Wine Reviews


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4142041419USThe best Syrah yet from this biodynamic producer, this was fermented with native yeast and spent 10 months in 40% new French oak. It's a sleek, subtle and immensely complex wine that knits together beautifully. Juicy boysenberries, composted earth, iron filings and veins of coffee liqueur and licorice compound into a long finish.Syrah 209445OregonApplegate ValleySouthern OregonPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Cowhorn 2012 Syrah 20 Syrah (Applegate Valley)SyrahCowhorn
4142141420FranceThe Monts Damnés, the cursed hill because its steepness makes it so difficult to work, faces south-east and gives the ripest grapes. This rich wine exemplifies the richness of the wines from this vineyard. It is finely rounded, stylish and full of opulent fruitiness. All this is tempered by a tight, mineral texture that gives the wine a fine final bite. Drink from 2017.Monts Damnés9459Loire ValleySancerreRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Delaporte 2014 Monts Damnés (Sancerre)Sauvignon BlancDomaine Delaporte
4142241421FranceEarthy notes of pear mix with the generous sweetness of a late harvest wine. The palate is concentrated and lushly sweet, but full of rich flavors, tinged with pear and orange, caramel and lemon oil, acacia honey and candied lemon peel. Lovely, bright and still totally fresh. Drink 2016–2030.Rangen Grand Cru Clos Saint Théobald Vendanges Tardives9472AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Schoffit 2007 Rangen Grand Cru Clos Saint Théobald Vendanges Tardives Pinot Gris (Alsace)Pinot GrisDomaine Schoffit
4142341422PortugalNamed after the endangered Black Wheatear bird that nests in the Duorum vineyards, this wine is seriously powerful and dense. It has a dark structure, tannins that will still take time to soften. Black plums and dark berries are lifted with acidity, showing the potential of this wine. Drink from 2019.O. Leucura Reserva9499DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerDuorum 2011 O. Leucura Reserva Red (Douro)Portuguese RedDuorum
4142441423ArgentinaRarely do you come across something like this: mature and complex Malbec from Cafayate. Earthy aromas of plum, prune, raisin and tobacco give this an Old World bouquet. Saturated but with enough acidity to maintain balance, this tastes rooty, chocolaty and earthy, with mocha, toast and toffee flavors on a heady finish. Drink now.Yacochuya9470OtherCafayateMichael Schachner@wineschachBodega Rolland 2006 Yacochuya Malbec (Cafayate)MalbecBodega Rolland
4142541424PortugalBeing a wood-aged Moscatel de Setúbal, this has wonderful blend of bitter marmalade and intense honey flavors. It has been matured in old wood, some used before with Armagnac brandy, and has developed this fine nutty character. The wine has been bottled to be drunk now.Loboroxo94Moscatel de SetúbalRoger Voss@vossrogerLobo 2009 Loboroxo (Moscatel de Setúbal)Moscatel RoxoLobo
4142641425USYou've got to love the exotic aromas, great balance and firm texture of this complex Pinot. It's medium bodied, tangy and delicious due to good acidity and fresh, vibrant raspberry and red cherry flavors. It has appropriate fine tannins for a gripping mouthfeel, and a lingering finish.Akiko's Cuvée9462CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsFreeman 2013 Akiko's Cuvée Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)Pinot NoirFreeman
4142741426USThis bottling, limited to just 25 cases, comes out scented with oaky toast, cherry pipe tobacco and baking spices. Flavors of spiced cranberries, strawberry preserves and cherry compôte carry it along into a finish streaked with vanilla. It's big without any awkwardness, and should be consumed now through 2020.Estate Justina9485OregonChehalem MountainsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Alloro 2012 Estate Justina Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains)Pinot NoirAlloro
4140141400ItalyAromas of blue flower, rich black fruit, cooking spices, leather and thyme waft out of the glass of this soulful young Taurasi. The palate offers a juicy core of black cherry accented by notes of black pepper, nutmeg, eucalyptus, pipe tobacco and mineral, with firm acidity and velvety tannins. It's already delicious, but hold for additional complexity. Drink 2019–2029.Vigne d'Alto9470Southern ItalyTaurasiKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeContrade di Taurasi - Lonardo 2009 Vigne d'Alto (Taurasi)AglianicoContrade di Taurasi - Lonardo
4142841427FranceSoft perfume susbsumes citrus, apple and peach. All three are referenced in equal measure on the dry, clean palate. This has a soft aspect but is nonetheless fresh, taut, concentrated and linear. It comes with huge charm and clarity and finishes with pure, zesty dryness and pure, pervasive and lasting apple notes. Still young, oozing potential. Drink 2017–2030.Wiebelsberg Grand Cru9435AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoBoeckel 2013 Wiebelsberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace)RieslingBoeckel
4142941428PortugalA single vintage tawny, this is gorgeously nutty with dried fig and raisin flavors while keeping plenty of freshness and orange zest flavors. The wine is rich, full in the mouth, intense, hinting at the wood in which it was aged and bringing in spice and pepper as well as more aromatic fruits. Like all tawnies, it is ready to drink.Colheita Tawny9495PortRoger Voss@vossrogerQuinta do Noval 2000 Colheita Tawny (Port)PortQuinta do Noval
4140241401FranceFrom vines just below the line of Grand Cru vineyards, this is a big and powerful expression of Pinot Noir. It is dense with firm tannins that are embedded in the ripe black fruits. It's a complex wine, serious while still fruity, and needing to age. Drink from 2018.Petite Chapelle Premier Cru9497BurgundyGevrey-ChambertinRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Rossignol-Trapet 2011 Petite Chapelle Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin)Pinot NoirDomaine Rossignol-Trapet
4143041429PortugalMade from a field blend of old vines to which some Tinta Roriz added, this powerful, ripe and fruity wine is both concentrated and superbly generous. It has swathes of black fruits, dark tannins and minerality, all striated with acidity and a firm black plum skin texture. This is a wine to age, drink from 2019.Referência Grand Reserva94110DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerQuinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo 2013 Referência Grand Reserva Red (Douro)Portuguese RedQuinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo
4140341402USThis is Doubleback's first vintage to include estate-grown grapes in the blend. Truffle, mocha and ripe purple-fruit scents explode from the glass. Ample acidity underscores the chewy tannins. A dense and ageworthy wine, this needs more bottle-age to show its best; try after 2018.9489WashingtonWalla Walla Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Doubleback 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley (WA))Cabernet SauvignonDoubleback
4140441403USA blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, The Wanted is sourced from the Stillwater Creek and Stonetree vineyards. This textural, Cab-on-Cab creation is loaded with fig, plum, cherry and cassis fruit, highlights of cedar and tobacco, and supple, rich, ripe tannins. The wine is showing beautifully, but can only get even better with more age.The Wanted9437WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Guardian 2011 The Wanted Red (Columbia Valley (WA))Bordeaux-style Red BlendGuardian
4140541404SpainThis burly Tempranillo opens with an alluring blend of graphite, stony mineral, marzipan and ripe black-fruit aromas. The palate is lusty, giant and tannic, but not mean or fierce. Blackberry, cassis and chocolate flavors end with café mocha and licorice notes, while tannic grab suggests aging this until 2015–16 and drinking through 2023.San Román9470Northern SpainToroMichael Schachner@wineschachMaurodos 2010 San Román (Toro)Tinta de ToroMaurodos
4140641405FranceAt this stage, this wine is closed, tight and mineral in character. As befits a great Perrières, it will be a serious, structured wine, textured and full of nervy, steely feeling, softening later into mature spice and toast. Drink from 2016.Perrières Premier Cru9495BurgundyMeursaultRoger Voss@vossrogerBouchard Père & Fils 2011 Perrières Premier Cru (Meursault)ChardonnayBouchard Père & Fils
4140741406FranceThis iconic wine is rich and perfumed. It's powerful and concentrated, with layers of wood contrasted by explosive, ripe fruits. Ripe red-fruit flavors are brightened by ample acidity, resulting in a sumptuous wine that also has enough tannins to age. Drink from 2018.Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus Grèves Premier Cru94100BurgundyBeauneRoger Voss@vossrogerBouchard Père & Fils 2011 Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus Grèves Premier Cru (Beaune)Pinot NoirBouchard Père & Fils
4140841407FranceRich and rounded, the wine has classic power. Wood flavors show strongly at this stage in its development, but it is full, ripe, full of yellow fruits, pineapple and apple skins. The wine has great weight, but offers a fresh, straight and crisp aftertaste. Drink from 2018.94BurgundyCorton-CharlemagneRoger Voss@vossrogerChanson Père et Fils 2011 Corton-CharlemagneChardonnayChanson Père et Fils
4140941408USA brooding Cabernet full of green and black olive, velvety cassis and cinnamon spice, this is ready to enjoy now. A juicy red, it has resolved tannins and a lingering taste of tobacco. Power and finesse are here, along with smoky minerality and savory fruit.If Six Was Nine Reserve9445CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneWorld's End 2010 If Six Was Nine Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonWorld's End
4141041409USA Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this also holds small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Sourced from the Conner Lee and Stonetree vineyards, it's supple, smooth and textural, with elegant, perfectly ripened fruit and a judicious application of two-thirds new French oak. It captures the elegance, restraint and overall structure of the challenging (and rewarding) 2011 vintage.Gun Metal9439WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Guardian 2011 Gun Metal Red (Columbia Valley (WA))Bordeaux-style Red BlendGuardian
4141141410FranceJaboulet's Condrieu program takes a huge step forward with this release, which artfully combines barrel fermentation and aging with just-ripe Viognier into a compelling and cohesive whole. The toast and baking-spice elements provide the right amount of restraint to the tropical fruit notes, which then finish with tremendous, mouthwatering length. Drink now–2020.Domaine de Grands Amandiers93100Rhône ValleyCondrieuJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzPaul Jaboulet Aîné 2010 Domaine de Grands Amandiers (Condrieu)ViognierPaul Jaboulet Aîné
4141241411FranceA terrific effort, the 2010 Terre Ferme is a full-bodied, velvety-textured wine with a long, multidimensional finish. It's pungent and savory upfront in its aromas of clove and allspice, but raspberry undertones add another layer of interest and those grace notes are all underscored by the powerful bass duo of black olive and espresso. Drink now–2025.Domaine de Terre Ferme93100Rhône ValleyChâteauneuf-du-PapeJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzPaul Jaboulet Aîné 2010 Domaine de Terre Ferme Red (Châteauneuf-du-Pape)Rhône-style Red BlendPaul Jaboulet Aîné
4141341412FranceSubtle notions of ripe peach circle above a compact, bundled palate of peach and spice: perhaps vanilla, perhaps pepper. The distinct but subtle sweetness on the palate is countered by a firm, focussed freshness which in turn contrasts with pleasant warmth. The dramatic palate draws you so far into its quicksand-like depth that you almost forget to notice the more ethereal, scented clouds of peach. Pure joy.Goldert Grand Cru9465AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Zind-Humbrecht 2013 Goldert Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace)GewürztraminerDomaine Zind-Humbrecht
4141441413FranceThe aromatics take time to come to the fore but they are definitely there: notes of lifted Poire William and ripe, golden-cheeked apricots are hinted at. The medium-sweet palate brings them out in full force, glowing with a ripe opulence tempered by freshness and a slight phenolic grip. There is a luminous quality to this wine, shining its way ahead into the future, guided by a seam of freshness and focus on the midpalate, echoing with bitter almond and more fruit. Drink 2016–2026.Hengst Grand Cru9490AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Zind-Humbrecht 2013 Hengst Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace)GewürztraminerDomaine Zind-Humbrecht
4141541414SpainOf all the Atauta single-vineyard wines from the sensational 2011 vintage, La Mala is arguably the most overtly oaky and modern in style. Grainy, resiny barrel-driven aromas come with controlled burn and heat. This is tannic and firm as cement, with ample oak resin creating a creamy feel. Resiny, fully spiced black-fruit flavors end with pepper, wood grain, burnt toast and other oaky notes. Drink from 2018–2031.La Mala94140Northern SpainRibera del DueroMichael Schachner@wineschachDominio de Atauta 2011 La Mala (Ribera del Duero)Tinto FinoDominio de Atauta
4141641415USThe famed winery comes a bit south to make this earthy, savory wine, with smoked sage, leather, forest floor, cherry and slate on the nose. The palate packs elegantly tart cranberry and pure flavors of sage-smoked wild cherry with the juicy elements of an herb-crusted pork tenderloin roast.Vista Verde Vineyard9458CaliforniaSan Benito CountyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannWilliams Selyem 2013 Vista Verde Vineyard Pinot Noir (San Benito County)Pinot NoirWilliams Selyem
4141741416PortugalMost of the Douro's older vineyards produce field blends from the random planting of vines in the past. In this wine, some of the vines are over 80 years old. It makes for a complex wine, dense with tannins and packed with ripe red fruits and acidity. This impressive wine is still developing, and should not be drunk before 2019.Reserva Field Blend9465DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerQuinta do Vallado 2013 Reserva Field Blend Red (Douro)Portuguese RedQuinta do Vallado
4141841417GermanySwirls of rich, ripe yellow peach and orange penetrate the palate of this finely textured spätlese. It's thrilling and zesty yet lusciously juicy, finishing long with a slatey, mineral tang. It drinks beautifully now but should maintain its fresh, fruity disposition till at least 2020 and gain elegance and minerality for another decade.Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Spätlese Grosse Lage9433MoselAnna Lee C. IijimaReichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2014 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Spätlese Grosse Lage Riesling (Mosel)RieslingReichsgraf von Kesselstatt
4141941418USMade from a single clone, this wine delivers quiet explosions of clove, black currant and black pepper that flirt around a luxurious texture and unobtrusive oak, finding balance and integration amid plenty of complexity. Fully engaged and drinking nicely now, it'll stand up to further cellaring, through 2023.Three Twins Vineyard94110CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneStone The Crows 2013 Three Twins Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonStone The Crows

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