Wine Reviews


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4791147910USA potpourri of exotic scents and flavors, this vineyard selection opens with scents of rose, raspberry, lavender and tea. The palate is generous and complex, mixing in nutmeg, chocolate, star anise and cola. Although it promises many years of life ahead, it's already too good to resist.Aurora Vineyard95100OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Ponzi 2012 Aurora Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirPonzi
4791247911USEvelyn's is the winery's reserve bottling. From first sniff to last sip it's a magical wine, conveying the richness and complexity that Biodynamic farming can convey. Cherries, cut tobacco, iron filings and dark chocolate flavors swirl together in a lush tapestry. The texture, tension and balance are superb, and time spent in 50% new French oak puts a wisp of smoke through the engaging finish.Evelyn's9568OregonRibbon RidgeWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Brick House 2012 Evelyn's Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge)Pinot NoirBrick House
4791347912ItalyBlue flower, moist soil, leather, game, ripe dark berry and graphite are just some of the aromas of this powerfully structured, delicious wine. The palate delivers layers of juicy black cherry, blackberry, raspberry, white pepper and clove alongside youthfully assertive but ripe tannins. Drink 2017–2030.Sacrantino9560Central ItalyMontefalco SagrantinoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeCantina Fratelli Pardi 2010 Sacrantino (Montefalco Sagrantino)SagrantinoCantina Fratelli Pardi
4791447913ItalySmooth and velvety, this powerfully structured wine opens with earthy aromas of tilled soil, mature plum, game, leather and just a hint of barnyard. The ripe palate doles out layers juicy blackberry, black cherry, tobacco, nutmeg and ground black pepper alongside big, velvety tannins. Hold for complexity. Drink 2018–2035.9550Central ItalyMontefalco SagrantinoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeMilziade Antano 2010 Montefalco SagrantinoSagrantinoMilziade Antano
4791547914USThis vineyard was planted specifically for the No Girls project. The wine is fresh, fragrant and intensely floral, with a mix of rosewater and orange zest. Elegant, with a delicate, lacy texture, the flavors are savory and salty, braced with stiff, lightly peppery tannins. Notes of funk and mushroom come into play as it finishes gracefully and with unexpected length.La Paciencia Vineyard9565OregonWalla Walla Valley (OR)Oregon OtherPaul Gregutt@paulgwine No Girls 2011 La Paciencia Vineyard Grenache (Walla Walla Valley (OR))GrenacheNo Girls
4791647915USA star even among a stellar group of 2012 releases from Elk Cove, this 20-year-old vineyard really delivers the goods. Time has tempered the herbal aromatics, giving this rich, ripe effort a subtle subtext of olive and sage. Black cherry, dark chocolate and a dusty, mocha finish with a hint of habanero pepper bring this wine together beautifully. Delicious already, it should continue to improve 2025–2030.Roosevelt9585OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Elk Cove 2012 Roosevelt Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirElk Cove
4791747916USThough very pale in the glass, this wine holds no shortage of interest. Honey and roasted marcona almonds consume the nose, and the palate blends bright citrus, lemon curd and cinnamon, all propped up by a perfect, judicious use of oak.Oliver's Proprietor Grown9536CaliforniaEdna ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannTalley 2012 Oliver's Proprietor Grown Chardonnay (Edna Valley)ChardonnayTalley
4791847917USSourced from the original 1965 planting, this wine demands your patience and full attention. Displaying a deep straw, slightly tawny hue, it opens with lightly spicy, nuanced threads of mint, hay, olive oil, green banana and almond. It seems almost ephemeral, but with some hours of breathing time it opens into a full-bodied, dense and compelling wine, with the extra dimensions that old vines can provide. Drink now through 2030.Original Vines Reserve9545OregonDundee HillsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine The Eyrie Vineyards 2012 Original Vines Reserve Chardonnay (Dundee Hills)ChardonnayThe Eyrie Vineyards
4793547934ItalyLivio Felluga adds a creamy, sophisticated edge to its Pinot Grigio that elevates the wine in terms of food pairing opportunities. Instead of appetizers and easy finger foods, this wine can stand up to fish, white meat and pasta. It has fragrant notes of creamy peach, citrus, white stone and pineapple followed by a shapely, dense structure.8823Northeastern ItalyColli Orientali del FriuliLivio Felluga 2007 Pinot Grigio (Colli Orientali del Friuli)Pinot GrigioLivio Felluga
4791947918USDark, concentrated and grippy, this is a sizable Pinot from a cool, coveted vineyard. Juicy blue and blackberry fruit dominate on the nose and palate, surrounded by exotic cedar, clove, oak and toffee, a swipe of vanilla lurking behind the front flavors. The big tannins will appreciate time in the cellar, through 2022–2024.Gap's Crown Vineyard9565CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneTrombetta 2012 Gap's Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)Pinot NoirTrombetta
4792047919USOf the four De Coelo Pinot Noirs sourced from this one special site, Arbore Sacra is the most earthy, savory and viscous. Grapes come from the Calera clone, beautifully structured and shyly subtle. In this graceful wine, expect nuanced layers of Asian spice and blackberry, with finely honed tannins and a lingering, spicy finish.Arbore Sacra9475CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneDe Coelo 2012 Arbore Sacra Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)Pinot NoirDe Coelo
4792147920USDeep, dark and instantly compelling, this powerful wine features black cherry and cassis fruit adorned with clove, citrus, cardamom, nougat and mocha. The chewy tannins and overall tightness suggest that further cellaring will continue to improve it. Drink 2016 through 2030.Abetina 294100OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Ponzi 2012 Abetina 2 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirPonzi
4792247921SpainEverything about this wine is singing in harmony. The nose is fresh and pure, with raspberry, plum, spice and youthful rubbery aromas. The palate is elegant and impeccably balanced, while flavors of vanilla and coconut announce ample oak, with toasty, peppery plum and raspberry flavors waiting in the wings. Power, precision and elegance are draped all over the finish. Best from 2017 through 2025.M2 de Matallana9445Northern SpainRibera del DueroMichael Schachner@wineschachTelmo Rodríguez 2010 M2 de Matallana (Ribera del Duero)Tempranillo BlendTelmo Rodríguez
4792347922GermanyThis delivers a spectacular explosion of fruity, floral flavors. Notes of apricot preserve and honeysuckle are exuberantly aromatic, balanced with a delicate palate of sweet, sugared peach and tangerine. It's sprightly and lean, yet elegantly lingering on the finish.Goldkap Eiswein94115MoselAnna Lee C. IijimaDr. Hermann 2012 Goldkap Eiswein Riesling (Mosel)RieslingDr. Hermann
4792447923ItalyHere is an expressive Chardonnay from the far north of Italy that delivers beauty and harmony in the form of mature peach, honey roasted almond, butterscotch and sweet lemon zest. The wine boasts thick, creamy density and lively fruit flavors on the long finish.Cardellino8820Northeastern ItalyAlto AdigeElena Walch 2007 Cardellino Chardonnay (Alto Adige)ChardonnayElena Walch
4792547924ItalyThis is a bold bruiser of a wine with thick concentration and dense extraction of flavors and aromas. You'll recognize tones of spice, black cherry, blueberry, red currants, tealeaf and tobacco. The wine's texture is equally dense although it ends on a fresh, crisp note.88TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoFontevecchia 2003 Brunello di MontalcinoSangiovese GrossoFontevecchia
4792647925ItalyGirlan is a quality-minded producer from the extreme north of Italy with a beautifully crafted and intense expression of Chardonnay. You'll get aromas of peach blossom, freshly churned butter and almond nut over a smooth and supple mouthfeel.Select Art8833Northeastern ItalyAlto AdigeGirlan 2006 Select Art Chardonnay (Alto Adige)ChardonnayGirlan
4792747926AustriaThe dryness of botrytis dominates this wine. There is a sweet undercurrent, but the main feature is of baked apple skins, tight structure and spice. It does need aging for all these features to come together.Ruster Ausbruch8837BurgenlandRoger Voss@vossrogerGunter Triebaumer 2006 Ruster Ausbruch Sauvignon Blanc (Burgenland)Sauvignon BlancGunter Triebaumer
4792847927USDark, tannic and dense, this is a classic Petite Sirah. In its youth it's strongly flavored in black currants and chocolate, and will be fine with richly sauced barbecue. But it will age for many, many years, gradually softening.8826CaliforniaCalaveras CountySierra FoothillsHatcher 2006 Petite Sirah (Calaveras County)Petite SirahHatcher
4792947928ItalyNero d'Avola, Cabernet and Merlot are blended to produce a bold, oak-driven wine with smoky tones of campfire and coal. There are blackberries, prunes and plums in there as well and the wine has a chewy, succulent feel.Montenero8848Sicily & SardiniaSiciliaAbbazia Santa Anastasia 2005 Montenero Red (Sicilia)Red BlendAbbazia Santa Anastasia
4793047929ItalyThis is a bright expression of Nero d'Avola with youthful fruit flavors and pretty aromas of pistachio nut and almond. The wine is polished and clean with bright acidity on the close.3 Carati8850Sicily & SardiniaSiciliaAvide 2004 3 Carati Nero d'Avola (Sicilia)Nero d'AvolaAvide
4793647935ItalyMolamatta is a very successful blend of some of Friuli's best varieties— Friulano, Ribolla Gialla and Pinot Bianco—that earns high praise for both aroma and mouthfeel. Citrus, pear, peach and almond nut notes are backed by a dense, creamy texture.Molamatta8821Northeastern ItalyCollioMarco Felluga 2007 Molamatta White (Collio)White BlendMarco Felluga
4793747936USThis mongrel is 50% Red Mountain Syrah, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot. Tight and tart, it has a slightly reduced, rubber ball character, and needs plenty of breathing time. Fruit flavors are raspberry and cassis, accented with sharp acids and stiff tannins.The Dissident8828WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Mark Ryan 2006 The Dissident Red (Columbia Valley (WA))Red BlendMark Ryan
4793847937USAs sweet as honey, with Lifesaver candy pineapple, golden apricot preserves, Meyer lemon custard pie and Asian spice flavors. Calls for very rich fare, such as scallops sautéed in butter, served with a creamy risotto.8822CaliforniaSonoma CountySonomaWellington 2007 Roussanne (Sonoma County)RoussanneWellington
4793947938USThis new Ausonius features a blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Cabernet Franc and 8% Malbec. At first it's rich, smoky, chocolaty and supple; moving toward a Napa style in its breadth and ripeness, but leavening that with Washington's bright acids. Pleasing hints of spice and herb are dappled in, and the wine is almost peppery as it weaves across the palate. The finish is clean and simple, leaving you wishing for just a bit more complexity.Ausonius8835WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Woodinville Wine Cellars 2005 Ausonius Red (Columbia Valley (WA))Red BlendWoodinville Wine Cellars
4794047939ItalyMorellino di Scansano is an up-and-coming red wine from Southern Tuscany that is easy and fun to drink. This ruby-colored expression delivers fresh tones of cherry and red currants and it has a soothing, soft texture in the mouth thanks to one year of oak aging.Riserva8824TuscanyMorellino di ScansanoVal delle Rose 2005 Riserva (Morellino di Scansano)SangioveseVal delle Rose
4793147930USA rare gem, this Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend is sourced entirely from Red Mountain's Klipsun vineyard. Aged for 10 months in one-year-old French oak, it's a spicy wine with aromatics and flavors of botanicals such as mint and quinine. Fruit is sharp with flavors of grapefruit and white peach, and hints of toast and cracker.Mith8822WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Balboa 2007 Mith White (Columbia Valley (WA))White BlendBalboa
4793247931GreeceThis lively white, made with the native grape Assyrtiko, starts with a big, citrusy nose, followed by more complex flavors of citrus, flowers and spice. Rich and warm, the wine still has an underbelly of dancing acidity that keeps it food friendly. An elegant wine with a lingering floral finish.8820SantoriniSusan Kostrzewa@suskostrzewaBoutari 2007 Assyrtico (Santorini)AssyrticoBoutari
4793347932ItalyPowerful and intense in delivery, this Pecorino-based white delivers immediate aromas of mature fruit, maple syrup and chestnut honey. It has firm texture and medium density and would wash down well with white meat or pork.8855Central ItalyAbruzzoCataldi Madonna 2005 Pecorino (Abruzzo)PecorinoCataldi Madonna
4793447933USDeliciously gentle. Makes you wonder why more people don't drink Syrah. With a soft complexity, the wine houses lush flavors of cherries, plums, mocha and violets, accented with sweet, smoky oak.Hidden Hill Vineyard8832CaliforniaAlexander ValleySonomaHuntington 2005 Hidden Hill Vineyard Syrah (Alexander Valley)SyrahHuntington

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