Wine Reviews


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4980349802USA lovely plum shade, this blends scents and flavors of pomegranate, cherry cola, Asian spice, black licorice and a dash of cacao. It's dense and penetrating, yet drinking well already. It spent nine months in 40% new French oak.Estate9135OregonEola-Amity HillsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Bryn Mawr Vineyards 2014 Estate Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills)Pinot NoirBryn Mawr Vineyards
4980449803AustraliaYarra Valley isn't really where you'd expect to find Marsanne, so this entirely barrel-fermented example is a treat. Only 10% new oak is used, just enough to lend a subtle note of toasted hazelnuts to the fruit, imparting silky texture and added complexity to the white peach, fig and melon flavors on the medium-bodied palate. Finishes long and citrusy.Warramunda Reprise9128VictoriaYarra ValleyJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzBen Haines 2014 Warramunda Reprise Marsanne (Yarra Valley)MarsanneBen Haines
4980549804SpainElegant spicy aromas of dried red fruits and plum are fresh and clean. A pure forward medium-bodied palate holds flavors of spiced cherry, plum and vanilla. Those flavors are repeated and unbroken on a clean lithe finish. Drink through 2022.Solar de Becquer Reserva9140Northern SpainRiojaMichael Schachner@wineschachBodegas Escudero 2010 Solar de Becquer Reserva (Rioja)Tempranillo BlendBodegas Escudero
4980649805AustraliaClassic Margaret River Cabernet, showing great balance between cedary oakiness and effusive fruitiness. Cola and plum notes give this a darker flavor spectrum than some vintages, yet the flavors remain crisp and vibrant, ending with soft tannins. Drink now–2025.9172Western AustraliaMargaret RiverJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzCape Mentelle 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River)Cabernet SauvignonCape Mentelle
4980749806AustraliaDark chocolate and cedar merge easily on the nose of this medium- to full-bodied wine. Those dark, oaky elements are balanced by tart berries on the palate, enhanced by barrel char and oodles of soft tannins on the long finish. Drink now–2025.Scotsdale9137Western AustraliaGreat SouthernJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzHoward Park 2013 Scotsdale Cabernet Sauvignon (Great Southern)Cabernet SauvignonHoward Park
4980849807USThis is the first reserve Pinot Gris from the winery—half fermented in stainless, half in barrel. The wine feels as if it's very lightly oxidized, with dusty, tawny apple flavors that recall a good hard cider. Its power is in the persistent, bone dry finish, that never quits. Drink now through 2018.Reserve9126OregonChehalem MountainsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Carabella 2014 Reserve Pinot Gris (Chehalem Mountains)Pinot GrisCarabella
4980949808FranceThe great dominance of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend has given this wine both a fine structure and crisp swathes of black-currant fruit. It is a firm wine at this stage, although the fine fruitiness will become an important part of the taste. The estate is named after one of Napoleon's generals who became King of Sweden. Drink from 2021.9140BordeauxHaut-MédocRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Bernadotte 2014 Haut-MédocBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Bernadotte
4981049809FranceThe wine has weight, tannins and a firm structure. At the same time, its ripe black fruits are developing to fill out the structure and give an impressive wine. Hints of dark chocolate go with the juicy acidity to leave a wine that has several years to develop. Drink from 2021.9130BordeauxMoulis-en-MédocRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Branas Grand Poujeaux 2014 Moulis-en-MédocBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Branas Grand Poujeaux
4980149800AustraliaThis isn't Coonawarra's most elegant wine, but it certainly doesn't lack for character or concentration. Menthol, vanilla, cedar and cassis deliver plenty of flavor in this chunky, full-bodied Cabernet. Charred, mocha-like notes emerge on the long, intense finish. Drink now–2025.91South AustraliaCoonawarraJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzBalnaves of Coonawarra 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra)Cabernet SauvignonBalnaves of Coonawarra
4980249801USThis delightful wine, principally fermented in neutral oak, and aged sur lie, offers lovely details of apple flesh and skin, white melon, a hint of daikon radish, and the pinpoint persistence that is the mark of superior winemaking. Pinot Blanc can go in various directions in Oregon, but this bright and acidic wine really shows the way to a style that is at once drinkable, complex and food friendly.9118OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Brigadoon 2015 Pinot Blanc (Willamette Valley)Pinot BlancBrigadoon
4981149810FranceOwned by the Cruse family, part of the old Bordeaux elite, the estate is in the southern Médoc. The wine, with its firm character and rounded fruit, has weight and considerable richness. It will develop into a plush full-bodied wine. Drink from 2020.9125BordeauxHaut-MédocRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau du Taillan 2014 Haut-MédocBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau du Taillan
4981249811FranceThis is a fine wood-aged blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot and Petit Verdot. It is darkly colored, dense and with great ripe tannins. One of several Bordeaux properties owned by the Thiénot family, this estate occupies a fine, gravel outcrop in the Pessac-Léognan region, just south of Bordeaux. Drink from 2024.9139BordeauxPessac-LéognanRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau la Garde 2014 Pessac-LéognanBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau la Garde
4981349812FranceRipe tropical fruits along with intense sweet lemon give this wine its fine acidity and ripe character. It is pure, clear and clean with lively acidity and a tangy zingy aftertaste that also brings in some minerality. Drink from 2018.Aigle d'Argent91BordeauxBordeaux BlancRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Mouton Rothschild 2014 Aigle d'Argent (Bordeaux Blanc)Bordeaux-style White BlendChâteau Mouton Rothschild
4981449813FranceThis a finely perfumed wine with its 32% Cabernet Franc, unusual for this estate. It gives a wine with great structure and concentration as well as layers of ripe black fruits. The wine needs to age so drink from 2023.9139BordeauxPomerolRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Nenin 2014 PomerolBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Nenin
4981549814FranceRipe Merlot gives this wine its richness and concentration. It is filled with black fruits, hints of the wood aging and with tannins cushioned by the fruit. Acidity shows strongly at the end, leaving a bright aftertaste. Drink from 2020.Le Dragon de Quintus9131BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Quintus 2014 Le Dragon de Quintus (Saint-Émilion)Bordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Quintus
4981649815FranceThe home chateau of the group of properties owned by the Guyon family, this estate has produced a solid very ageworthy wine. It has dark tannins and rich juicy black fruits. With its structure and bright berry and plum flavors, it will not be ready to drink before 2020.9135BordeauxMédocRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Rollan de By 2014 MédocBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Rollan de By
4981749816ItalyEarthy underbrush, scorched earth, leather and grilled Porcini mushroom aromas lead the nose. The brawny, vigorous palate delivers fleshy wild cherry, black raspberry, anise and vanilla flavors, while firm, chewy tannins lend structure. Drink 2020–2027.9165TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeCollemattoni 2012 Brunello di MontalcinoSangioveseCollemattoni
4981849817USThis affordable wine is a testament to skilled sourcing and blending, using choice grapes from up and down the coast. Spicy cherry, forest and black tea aromas provide plenty varietal character, while medium-bodied weight and juiciness are lifted by bright acidity.9115CaliforniaSonoma County-Monterey County-Napa CountyCalifornia OtherVirginie Boone@vbooneContour 2014 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County-Monterey County-Napa County)Pinot NoirContour
4981949818USThis reserved and classically styled wine has subtle fig and marzipan aromas, is dry on the palate, with a bundle of tight fruit and spice flavors wound up in fresh acidity that emerge slowly with each sip and on the finish. It is a serious wine and a good candidate to age until 2018 or longer.Dach Vineyard9155CaliforniaAnderson ValleyJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsDomaine Anderson 2013 Dach Vineyard Chardonnay (Anderson Valley)ChardonnayDomaine Anderson
4982049819FranceMaturity gives a bruised apple aroma to the generous mellowness of ripe pear on the nose. The palate is more taut than the nose leads you to expect, but there is concentration and richness and more bruised apple skin texture. Fruit, evolved flavors and freshness make for an intriguing wine. Drink soon.Frankstein Grand Cru9125AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Mersiol 2011 Frankstein Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace)Pinot GrisDomaine Mersiol
4982149820FranceSumptuous peach comes across as almost overripe. There certainly is opulence on the rich almost oily palate. Flavors are very concentrated and have edges of caramel and barley sugar, but these are balanced by freshness and a pithy welcomed bitterness. This finishes medium sweet with lingering flavors of both zest and peach.Frankstein Grand Cru9126AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Mersiol 2012 Frankstein Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace)GewürztraminerDomaine Mersiol
4982249821FranceA touch of fresh bay leaf, wet earth and musk rose combine to make a very enticing intriguing nose. The resolutely dry palate carries these lovely aromatics with zesty freshness and lovely zesty texture that is reminiscent of grapefruit peel. It is its abiding freshness that makes this stand out.Turckheim9126AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Zind-Humbrecht 2015 Turckheim Muscat (Alsace)MuscatDomaine Zind-Humbrecht
4982349822USFrom two blocks of a vineyard above Freestone that's strongly influenced by the ocean, this wine is marked by leathery pepper, baked cherry and an exotic mix of savory spice. Medium-bodied, it has a density that's both plush and lush.Dutton Ranch Freestone Hill Vineyard9172CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneDutton-Goldfield 2014 Dutton Ranch Freestone Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirDutton-Goldfield
4982449823USThis wine is all bramble and brawn. High-octane in power and ripeness, it has a juicy core of mocha-laced blackberry fruit. Pencil shavings and gravel notes add a tease of minerality amongst all that richness.Family Reserve9175CaliforniaHowell MountainNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneCharles Krug 2013 Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain)Cabernet SauvignonCharles Krug
4982549824SpainTight, woody and refined on the nose, this is concentrated and dark in style, with good grip but nothing fierce or grabby to the palate. Toasty peppery black-fruit flavors finish warm and easy. Drink this bold Mencía through 2019.Cepas Viejas91Northern SpainBierzoMichael Schachner@wineschachDominio de Tares 2014 Cepas Viejas Mencía (Bierzo)MencíaDominio de Tares
4982649825USToo ripe and too oaky, and both attributes reinforce each other. The blackberry and currant fruit approaches Port in raisiny ripeness, while the oak accentuates the tannic sweetness. Clumsy now, but sometimes these wines improve in the long run. Try holding until after 2013.Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard86150CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaJanzen 2007 Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonJanzen
4982749826USNot quite as good as the 2007 Les Collines from this producer, but perhaps it just needs more bottle age. Light spritz and flavors of berry punch, along with not-yet-integrated barrel toast. Give it another year to fill out.Les Collines Vineyard8622WashingtonWalla Walla Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Angel Vine 2008 Les Collines Vineyard Zinfandel (Walla Walla Valley (WA))ZinfandelAngel Vine
4982849827ChileToast, buttercup and baked apple aromas give it some richness and sweetness to start, and the palate is creamy but well balanced, with toasty apple, peach and vanilla flavors. Solid and creamy on the finish, with tropical afterburners. Drink soon before it fades.Reserva8611Casablanca ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachVeramonte 2008 Reserva Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley)ChardonnayVeramonte
4982949828ChileSalad dressing, vinegar and a heavy herbal blast greet you on the nose. The palate is chunky and thick in feel, but the flavors mirror the nose with green notes, herbs and burnt coffee. Has its merits but there's no escaping the fact that this is an herbal, roasted red blend.Cuvée Don Reca Limited Release8625Cachapoal ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachViña La Rosa 2007 Cuvée Don Reca Limited Release Red (Cachapoal Valley)Red BlendViña La Rosa
4983049829ItalyBricco Bastia offers an inky, dense expression of Dolcetto with loads of dark fruit, cherry and blueberry intensity. There are also mineral notes in there and the close is slightly vinous, chewy and raw.Bricco Bastia8623PiedmontDolcetto d'AlbaConterno Fantino 2009 Bricco Bastia (Dolcetto d'Alba)DolcettoConterno Fantino

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