Wine Reviews


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4423744236PortugalAn impressive, serious wine that's only produced in top vintages. It's elegant and complex, a powerful wine with its dark tannins, licorice and black plum flavors. Concentrated and intense, it's worth aging for at least four years.Quinta do Cardo Grande Escolha9355Beira InteriorRoger Voss@vossrogerCompanhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta do Cardo Grande Escolha Red (Beira Interior)Portuguese RedCompanhia das Quintas
4423844237USFlashy and delicious, this just blows your mind. It's like the essence of the ripest, purest blackberries, with a note of crème de cassis and the sweet appeal of melted dark chocolate. It's a soft wine, but grippy in tannins, which gives it good structure. Your best bet may be to drink it over the next six years.Moose Valley Vineyard93135CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaD.R. Stephens 2009 Moose Valley Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonD.R. Stephens
4423944238USWith waves of raspberry, cherry, honeyed cream, cinnamon and caramelized oak flavors, this defines the word delicious. The richness is balanced by crisp acidity and delicate tannins. Just superb to drink now; try pairing it with lamb that's been salted and peppered, seasoned with a hint of rosemary.Starr Ridge Vineyard9345CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaDavis Family 2009 Starr Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirDavis Family
4424044239USAnother great Anderson Valley Pinot from Drew, made using fruit from a vineyard in Philo—the “deep end” or coolest section of the valley. While you won't find obnoxious acidity despite the officially high reading, the wine does have cool-climate notes of mushrooms, pine needles and cola, in addition to classic fruit flavors of raspberries and cherries. It's very fine, dry and complex; enjoy now or cellar for 6–8 years.Morning Dew Vineyard9348CaliforniaAnderson ValleyDrew 2010 Morning Dew Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley)Pinot NoirDrew
4424144240ItalyFrom Antinori's Castello della Sala estate, this landmark white helped to shine the spotlight on Umbria's untapped enological potential. A blend of Chardonnay and Grechetto, this is smooth, creamy, complex and long lasting. It offers a beautiful bouquet of vanilla, apricot, exotic fruit and honey, with a subtle touch of exotic spice.Cervaro della Sala93Central ItalyUmbriaMarchesi Antinori 2010 Cervaro della Sala White (Umbria)White BlendMarchesi Antinori
4424244241PortugalA vineyard selection is used to make this powerful, super ripe wine. With its opulent flavors, it is as densely packed with fruit as it is with tannins. Balanced and gorgeous, this is ready to drink now, yet it will age over several years.Quinta da Fronteira Grande Escolha9360DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerCompanhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta da Fronteira Grande Escolha Red (Douro)Portuguese RedCompanhia das Quintas
4424344242USThis is by far the most expensive of Duckhorn's new releases, but it's not the best to drink now. Based on Cabernet Sauvignon, it's easy to imagine the winemaker singling out the most tannic and concentrated lots, but what you get is, simply, a very tannic wine. There's a gigantic core of blackberry and black currant fruit, but it's hard to appreciate because of the astringency. The suggestion is longterm aging, but there can be no guarantees.The Discussion Estate Grown93125CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaDuckhorn 2008 The Discussion Estate Grown Red (Napa Valley)Bordeaux-style Red BlendDuckhorn
4422144220FranceProduced from organically grown grapes, this razor-sharp wine is fresh with caramel and red berry flavors. It's a lively wine enhanced by a zingy orange zest character. Drink now, although the wine will be better at the end of 2015.87ProvenceCôtes de ProvenceRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine d'Eole 2014 Rosé (Côtes de Provence)RoséDomaine d'Eole
4424444243PortugalThis is powerfully impressive, with its firm structure giving great depth to the rich black-cherry and plum fruits. Dense and tannic, it needs to age for at least four years.Reserva Old Vines9340DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerDuorum 2009 Reserva Old Vines Red (Douro)Portuguese RedDuorum
4422244221FranceDelicious and tangy, this wine is tensely textured. With its pale orange-pink color it is fruity and packed with acidity and red currants, finished with a twist of spice.Cuvée Paparazzi8730ProvenceCôtes de ProvenceRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Sainte-Marie 2014 Cuvée Paparazzi Rosé (Côtes de Provence)RoséDomaine Sainte-Marie
4422344222FranceSoft and rounded, this is a warm, ripe wine. With its yellow fruits and light texture, it's fruity, already open for drinking. Crisp lemon gives an appealing edge to the bright aftertaste.8724BurgundyChablisRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Vrignaud 2013 ChablisChardonnayDomaine Vrignaud
4422444223FranceFrom a vineyard just at the edge of the Bandol appellation, this fresh and fruity wine has a lively, light touch that contrasts with its richer texture. The aftertaste, packed with acidity and orange freshness, is delicious.Bélouvé87ProvenceBandolRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaines Bunan 2014 Bélouvé Rosé (Bandol)RoséDomaines Bunan
4422544224ItalyAromas of plum, toasted oak, cedar and espresso lead the nose. The palate delivers black cherry, roasted coffee bean, licorice and clove alongside a tannic backbone. Drink through 2017.Le Sentinelle Riserva8720TuscanyMorellino di ScansanoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeFattoria Mantellassi 2010 Le Sentinelle Riserva (Morellino di Scansano)Red BlendFattoria Mantellassi
4422644225ItalyThe 2007 vintage was beautiful in Umbria, and this proves to be a stand out wine with enormous power, personality and depth. It delivers gorgeous intensity with pulses of black cherry, chocolate fudge, spice, leather and pipe tobacco. The finish is soft and rich.Collepiano9360Central ItalySagrantino di MontefalcoArnaldo Caprai 2007 Collepiano (Sagrantino di Montefalco)SagrantinoArnaldo Caprai
4422744226USThis vineyard has been source to some of Fogarty's greatest Chardonnays, and this 2009 bottling continues the tradition of excellence. It's bone dry and tart in acidity, with smoky oak and lees influences. But the real star of the wine is the fruit; the flavors of lemon and lime custard, papaya, guava and nectarine are delicious.Damiana Vineyard Estate Grown9350CaliforniaSanta Cruz MountainsCentral CoastThomas Fogarty 2009 Damiana Vineyard Estate Grown Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains)ChardonnayThomas Fogarty
4422844227USThe closest thing in California you can get to a great French Chablis, this is absolutely dry, high in acidity and streamlined. It offers tantalizing citrus rind and peach fruit flavors, with a savory taste of cold minerals. Fans of rich, buttery Chardonnay will find it lean, but if you have a cellar, age it for six years and see how it evolves.Portola Springs Vineyard Estate Grown9350CaliforniaSanta Cruz MountainsCentral CoastThomas Fogarty 2009 Portola Springs Vineyard Estate Grown Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains)ChardonnayThomas Fogarty
4422944228USThere's something about this wine that strongly suggests it will improve in the cellar after a good bit of aging. As it is, it's dry, smooth, tannic and intense, with concentrated blackberry and black currant flavors, and a buttered toast note from aging in oak. It's completely delicious, but if you can keep from popping the cork, it should reward after 2015.Extended Elevage9350CaliforniaHowell MountainNapaTopel 2007 Extended Elevage Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain)Cabernet SauvignonTopel
4423044229USIs it just a simple, delicious drink-me-now Pinot? Or is it actually complex and worthy of pairing with the best foods? It's both. Front-loaded with raspberry purée, smoked butter and oak flavors, it has subtle layers of mushroom and dried pine that lift it into an ethereal place. Who cares if it will age? It's drop-dead gorgeous now. Char-broiled salmon could be your best pairing.La Brisa9340CaliforniaSonoma CountySonomaWalt 2010 La Brisa Pinot Noir (Sonoma County)Pinot NoirWalt
4423144230FranceOpen and primal on nose, this has notes of game, roasted meat, lead pencil, green bell pepper and blackberry. It offers succulent fruit on the midpalate, accompanied by generous viscosity and oak. The wine sits broadly across the palate with significant heft, chewy tannins and moderate acidity. The harmony of flavors and structure lingers onto the lengthy finish.9345Languedoc-RoussillonCoteaux du LanguedocPrieuré St. Jean de Bébian 2008 Red (Coteaux du Languedoc)Rhône-style Red BlendPrieuré St. Jean de Bébian
4423244231FranceMade from grape must that is heated before fermentation, this is powerful and concentrated, with a rich and very dense character. Prune, dried fruit and fresh plum notes combine with an intense background of acidity. Age for at least five years.Clos Triguedina The New Black Wine9350Southwest FranceCahorsRoger Voss@vossrogerJean-Luc Baldès 2009 Clos Triguedina The New Black Wine Malbec (Cahors)MalbecJean-Luc Baldès
4423344232FranceA full-bodied, rich wine, with tannins either supremely smoooth or just concealed under masses of plummy fruit. Yet despite the enormous ripeness, it's not lacking nuance, boasting savory notes of espresso and leather. Drinkable now, but should age through 2023, at least.La Louvée9384Rhône ValleyCornasJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzJean-Luc Colombo 2009 La Louvée (Cornas)SyrahJean-Luc Colombo
4423444233FranceThis seems awfully civilized for Cornas, with bold, clean blueberry fruit front and center, anchored by a framework of cedar and vanilla. This full-bodied, lush, creamy expression of Northern Rhône Syrah should drink well through 2025. Imported by DHI Selections, T. Edward Wines LtdLes Barcillants9350Rhône ValleyCornasJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzLes Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Barcillants (Cornas)SyrahLes Vins de Vienne
4423544234FranceWith its massively concentrated blackberry fruit framed in ample new oak, this bears a bit of resemblance to some Australian Shirazes. It's mouthfilling but supple, with nuances of Christmas spices like cinnamon, clove and anise that linger on the long finish. Drink 2014–2023.Gambert de Loche9390Rhône ValleyHermitageJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzCave de Tain 2009 Gambert de Loche (Hermitage)SyrahCave de Tain
4423644235SpainModern and bulky, this has a lot of great things going on. It opens with aromas of mineral, graphite, sage and bold berry, with chewy, roasted black-fruit flavors. It's long, compact, chocolaty and spicy on the finish. Still not mature but it's drinkable—best from 2014 and on.Clássic9389CataloniaPrioratMichael Schachner@wineschachCims de Porrera 2005 Clássic Carignan (Priorat)CarignanCims de Porrera
4424544244PortugalAlways a powerful wine, this has the added benefit of being produced from a fine vintage, yielding a hugely dense and concentrated bottling. Power comes from the ripe blackberry and black currant fruit and from the dark, firm tannins. Age this wine at least five years.Grande Reserva9339DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerQuinta do Portal 2009 Grande Reserva Red (Douro)Portuguese RedQuinta do Portal
4424644245USAnother terrific offering from Shafer, this is a wine that seems to do well regardless of the vintage. It always shows a firm minerality and slight herbaceousness, with tropical fruit flavors and a smoky coating of fine oak. It's a shade less opulent than the 2009, making this very elegant and refined, yet still rich and complex. Don't drink it too cold—airing brings out subtle nuances.Red Shoulder Ranch9348CaliforniaCarnerosNapa-SonomaShafer 2010 Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay (Carneros)ChardonnayShafer
4424744246USA great follow-up to the winery's 2008, this continues a roll of classy Diamond Mountain-based Cabs from Wallis Family. It's dry, softly tannic and likeable for its depth of blackberry, cherry, currant and cedar flavors. This straddles the line between immediate drinkability and ageability.9365CaliforniaDiamond Mountain DistrictNapaWallis Family Estate 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain District)Cabernet SauvignonWallis Family Estate
4424844247ItalyCarpineto's Vino Nobile Riserva is almost too much of a good thing with its rich density, bold intensity and big aromas of ripe blackberry, leather, exotic spice and tobacco. It has smooth texture and polished tannins as well. Age 10 years or more.Riserva9232TuscanyVino Nobile di MontepulcianoCarpineto 2006 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano)Prugnolo GentileCarpineto
4424944248USProprietor Jon McDaniel, a sommelier, has crafted a Pinot Noir that's modest in alcohol and brisk in acidity, with an elegantly earthy touch. It's rich in cherries, pomegranates and dried herbs, a wine to savor and linger over as it warms up in the glass.Shepherd Anderson Creek Vineyard9232CaliforniaAnderson ValleyAmos Cellars 2010 Shepherd Anderson Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley)Pinot NoirAmos Cellars
4425044249USRacy and brisk, clean and tart, this shows Meyer lemon, lime, white peach, mineral and white pepper aromas. Thankfully, it's very dry in taste, with exotic tropical-fruit, cashew and white flower flavors wrapped into a creamy, smoky mouthfeel. One of the best California Chenin Blancs in recent years.Signature9230CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaChappellet 2010 Signature Chenin Blanc (Napa Valley)Chenin BlancChappellet

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