Wine Reviews


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4465844657FranceAn impressive, solidly tannic wine, this also manages to capture fresh fruits and acidity in a balanced package. The wine is firm, dark and designed for serious aging. It is packed with fruit tannins, structure and black currant fruitiness. Drink from 2022.94BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau la Gaffelière 2013 Saint-ÉmilionBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau la Gaffelière
4465944658FranceRipe and showing the typical generosity of this château, this bold, round wine is powered by rich berry and damson fruit flavors. It is juicy and perfumed, while the tannic structure and wood flavors are enveloped by the fruits. Drink from 2020.94BordeauxPauillacRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Lynch-Bages 2013 PauillacBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Lynch-Bages
4466044659FranceThis ripe and rich wine balances its wood-aging flavors with its ripe tropical fruits. Pineapple, apricots and delicious acidity are all present. It will be a rich and delicious wine, but needs time, so drink from 2020. The first harvest at this château was in 1252. The property is now owned by Bernard Magrez, a wine, art, culture and gastronomy patron.94140BordeauxPessac-LéognanRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Pape Clément 2013 Pessac-LéognanBordeaux-style White BlendChâteau Pape Clément
4466144660USA hearty addition of 19% Malbec and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon contribute to this wine's complexity and soft, round profile of hearty tannin and oak. It offers well-defined flavors of salty leather, plum and dark chocolate.Reserve9152CaliforniaSonoma ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneSt. Francis 2014 Reserve Merlot (Sonoma Valley)MerlotSt. Francis
4466244661USThis wine—the only of its kind in the state—is a blend of 70% Carignan and 30% Grenache. It brings appealing, quite pure aromas of herbs, bramble and red fruit. The flavors also bring a compelling sense of purity, with no new oak influence anywhere in sight. Put it on the dinner table to see it shine.9130WashingtonHorse Heaven HillsColumbia ValleySean P. Sullivan@wawinereportSyncline 2015 Grenache-Carignan (Horse Heaven Hills)Grenache-CarignanSyncline
4466344662USFresh and light on the nose, this rare bottling of a sparkling Albariño shows crème fraiche, wet stone and the slight tang of green-apple skin on the nose. The bubbles are moderate on the sip, where green tomato, lime rinds and Granny Smith apple combine to make a fascinating and rather pleasing sip.Paragon Vineyard Sparkling91CaliforniaEdna ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannTangent 2012 Paragon Vineyard Sparkling Albariño (Edna Valley)AlbariñoTangent
4466444663AustriaNotes of ripe, juicy mulberry and aromatic forest berries create an appealing nose. With some of that same juiciness, the palate manages to be full-fruited but utterly light. The tannins are a gossamer veil, while the midpalate offers a juicy core of freshness, darker hints of black cherry and a little smoke. This wine has poise and juiciness in equal measure.91BurgenlandAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoUmathum 2015 St. Laurent (Burgenland)St. LaurentUmathum
4466544664USHoneysuckle, wet cement and ripe nectarine show on the tightly wound and bright nose of this bottling from a winery near the Pozo Saloon in southeastern Paso. A ripping acidity starts off the sip, where bright lime blossoms, honeydew rind and light lemongrass flavors make for a very tasty wine.9120CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannVintage Cowboy 2016 Grenache Blanc (Paso Robles)Grenache BlancVintage Cowboy
4464144640FranceThis wine has considerable potential, with rich tannins and firm fruits. It is solid, very dry at this stage although this is balanced by dark plum skin and blackberry flavors. The wine will develop slowly, so don't drink before 2022. The first harvest at this estate was in 1252. The property is now owned by Bernard Magrez, a wine, art, culture and gastronomy patron.9490BordeauxPessac-LéognanRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Pape Clément 2013 Pessac-LéognanBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Pape Clément
4466644665USAged in 100% new French oak, aromas of roasted coffee bean, herb, char and dark fruit give way to lightly grainy dark-fruit flavors. The wood seems a bit primary at present but it still brings a lot of appeal. Give it some time to integrate.The V9154WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleySean P. Sullivan@wawinereportAdams Bench 2014 The V Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley (WA))Cabernet SauvignonAdams Bench
4466744666USFermented 40% whole cluster and aged in four-year-old 500L puncheons, bright aromas of fresh asparagus, herb, flower, ember and earth are followed by a blend of fruit and savory flavors. It provides an appealing texture that keeps the interest high.Stoney Vine Vineyard9150WashingtonWalla Walla Valley (WA)Columbia ValleySean P. Sullivan@wawinereportArdor 2015 Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley (WA))SyrahArdor
4466844667USThis is a strong showing for this growing region south of San Jose, which was historically home to prominent vineyards. Crushed black peppercorns, thyme and rosemary show on the nose against tart blackberry juice, with cola and a touch of blackened beef. Black currant and elderberry arise on the sip along with white-pepper spice, held together by balanced acidity and tannins. It's ripe, but far from overdone.Blessings9160CaliforniaSanta Clara ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannAver Family Vineyards 2013 Blessings Petite Sirah (Santa Clara Valley)Petite SirahAver Family Vineyards
4466944668FranceAmong top-flight Northern Rhône, this has to be considered a solid value. Hints of melon and gingery spice mark the nose, while the palate is filled out by pear and melon notes. It's full bodied and silky in texture, finishing with echoes of melon and marshmallow. Drink now.Les Meysonniers9145Rhône ValleyCrozes-HermitageJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzM. Chapoutier 2014 Les Meysonniers White (Crozes-Hermitage)Rhône-style White BlendM. Chapoutier
4467044669USThis wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (58%), Merlot (28%), Syrah (9%) and Malbec. Aromas of macerated cherries, baking spice and cranberry are followed by sweet fruit flavors. It brings a slight sense of astringency but otherwise delivers the goods.Alatus9141WashingtonWalla Walla Valley (WA)Columbia ValleySean P. Sullivan@wawinereportKontos 2013 Alatus Red (Walla Walla Valley (WA))Red BlendKontos
4464244641FranceThis wine is rich with jammy fruits and ripe acidity. Firm tannins are only just making a mark on the sweet, fleshy fruitiness. It revels in its concentrated fruit and in the dark tannins that are still at the back. This wine will certainly age, dense while always fresh and juicy at the end. Drink from 2022.94164BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Valandraud 2013 Saint-ÉmilionBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Valandraud
4464344642FranceWith a higher proportion of Merlot (92%) than usual, this is a round, ripe wine released at just 20% of normal production. The generous texture and tannins are well integrated into the rich fruit. It's juicy, broad and showing the typical acidity of the vintage. With its tannic structure, the wine will age well. Drink from 2020.94109BordeauxPomerolRoger Voss@vossrogerVieux Château Certan 2013 PomerolBordeaux-style Red BlendVieux Château Certan
4464444643USGamy, fascinating aromas of bloody beef, charred lamb chops and dank mushrooms meet with cracked black pepper and asphalt on the nose of this wine from a coastal vineyard near Cambria. Similar sensations show on the palate, including underripe boysenberry, dried lilac, lavender, black pepper, pencil lead and dry-aged meat.Estate9440CaliforniaSan Luis Obispo CountyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannStolo 2013 Estate Syrah (San Luis Obispo County)SyrahStolo
4464544644FranceStructured and dense, this wine revels in its tension and tight texture. While there are plenty of black fruits, the dry core of tannins and the rich, perfumed character show this wine's best quality. It is well balanced and ripe while guarding all the freshness of the vintage. Drink from 2022.94BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Angélus 2013 Saint-ÉmilionBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Angélus
4464644645FranceWith ripe, spicy fruit, this is a concentrated, dense wine. It has young, firm tannins that are beginning to integrate with the juicy black fruits and fine, perfumed acidity. This is a serious wine, showing how well this estate is developing even in a difficult year. Drink this from 2022.94160BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Bélair-Monange 2013 Saint-ÉmilionBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Bélair-Monange
4464744646FranceThis wine is rich while at the same time having a stalky character that gives smokiness, texture and acidity. These combine with black-currant flavors that finish the wine with great freshness. It's a light vintage for this estate, fruity and certainly for the medium-term. Drink from 2020. The estate has been in the Dillon family since 1985.94200BordeauxPessac-LéognanRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau La Mission Haut-Brion 2013 Pessac-LéognanBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau La Mission Haut-Brion
4464844647FranceIn an opulent style, this wine is full of ripe fruits and generous tannins. Juicy acidity gives it a fresh lift typical of the year, although this wine has a depth of flavor that promises well for its development. Drink from 2022.94BordeauxSaint-JulienRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Léoville Poyferré 2013 Saint-JulienBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Léoville Poyferré
4464944648AustriaA nose of pure lemon zest also has the faintest notions of juniper and bitter orange peel that seem to assert themselves more on the slender, sylph-like body of this incisive wine. That lemony purity illuminates the taut palate and highlights those spicy reaches that are merely hinted at. A subtle wine of immense charm.Loibner Smaragd9441WachauAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoEmmerich Knoll 2014 Loibner Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)RieslingEmmerich Knoll
4465044649AustriaA hint of yeasty earth still clings to the lifted, uncompromising citrus purity that rises from the glass, still as tightly closed as a leaf-bud in winter, yet holding everything in readiness to burst forth after some bottle age. The wiry, dry, straight-laced citrus thrill is already perceptible. What else will flourish is a mystery although that it will be of exquisite quality and purity is a without a doubt. Lay this treasure down and look forward to it. Drink 2018–2015.Ried Pfaffenberg Kabinett9436WachauAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoEmmerich Knoll 2014 Ried Pfaffenberg Kabinett Riesling (Wachau)RieslingEmmerich Knoll
4465144650AustriaSmoke and fruit, citrus peel and cream—what a seductive combination! This is subtly oaked Sauvignon Blanc of the finest order, from verdant Styria. The palate is taut but elastic, there is focus but also charm and whole oceans of gentle, tropical fruit with a fillip of lively citrus. It is hard not to drink this now but if you have patience, or even better, a whole case, do wait and this will flourish. Drink 2015—2020.Moarfeitl9460SüdoststeiermarkAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoNeumeister 2013 Moarfeitl Sauvignon Blanc (Südoststeiermark)Sauvignon BlancNeumeister
4465244651AustriaThe nose is not very suggestive, however, the palate comes alive and paints a vivid picture of both refreshing and mellow notes of red and black cherry. The body shows a lovely, fine-grained texture that brushes softly against the tongue to send more ripples of cinnamon-spiced cherries your way. Fresh, lively and beautifully aromatic with a mellow finish tinged with peony and rose.Holzspur9480ThermenregionAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoJohanneshof Reinisch 2013 Holzspur St. Laurent (Thermenregion)St. LaurentJohanneshof Reinisch
4465344652AustriaThis opens with smoky, almost smudgy and intriguing notes of yeast. Underneath, however, there is a wealth of green pear and lemon zest. The palate is uncommonly spicy: white pepper, fresh yeast and crushed aromatic kitchen herbs leave a lasting, salty tang that really hits you There is freshness and concentration and echoing brininess on the long finish.Spiegel Reserve9475KamptalAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoLoimer 2014 Spiegel Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal)Grüner VeltlinerLoimer
4465444653ItalyAromas of mature black-skinned fruit, baking spice, new leather, a whiff of oak and a balsamic note unfold on this powerful, concentrated red, which the winery only makes in exceptional vintages. The smooth, full-bodied palate doles out ripe black cherry, raspberry jam, sweet baking spice and licorice alongside big, rounded tannins. The juicy fruit richness seamlessly supports the hefty abv of 15%. Drink 2017–2027.Primum Riserva94Southern ItalyTaurasiKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeGuastaferro 2007 Primum Riserva (Taurasi)AglianicoGuastaferro
4465544654AustriaSome earthy spice mingles with the citrus zest that does not want to reveal itself quite yet, but there are notions of citron and grapefruit peel. There is a textured intensity at the core of this slender body, something addictive and moreish that you simply want to fathom. Light-bodied but rather seductive with an intensity that slowly creeps up on you.Hochrain Smaragd9475WachauAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoFranz Hirtzberger 2014 Hochrain Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)RieslingFranz Hirtzberger
4465644655AustriaRipe yellow pear notes signal a richness that is subsumed on the palate into a salty, zingy, lemon-zest savoriness. Sprays of white pepper flare deliciously at every turn while notes of the freshly cut peel of ripe lemons illuminate everything. A very compelling wine with lots of friendly personality. Utterly moreish.Spiegel Vincent Reserve9469KamptalAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoBründlmayer 2014 Spiegel Vincent Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal)Grüner VeltlinerBründlmayer
4465744656FranceThe tannin structure of this wine is firm and dense considering the vintage, giving impressive concentration that contrasts with the ripe black berry and plum fruits that are beginning to show through. The wine is already balanced, the hints of wood smoothing the fresh, bright black-currant flavors. Drink from 2024.94BordeauxSaint-JulienRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Ducru Beaucaillou 2013 Saint-JulienBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Ducru Beaucaillou

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