Wine Reviews


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4611146110USThis bottling is a testament to how fascinating Pinot Noir can grow after just a few years in the cellar. It shows kirsch, juniper, gingerbread and chai spice on the elegant, layered nose. The palate offers a compelling curry-like spice alongside crushed kalamata olive, eucalyptus, bay leaf and cedar flavors.Miller Hill Vineyard9344CaliforniaSanta Cruz MountainsCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannSilver Mountain 2011 Miller Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains)Pinot NoirSilver Mountain
4611246111GermanyDecadent mango, yellow cherry and peach nectars abound on this forward yet nuanced wine. It's lip-smackingly honeyed but vibrantly acidic with a harmonious, slightly spicy, mineral finish. It drinks gorgeously now but should continue to improve through 2030.Kreuznacher Narrenkappe Auslese9349NaheAnna Lee C. IijimaSJ Montigny 2015 Kreuznacher Narrenkappe Auslese Riesling (Nahe)RieslingSJ Montigny
4611346112USCreamy yet not overly viscous, this wine finds a nice balance between fruit and juicy acidity, showing off well-crafted apricot, green apple and nut notes. Light bodied and totally fresh, it gains layers of citrus as it evolves in the glass.Catie's Corner9326CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneJoseph Swan Vineyards 2015 Catie's Corner Viognier (Russian River Valley)ViognierJoseph Swan Vineyards
4611446113USJim Clendenen's winery has sat in the middle of Bien Nacido for decades, so it is no wonder he nails the vineyard's expression with this bottling, beginning with flinty and woody aromas that accent an orange custard creaminess on the nose. The palate also shows cedar-like oak, followed by waves of brioche, preserved lemon and orange marmalade flavors.Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Barbara Historic Collection9330CaliforniaSanta Maria ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannAu Bon Climat 2013 Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Barbara Historic Collection Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley)ChardonnayAu Bon Climat
4611546114USA blend from Jim Clendenen's own Le Bon Climat Vineyard and the Bien Nacido Vineyard where his winery is located, this bottling shows candied red cherry, star anise, fennel and sagebrush on the earthy but fruity nose. The palate combines fresh thyme and other wild herbs with tart Montmorency cherry—bold flavors wrapped in a delicate package.La Bauge Au-dessus9335CaliforniaSanta Maria ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannAu Bon Climat 2014 La Bauge Au-dessus Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley)Pinot NoirAu Bon Climat
4611646115GermanyThis is a concentrated yet delightfully light-footed elixir of fruit and flowers. Intensely perfumed, it wafts of sweet cantaloupe, honey and pollen. The palate balances lush white peach and hibiscus nectars against a scintillating backdrop of acidity. It's persistent and steely on the finish.Scharzhofberger Spätlese9330MoselAnna Lee C. IijimaBischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2015 Scharzhofberger Spätlese Riesling (Mosel)RieslingBischöfliche Weingüter Trier
4611746116USGravelly texture supports rich yet balanced baked apple and anise flavors in this hugely appealing wine from old vines in one of the producer's estate vineyards. As it opens, more floral components come to life, recalling jasmine and apple blossom, feeling high-toned and refreshing.9327CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneGundlach Bundschu 2015 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast)ChardonnayGundlach Bundschu
4611846117USThis bottling shows deep black plum, elderberry, rose and purple flower aromas. The palate is dense, with black plum and tart cranberry enhanced by Earl Grey tea and potpourri. Thanks to a strong tannic backbone and buoyant acidity, these flavors are interesting now but will meld together more compellingly in the years to come. Drink 2019–2034.9350CaliforniaEdna ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannCenter of Effort 2014 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley)Pinot NoirCenter of Effort
4611946118USFrom the producer's best barrels and best blocks of grapes, this wine delivers goodness from start to finish. It leads with oak, honey and apple notes while its lush texture of balanced acidity and generous fruit brings along rocky minerality.Sanctuary9360CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneChasseur 2014 Sanctuary Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)ChardonnayChasseur
4612046119USMinimalist winemaker Norman Beko has been letting his vineyard do the work since the 1980s, and this is a classic result. Crushed pecan and smoked almond aromas lead the nose, with a stunning honeysuckle- and plumeria-like floral quality. The palate follows suit with satisfyingly rich flavors, but lemony acidity delivers a refreshing lift.Barrel Select93CaliforniaSanta Maria ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannCottonwood Canyon 2014 Barrel Select Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley)ChardonnayCottonwood Canyon
4612146120USJuicy cherry and cardamom flavors give this wine approachability as well as complexity, all within a smooth, fleshy texture. Full bodied and integrated, it's spicy and deliciously aromatic, with fresh garden-like accents of rose and lavender.Jane's Vineyard Clone 1149355CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneDavis Bynum 2014 Jane's Vineyard Clone 114 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirDavis Bynum
4612246121FranceYeasty funk hovers above rich beckoning peach. The dry palate then expands and comprises taut, translucent citrus, exuding a cool calm charm. This is slender and fresh and shows concentration but no heaviness. It's a wonderfully fine-boned delicate Riesling of subtle power. Impressive long and whistle-clean finish.Rosenberg9327AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Barmès-Buecher 2014 Rosenberg Riesling (Alsace)RieslingDomaine Barmès-Buecher
4612346122FranceHeady peach is joined by a tart notion of citrus foliage. This exquisite aromatic quality of the nose carries throughout the taut but generous body. Despite dryness, luscious peach and red-cheeked mirabelle plums are evoked in a very pure honest fashion. This is the bounty of 2015 displayed with a very light touch, with finesse and elegance. Drink now through 2027.Les Élements9323AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Bott-Geyl 2015 Les Élements Riesling (Alsace)RieslingDomaine Bott-Geyl
4612446123USSmooth as silk and soft as butter, this glides across the palate in a smoky, sexy and seductive manner. Butter and berry, black cherry and a finishing flourish of chocolate nibs, capped with espresso, give this a complete start-to-finish set of flavors. Drink now and over the next decade.9348OregonRibbon RidgeWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Domaine Divio 2015 Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge)Pinot NoirDomaine Divio
4612546124FranceDominated by its toasty wood flavors, this is a wine still under development. It has weight, the fruit offering great potential richness. Spice, lime fruits and a firm, steely core all promise to come together into a fine wine in five years.Champ Gain93100BurgundyPuligny-MontrachetRoger Voss@vossrogerOlivier Leflaive 2009 Champ Gain (Puligny-Montrachet)ChardonnayOlivier Leflaive
4612646125ChileOne of Chile's best wines is excellent in 2007. The bouquet is concentrated, jammy and powerful, with Graham cracker sweetness offset by earth notes and leather. Lush and deep across the palate, with classy cassis, blackberry and fudge flavors. Layered and silky on the finish. Drink now through 2014.9392Colchagua ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachEmiliana 2007 Gê Red (Colchagua Valley)Red BlendEmiliana
4612746126USA lovely bottle of Pinot Noir, dry and silky and considerably lighter in body than most. Despite the lightness of texture, the wine is powerful, with succulent raspberry, cherry, Dr. Pepper cola, anise and white pepper flavors that linger long in the finish. Should develop in the bottle for at least six years.Marimar Estate Vineyard9348CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaW.H. Smith 2009 Marimar Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)Pinot NoirW.H. Smith
4612846127USA big wine, saturated in color and tremendously extracted in fruity richness. Explodes in blackberries, cassis and sweet new oak, and the tannins are strong and refined. Not particularly drinkable now, because the parts are only clumsily melded, but seems like a serious cellar candidate. Should begin to blossom in 6–8 years and, given this wine's history, will be rocking by 2020.Backus Vineyard93250CaliforniaOakvilleNapaJoseph Phelps 2008 Backus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville)Cabernet SauvignonJoseph Phelps
4612946128USA glamorous wine, rich and complex, with lots going on. Lacks perhaps some of the depth of, say, the '03 and '04, more on a par with the 2007, but still a very fine Insignia. With rich blackberry and cassis flavors wrapped into thick tannins and fine new oak sweetness, it's nowhere ready to drink now. Give it a rest until 2015.Insignia93200CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaJoseph Phelps 2008 Insignia Red (Napa Valley)Bordeaux-style Red BlendJoseph Phelps
4613046129FranceWith less of the generosity of Meursault and more of the structure, this is a complex and concentrated wine that deserves aging. Yellow fruits and their acidity dominate what is also a toast-laden wine. It has weight, richness and potential.Genevrières92BurgundyMeursaultRoger Voss@vossrogerPierre André 2008 Genevrières (Meursault)ChardonnayPierre André
4613146130FranceWith its initial toast flavors, this is a wine that is made for aging. It has weight and opulence to go with the structure and sweet fruits. The peaches combine with citrus in a delicious counterpoint to the structure. Age for 3–4 years.Genevrières9296BurgundyMeursaultRoger Voss@vossrogerPierre André 2009 Genevrières (Meursault)ChardonnayPierre André
4613246131USA huge Pinot Noir, superripe and exotic in raspberry and cherry jam, persimmon, cola, cinnamon, clove and sandalwood flavors. Defines the Sonoma Coast, with a crisp spine of acidity providing bright structure. Bold now, all fruit and oak, but has the balance to develop bottle nuance through 2015, at the very least.Poinsett Split Rock Vineyard9248CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaCalicaro 2009 Poinsett Split Rock Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)Pinot NoirCalicaro
4613346132USFruit is the hallmark of this blend, based on Cabernet Sauvignon but with one-third Merlot. It's flamboyant in blackberries and cherries, so ripe and pure, while oak adds an equal measure of sweet toast and smoke. With firm, ripe tannins, this wine needs time in the cellar. Should begin to come into its own after 2015.Family Reserve Generations9250CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaCharles Krug 2008 Family Reserve Generations Red (Napa Valley)Bordeaux-style Red BlendCharles Krug
4613446133USExtraordinarily concentrated in blackberries, blueberries and black currants. So strongly sweet in fruit and oak, it's almost undrinkable now, tasting like a melted dessert tart. Yet the minerality, tannins and overall structural integrity strongly suggest ageability. Cellar this young wine until at least 2014.VGS9275CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaChâteau Potelle 2007 VGS Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonChâteau Potelle
4613546134PortugalA dry style of vintage, bound by its tannins, the black fruits adding an element of freshness to the rich, chunky texture. It has weight, great presence, a powerful dark wine for aging.Quinta Senhora da Ribeira Vintage9260PortRoger Voss@vossrogerDow's 2009 Quinta Senhora da Ribeira Vintage (Port)PortDow's
4613646135FranceVery mineral textured wine, speaking of limestone soil. It balances a toasty, smoky character against the ripest green and yellow fruits. The citrus lends its acidity to tighten up a finely structured, ageworthy wine.Morgeot Premier Cru9293BurgundyChassagne-MontrachetRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau de la Crée 2008 Morgeot Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet)ChardonnayChâteau de la Crée
4613746136USA big, vital Syrah, massively packed with intense blackberry fruit, in the way of Mount Veeder reds. It's distinctly Syrah-esque, with pepper and bacon flavors, and the winemaker has added a deft layer of smoky oak. Very good, but young and sweetly immature. Needs time. Give it another three years, but if you pop the cork now, decant for several hours.VGS9275CaliforniaMount VeederNapaChâteau Potelle 2009 VGS Syrah (Mount Veeder)SyrahChâteau Potelle
4613846137FranceA perfumed wine that smells and tastes mature. While it still has some sweet strawberry fruit, secondary flavors of coffee, toast and mature acidity dominate. It is not likely to improve much with further keeping, but is a delectable Pinot Noir now.Clos de Vougeot92400BurgundyClos de VougeotRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Henri Rebourseau 2000 Clos de Vougeot (Clos de Vougeot)Pinot NoirDomaine Henri Rebourseau
4613946138FranceWhile having the richness of the vintage, this wine also has all the steely minerality of Chablis. Its acidity goes in a crisp line from the yellow and white fruits to the wood. Still young, give the wine another 3–4 years. Screwcap.Les Fourchaumes Vieilles Vignes9250BurgundyChablisRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Laroche 2009 Les Fourchaumes Vieilles Vignes (Chablis)ChardonnayDomaine Laroche
4614046139FranceA young wine, its fruit only just settling with the fine acidity and intense texture. The potential is all there, from the wood-aged character to the freshest acidity to the rich peach and green plum flavors. The texture gives the wine a final tang. Screwcap.Les Vaudevey9240BurgundyChablisRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Laroche 2009 Les Vaudevey (Chablis)ChardonnayDomaine Laroche

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