Wine Reviews


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4149141490USThe grapes come from the Chicken Dinner vineyard, which says it all. Pop this tart, tangy wine, with its Zin-like red berry flavors and hints of white pepper, and bring on the fried chicken. —P.G.Winemaker's Series8610IdahoIdahoPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Ste. Chapelle 2000 Winemaker's Series Syrah (Idaho)SyrahSte. Chapelle
4149241491USSmells sulfury on opening, and these fumes blow off only with difficulty. Afterward, the wine reveals black cherry aromas veering into chocolate, and drinks rich. There's a blast of fabulously ripe wild berry fruit, and it's dry. But loses points for the opening odor. Tasted twice, with consistent results. —S.H.Domenici Vineyards8625CaliforniaSonoma ValleySonomaSebastiani 1999 Domenici Vineyards Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley)ZinfandelSebastiani
4149341492AustraliaAttractive aromatics and plenty of complexity are the pluses; the minus is a healthy dose of bell pepper. Smoke, herbs, eucalyptus and sour cherry hang on a claret-style frame. —J.C.8630VictoriaVictoriaJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzVirgin Hills 1998 Red (Victoria)Red BlendVirgin Hills
4149441493AustraliaAptly named, for the oak influence here is strong—a dusty woodiness that's almost cedary. Fortunately, it's well integrated with the full-bodied cherry fruit. Finishes dry, but soft and ripe. —J.C.8618South AustraliaMcLaren ValeJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzTwelve Staves 2000 Grenache (McLaren Vale)GrenacheTwelve Staves
4149541494USPossesses deep flavors of currants and blackberries, and yet you still have to wonder why it merits bottling on its own. It's bone-dry and tannic, and its austerity is a challenge. —S.H.T-bar-T8626CaliforniaAlexander ValleySonomaIron Horse 1999 T-bar-T Cabernet Franc (Alexander Valley)Cabernet FrancIron Horse
4149641495AustraliaAt two-thirds Grenache and one-third Mourvèdre, this wine comes across full and rich, and a trifle alcoholic. The overall sensation is of a cherry-vanilla sundae smothered in toffee and chocolate—too much of a good thing for some tasters, heaven in a glass to others. —J.C.Grenache-Mourvedre869South AustraliaSouth AustraliaJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzTatachilla 1999 Grenache-Mourvedre Red (South Australia)Rhône-style Red BlendTatachilla
4149741496USThe style is usually big and bold, but for the moment this wine, though dense and dark, has a hole in the middle. Rich scents of black cherry, blueberry and earth seem to vanish, leaving only a tannic finish. —P.G8615WashingtonYakima ValleyColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Tefft Cellars 1999 Merlot (Yakima Valley)MerlotTefft Cellars
4149841497AustriaSmells nice enough, with rich custardy aromas, freshly baked sweetened piecrust, and peaches and vanilla. It tastes much drier than you'd think, given the opening. Delicate peach and hazelnut flavors are offset by decent, not great, acidity. In fact, if the acids were higher, the wine would be better. —S.H.Gelber8623AustriaRepolusk 2000 Gelber Muskateller (Austria)MuskatellerRepolusk
4149941498USThe blend is almost equal—53% Cab and 47% Merlot—and the definite dill and bell pepper aromas indicate less- than-stellar fruit. But the wine is well made and budget priced, and enough black cherry fruit is bobbing beneath the surface to make things work. Stiff tannins lead into a roasted coffee finish. —P.G.8611WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Snoqualmie 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Columbia Valley (WA))Cabernet Sauvignon-MerlotSnoqualmie
4150041499USThis vineyard straddles the cool-hot line between Anderson Valley and Alexander Valley, but in this vintage, warm weather won out. The wine is good, but too full-bodied, and wants the delicacy Pinot Noir demands. The flavors have a heaviness more akin to Syrah. —S.H.Weir Vineyard8630CaliforniaMendocinoRutz 1999 Weir Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mendocino)Pinot NoirRutz
4150141500USAn interesting wine, grown in Cabernet country, that's as full-bodied as a red wine. The flavors are solidly Viognier, though, with exotic tropical fruits and wild flowers that drink almost off-dry. Plenty of oak and sur lie aging provide textural complexities. —S.H.8619CaliforniaRutherfordNapaSpencer Roloson 2000 Viognier (Rutherford)ViognierSpencer Roloson
4150241501USBright in aromas of pineapple, lemon and green apple, but also boasting sweet cream and yeastiness, this wine is layered on the nose. Zippy and fresh, with ample acidity and flavors of subdued lemon and pineapple, it's an easy wine to pair with dishes from halibut to a more robust pork chop.8724VirginiaMonticelloCarrie DykesStinson 2014 Chardonnay (Monticello)ChardonnayStinson
4150341502AustraliaTahbilk's Marsanne is always difficult to evaluate young, as it's invariably rather neutral in aroma and flavor. Subtle notes of pear and marshmallow make a fleeting appearance before yielding to crisp, lemony finish. Drink now with oysters, or hold 5–10 years for greater weight, texture and versatility with food.Estate Grown and Bottled8718VictoriaNagambie LakesJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzTahbilk 2015 Estate Grown and Bottled Marsanne (Nagambie Lakes)MarsanneTahbilk
4150441503USBlended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this medium-weight effort carries scents of tomato leaf and Mediterranean herbs. Those highlights continue into the palate, with pomegranate fruit and a dry pleasant lightly herbal character.8730OregonSouthern OregonSouthern OregonPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Season 2013 Malbec (Southern Oregon)MalbecSeason
4150541504ItalyMade of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo and 10% Malvasia Bianca, this opens with red-skinned fruit and an earthy underbrush aromas. The fresh, straightforward palate evokes red cherry and chopped herb, framed by smooth tannins. Enjoy soon.Vegante8716TuscanyChiantiKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeSensi 2015 Vegante (Chianti)Red BlendSensi
4150641505USBarrel fermented and aged for 14 months in French oak, this enters with a nutty, toasty flavor around lighter fruit. Jicama, apple and white peach combine in the midpalate, then thin out quickly, with some bite to the finish.8730OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Soléna 2015 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley)ChardonnaySoléna
4150741506USTemperance Hill grapes are sourced for this Pinot Noir project. Barrel spices dominate, with tart berry fruit in the background. It's a solid effort, though it thins out and feels a bit stripped in the finish.L'Autre8736OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Sparkman 2013 L'Autre Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirSparkman
4150841507USPungent grassy notes lead the nose of this bottling from Vina Robles, with rounder passionfruit scents as well. The palate combines flinty minerality with lime zest, kumquat and herbal flavors, recalling its initial grassiness.8716CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannVina Robles 2015 Sauvignon Blanc (Paso Robles)Sauvignon BlancVina Robles
4150941508USRipe blueberry and huckleberry flavors form a wall of fruitiness in this full-bodied, ready-to-enjoy red, offering a soft, simple layering of cedar and mocha.8755CaliforniaRutherfordNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneWilliam Harrison 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford)Cabernet SauvignonWilliam Harrison
4151041509USThe most recent planting at the estate vineyard gets its own designate. It's 100% Dijon 777 clone, and the flavors push stem and rock and forest floor front and center. For some tasters, that's enough; for others, a bit more actual fruit would be welcome. Right now it's a stiff, herbal wine that's already showing signs of drying out.Bailey Block8740OregonMcMinnvilleWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Youngberg Hill Vineyards 2014 Bailey Block Pinot Noir (McMinnville)Pinot NoirYoungberg Hill Vineyards
4151141510USThe strawberry fruit shows a wild herbal side, with a touch of toasted grain. The tannins are firm and the finish carries a hint of chicken broth.8730OregonRogue ValleySouthern OregonPaul Gregutt@paulgwine 2Hawk 2015 Pinot Noir (Rogue Valley)Pinot Noir2Hawk
4151241511ItalyThis opens with sun-baked soil, mocha, prune and leafy underbrush aromas. The densely concentrated palate offers black cherry jam, espresso and vanilla flavors, with scorching alcohol and assertive tannins that leave an astringent finish.8750TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeAgostina Pieri 2012 Brunello di MontalcinoSangioveseAgostina Pieri
4151341512USThis is a light easy-drinking style that fills the quaffable white wine bill quite nicely. It's lemony and tart, with a slice of orange peel for extra interest.Estate8716OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Apolloni 2015 Estate Pinot Grigio (Willamette Valley)Pinot GrigioApolloni
4151441513ItalyDark-skinned berry and baking spice aromas lead the nose. The easygoing palate offers juicy black cherry and mocha flavors with a touch of white pepper. Dusty tannins leave a drying finish. Drink through 2021.8745TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeBonacchi 2012 Brunello di MontalcinoSangioveseBonacchi
4151541514ItalyThis opens with subdued black-skinned fruit and baking spice aromas. The palate is straightforward and easygoing, with black cherry, tilled soil and leather alongside flavors supported by firm tannins. Enjoy through 2021.Casalino8740TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeBonacchi 2012 Casalino (Brunello di Montalcino)SangioveseBonacchi
4151641515USThe winery notes that these vines were planted in 1983, and the wine offers generous dry extract along with dried apple fruit. It's lightly tawny in color, with sappy acids. Best to drink up in 2017.Dry8716OregonElkton OregonSouthern OregonPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Bradley 2015 Dry Riesling (Elkton Oregon)RieslingBradley
4151741516USFresh blueberry, burned caramel, black licorice and sage scents show on the nose of this bottling of a variety that doesn't often get its own stage. The tannins are light but ever-present, framing black plum, elderberry, thyme and peppercorn flavors. It's not as rich or dense as similar wines but is nevertheless a nice sipper.8722CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannBroken Earth 2011 Petit Verdot (Paso Robles)Petit VerdotBroken Earth
4151841517SpainWhite-flower aromas are a touch yeasty, like animal crackers. This feels plump but maintains a sense of freshness. Citrus and nectarine flavors are generic but good, while this is lasting on the finish, with notes of grape-skin extract and pyrazines.8712Northern SpainRuedaMichael Schachner@wineschachMontespina 2016 Sauvignon (Rueda)SauvignonMontespina
4151941518USThe so-called Northern Whites are Gewürztraminer, Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Gris and Riesling. They make a comfortable blend, with floral aromas and plump peach and apple fruit. Though finished dry, it has appealing fruit sweetness.Borealis The Northern Whites8716OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Montinore 2015 Borealis The Northern Whites White (Willamette Valley)White BlendMontinore
4152041519ItalyThis has mocha, game and black-skinned berry aromas. The dense palate evokes cured meat, espresso and prune, framed by grainy, mouth puckering tannins. Drink through 2021.8742TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefePodere La Vigna 2012 Brunello di MontalcinoSangiovesePodere La Vigna

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