Silky and languorous, it finishes on a lingering honeycomb note.Schiefer Trocken9017MoselAnna Lee C. IijimaFriedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium 2015 Schiefer Trocken Riesling (Mosel)RieslingFriedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium
3248332482ItalyMade with 70% Nebbiolo and 30% Vespolina, this vibrant red offers enticing, ethereal scents of perfumed berry, fragrant blue flower, aromatic herb and a whiff of cedar. The mid-weight, luminous palate delivers crushed red cherry, raspberry, cinnamon and white pepper. Racy acidity lifts the finish while polished tannins provides support.Barton9030PiedmontFaraKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeGilberto Boniperti 2012 Barton (Fara)NebbioloGilberto Boniperti
3248432483USThough lightly colored, this is a powerful Pinot Noir from the estate vineyard of Norman Beko. He cold-soaks the fruit and ferments with native yeasts to deliver aromas of raspberry, pine and wet slate. The flavors range from pomegranate to violet to red rose to a fruit punch that lingers a long time thanks to a nice acidic lift.Elizabeth's Vista Estate9248CaliforniaSanta Maria ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannCottonwood Canyon 2010 Elizabeth's Vista Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley)Pinot NoirCottonwood Canyon
3248532484USThis Pinot Noir-Syrah blend opens up with aromas of cherry compote, red currant, pencil shavings and roasted beets. It's extremely silky on the palate, with purple fruit, even blueberries present. The alcohol is not out of balance, thanks to a touch of bitterness.Bistro9224CaliforniaSanta Maria ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannCottonwood Canyon 2012 Bistro Red (Santa Maria Valley)Red BlendCottonwood Canyon
3248632485FranceTensely mineral, this is a tight, crisp wine. The palate ranges from pink grapefruit to a more steely, stony texture. The acidity shooting through the wine is well in balance with the fruits and structure. It could go through 2015 to be even better.9229Loire ValleySancerreRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine de la Villaudière 2012 SancerreSauvignon BlancDomaine de la Villaudière
3248732486FranceVery closed and tight, this is still a young wine. Its fruitiness, with citrus and pear flavors, is just beginning to develop into something that's rich and full-bodied. With its steely structure and taught acidity, it shouldn't be drunk before 2016.Silex Cuvée Maxime9246Loire ValleySancerreRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Vincent Delaporte 2013 Silex Cuvée Maxime (Sancerre)Sauvignon BlancDomaine Vincent Delaporte
3248832487USThe Hitching Post team of Frank Ostini and Gray Hartley hit a home run on this Highliner, with a nose that features fried shiitake mushrooms, violet and sizzling balsamic vinegar. It boasts an elegant mouthfeel, with very round and widely expressive fruit, characterized by orange peel, olallieberry and more violet.Hitching Post Highliner9244CaliforniaSanta Barbara CountyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannHartley-Ostini 2012 Hitching Post Highliner Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County)Pinot NoirHartley-Ostini
3248932488FranceThis is a deeply rich and concentrated expression of steely Sauvignon Blanc. The wine is ripe, full in the mouth with yellow fruits vying with citrus and capped by the more tense texture. It could still age, so wait until 2015.Vieilles Vignes92Loire ValleySancerreRoger Voss@vossrogerRoger et Didier Raimbault 2012 Vieilles Vignes (Sancerre)Sauvignon BlancRoger et Didier Raimbault
3249032489USThis Pinot is not hiding behind anything. It has lots of natural-tasting fruit aromas and flavors without overt oak. Flavors recall cherry, berry and rhubarb; the wine tastes firm and moderately tannic, and has medium to full body. Beautifully balanced, it should improve through 2018.Cerise Vineyard9254CaliforniaAnderson ValleyJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsSaintsbury 2011 Cerise Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley)Pinot NoirSaintsbury

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