Wine Reviews


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3537135370USThis captivating wine, from vines dating back to the early 1970s, will reward your patience. It must be decanted if you want it to burst open past the initial tart flavors of green apple and grapefruit. Once it does, it will delight with juicy citrus, ample acidity, and plenty of grip.Hyland Vineyard Old Vine9235OregonMcMinnvilleWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Penner-Ash 2015 Hyland Vineyard Old Vine Riesling (McMinnville)RieslingPenner-Ash
3537235371GermanyWhile intensely fruity, a deep vein of crushed-slate minerality extends from nose to finish in this lithe Kabinett. Lip-smacking honey and peach flavors penetrate through the palate, electrified by a laser of lemon-lime acidity. Finishes remarkably dry and fresh.Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett9220MoselAnna Lee C. IijimaPeter Nicolay 2015 Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett Riesling (Mosel)RieslingPeter Nicolay
3537335372FranceThere can't be many, if any, other 100% Pinot Blanc Champagnes. Allowed in the appellation, the grape is only really found in this southern Aube region. It comes to the fore with Aurélien Gerbais (fourth generation), produced from vines planted in 1904. This wine is a soft, creamy and immediately drinkable, with ripe apple and pear flavors. It would repay a few months more in bottle; drink from 2017.L'Originale Extra Brut9289ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerPierre Gerbais NV L'Originale Extra Brut Pinot Blanc (Champagne)Pinot BlancPierre Gerbais
3537435373USThis vineyard dates to the Civil War era and is owned by Joel and Morgan Peterson, Joel of Ravenswood fame. Funky and selectively spicy, it shows its dry-farmed heritage with dusty tannin and stemmy earth, the density mellowed by piquant red fruit.Bedrock Vineyard9250CaliforniaSonoma CountySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneRobert Biale 2014 Bedrock Vineyard Zinfandel (Sonoma County)ZinfandelRobert Biale
3537535374USA robust, 100% varietal wine from the mountainous appellation, this impresses in its firmness of integrated tannin, making for a well-hewn, smooth texture. Cherry candy, currant and a suggestion of dried herb combine effectively, while the full-bodied nature of the wine offers breadth and length.9260CaliforniaSpring Mountain DistrictNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneTerra Valentine 2014 Cabernet Franc (Spring Mountain District)Cabernet FrancTerra Valentine
3537635375USMade from a single vineyard, this wine is both tasty and complex enough to stimulate the imagination. It smells like butter and cream, and tastes like ripe pear, toasted almonds and vanilla bean. Luscious yet a bit crisp, the texture feels great on the palate. Grenache Blanc, Piquepoul Blanc, Roussanne and Viognier all contributed.The Field Blend Windmill Vineyard9218CaliforniaDunnigan HillsCentral ValleyJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsThe Girls in the Vineyard 2014 The Field Blend Windmill Vineyard White (Dunnigan Hills)White BlendThe Girls in the Vineyard
3537735376AustraliaA consistent performer, Yalumba's Hand Picked Shiraz-Viognier seems slightly bigger and chunkier in 2008 than in the past, with bold fruit—blueberries and blackberries—accented by hints of mint. Expect some savory notes to develop over the next couple of years in bottle.Hand Picked9231South AustraliaBarossaJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzYalumba 2008 Hand Picked Shiraz-Viognier (Barossa)Shiraz-ViognierYalumba
3537835377ItalySyrah seems to enjoy the Cortona area of eastern Tuscany and this version, from vintner Fabrizio Dionisio, is a prime example. The wine is plump and rich, with lasting flavors of black cherry, sweet spice, tobacco, cured meat and black olive.Cuculaia92TuscanyCortonaFabrizio Dionisio 2007 Cuculaia Syrah (Cortona)SyrahFabrizio Dionisio
3537935378ItalyHere's a rich expression of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot in equal parts, with obvious notes of eucalyptus and black licorice lavished over a core of black cherry, leather and tobacco. The eucalyptus element is very evident and gives the wine a unique personality.Vignarè92TuscanyBolgheri SuperioreGuicciardini Strozzi 2006 Vignarè (Bolgheri Superiore)Red BlendGuicciardini Strozzi
3538035379ItalyMazzei, operating from the beautiful Castello Fonterutoli estate at the heart of Chianti Classico, consistently delivers top-shelf wines and this expression upholds this proud tradition. The bouquet is rich and intense, with forest berry, chocolate, cigar box and spiced rum cake. Freshness, brightness and polished tannins appear on the close.Castello Fonterutoli9260TuscanyChianti ClassicoMazzei 2008 Castello Fonterutoli (Chianti Classico)SangioveseMazzei
3538135380USThis is the first Grenache from Nefarious, and it's a beauty. Sourced from the Upland vineyard in the tiny Snipes Mountain AVA, it is bursting with pure, sweet fruit flavors, tart and lip-smackingly juicy. A subtle minerality with a hint of wet cement gives it tannic authority, while the aging in once-filled French oak barrels adds a touch of baking spices.9230WashingtonSnipes MountainColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Nefarious 2009 Grenache (Snipes Mountain)GrenacheNefarious
3538235381ItalyThis thick, juicy, inky wine (with a large component of Petit Verdot) would pair with aged cheese or pecorino. The wine is still young (let it age five more years) with firm, sticky tannins and loads of blackberry and plum cake on the long finish.Monteti9260TuscanyToscanaTenuta Monteti 2006 Monteti Red (Toscana)Red BlendTenuta Monteti
3538335382ItalyBeautiful richness and intensity make for a very welcoming bouquet. This 50-50 Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend lasts long on the palate, and boasts luscious aromas of blackberry, Maraschino cherry, tobacco and lightly toasted hazelnut. Extrasoft, velvety tannins characterize the finish.Bolgherese92TuscanyBolgheri SuperioreTenute di Vaira 2008 Bolgherese (Bolgheri Superiore)Red BlendTenute di Vaira
3538435383USSubstantial and varietally precise, this shows nicely focused red and black fruits with a concentrated backing of toast, coffee grounds, baking spices and chocolate. The fruit and barrel flavors are perfectly integrated, dusty and lush.9248WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Baby Bear 2008 Syrah (Columbia Valley (WA))SyrahBaby Bear
3538535384FranceA smooth, superripe wine, full of the sweetest fruit, big and rich. It is opulent, a powerhouse of dense Merlot fruits, rounded out with soft tannins.92265BordeauxPomerolRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Clinet 2009 PomerolBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Clinet
3538635385FranceThis is a chateau that is getting better and better. This 2009 is packed with sweet fruit, impressive tannins and a complex dark structure. It is fruity, yet powerful, for good aging.9258BordeauxSaint-EstèpheRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Lafon-Rochet 2009 Saint-EstèpheBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Lafon-Rochet
3538735386FranceA delicious wine, so fruity. It does have the proper tannins but it is a wine that is already approachable with its sweet fruits—a pleasure to taste. However, for the future, watch those tannins.9250BordeauxSaint-EstèpheRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau les Ormes de Pez 2009 Saint-EstèpheBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau les Ormes de Pez
3538835387FranceWith a blend that is half Cabernet Sauvignon, half Merlot, this is as rich as the year. The weight of fruit is borne by sweet tannins and layers of wood toast. There is a very dense dusty texture along with fine acidity and final blackberry fruit. It is for aging over the next 4–5 years.9222BordeauxHaut-MédocRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Paloumey 2009 Haut-MédocBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Paloumey
3538935388ItalyCollazzi's burly super Tuscan blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (aged 18 months in oak) offers elegance and sophistication in the form of blackberry, rum cake, exotic spice, cured meat and black pepper. It's a big, bold wine that would pair well with barbecued meats.9240TuscanyToscanaCollazzi 2006 Red (Toscana)Red BlendCollazzi
3539035389USTart and juicy, with wild raspberry fruit streaked with dried herb and just hinting at black cherry. This is a subtle yet powerful wine, with whiffs of smoke, licorice and coffee, but far less noticeable barrel influence than its companion reds. Focused and pure, with the structure to age.Harrison Hill9275WashingtonSnipes MountainColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine DeLille 2008 Harrison Hill Red (Snipes Mountain)Bordeaux-style Red BlendDeLille
3539135390ItalyThere's a touch of heat and power on the nose, followed by lush, compelling notes of cherry Maraschino, blackberry pie, chocolate and moist pipe tobacco. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot.Millepassi92TuscanyBolgheri SuperioreDonna Olimpia 1898 2008 Millepassi (Bolgheri Superiore)Red BlendDonna Olimpia 1898
3539235391AustraliaThe 2007 is full bodied and rich, but not really Beast-like at this stage of its evolution. The texture is creamy, the tannins nearly silky on the long finish. Flavors of blackberry, mocha and black olive linger. Drink now–2018.The Beast9275South AustraliaBarossa ValleyJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzHentley Farm 2007 The Beast Shiraz (Barossa Valley)ShirazHentley Farm
3539335392USForward, rather jammy in blackberry, black raspberry, cherry, cola and cedar, with a dessert pastry richness suggesting macaroons and oatmeal raisin cookies. Incongruous as it sounds, there's also a complementary dusting of dried rosemary, lavender and thyme, like the garrigue scent of a southern Rhône wine. Drinks delicious and smooth, although lacking a touch of the refinement of St. Eden.Vecina92210CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaBOND 2004 Vecina Red (Napa Valley)Bordeaux-style Red BlendBOND
3539435393USA real success, this 100% Merlot, sourced from the Stillwater Creek and Conner Lee vineyards, is exotically scented with a rich mix of baking spices, coffee, dust, pencil lead and cedar. Lots of oak influence, but it plays well against the tart and mellow berry flavors. There is a suggestion of dried leaf, perhaps an indication of older vines.Benchmark9235WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Market Vineyards 2008 Benchmark Merlot (Columbia Valley (WA))MerlotMarket Vineyards
3539535394ItalyThis Chianti Classico Riserva is a balanced and intense wine with beautiful aromas of dark fruit, sweet spice, chocolate fudge, espresso bean and pipe tobacco. That bright Sangiovese freshness pops in on the finish.Ser Lapo Riserva9230TuscanyChianti ClassicoMazzei 2008 Ser Lapo Riserva (Chianti Classico)SangioveseMazzei
3539635395ItalyA pure expression of Syrah from coastal Tuscany, this plush wine opens with cherry, tobacco and cigar-like aromas. It's fine, elegant and streamlined on the finish thanks to a touch of crispness.9275TuscanyToscanaMichele Satta 2009 Syrah (Toscana)SyrahMichele Satta
3539735396SpainLively, piercing and powerful on the bouquet, which is solid as stone and delivers loads of black fruit and integrated oak. Feels full, round and deep, with full-out black fruit flavors strengthened by espresso, mocha and molasses. Toasty and deep on the finish, with tobacco and spice accents. Drink from 2012 through 2015.Victorino9269Northern SpainToroMichael Schachner@wineschachTeso La Monja 2009 Victorino (Toro)Tinta de ToroTeso La Monja
3539835397USThe vineyard is in a very cool, damp part of the valley, and this particular bottling always shows a dry finish, considerable tannins and an earthiness not found in warmer parts of the appellation. This 2008 follows those lines. It has a dense core of sour cherry candy fruit, with some superripe currants. Will age interestingly over the decade.Trenton Estate Vineyard9252CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaJoseph Swan Vineyards 2008 Trenton Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirJoseph Swan Vineyards
3539935398USElevates the Keller style of superripe, oaky Chardonnay into a more refined, balanced wine, equally rich but more perfect. It's still potent in buttered toast, vanilla, caramel, honey and pineapple jam, but crisp acidity and minerality help to give structure to the opulence.Precioso9275CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaKeller Estate 2009 Precioso Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast)ChardonnayKeller Estate
3540035399AustraliaThis wine's velvety mouthfeel sets it apart from the pack, as does the vibrancy of its dark berry fruit. Hints of vanilla and mint accent the fruit without detracting from it, as does a subtle layer of mocha. Long and layered on the finish; drink now–2020.Hand Picked9231South AustraliaBarossaJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzYalumba 2007 Hand Picked Shiraz-Viognier (Barossa)Shiraz-ViognierYalumba

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