Wine Reviews


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526525USThere's an expert balance between lightly melted butter, pithy Meyer lemon and toasted marcona almond on the nose of this bottling from the region's iconic vineyard. The palate is wound up tightly, offering good grip and lots of textural length while showing flavors of chamomile, saffron, sea salt and more Meyer lemon rinds.Rincon Vineyard9149CaliforniaArroyo Grande ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannTestarossa 2015 Rincon Vineyard Chardonnay (Arroyo Grande Valley)ChardonnayTestarossa
527526USJust 8% of this reserve spent time in new oak, putting the emphasis on juicy jammy flavors of cranberry fruit. It rolls into sour cherry, some citrus and a most refreshing, clean and vivid mouthfeel. Drink now and into the mid-2020s.Prince Hill Vineyard Reserve9155OregonDundee HillsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Tumwater 2014 Prince Hill Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills)Pinot NoirTumwater
528527GermanyA surprising whiff of black currant on the nose of this elegant white points to Scheurebe—one of Germany's lesser-known grapes. Wittmann's version is particularly poised, offering loads of peach and grapefruit flavors, sharply contrasted by zesty lime and mineral tones. The finish is long and sleek, touched by a hint of bee pollen.Trocken9130RheinhessenAnna Lee C. IijimaWittmann 2015 Trocken Scheurebe (Rheinhessen)ScheurebeWittmann
529528FranceThis producer shows its preference for dry Champagnes with this bone-dry, oak-fermented bottling. With its bottle age and the softening effect of wood, it's generous and gently textured, leaving plenty of room for its bright fruit and balanced acidity to show. Drink from 2018.Brut Zéro Sélection9142ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerJeaunaux-Robin NV Brut Zéro Sélection (Champagne)Champagne BlendJeaunaux-Robin
530529USFrom the sought-after site on Westside Road, this wine delivers a nuanced, elegant expression of juicy red cherry, plum, pomegranate and light, compelling spice. With a depth of body and soft, integrated tannin, it's complex without being overpowering, finishing in a mix of sautéed mushroom and forest floor.Bucher Vineyard9145CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneJoseph Jewell 2014 Bucher Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirJoseph Jewell
531530ChileJammy berry aromas seem reduced at first, with notes of iodine and rubber. But with airing this packed Syrah comes around. A flush saturated tannic palate is home to toasty blackened berry, coffee and spice flavors. On the finish, burnt toast and espresso flavors don't slip. Drink through 2022.Cuvée Alexandre Apalta Vineyard Made With Organic Grapes9124Colchagua ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachLapostolle 2013 Cuvée Alexandre Apalta Vineyard Made With Organic Grapes Syrah (Colchagua Valley)SyrahLapostolle
532531USOne of a crop of new Oregon sparklers, this was barrel fermented with native yeast and aged for 56 months prior to disgorging. Fine tiny bubbles and a fresh, yeasty aroma introduce the wine, which has excellent concentration. Green apple and green banana, a touch of cucumber and a nice toasty frame all combine gracefully. The odds are that this will continue to improve in bottle for another five years at least.Blanc de Noir9150OregonOregonOregon OtherPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Le Cadeau 2011 Blanc de Noir Sparkling (Oregon)Sparkling BlendLe Cadeau
533532USScott Shull (Raptor Ridge) consults here. This brings a blend of clones from the estate vineyard, with ample new wood still showing through. Black fruits and a vein of coffee are also in the mix, with a balanced, somewhat muscular mouthfeel. This has the strength to stand up to a lightly blackened grilled seafood filet.Diversité9150OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Le Cadeau 2015 Diversité Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirLe Cadeau
511510USFlint and smoke aromas show strongly on this bottling, alongside hints of lemon balm and a rustic apple cider vinegar savory kick. Tangy smoked tangerine flavors show on the energized sip, where a unique sandalwood smoky quality plays with more cider-like tang.Coastview Vineyard9148CaliforniaMonterey CountyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannBig Basin 2014 Coastview Vineyard Chardonnay (Monterey County)ChardonnayBig Basin
534533USSlightly liquorous when first opened, this pushes the alcohol up towards a place where some of the nuances are lost. But it has plenty of flavor, power and punch. Black coffee, black cherry, black olive and black licorice are entwined here, with some heat in the follow-through. Give it a good decanting and it will start to smooth out.Équinoxe9150OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Le Cadeau 2015 Équinoxe Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirLe Cadeau
535534USBlack plum, charred wood, coffee syrup and cracked black pepper show on the excellently bright nose of this bottling. The flavors are equally intriguing, with umami touches of charred beef along with rosemary, bay leaf, olie and more black pepper.Di Domenico9138CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannLe Vigne 2014 Di Domenico Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles)Cabernet SauvignonLe Vigne
536535GermanyFresh green apple and grapefruit aromas are bolstered on the palate of this dry, elegantly balanced Riesling. It's light bodied yet delightfully creamy. A kiss of tangerine zest marks its moderately long finish.Trocken9122MoselAnna Lee C. IijimaMaximin Grünhäuser 2015 Trocken Riesling (Mosel)RieslingMaximin Grünhäuser
537536USMerlot (63%) takes the lead on this blend followed by Cabernet Sauvignon (23%) and Cabernet Franc. The aromas seem somewhat wound up at present, with notes of wood spice, vanilla and fresh herb. The palate is über-smooth, showing a fine sense of balance and polish.9150WashingtonWalla Walla Valley (WA)Columbia ValleySean P. Sullivan@wawinereportNorthstar 2013 Red (Walla Walla Valley (WA))Bordeaux-style Red BlendNorthstar
538537USA 100% varietal wine, this offers upfront structure and gravelly texture, its tannins robust. The medium-bodied ripeness allows plenty of room for dried herb and cedar, accents to the bolder notions of black raspberry jam and coffee.91110CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaVirginie Boone@vboonePadis 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonPadis
539538USThis is sourced from 30-year-old Wädenswil vines from a vineyard in the Elkton AVA. It's complex and compelling, showing layers of stone, strawberry, citrus, chocolate and sassafras. It's an elegant wine, well proportioned and modest in scope, but delicious.Bradley Vineyard9145OregonUmpqua ValleySouthern OregonPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Paul O'Brien 2014 Bradley Vineyard Pinot Noir (Umpqua Valley)Pinot NoirPaul O'Brien
540539USBright pomegranate and dried strawberry notes start the aromas on this bottling and then descend into more brooding cola, smoked herbs, cinnamon and spicy hibiscus. There is herbal and mineral depth to the palate, with raspberry, cranberry and pencil lead flavors that evolve toward fruit punch, thyme and earth. It's light in body but full of grippy texture.Twin Creeks Estate9342CaliforniaEdna ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannClaiborne & Churchill 2014 Twin Creeks Estate Pinot Noir (Edna Valley)Pinot NoirClaiborne & Churchill
512511FranceThis potentially rich Champagne is still young. The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that dominate the blend show tight acidity, minerality and a tangy, orange-like edge. Give it time to mature, and it will be splendid.Cuvée St Clément9170ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerBoude Baudin 2010 Cuvée St Clément (Champagne)Champagne BlendBoude Baudin
513512FranceAged for an extra two years to soften its tense acidity, this Champagne is defiantly bone-dry yet not searing. Its ripe and rich fruitiness cushions the crisp acidity and taut, nervy citrus character. Drink now.B. Zéro Brut Dosage9159ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerBoude Baudin NV B. Zéro Brut Dosage (Champagne)Champagne BlendBoude Baudin
514513USBig tannins support the layers of extracted, concentrated fruit that leans red into cherry, cassis and currant. Char and vanilla speak for the oak.El Adobo Ranch Vineyard9190CaliforniaChiles ValleyNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneConn Creek 2013 El Adobo Ranch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Chiles Valley)Cabernet SauvignonConn Creek
515514ChileBaked blueberry and boysenberry aromas are more ripe than delicate. This Merlot is saturated and deeply tannic. Flavors of coffee, chocolate and lemon peel precede a toasty finish that overflows with chocolaty oak and lingering tannins. Drink through 2023.20 Barrels Limited Edition Peralillo Estate9135Colchagua ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachCono Sur 2012 20 Barrels Limited Edition Peralillo Estate Merlot (Colchagua Valley)MerlotCono Sur
516515USDelicate in cranberry and strawberry, this wine is highlighted in uplifted acidity and plenty of length and breadth within its medium-bodied structure. A pleasing streak of cardamom is consistent throughout, as accents of forest floor and cola figure in.Silver Eagle Vineyard9175CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneD.R. Stephens 2014 Silver Eagle Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)Pinot NoirD.R. Stephens
517516USThis is a relatively thick and dense wine, grippy in tannin and oak at first, youthful and desiring of time and air. Beyond its strength, its shows the beginnings of delicacy and grace, commingling raspberry with clove and tea.Soul Patch Estate Grown9155CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneDavis Family 2014 Soul Patch Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirDavis Family
518517USThis is a soft, smooth and earthy wine, still unraveling from its youth, that's crisp and fresh in acidity. Chewy still in texture, it offers a glorious celebration of red cherry, rhubarb, tea and clove.Starr Ridge Vineyard9155CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneDavis Family 2014 Starr Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirDavis Family
519518FranceFrom a walled vineyard once owned by the local bishop, this wine is structured and firm while also having great red cherry and berry fruit. It's one of a number of Premier Crus from this producer—and certainly the most expressive with its generous fruit and balanced tannins. Drink from 2018.Le Clos l'Evêque Premier Cru9160BurgundyMercureyRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Jeannin-Naltet 2014 Le Clos l'Evêque Premier Cru (Mercurey)Pinot NoirDomaine Jeannin-Naltet
520519USDeliciously fruity but also well-structured, this full-bodied wine has excellent concentration and good balance. Effusive aromas of blueberry and black cherry lead to opulent but not overripe berry flavors that are lightly accented by clove and cinnamon nuances.The Brat9136CaliforniaCalaveras CountySierra FoothillsJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsProspect 772 2014 The Brat Grenache (Calaveras County)GrenacheProspect 772
521520USBob Lindquist is almost certainly the only vintner in America that is drying Marsanne on straw mats to make a dessert wine. The result is aromas of Asian pear, white peach, baked apple and baking spice, more fresh rather than sweet. It is viscous on the sip, and the sweetness steadily grows on the palate, offering cotton candy flavors. Fascinating stuff.Doux Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard9135CaliforniaEdna ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannQupé 2013 Doux Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard Marsanne (Edna Valley)MarsanneQupé
522521USThis is a delicate yet flavorful take on this grape, from a biodynamic, cool-climate vineyard. Light red plum and hibiscus aromas meet with sweet herbs and cinnamon spice on the nose. The lithe palate offers candied strawberry with thyme, anise and touches of garden herbs, with that red fruit flavor carrying deep into the finish. Would pair great with spicy food.Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard9135CaliforniaEdna ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannQupé 2013 Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard Grenache (Edna Valley)GrenacheQupé
523522USThe Sims is amped up in 2014, dark and thick and showing a roasted character. Mocha, black tea and Kahlua flavors push the palate into a gritty charred mode. It's delicious, liquorous, and suitable for smoky ribs or a juicy burger. Drink now through 2020.Sims Vineyard9155OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Rex Hill 2014 Sims Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirRex Hill
524523USThere's a whiff of volatility upon opening, then a rush of bright, tangy orange and cherry fruit. The 20% new oak aging does not really come through in scent or flavor. Though not in any way effervescent, this young release carries an impression of carbonation in the finish. Give it another year or two of bottle age and drink after 2019.Steve's Reserve9165OregonChehalem MountainsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Ruby 2015 Steve's Reserve Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains)Pinot NoirRuby
525524USWood spice, cherry and herb aromas are followed by luscious cherry flavors. It keeps you coming back for more with a high yum factor.Wallula9135WashingtonHorse Heaven HillsColumbia ValleySean P. Sullivan@wawinereportStructure 2014 Wallula Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills)SyrahStructure

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