Wine Reviews


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3291132910FranceA light, delicate wine, with spice and pear flavors, some quince, green plums. To balance this, there is a streak of minerality, which cuts through the fruits.Les Chenevottes Premier Cru89BurgundyChassagne-MontrachetRoger Voss@vossrogerLouis Latour 2006 Les Chenevottes Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet)ChardonnayLouis Latour
3291232911SpainRipe and on the cusp of being classified as “raisiny,” but in the final analysis this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Tempranillo from one of the Penedès' best cava producers has plenty of appeal. Look for sweet, friendly plum, cassis and prune flavors sitting on a saturated, cuddly palate. Drink soon to capture the wine's livelier qualities; further aging will not help it.MM Reserva Privada8914CataloniaPenedèsMichael Schachner@wineschachMas de Monistrol 2004 MM Reserva Privada Red (Penedès)Red BlendMas de Monistrol
3291332912FranceThis rosé features a copper cast to its salmon-pink hue, with simultaneously complex and delicate aromas of crushed stone, citrus and brine. It's refreshingly zesty on the finish, brought alive by its salty minerality. Try it over the next year with grilled sardines or fried fish.Clos Bernarde Rosé de 1ère Taille8922ProvenceCôtes de ProvenceJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzMeulnart Père et Fils 2007 Clos Bernarde Rosé de 1ère Taille Rosé (Côtes de Provence)RoséMeulnart Père et Fils
3291432913USAltamura has tackled this extremely difficult wine for years. They've settled on a style that's soft and silky, with complex flavors of cherries, dates, plum skins, cocoa and pepper, and the weight of a Pinot Noir.8945CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaAltamura 2004 Sangiovese (Napa Valley)SangioveseAltamura
3291532914SpainHere's a highly recommended, everyday Ribera del Duero wine that starts with a full, round nose of charcoal, wild berry patch and oak. The oak, however, is tame (just three months of barrel time for this youngster) not forced, thus the cherry and raspberry fruit has vibrancy and balance.Roble8810Northern SpainRibera del DueroMichael Schachner@wineschachCondado de Oriza 2006 Roble (Ribera del Duero)TempranilloCondado de Oriza
3291632915SpainSupremely dense, with plum and berry jam, charred beef and molasses on the nose. The flavors go straight to blackberry, vanilla and chocolate, while the feel is full-bodied and probably a touch more tannic than desirable. Flush and even more tannic on the finish. Needs food and/or time in the cellar.Reserva8842Northern SpainRibera del DueroMichael Schachner@wineschachCostaval 2004 Reserva (Ribera del Duero)Tempranillo BlendCostaval
3291732916FranceMade from a 50-50 blend of Merlot and Marselan, this budget-priced entrée to the wines of Domaine de la Mordorée features lovely spice and leather shadings and a wonderfully silky, medium-weight texture in the mouth. Let's hope that the Delorme brothers can expand this production without compromising quality.Re:NAISSANCE Merlot-Marselan8813Rhône ValleyVin de Pays du GardJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzDomaine de la Mordorée 2007 Re:NAISSANCE Merlot-Marselan Rosé (Vin de Pays du Gard)RoséDomaine de la Mordorée
3291832917AustriaThere is ripe, soft fruit on this gently rounded wine. It has good depth of blackberry flavors, given an edge of minerality and concentrated fruit juice acidity. This could benefit from another 2 years' bottle aging. Screwcap.Umriss8824BurgenlandRoger Voss@vossrogerFeiler-Artinger 2006 Umriss Blaufränkisch (Burgenland)BlaufränkischFeiler-Artinger
3291932918AustriaPerfumed black fruits make this wine immediately attractive. On the palate, there is some richness, black plums and spice, along with sultanas. The acidity is kept in good check, but certainly adds piquancy and freshness to the aftertaste.Exclusiv88BurgenlandRoger Voss@vossrogerHans Moser 2005 Exclusiv Blaufränkisch (Burgenland)BlaufränkischHans Moser
3292032919USAbacela's dedication to Iberian varieties extends to this bright and peppery take on Albariño. Fresh, bracing and bone dry, it evokes the wines of Rías Baixas without losing its New World flesh and ripeness. Delicious already, it seems likely to improve for at least another two or three years.8823OregonSouthern OregonSouthern OregonPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Abacela 2007 Albariño (Southern Oregon)AlbariñoAbacela
3292132920USA really great mountain Zinfandel that shows luscious power and fruit at a fair price. The flavors of blackberries, cherries, currants, oranges, cloves and white pepper flood the palate and are just wonderful to experience. At this price, buy this Zin by the case.Pokerville8813CaliforniaAmador CountySierra FoothillsKarly 2005 Pokerville Zinfandel (Amador County)ZinfandelKarly
3292232921USFar better known for Chardonnay, the Sleepy Hollow vineyard also grows a small amount of Pinot Noir, which it sells to outside wineries. Twin Oaks has done a creditable job in crafting this drily interesting Pinot. Pale in color, it has a light, silky texture, but the flavors are full, suggesting raspberries, cherries, root beer and Asian spices.Sleepy Hollow Vineyard8849CaliforniaSanta Lucia HighlandsCentral CoastTwin Oaks 2006 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands)Pinot NoirTwin Oaks
3292332922USDespite what increasingly looks like a weak vintage, the pedigree of this vineyard shines through, making the best of a bad situation. The wine is nowhere near Longoria's wonderful 2004 and 2005, but shows a classic, silky mouthfeel and enough cherry, currant and clove flavors to satisfy. Drink now.Fe Ciega Vineyard8854CaliforniaSta. Rita HillsCentral CoastLongoria 2006 Fe Ciega Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills)Pinot NoirLongoria
3292432923SpainRipeness is evident in the wine's earthy nose, which blends prune, tire rubber and spice with good results. Serious and medium-bodied for Cabernet Sauvignon, with a cascade of red-berry flavors followed closely by a wave of dry oak and mocha. Shows some drying tannins and a peppery aftertaste. Drink now–2009.Crianza8822Northern SpainSomontanoMichael Schachner@wineschachOlvena 2004 Crianza Cabernet Sauvignon (Somontano)Cabernet SauvignonOlvena
3292532924SpainMaybe you've seen the cool yellow wrapper with a shapely woman that adorns this versatile Cava, but what's inside merits attention as well. After melon, banana and spice aromas the palate takes over with citrus and mango flavors. Distinguished due to its solid mouthfeel and good natural carbonation. Pour on its own, with food or in a mimosa.Lady of Spain Brut8814CataloniaCavaMichael Schachner@wineschachPaul Cheneau NV Lady of Spain Brut Sparkling (Cava)Sparkling BlendPaul Cheneau
3292632925USThe Cabernet Sauvignon comes from Howell Mountain. The Sangiovese is from Sonoma Valley, and the Cab Franc comes from Santa Ynez Valley. The resulting blend is rewarding. Although it's a light-bodied wine, the power of the cherry, raspberry, chocolate, anise, vanilla, clove and pepper flavors is considerable.Founder's Reserve8893CaliforniaCaliforniaCalifornia OtherSunstone 2005 Founder's Reserve Red (California)Red BlendSunstone
3292732926USThis is an unoaked Chardonnay, but it's so rich and forward in fruit, you may not even miss that smoky wood edge. Explodes with pineapple, peach, pear, apple, vanilla, honey and dusty spice flavors.Bedrock8824CaliforniaSanta Maria ValleyCentral CoastRiverbench 2006 Bedrock Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley)ChardonnayRiverbench
3292832927USTastes like a cross between a flowery, fruity Pinot Gris and a ripe, oaky Sauvignon Blanc. The flavors are enormously rich, spanning the gamut from pears and tangerines to green melons, white peaches, pineapples and honeysuckles. Best in its youthful exuberance.8830CaliforniaLake CountyShannon Ridge 2007 Roussanne (Lake County)RoussanneShannon Ridge
3292932928ItalyThis golden wine offers pretty fruit-based aromas of pineapple, pear, exotic fruit, banana and papaya reinforced by almond, yellow flower and minerals. This well-made Falanghina offers nice harmony and balance overall with fresh acidity on the close.88Southern ItalySannioMastroberardino 2006 Falanghina (Sannio)FalanghinaMastroberardino
3293032929AustraliaThis style of simply yummy, quaffable wine is what Australian Grenache is so capable of producing. Despite high alcohol (16.5%), it doesn't show heat on the palate, instead offering oodles of black cherries and some accents of baking spices. It's round, supple and easy to drink, with a touch of coffee on the finish. Imported by USA Wine West.Old Vine8821South AustraliaClare ValleyJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzFire Block 2004 Old Vine Grenache (Clare Valley)GrenacheFire Block
3293132930USThis savory Zin screams its varietal identity with a blast of pepper, nutmeg and clove that accompanies ripe blackberries, wild cherries, mulberries and smoky oak. The wine feels very soft and lightly elegant in the mouth, but fully dry. Perfect for restaurant wine lists.8813CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastFrancis Berwyn 2006 Zinfandel (Paso Robles)ZinfandelFrancis Berwyn
3293232931SpainValue and quality come with Faustino's 2007 rosé. Red licorice nibs, spice and cherry-raspberry aromas set it off in the right direction. The palate is wide, but good acidity keeps the nectarine and sweet grapefruit flavors on target. Dry, pithy and fleshy on the finish. It's the type of dry rosé that we want to drink.Faustino V Rosado8813Northern SpainRiojaMichael Schachner@wineschachBodegas Faustino 2007 Faustino V Rosado Rosé (Rioja)RoséBodegas Faustino
3293332932AustriaThe crispness is paramount here, maybe too much, meaning that the wine is very green. Of course, this is Riesling and is way too young now. For the moment, the fruit is taut and strung out, and it certainly needs 2–3 years.1000-Eimerberg Smaragd8829WachauRoger Voss@vossrogerGritsch Mauritiushof 2007 1000-Eimerberg Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)RieslingGritsch Mauritiushof
3293432933ItalyThe intensity of the wine's aromas is excellent and is bursting with honey, fruit and peach nuances. The wine is pristine and smooth in the mouth: highly recommended for those who want to pair it with seafood, clams or light pasta. A Marc de Grazia selection, various American importers.Devon8829Southern ItalyGreco di TufoAntonio Caggiano 2007 Devon (Greco di Tufo)GrecoAntonio Caggiano
3293532934SpainAfter an initial blast of raw oak this Ribera settles nicely to show appealing leather and berry aromas along with savory blackberry and molasses flavors. There's also ample spice, chocolate and toast to give it a dark personality. Nice for a young wine; it's flush, lush and quite dense.8817Northern SpainRibera del DueroMichael Schachner@wineschachArrocal 2006 Ribera del DueroTempranillo BlendArrocal
3293632935SpainCharred on top and showing roasted berry aromas underneath. This wine sizes up as a plump, round berry ball with low-to-medium acidity and soft tannins. It's just mildly herbal and rooty, with a soft finish. It flows smoothly and won't cause any eyebrows to be raised. Drink now.Conde de Valdemar Gran Reserva8835Northern SpainRiojaMichael Schachner@wineschachBodegas Valdemar 2001 Conde de Valdemar Gran Reserva (Rioja)Tempranillo BlendBodegas Valdemar
3293732936USDon't let the price tag fool you; this is a sophisticated blend with Merlot, Cab Franc, Malbec and Syrah comprising a quarter of the total. Aromatic and inviting, it brings spicy berry, red currant and Bing cherry fruit into play. Chewy tannins carry a hint of herb, and the presence of new oak is minimal at best. Just a hint of chocolate malt hits in the finish.8716WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley (WA))Cabernet SauvignonChateau Ste. Michelle
3293832937SpainContino gives its single-vineyard Graciano all that it can, and still the wine, despite its deep purple color, is tight as a drum. There's juniper and blueberry on the nose, and then tangy blackberry flavors with an herbal slant. As varietal Graciano goes, this is nicely done. But it's up to you to decide if varietal Graciano is worth $147 a pop.Single Vineyard87147Northern SpainRiojaMichael Schachner@wineschachContino 2005 Single Vineyard (Rioja)GracianoContino
3293932938USHere's a solid, smooth-drinking Cabernet Sauvignon. It's dry and crisply tannic, with ripe flavors of black currants, cherries, cedar and spices.8725CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaCourtney Benham 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonCourtney Benham
3294032939USHere's a powerfully fruity Napa red wine to drink tonight with roasts, cheeses, or just a nice burger. It's full-bodied, dry and rich in tannins, with black currant, anise, dark chocolate and smoky oak flavors. A blend of Bordeaux varieties and Syrah.Crane Ranch Vineyard Brodacious8736CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaCrane Brothers 2005 Crane Ranch Vineyard Brodacious Red (Napa Valley)Red BlendCrane Brothers

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