Wine Reviews


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4581945818USThe vintage was very kind to Chardonnay, and the balance shows in the fantastically ripe, exotic pineapple tart, lemondrop candy, buttered toast, sandalwood and sweet, dusty spice flavors of this immaculately dry, crisp wine. It's strong and impressive now, and not particularly subtle, but should have a narrow window of near perfection. 2011–2013.Rochioli-Allen Vineyards9441CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaGary Farrell 2007 Rochioli-Allen Vineyards Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)ChardonnayGary Farrell
4582045819USThis big, young Pinot should have been held back before release, because it's really tannic and primary now, making its future hard to evaluate. However, it seems a likely cellar candidate. It's fresh in acids and clearly has a pedigree of terroir, showing mineral-infused raspberries, cherries, rhubarbs, wild strawberries, and pomegranates, accented with rich, smoky oak. The texture is pure silk, and the finish is firmly dry. Give it until 2012, at the very least.Bill and Joan's Special Selection9475CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaW.H. Smith 2008 Bill and Joan's Special Selection Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)Pinot NoirW.H. Smith
4582145820USVery dark, dramatic, opulent, but young. Opens with brooding aromas of black currants, cassis and spices, and turns dense in tannins in the mouth. Deeply refined, concentrated, intense, bone dry. A classic Napa wine in every sense, and one in need of extended cellaring. 2012–2018. The release date is Spring 2010.Pluribus94275CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaBOND 2006 Pluribus Red (Napa Valley)Bordeaux-style Red BlendBOND
4582245821FranceLuc de Conti's quest for perfection in wood aging white wines reaches its apogee here, a pure Sauvignon Blanc. The ripe spice, quince and lemon flavors mingle together in a powerful wine that keeps surprising elegance. Age for another year for final integration.Anthologia94135Southwest FranceBergerac SecRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Tour des Gendres 2007 Anthologia Sauvignon Blanc (Bergerac Sec)Sauvignon BlancChâteau Tour des Gendres
4582345822FranceTannat at its most expressive, this wine boasts dense tannins that roll deeply around the wine. But the fruit is of such an intensity that it keeps up a fine equilibrium. It is a seamless, impressive wine, projecting its power easily.Charles de Batz9425Southwest FranceMadiranRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Berthoumieu 2007 Charles de Batz Tannat (Madiran)TannatDomaine Berthoumieu
4582445823USThe first thing you notice is the complexity of flavor, carrying waves of wild forest raspberries and cherries, framboise and other liqueury, extracted tastes, sprinkled with rose petal, Dr. Pepper cola and exotic spices, and rounded off with smoky sandalwood. Then the tannins and acids kick in, emphasizing extreme dryness. There are dozens of Pinot Noirs that are more drinkable now, but this is such an interesting interpretation that it deserves a place in your cellar. Try after 2013.Pastorale Vineyard94100CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaFreestone 2007 Pastorale Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)Pinot NoirFreestone
4582545824ArgentinaAsphalt and gaseous aromas take a while to settle, but after they do, leather and scratchy blackberry scents surface. It feels big and brawny, with max extraction. It tastes masculine but salty, with bitter chocolate and peppery accents. Bulky for $11 wine.Reserve8411Mendoza ProvinceMendozaMichael Schachner@wineschachTrivento 2011 Reserve Syrah (Mendoza)SyrahTrivento
4582645825FranceSauvignon Blanc's Burgundy enclave of Saint-Bris produces a round version of the grape, leaning towards yellow fruit flavors, with herbaceous aromas. This is fruity and can be consumed now.84BurgundySaint-BrisRoger Voss@vossrogerLa Chablisienne 2011 Saint-BrisSauvignon BlancLa Chablisienne
4582745826SpainThe bouquet is dry, briney and otherwise neutral. It feels wide and lemony, with flavors of citrus and white fruits. It remains mildly pickled on the finish.Blanco8418Northern SpainRuedaMichael Schachner@wineschachLoess 2010 Blanco Verdejo (Rueda)VerdejoLoess
4582845827FranceFresh and fruity, this has a ripe apricot character that contrasts the mineral acidity and bright fruit character. The wine dances lightly and is now ready to drink.8418BurgundyBourgogneRoger Voss@vossrogerMichel Picard 2009 BourgogneChardonnayMichel Picard
4582945828ItalyThis easy wine would pair with a roast chicken or a pork chop. The flavors are redolent of wild berry, white cherry, cola and black pepper.8413VenetoValpolicellaZeni 2010 ValpolicellaCorvina, Rondinella, MolinaraZeni
4583045829FranceRipe tropical fruits dominate this smooth wine, creating a warm, almost New World appeal. There is a toast note that balances the rich fruitiness.84BurgundyBourgogneRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine d'Ardhuy 2010 BourgogneChardonnayDomaine d'Ardhuy
4583145830USThis is a nonvintage blend of Zinfandel, Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault. Well on its way to maturity, it's an easy-drinking quaffer, with a hint of bitterness on the finish.Black Dot8420WashingtonHorse Heaven HillsColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Domaine Pouillon NV Black Dot Red (Horse Heaven Hills)Red BlendDomaine Pouillon
4583245831USSavory in style, with a dusty, chalky minerality, this dry Pinot Gris is crisp and easygoing, with a freshly pressed apple flavor that's marked by whiffs of nut skin and smoke.8420New YorkSeneca LakeFinger LakesAnna Lee C. IijimaHector Wine Company 2011 Pinot Gris (Seneca Lake)Pinot GrisHector Wine Company
4583345832SpainRubber, flower petal and candied fruit aromas comprise the unique bouquet. The palate is solid but edgy, bearing grabby tannins and heaviness, with sweet flavors of blackberry, cassis and pepper. Monotone on the finish, then bitter at the very end. This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.Marqués de Badajoz El Marqués Dulce8418Central SpainExtremaduraMichael Schachner@wineschachBodegas Medina 2007 Marqués de Badajoz El Marqués Dulce Cabernet Sauvignon (Extremadura)Cabernet SauvignonBodegas Medina
4583445833USHigh alcohol stars in this Syrah. Prickly heat dominates, giving a fiery warmth to the blackberry, cassis and grilled beef flavors.Estate8460CaliforniaChalk HillSonomaChalk Hill 2009 Estate Syrah (Chalk Hill)SyrahChalk Hill
4583545834USThis has a soft core that's framed by citrusy acids, with an oxidative apple flavor that starts out with full steam, but loses some momentum on the midpalate. Try pairing this with crab cakes with a mild celeriac remoulade.Estate Bottled Dry8416New JerseyNew JerseyUnionville 2010 Estate Bottled Dry Riesling (New Jersey)RieslingUnionville
4583645835ItalyThis opens with cherry and bitter almond aromas, offering a lean mouthfeel that simple and clean. It's the perfect partner to pepperoni pizza.8412VenetoValpolicella ClassicoGiuseppe Lonardi 2011 Valpolicella ClassicoCorvina, Rondinella, MolinaraGiuseppe Lonardi
4583745836USAn everyday Chardonay, this is seemingly sweet and fruity, with pineapple, vanilla and buttered toast flavors.Lot 118411CaliforniaCaliforniaCalifornia OtherGrayson 2011 Lot 11 Chardonnay (California)ChardonnayGrayson
4583845837USA nut skin note and a whisper of smoke add a savory element to the lemon and apple aromas. It's refreshingly light on it's feet, with a brisk, tonic mouthfeel.8418New YorkSeneca LakeFinger LakesAnna Lee C. IijimaHector Wine Company 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Seneca Lake)Sauvignon BlancHector Wine Company
4583945838South AfricaScents of cured meat and campfire take center stage on the nose, with secondary support from black plum and boysenberry aromas. A strong biltong and cardamom-spice flavor carries through onto the palate, and remains through the finish.8414Coastal RegionLauren Buzzeo@laurbuzzErnst Gouws & Co. 2010 Pinotage (Coastal Region)PinotageErnst Gouws & Co.
4584045839SpainAromas of canned peaches and apricots are about all one can pull from the bouquet. It feels solid and untamed, with juicy flavors that run straight to mango, Dole peach and sweetened papaya. It's short on character and complexity but big on sweet, sticky flavors.Naturalmente Dulce8423Central SpainLa ManchaMichael Schachner@wineschachFinca Antigua 2010 Naturalmente Dulce Moscatel (La Mancha)MoscatelFinca Antigua
4581145810USYou can quibble with the price, but there's no doubt about the quality of this Zin. It's extraordinarily deeply flavored, offering waves of wild cherries, cola, anise, molé sauce, pepper spice and sandalwood, wrapped into profoundly fine tannins, and with a long, dry finish. Drink this near-perfect Zinfandel over the next six years.Old Hill Single Vineyard9560CaliforniaSonoma ValleySonomaRavenswood 2007 Old Hill Single Vineyard Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley)ZinfandelRavenswood
4581245811ItalyWith its extraordinary texture, bright personality and complex medley of aromas, this is a lovely Merlot. The aromatic layers here include red cherry, earthy tones, exotic spice and cinnamon. The mouthfeel is smooth and gorgeous with delicious softness and opulent richness. Drink after 2015.Galatrona95120TuscanyToscanaFattoria Petrolo 2006 Galatrona Merlot (Toscana)MerlotFattoria Petrolo
4581345812USA real success story for this hot vintage. Feels gracious and generous in the mouth, offering complex, fat flavors of blackberries, cherries, raspberries, mocha and cedar that turn spicy on the finish. The tannins are elaborately ripe and fine. The well-known vineyard is on the Rutherford bench, and production was 2,300 cases. Drinkable now, and should age well for at least a decade.Sycamore Vineyard9570CaliforniaRutherfordNapaFreemark Abbey 2004 Sycamore Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford)Cabernet SauvignonFreemark Abbey
4581445813USA massively constructed Chardonnay that's opulent and concentrated and bursts in the mouth with pineapple, lemon drop candy, Asian pear and white peach flavors of enormous ripeness. The entire production of 108 cases was aged in new oak, so there's a lavish veneer of sweet, smoky buttered toast. Sur lie aging is evident in the creaminess and ever so slight sourdough tartness that adds a piquant touch. This impressive Chard is at its best now in its flashy, flamboyant youth.Pastorale Vineyard95100CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaFreestone 2007 Pastorale Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast)ChardonnayFreestone
4581545814USAmong McCrea's Rhône-inspired white wines, this is the most complete and complex. It's rich and dense, with honeycomb, lychee, lemon rind, pineapple and lots of stone—lovely and lingering. It seems to gain strength as it rolls through a sensational finish.Boushey Vineyard Sirocco Blanc9525WashingtonYakima ValleyColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine McCrea 2008 Boushey Vineyard Sirocco Blanc White (Yakima Valley)White BlendMcCrea
4581645815USA spectacular Pinot Noir, but you don't want to open it anytime soon. Shows the pedigree of this vineyard, a superbly balanced wine rich in acidity and minerals. The fruit? Black and red cherries, blackberries, cola, cocoa powder and red currants, enriched with smoky cedarwood. Beautiful, but needs time. The window is 2011–2013.Fiddlestix Vineyard9570CaliforniaSta. Rita HillsCentral CoastPaul Lato 2007 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills)Pinot NoirPaul Lato
4581745816USA fabulously rich and approachable Pinot Noir that offers everything now, yet will also age. The considerable tannins will protect it in the cellar for a good 6–8 years, but it's so fresh and vibrant in cherries, red currants and oak-inspired red licorice that it's hard not to drink it now. Hard to exaggerate the deliciousness factor.Southing9550CaliforniaSta. Rita HillsCentral CoastSea Smoke 2007 Southing Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills)Pinot NoirSea Smoke
4581845817USA powerful, compelling young Pinot Noir notable for its depth of flavor and classic structure. Floods the palate with waves of raspberries, cherries, cola, sweet pomegranates, persimmons and spices that last long and clean on the finish. For all that, the wine is thoroughly dry, with firm, fine tannins. Try to age it until at least 2011, if you can.Dutton-Thomas Road Vineyard9452CaliforniaGreen ValleySonomaDutton Estate 2008 Dutton-Thomas Road Vineyard Pinot Noir (Green Valley)Pinot NoirDutton Estate

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