Wine Reviews


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4890148900USThe fragrance is almost otherworldly; sweet, dense and lightly lifted. This is a sinewy wine, that begins with compact power and focused, tart red fruits—predominantly raspberry and currant. At first juicy and tart, with hours of breathing time the wine broadens out into a wider spectrum of Cabernet fruits; cassis, blackberry and black cherry.Père de Famille9755WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Betz Family 2005 Père de Famille Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley (WA))Cabernet SauvignonBetz Family
4890248901USBob Betz calls this his first-ever “reserve style” wine from Bordeaux varieties. It started with a single barrel of Red Willow Cabernet Franc and evolved into this six-barrel blend. Le Parrain opens with whiffs of smoke, gun metal and rock weaving through the dense red fruits. Pipe tobacco and licorice flavors come into play from the barrel aging. As the wine slowly opens, the flavors expand and blend, and the textural quality that Betz refers to expresses itself in a graceful, three-dimensional finish.Le Parrain Red Wine9685WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Betz Family 2005 Le Parrain Red Wine Red (Columbia Valley (WA))Red BlendBetz Family
4890348902USThis very expensive release is one of the rare examples of Chardonnay that absolutely requires bottle age. Dry and leesy now, with a mineral compactness, it shows a rich core of baked peach, spiced apple, butterscotch and smoky honey. As it warms in the glass, it develops great flavor and textural complexities. Should come into its own by 2009, and improve for many years after.Ambassador's 1953 Vineyard96180CaliforniaSonoma ValleySonomaHanzell 2005 Ambassador's 1953 Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Valley)ChardonnayHanzell
4890448903FranceBeautiful, aromatic wine, with raspberry fruit floating above the spice and toast. This is shot through with acidity and some dense tannins, but above all it is the piercing fruit that dominates. One of Jadot's signature wines, it is wonderful, with considerable aging potential.Clos Saint Jacques Premier Cru96125BurgundyGevrey-ChambertinRoger Voss@vossrogerLouis Jadot 2005 Clos Saint Jacques Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin)Pinot NoirLouis Jadot
4890548904FranceDomaine de l'Arlot owns just over one acre of this grand cru vineyard in Vosne-Romanée. This 2005 shows intense, complex fruits and tannins, both finely intertwined. There is power, but the strawberry flavors are just as important, flattering the palate.95BurgundyRomanée-St.-VivantRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine de l'Arlot 2005 Romanée-St.-VivantPinot NoirDomaine de l'Arlot
4890648905SpainDalmau, the ultrapremium Tempranillo blend from Marques de Murrieta, is 65% pricier in 2004 than '03. And that might be justified. This is a spectacular wine in every sense of the word. The nose blends alluring scents of smoke, asphalt, rubber and black fruit. The palate is saturated and smooth, with black cherry and blackberry flavors leading the way. Coffee, berry pie and mocha help the finish hold court and then fade away. Already good but best from 2010–2020.Dalmau95165Northern SpainRiojaMichael Schachner@wineschachMarqués de Murrieta 2004 Dalmau (Rioja)Tempranillo BlendMarqués de Murrieta
4890748906USThis is the smoothest, most polished of Standish's quartet of new Pinots. It's a best-of-barrels selection, and really impressive in cherry, currant, licorice, cola and Provençal herbs. With near-perfect balance, it exemplifies Anderson Valley and also is a standout in the great 2005 vintage. It was crafted, under Standish's “guest winemaker” program, by Zach Rasmussen, of Goldeneye.Mayflower9580CaliforniaAnderson ValleyStandish 2005 Mayflower Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley)Pinot NoirStandish
4890848907USIf you know Goldeneye's new Gowen Creek bottling, this is a near identical Pinot, and little wonder, for the vineyards are right next to each other. This wine dazzles with exotic, feral notes of wild blackberries and blueberries, and forest scents of pine needle, roasted mushroom, grilled meat, chocolate, anise, cinnamon, nutmeg and coriander. New oak adds even richer nuances of smoky caramel and vanilla to this compelling wine.Savoy Vineyard9555CaliforniaAnderson ValleyBreggo 2006 Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley)Pinot NoirBreggo
4890948908FranceOpulent yet so elegant, this wine has already achieved great balance. It comes from the soft richness of the generous fruit, the spice from both the wood and the fruit, and the roundness of the texture, which envelops you in its warmth and ripeness. And, at the end, just to give a great lift, along comes the acidity.Les Baudes Premier Cru9590BurgundyChambolle-MusignyRoger Voss@vossrogerLouis Jadot 2005 Les Baudes Premier Cru (Chambolle-Musigny)Pinot NoirLouis Jadot
4891048909SpainFor the second vintage in a row, Vall Llach's signature red blend is out on its own. The bouquet is round and deep, with alluring cola, mint and blackberry aromas. The palate is alive but still quite dark, with huge black plum and blackberry flavors. Super long on the finish, with a subtle streak of vanilla and coconut. Delicious but also deft. 450 cases produced.9585CataloniaPrioratMichael Schachner@wineschachVall Llach 2005 Red (Priorat)Red BlendVall Llach
4891148910SpainYear in and year out, this around where this wine shakes out. The nose is clean and nice for an under-$10 white, with minerality and fresh white-fruit aromas. A light, focused palate offers up green melon, apple, herb and white pepper flavors in front of a crisp finish. This varietal Viura outperforms its price.879Northern SpainRiojaMichael Schachner@wineschachMarqués de Cáceres 2012 Viura (Rioja)ViuraMarqués de Cáceres
4891248911USA very good Merlot, representing a huge increase in quality over the 2008, and a return to the charms of the 2007. It's ripe and tasty in fruit, currants and sweet oak, and earns extra points for the fine structure. Ready now.8738CaliforniaOak Knoll DistrictNapaMaterra Cunat Family Vineyards 2009 Merlot (Oak Knoll District)MerlotMaterra Cunat Family Vineyards
4891348912USThis is just the second varietal bottling of Marsanne—single vineyard at that—from McCrea. Firm and fleshy, with clear melon flavors, it shows a dash of cinnamon along the way. The finish brings on graham cracker accents, though only neutral oak was used.Boushey Vineyard8725WashingtonYakima ValleyColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine McCrea Cellars 2010 Boushey Vineyard Marsanne (Yakima Valley)MarsanneMcCrea Cellars
4891448913USThis wine gives plenty of sheer Zinny delight. The ripe, lush raspberry and blackberry flavors have a briary edge, with notes of wild nettles that give it a wildland personality. While the alcohol is high, it's in keeping with the wine's overall structure. Drink now with a great barbecued steak.Gesture8725CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastJ. Lohr 2010 Gesture Zinfandel (Paso Robles)ZinfandelJ. Lohr
4891548914ItalyThis is a thick and sticky white wine from Northern Italy that shows a fragrant bouquet of exotic fruit and white flower backed by a waxy, thick texture in the mouth. That cool climate, mountain acidity helps to keep the palate refreshed.8722Northeastern ItalyAlto AdigeJosef Weger 2011 Gewürztraminer (Alto Adige)GewürztraminerJosef Weger
4891648915USNo shrinking violet at 15.9% abv, La Folia's Zin is exuberant in juicy red and black fruit, cinnamon spice and a taste of cola. Inviting, full and round with a softness in the mouth, the finish slips away ever so quickly. It's otherwise a swell example of Sierra Foothills fruit.8730CaliforniaSierra FoothillsSierra FoothillsVirginie Boone@vbooneLa Folia Winery 2010 Zinfandel (Sierra Foothills)ZinfandelLa Folia Winery
4891748916ChileAlthough the bouquet is a touch herbal and raspy, this Cab offers good balance and body in the mouth along with plum, cherry, cassis and spice in moderate measures. A bright, fresh-feeling finish ensures a positive lasting impression.Block Selection Reserve Block N. 68712Colchagua ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachLa Playa 2010 Block Selection Reserve Block N. 6 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley)Cabernet SauvignonLa Playa
4891848917ChileWith dark-berry aromas and pointed toughness, this is a solid wine with creamy oak, some stickiness and a lactic element. Flavors of herbal dark fruits and minty oak lead to a dry, minty, hot and spicy finish with more than enough residual oak flavor.Casa Grand Selection8712Rapel ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachLapostolle 2011 Casa Grand Selection Merlot (Rapel Valley)MerlotLapostolle
4891948918USThis Pinot is lovely—it's dry, silky and moderate in alcohol, yet rich in fruit, with raspberry and cherry jam, tobacco and oak flavors. Give it some time in the decanter and drink now.Lovely Rita8732CaliforniaSta. Rita HillsCentral CoastLongoria 2011 Lovely Rita Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills)Pinot NoirLongoria
4892048919ChileMatetic makes a clean, tropical, racy style of Gewürz that's a lot like Torrontés from Argentina. The palate is fresh with kick, while flavors of lemon-lime, lychee and passion fruit are true to the grape and set up a medium-length finish with exotic spice notes. This is perfect for Asian foods.Corralillo8720San AntonioMichael Schachner@wineschachMatetic 2012 Corralillo Gewurztraminer (San Antonio)GewürztraminerMatetic
4892148920ChileBaked apple, pulpy citrus and oak aromas create a soft nose. In the mouth, this feels wide and resiny, and the flavors match that lead: oak, resin, vanilla, tropical fruit and citrus are all registering. On the finish, this is oaky and resiny.Alpha8725Casablanca ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachMontes 2011 Alpha Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley)ChardonnayMontes
4892248921USA lush, crisp Chardonnay from a cool-ish vintage that tastes most specifically of green apple with a tropical twist on the finish.Small Lot Blend8713CaliforniaMendocino CountyVirginie Boone@vbooneParducci 2011 Small Lot Blend Chardonnay (Mendocino County)ChardonnayParducci
4892348922SpainChunky, ripe black-fruit aromas come with violet accents. The mouthfeel is good but gritty, with hard tannins and a lot of oak that creates a buttery topping to plum, cassis and molasses flavors. This ripe wine finishes stable but quick, with some chocolate flavor but not much else.Crianza8735Northern SpainRibera del DueroMichael Schachner@wineschachPortia 2009 Crianza (Ribera del Duero)TempranilloPortia
4892448923ItalyAged 18 months in barrique, Oinos opens with a crisp and snappy quality of berry fruit followed by clean lines, good acidity and light spice shadings. Bitter chocolate and cherry liqueur appear on the close.Oinos8730Central ItalyMontepulciano d'Abruzzo Colline TeramaneSan Lorenzo 2009 Oinos (Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Colline Teramane)MontepulcianoSan Lorenzo
4892548924ChileWelcoming but basic cassis and berry aromas carrry a leathery accent and a hint of rubber. The palate is mildly creamy and comfortable, with cassis, cherry and plum flavors but little beyond that. A clean finish cements this well-made wine's value position.Selección del Directorio Gran Reserva8710Colchagua ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachSanta Helena 2011 Selección del Directorio Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley)Cabernet SauvignonSanta Helena
4892648925AustriaStyria's trademark Sauvignon Blanc in its purest, freshest form. It has delicious acidity, pear and white peach flavors and a burst of grapefruit freshness. Drink now, or hold for a year. Screwcap.Vom Sand8719SüdsteiermarkRoger Voss@vossrogerSattlerhof 2012 Vom Sand Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteiermark)Sauvignon BlancSattlerhof
4892748926USIt's all about flashy, ripe berry jam, red currant and chocolate flavors in this softly tannic wine. Despite the impression of sweetness, the finish is dry, and a little bitter. Hard to tell if it's going anywhere. Give it some decanting and drink now.Kidd Ranch8738CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaSequum 2009 Kidd Ranch Syrah (Napa Valley)SyrahSequum
4892848927USThe pedigree of this Cabernet shows in the incredible depth of flavor and softly gentle, complex tannins. With intensely concentrated blackberry jam, cassis liqueur and oak flavors, it's distinctly Napa-esque. It is, however, compromised by sharp acidity that's noticeable throughout the palate experience.Estate Grown8790CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaSignorello 2010 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonSignorello
4892948928ItalyThis expression of Sauvignon offers very nice richness in the mouth thanks to its creamy density and medium structure. The aromas, instead, recall peach, apricot, yellow rose and honey. Pair this wine with chicken tandoori.8715Northeastern ItalyVenezia GiuliaTalis Wine 2011 Sauvignon (Venezia Giulia)SauvignonTalis Wine
4893048929ItalyThis Riserva Sangiovese from Central Italy opens with sweet notes of candied fruit and cherry followed by a light and lean feeling in the mouth. Try pairing it with a simple pizza marinara (with tomato, garlic and oregano).Petrignone Riserva8717Central ItalySangiovese di Romagna SuperioreTre Monti 2009 Petrignone Riserva (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore)SangioveseTre Monti

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