Wine Reviews


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3819138190FranceThis is a dry style of wine, with great acidity and a tightly wrought texture. As with many Gosset Champagnes, this wine has had no malolactic fermentation, enhancing the freshness and crispness as well as the structure. Full of lemon zest, crisp grapefruit and delicious acidity, it will still age for many years. Drink from 2017.Grand Millésime Brut9495ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerGosset 2006 Grand Millésime Brut (Champagne)Champagne BlendGosset
3819238191South AfricaA blend of 28% Cabernet Franc, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Malbec, 18% Petit Verdot and 10% Merlot, this is a big, bold and powerful wine, with superb balance and a firm, concentrated structure that promises great long-term aging. Dense aromas and flavors of blackberry, boysenberry, cherry and fig are layered with notes of cocoa powder, roasted espresso bean and cigar tobacco. Ripe, rich and lush, but not overdone, hints of charred oak and black pepper linger on the finish. Drink 2018–2025.MR de Compostella9465StellenboschLauren Buzzeo@laurbuzzMvemve Raats 2012 MR de Compostella Red (Stellenbosch)Bordeaux-style Red BlendMvemve Raats
3819338192USVoluptuously tropical in shaved coconut and silky layers of peach and pear, this is a complex, age-worthy white from a stellar vineyard site, a knockout version of the variety. Smooth and round, it maintains a core of acidity that buoys the experience, finishing with a flourish. Drink now through 2022.Ulises Valdez Vineyard9470CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vboonePaul Hobbs 2012 Ulises Valdez Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)ChardonnayPaul Hobbs
3819438193South AfricaBold, dark and concentrated, this blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Malbec, 10% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 9% Petit Verdot still shows some youthful restraint on the nose and palate, suggesting this is a wine best enjoyed after 2018 and through 2024. Seductive notes of toasted oak, cocoa nib, licorice and Thin Mint kiss the black-fruit core of boysenberry, blackberry and cherry. The mouthfeel is dense, with a firm structure and bold tannins that grip the long, spicy finish.Fusion V9460StellenboschLauren Buzzeo@laurbuzzDe Toren 2012 Fusion V Red (Stellenbosch)Bordeaux-style Red BlendDe Toren
3819538194ItalyBoasting lovely depth and great complexity, this iconic bottling opens with scents of toasted hazelnut, exotic fruit, baking spice and a balsamic note. The creamy, elegantly structured palate offers nectarine zest, ripe golden apple, pastry cream, roasted nut and a honey note alongside an ultrafine perlage.Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore94130Northeastern ItalyTrentoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeFerrari 2004 Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore Chardonnay (Trento)ChardonnayFerrari
3819638195USGrapes from this tiny AVA frequently deliver that something extra that catapults Pinot into a higher dimension. Here, solid cherry and berry tones bear almost indefinable traces of iron, mineral and sweet hay. Delicious already, this should continue to improve through 2020.Le Pré du Col Vineyard9460OregonRibbon RidgeWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Bergström 2013 Le Pré du Col Vineyard Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge)Pinot NoirBergström
3819738196USProduced cryogenically, this sweet dessert wine is made with estate-grown fruit. A floral nose is rich with scents of orange blossoms, while in the mouth it coats the palate with flavors of lemon drops, candied papaya and dried mango fruits. The concentration and balance are superb, with more than enough acidity to counterbalance the sugar. Drink now through 2030.Cuore d'Oro9436OregonChehalem MountainsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Lachini 2014 Cuore d'Oro Muscat Canelli (Chehalem Mountains)Muscat CanelliLachini
3819838197FranceWith 49% Chardonnay and 51% Pinot Noir from grand cru vineyards, this well-balanced wine is just coming into its best years. Crisp and dry, following the Lanson style of no malolactic fermentation, the wine is full of white fruits, citrus and hints of toast, based around a tangy, mineral texture. Drink now and until 2025.Gold Label Brut Vintage9490ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerLanson 2005 Gold Label Brut Vintage (Champagne)Champagne BlendLanson
3819938198FranceThe top wine from Mailly, this is rich with a good balance between its fresh white fruits streaked with lemon and its tight texture. Together, these two aspects hold the wine poised and coiled, a tight wine that is now just at maturity. Drink now and until 2022.Les Echansons Grand Cru Brut94130ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerMailly Grand Cru 2006 Les Echansons Grand Cru Brut (Champagne)Champagne BlendMailly Grand Cru
3820038199USComing from a block of vines called South Pointe that are planted closest to the vineyard's creek, this wine shows plum and raspberry fruits on the nose along with smoked licorice and black slate. It's ripe in raspberry flavor at the tip of the sip, but then clings to a restrained line of graphite and peppery, acidic spice, continuing to evolve deep into the finish.Zabala Vineyard9438CaliforniaArroyo SecoCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannMercy 2012 Zabala Vineyard Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco)Pinot NoirMercy
3820138200USCaramelized oak and vanilla make for a thick, rich and buttery experience in this bold, but balanced wine. Juicy and tempered, it exudes passionfruit and lime in abundance, with a seasoning of fennel and dried herb. Drink now through 2020.Richard Dinner Vineyard Cuvée Agustina94100CaliforniaSonoma MountainSonomaVirginie Boone@vboonePaul Hobbs 2012 Richard Dinner Vineyard Cuvée Agustina Chardonnay (Sonoma Mountain)ChardonnayPaul Hobbs
3820238201USA 100% varietal wine entirely from the producer's Napa side of its property, this special cuvée is thick and rich in black and blue fruit, generously soft and silky on the palate with well-integrated oak. Complex and built to age, it finishes in a jolt of black pepper and licorice. Enjoy now through 2022.Vintner Select9490CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaVirginie Boone@vboonePride Mountain 2012 Vintner Select Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonPride Mountain
3820338202PortugalMade from old vines, this is a powerful wine that is reminiscent of a dry Port. This gives the wine density and richness, along with firm tannins and flavors from the wood aging. The black fruits are still developing, showing youthful freshness. This intense wine has plenty of development ahead of it; drink from 2018.Reserva9439DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerQuinta dos Murças 2011 Reserva Red (Douro)Portuguese RedQuinta dos Murças
3820438203USFrom one of the Napa Valley's most historically famous sites, this Cab delivers a testament to gamy blackberry and blueberry alongside complex cassis, clove and black licorice. Full bodied and richly concentrated, it's also soft and well integrated, entirely pleasurable now, with years to go in terms of structure and body. Cellar through 2027 and possibly beyond.To Kalon Vineyard Reserve94145CaliforniaOakvilleNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneRobert Mondavi 2012 To Kalon Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville)Cabernet SauvignonRobert Mondavi
3820538204FranceMade from only Grand Cru vineyards, this ripe, full and wonderfully textured wine is rich and complex. It brings out tangy orange and lemon zest, a tightly mineral texture, fragrant fruit and acidity. Dense and concentrated, the wine would benefit from some bottle age to bring out all its flavors.Prélude Grands Crus Brut9495ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerTaittinger NV Prélude Grands Crus Brut (Champagne)Champagne BlendTaittinger
3820638205PortugalFermented in open-top tanks, this dense and beautifully concentrated wine is rich and structured while remaining sophisticated. Although it is still young, it's supported by ripe, intense black fruits and balanced acidity. This has a long way to develop, so drink from 2018.Esporão Private Selection9465AlentejoRoger Voss@vossrogerHerdade do Esporão 2011 Esporão Private Selection Red (Alentejo)Portuguese RedHerdade do Esporão
3820738206FranceVeuve Clicquot's prestige cuvée is named after the widow Clicquot, the great lady who built up the house in the early 19th century. This latest incarnation is just showing signs of ripe toasty maturity. It is rich and soft with a high dosage, in the house style, with a full panoply of lime, red apple and apricot. Drink now and until 2022.La Grande Dame Brut94145ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerVeuve Clicquot Ponsardin 2006 La Grande Dame Brut (Champagne)Champagne BlendVeuve Clicquot Ponsardin
3820838207USBryan Babcock sources from the Buona Terra Vineyard for this bottling that shows intensely focused aromas of candied pomegranate, cola, anise seed and dew on sweet sagebrush. It's rich and soft on the palate, yet lively with intense herbal energy and grippy tension, all laid across the juice of ripe red berries.Déjà Vu9460CaliforniaSta. Rita HillsCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannBabcock 2013 Déjà Vu Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills)Pinot NoirBabcock
3820938208SpainThis muscular, stout Monastrell sweet wine is all aces. Blackberry, cassis and fine oak aromas precede a sensationally smooth palate that's full of toffee, chocolate, coffee, pepper, blackberry and cassis flavors. A long, warm, impeccably balanced finish is pure and delicious. Drink through 2025.Recóndita Armonía Dulce9435Spain OtherSpainMichael Schachner@wineschachBodegas Gutiérrez de la Vega 2013 Recóndita Armonía Dulce Monastrell (Spain)MonastrellBodegas Gutiérrez de la Vega
3821038209FranceExtra Age in the name means just that. This wine has been given more time (5 years) in bottle before release. That results in a very fine wine, a blend of 2002, 2004 and 2005 that has more depth of flavor and richness as well as showing some bottle maturity. Like all Lanson wines, it is dry although this rosé also brings out crisp red currant fruits and tight acidity. It is ready to drink.Extra Age Brut Rosé94125ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerLanson NV Extra Age Brut Rosé (Champagne)Champagne BlendLanson
3821138210CanadaThis 100% varietal cuvée is smoky, supple and detailed. From the first sniff, what comes to mind is spice-rubbed grilled venison. In the glass it's fresh and full, with blackberry and loganberry jam. The freshness, tension and balance are pitch-perfect.Cuvée Classique9445British ColumbiaOkanagan ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Le Vieux Pin 2012 Cuvée Classique Syrah (Okanagan Valley)SyrahLe Vieux Pin
3821238211USLavender and other purple flowers meld with graphite, concentrated strawberries and dried raspberries on this wine from a cherished block on a historic vineyard. It's snappy on the palate, with sharp pomegranate fruit and tongue-tingling acidity. A tad of brie, watermelon and shiitake mushroom pop up toward the finish.Bien Nacido Vineyard Block N9450CaliforniaSanta Maria ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannLongoria 2013 Bien Nacido Vineyard Block N Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley)Pinot NoirLongoria
3821338212USCrisp and crunchy red fruit like cranberry surround a tight, grippy structure seasoned well in cola and Asian spice. Full bodied, the wine is textured and elegant, robust without being overbearing, a standout for the producer and the appellation in a picture-perfect vintage year, sourced from both the Wayfarer and Hallberg vineyards. Drink now through 2023.Jayson9460CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaVirginie Boone@vboonePahlmeyer 2013 Jayson Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)Pinot NoirPahlmeyer
3821438213USRich red cherries, raspberries, red currants, concentrated rose petals and hibiscus are cut with an edge of eucalyptus oil, chipped slate and purple sage on this stellar bottling from this producer's 25th vintage. Dark fruits of blueberry, blackberry and black cherry emerge across a deeply layered palate, which is boosted by violet and lavender florality.Pisoni Vineyard9490CaliforniaSanta Lucia HighlandsCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannPatz & Hall 2012 Pisoni Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands)Pinot NoirPatz & Hall
3821538214USBlending the earthy elements of the low-alcohol movement with the characteristic ripeness of California fruit, this wine by Trey Fletcher offers rhubarb, wet strawberry leaves, pencil shavings, rose hips, wild berries and anise on the nose. The extremely soft palate shows stewed raspberries, poppy seeds and rose petals, proving unique but varietally appropriate.9460CaliforniaSanta Maria ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannSolomon Hills 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley)Pinot NoirSolomon Hills
3821638215FranceFrom parcels of old vines in the Côte des Blancs, this limited-edition wine is a beautiful Chardonnay. It is finely woven, tightly textured and crisp in apple skin and lemon notes. Concentration from the low-yielding vines gives great depth and the potential to still age well. Drink this exceptional wine from 2017.La Vigne aux Gamins Cuvée de 343594150ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerThiénot 2004 La Vigne aux Gamins Cuvée de 3435 Chardonnay (Champagne)ChardonnayThiénot
3821738216USThe muscular flavors of Shea vineyard fruit shine through, a potent, briary mix of berries, thistle and highlights of orange peel and coriander. In a vintage of more muted, refined wines, this qualifies as a blockbuster.Shea Vineyard9460OregonWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Bergström 2013 Shea Vineyard Pinot NoirPinot NoirBergström
3821838217FranceSmooth and rich, a wine that seems soft rather than focused. Hints of wood add to the attraction, while pear and lychee flavors give further ripeness. It probably needs several months, or a year, to come together.Charmes Premier Cru90BurgundyMeursaultRoger Voss@vossrogerMaison Jessiaume 2007 Charmes Premier Cru (Meursault)ChardonnayMaison Jessiaume
3821938218FranceA big wine, with structure and fruit. The mild tannins are a counterpoint to the harmonious red berries, acidity and dense texture. Boasts a delicious, sensuous finale. For medium-term aging.Les Damaudes9060BurgundyVosne-RomanéeRoger Voss@vossrogerManuel Olivier 2007 Les Damaudes (Vosne-Romanée)Pinot NoirManuel Olivier
3822038219ChileOne of the best values in Chilean wine is Quatro, a lusty blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Carmenère and Syrah. The nose is deep and roasted, with aromas of bacon, vanilla, pastry and black fruit. Lush and full in the mouth, with intense blackberry and cassis flavors. A titan at a great price, and ageable over the short term. Drink now through 2013.Quatro9015Colchagua ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachMontGras 2008 Quatro Red (Colchagua Valley)Red BlendMontGras

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