Wine Reviews

5028150280FranceWith 80% Chardonnay barrel-fermented and 20% Pinot Noir from vat, this prestige cuvée is ripe, with the fruit softening towards a more mature character. A tang of orange zest gives a crisp texture that contrasts with the spicy, rich aftertaste. The wine from the family's small vineyards in the Marne Valley is still developing; drink from 2018.Confidencia Brut9157ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerLiebart-Régnier 2010 Confidencia Brut (Champagne)Champagne BlendLiebart-Régnier
5028250281USStrong cedar notes greet the nose alongside charred red bell pepper, crushed gravel and elderberry fruit. Pencil shavings are prominent on the very full and complex palate, giving nuance to black plums, roasted beef, charcoal and dark chocolate.JD Hurley9126CaliforniaSanta Clara ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannMartin Ranch 2013 JD Hurley Merlot (Santa Clara Valley)MerlotMartin Ranch
5028350282SpainEven in a cool year, Mauro has bottled a ripe Tempranillo (with 10% Syrah) that smells of raisin and toasty oak. Full, chewy and balanced on the palate, this tastes rooty, chocolaty and like mixed black fruits. Flavors of pepper, coffee and toast accent dark fruit and prune on the finish. Drink this fairly tannic red through 2024.9150Northern SpainVino de la Tierra de Castilla y LeónMichael Schachner@wineschachMauro 2013 Red (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León)Tempranillo BlendMauro
5028450283USThis is a hefty wine that's also well-polished and well balanced. Wonderful aromas and flavors blend cedar, cinnamon, tobacco, red cherry and black plum, while a blanket of fine-grained tannins wraps everything up in an appetizing grip.9119CaliforniaMendocino CountyJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsMonte Volpe 2012 Sangiovese (Mendocino County)SangioveseMonte Volpe
5028550284USA healthy portion of new oak blends beautifully with the variety's inherent tannins in this full-bodied wine. The two influences meld with each other rather than pile on. It has that sweet-seeming oak perfume, like cedar, vanilla and cinnamon, followed by vivid red cherry and raspberry flavors with new leather accents that linger through the finish.Pauli Ranch9142CaliforniaRedwood ValleyJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsMuscardini 2012 Pauli Ranch Sangiovese (Redwood Valley)SangioveseMuscardini
5028650285USA classy, spicy oak aroma and very concentrated fruit flavors highlight this full-bodied and firmly tannic wine. It's so layered and saturated with delicious dark fruit that the impression stays on the tongue and palate for a long finish.Zio Luciano Estate Grown, Produced and Bottled9125CaliforniaSierra FoothillsSierra FoothillsJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsNaggiar 2013 Zio Luciano Estate Grown, Produced and Bottled Red (Sierra Foothills)Red BlendNaggiar
5028750286FranceBased in Celles-sur-Ource in the Seine Valley on the Côte des Bar, this producer's nonvintage wine is ripe despite its dry extra brut dosage. With the unusual proportion of 25% Pinot Blanc in the blend, it is smooth and soft, finishing with just the right tangy acidity and a steely texture. Drink now.Grains de Celles Extra Brut9145ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerPierre Gerbais NV Grains de Celles Extra Brut (Champagne)Champagne BlendPierre Gerbais
5028850287USThis well-balanced wine tastes more nimble than the huge bottle it comes in. The wine has oak and balsam aromas, fresh raspberry and cherry flavors, full body and just-right moderate tannins for good grip on the palate. This is a great example of a high-alcohol wine that doesn't taste extreme and is very enjoyable.Landmark Collection9140CaliforniaLivermore ValleyCentral CoastJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsRubino Estates Winery 2013 Landmark Collection Sangiovese (Livermore Valley)SangioveseRubino Estates Winery
5028950288USJuicy and inviting, this is a bright red-fruited wine accented in anise. Soft, integrated oak and tannin allow the vibrant, happy acidity to shine atop full-bodied generosity.9138CaliforniaAlexander ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneSeghesio 2013 Barbera (Alexander Valley)BarberaSeghesio
5029050289USThis appellation blend from the single-vineyard-focused winery offers a great look at the region, showing a pithy nose full of Meyer lemon as well as a touch of yogurt. The mouthfeel is grippy with lots of nervous tension, which is much more interesting than the standard range of citrus flavors on display.9138CaliforniaSta. Rita HillsCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannTestarossa 2014 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills)ChardonnayTestarossa
5029150290AustraliaA blend of McLaren Vale, Hunter Valley and Beechworth fruit went into this bottling, and the components have knit together well. The wine is sappy and floral on the nose, and silky-textured on the palate, loaded with raspberry and blueberry fruit and ample peppery spice. Drink now through 2020+.9127Australia OtherAustraliaJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzBrokenwood 2013 Shiraz (Australia)ShirazBrokenwood
5029250291AustraliaThis is made in an earthy-savory style, offering hints of roasted meat, black olives and espresso. It's also firmly constructed, with firm tannins that suggest a couple of years of cellar time would do it some good. Drink 2018 through 2025.The Footbolt9120South AustraliaMcLaren ValeJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzD'Arenberg 2012 The Footbolt Shiraz (McLaren Vale)ShirazD'Arenberg
5029350292PortugalReliant on perfumed Touriga Nacional, this single estate wine is generous, ripe and full of black fruits. Richly tannic and structured, it has a serious side, firm and with good potential. Drink from 2018.9115DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerQuinta das Carvalhas 2013 Red (Douro)Portuguese RedQuinta das Carvalhas
5029450293FranceAlitgoté, the other white grape of Burgundy, can produce attractive herbal wines that have considerable freshness. This is crisp and lively, showing citrus and earthiness. It's not for aging, so drink now.Buissonnier8415BurgundyBourgogne AligotéRoger Voss@vossrogerVignerons de Buxy 2013 Buissonnier (Bourgogne Aligoté)AligotéVignerons de Buxy
5029550294FranceThe wine is fresh, fruity, still young and all the better for it. Red cherry fruits and a crisp texture gives a cool, juicy feel. It's not for aging.Buissonnier8414BurgundyCoteaux BourguignonsRoger Voss@vossrogerVignerons de Buxy 2013 Buissonnier (Coteaux Bourguignons)Pinot Noir-GamayVignerons de Buxy
5029650295FranceA soft, fruity wine, this features attractive citrus and peach flavors. It's light and fresh with a crisp, bright aftertaste. Saint-Bris is the only appellation in Burgundy to produce Sauvignon Blanc.8416BurgundySaint-BrisRoger Voss@vossrogerSimonnet-Febvre 2012 Saint-BrisSauvignon BlancSimonnet-Febvre
5029750296SpainDusty strawberry and cherry aromas are hollow but easy. The palate is plump but short on edge and framing. Flavors of strawberry and raspberry roll awkwardly into a low-acid, soft finish.Los Bohemios Garnacha849Northern SpainNavarraMichael Schachner@wineschachJardín de Lúculo 2013 Los Bohemios Garnacha Rosé (Navarra)RoséJardín de Lúculo
5029850297FranceThis is an attractively fruity wine, crisp, full of red currant flavors and with a tight, tannic edge. Still young, it is dominated by acidity that needs to calm down. Give the wine until mid- or late 2015.8418BurgundyCoteaux BourguignonsRoger Voss@vossrogerLouis Tête 2013 Coteaux BourguignonsGamayLouis Tête
5029950298SpainSalmon-colored, this is neutral on the nose except for a touch of peach and melon. The palate feels plump and melony, with adequate acidity. Simple peachy flavors finish with no lasting impression.Mencía8412Northern SpainBierzoMichael Schachner@wineschachArmas de Guerra 2013 Mencía Rosado (Bierzo)RosadoArmas de Guerra
5030050299FrancePushing past the earthy character and into the fruit, this wine is light with delicate red fruit flavors. It is fresh and crisp but spoilt by that barnyard edginess.Rose Top Brut8445ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerHeidsieck & Co Monopole NV Rose Top Brut (Champagne)Champagne BlendHeidsieck & Co Monopole
5030150300PortugalThe meaty, yeasty character here doesn't chime well with the ripe, soft fruit. It is sweet with a full, toffee flavor and only light acidity.10-Year-Old Tawny8412PortRoger Voss@vossrogerWine & Soul NV 10-Year-Old Tawny (Port)PortWine & Soul
5030250301SpainHerbal plum and leather aromas are tight and earthy. This is juicy, with green-leaning plum and rhubarb flavors that have a peppery note. The finish is minty.8411Northern SpainRiojaMichael Schachner@wineschachEl Circulo 2012 RiojaTempranilloEl Circulo
5030350302USAn old-school, non-interventionist style of Pinot Noir with a slightly tawny color on the rim and similarly mature flavors. This has earthy, tea-like aromas, flavors of dried cranberries and a mellow texture.Estate8450CaliforniaAnderson ValleyJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsToulouse 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley)Pinot NoirToulouse
5030450303PortugalCrisp raspberry flavors along with candied sweetness give this fruity Port a soft and gentle character. It is certainly sweet, even sugary, while retaining good balance. Pink and rosé Port is usually served chilled and in cocktails. Founded in 1862 and historically known as C. da Silva, this producer is now Dalva.Rosé84PortRoger Voss@vossrogerDalva NV Rosé (Port)PortDalva
5030550304FranceA dark color with light orange flecks leads to a wine that is fruity while feeling heavy. It has ripe strawberry flavors and a caramel character that doesn't lie with the final acidity.Brut Rosé8459ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerDautel-Cadot NV Brut Rosé Pinot Noir (Champagne)Pinot NoirDautel-Cadot
5030650305PortugalSweet and fruity, this rich wine hangs heavily. It has candied flavors without enough acidity to balance. The aftertaste is rich and full, easily in search for a cocktail. Drink now.Pink84PortRoger Voss@vossrogerGran Cruz NV Pink (Port)PortGran Cruz
5030750306PortugalThis crisp, lightly sparkling, off-dry Vinho Verde offers attractive acidity and bright citrus flavors, with hints of apple and green plum. Light and fresh, it's ready to drink now.Twin Vines848Vinho VerdeRoger Voss@vossrogerJosé Maria da Fonseca 2013 Twin Vines White (Vinho Verde)Portuguese WhiteJosé Maria da Fonseca
5030850307FranceWith flavors of vanilla and caramel, this is rounded and full in the mouth. It passes up on a steely, edgy texture in favor of a warm and rich character. The result is a wine that is soft and needs to be drunk now.Le Classique8424BurgundyChablisRoger Voss@vossrogerPascal Bouchard 2013 Le Classique (Chablis)ChardonnayPascal Bouchard
5030950308PortugalThis soft, caramel flavored rosé is produced from the native Castelão grape in coastal Setúbal south of Lisbon. With rounded red fruits and light acidity, it is dry and destined to pair with food.Azul Portugal8411Península de SetúbalRoger Voss@vossrogerWines & Winemakers 2013 Azul Portugal Rosé (Península de Setúbal)RoséWines & Winemakers
5031050309ArgentinaThe nose conjures feral notes of skunk. A rich, syrupy palate tastes complicated and uneasy. Flavors of brown sugar and herbal black cherry are confusing, while the finish is herbal, earthy and green.Allamand Altamira8325Mendoza ProvinceMendozaMichael Schachner@wineschachLuminis 2012 Allamand Altamira Malbec (Mendoza)MalbecLuminis

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