Wine Reviews


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5430154300AustriaA very alluring mix of wintery wood smoke, slight Bourbon vanilla and fallen oak leaves crushed underfoot frames restrained notes of red fruit. There is the most seductive, barely glanced notion of elderberry. The palate is silky and dwells on the autumnal aspects of Pinot but comes with immense elegance, tender white pepper notes and a store of profound fruit. There is a fine-grained density and real structure beneath this smooth surface. Be patient and give this wine its due and drink 2018–2025.Holzspur9680ThermenregionAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoJohanneshof Reinisch 2013 Holzspur Pinot Noir (Thermenregion)Pinot NoirJohanneshof Reinisch
5430254301AustriaThe purity of the nose is glacial and utterly clean-cut. There is an enticing headiness to the lemon and bergamot aromas. This is uncompromisingly citric, with a life force that can revive every single nerve in our body. The citrus spectrum gets its full due in a wine that sparkles and glistens with purity and life itself.Steinmassl9680KamptalAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoLoimer 2014 Steinmassl Riesling (Kamptal)RieslingLoimer
5430354302AustriaRight now, this feels like a compact parcel of closely packed fruit flavors, held tight by citric freshness and yet it offering glimpses of what is to come: there is a hint of yeasty savor, but also a textural element reminiscent of apple peel. The citrus notions are promises of tart grapefruit, tangy orange, ripe tangerine and the purest lemon. There is something definite and astute that stands with an absolutely straight backbone, just waiting for its time to arrive. It will be spectacular. Drink from 2019.Heiligenstein Lyra Reserve9664KamptalAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoBründlmayer 2014 Heiligenstein Lyra Reserve Riesling (Kamptal)RieslingBründlmayer
5430454303FranceThis is an impressive wine that transcends the problems of the vintage. It has rich fruit that is sustained by the tannic structure that rests on a bed of fresh blackberry fruits cut with fresh acidity. The wine will certainly age well. Don't think about drinking it before 2024.9665BordeauxSaint-EstèpheRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Calon Ségur 2013 Saint-EstèpheBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Calon Ségur
5430554304AustriaFresh green apple and riper Cox's Orange Pippin present an aromatic nose that reveals a more citric verve on the palate. This is suave and slender, with a very light but deceptive touch: apple and stone fruit, now wound tightly in citrus lie in wait, ready to burst forth when their moment comes. As floating as a breeze, as lasting as a stone. Drink 2017–2023.Ried Loibenberg Smaragd9656WachauAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoEmmerich Knoll 2014 Ried Loibenberg Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)RieslingEmmerich Knoll
5430654305FranceThis is finely structured, a tense wine with great fruits and an intense texture. It's tight while bursting with fruit. The structure is complex, dense and very mineral in character. It is a wine that will need many years, so drink from 2022. The production is tiny, and what is not fit for this wine goes into the Dillon Clarté wine.96767BordeauxPessac-LéognanRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau La Mission Haut-Brion 2013 Pessac-LéognanBordeaux-style White BlendChâteau La Mission Haut-Brion
5430754306AustriaMandarin peel flirts with the aromatic zest of Seville orange. The concentration of flavor is immense and has the verve, drive and linearity of a jet-engine on on takeoff. The palate slows down the motion and captures the nuanced flavors of Seville orange—tinged green, bitter, juicy and tart at the same time. This will not reach its finish line for years but will provide racy enjoyment all the way. Drink 2018–2030.Ried Kellerberg Smaragd9664WachauAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoEmmerich Knoll 2014 Ried Kellerberg Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)RieslingEmmerich Knoll
5430854307ItalyThis pure expression of Merlot opens with enticing scents of red woodland berry, crushed flower, smoke and exotic incense. The silky, structured palate boasts a range of flavors, including juicy wild cherry, raspberry jam, licorice, tobacco, vanilla and cinnamon, while velvety tannins offer seamless, polished support. It's already elegant and thoroughly delicious, but it will age well too. Drink 2018–2028.Patrimo96105Southern ItalyCampaniaKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeFeudi di San Gregorio 2012 Patrimo Merlot (Campania)MerlotFeudi di San Gregorio
5432454323FranceIf any rosé can be serious, it's this. It has structure as well as fruit, a sense of purpose, ripe red fruits and tight acidity. It could even age, so wait to drink it until late in summer 2014.Cuvée Première9015ProvenceCôtes de ProvenceRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Deffends 2013 Cuvée Première Rosé (Côtes de Provence)RoséChâteau Deffends
5430954308AustriaThe concerted impact of bergamot, grapefruit, tangerine and lemon is almost surreal—its headiness reaches long neglected memories of deep summer mingled with the freshness of the open sea. The intensity of spicy grapefruit and the skin of still-green Seville oranges transports you to utopian shores. That such flavor should come from grapes is one of nature's unresolved, eternal mysteries. That this should shine in such a concentrated, slender wine is a marvel.Das Beste vom Riesling Reserve9670KremstalAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoMalat 2014 Das Beste vom Riesling Reserve Riesling (Kremstal)RieslingMalat
5431054309AustriaOnce the first whiff of yeast has worn off, a very pure, linear procession of citrus flavors presents itself: from the yellowish green of grapefruit to the greenish orange of a tangy tangerine, always with a deeper, more resonant core of earth and stone. The zestiness glistens on the surface, the tightly closed, still earthy fruit broods at the core. Wait for it to explode. Drink 2018–2028.Ried Schütt Smaragd9678WachauAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoEmmerich Knoll 2014 Ried Schütt Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)RieslingEmmerich Knoll
5431154310FranceThis generous, almost opulent wine has both concentration and rounded fruits. It's open already, hinting at wood-aging while concentrating much more on the ripe fruits. Packed with fruit and tannins, it's densely textured. It will age, of course; don't start to drink before 2025.96400BordeauxPauillacRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Mouton Rothschild 2013 PauillacBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Mouton Rothschild
5431254311AustriaThis wines arrives on tiptoe, citrus-scented and fresh, but once it expands on your palate it soon fills the mouth with all manner of stone fruits. As befits this vintage, everything is tempered with grapefruit zestiness but both mirabelle and apricot richness not only lend flavor but also a beautiful texture that insinuates quince and blood orange zest. What a triumph, what a marvel. Irresistible now but with incredible concentration this is built to last. Drink now till 2020 at least.Gaisberg Reserve9628KamptalAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoEichinger 2014 Gaisberg Reserve Riesling (Kamptal)RieslingEichinger
5432554324FranceRed fruits drive this tangy, fruity wine that is given shape by a more mineral texture. With dusty raspberry and plum flavors, it is shot through at the end with citrus.90ProvenceCôtes de Provence Sainte-VictoireRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Maupague 2013 Rosé (Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire)RoséChâteau Maupague
5431354312AustriaThe nose already promises pleasure. Layers of grapefruit and mirabelle, lemon and tangerine, apple and honey present a series of contradictions—not to mention delicious flavors—creating immense and irresistible tension. This is only going to get better if you can refrain from drinking it all. Pure thrill and lots of concentrated, zesty promise.Heiligenstein Reserve9535KamptalAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoEichinger 2014 Heiligenstein Reserve Riesling (Kamptal)RieslingEichinger
5431454313AustriaAn overtone of leesy yeast quickly gives way to lemony freshness, rounded out by hints of yellow plum and peach. Citrus also continues to be the focus on the palate: fresh zest of ripe lemons and Meyer lemons just edged by peppery spice. This is taut and very linear, streamlined, concentrated and slender but still tightly wound. This will relax into more spice and fruit with a little while in bottle. Right now it is a zesty, evocative mouthful of promise.Ried Schütt Smaragd9553WachauAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoEmmerich Knoll 2014 Ried Schütt Smaragd Grüner Veltliner (Wachau)Grüner VeltlinerEmmerich Knoll
5431554314AustriaThe nose is a tease of subtle mandarin and lemon zest, promising but not giving away very much at all. The alluring juiciness of the palate hints at small, yellow mirabelle plums but as of yet merely plays at the surface. Underneath it all is a solid powerhouse bursting with Seville orange, freshness and precision. Another one to keep, guard and treasure for a precious but enlightening soirée. The endless length reinforces that promise. Drink 2018–2025.Loibner Loibenberg Smaragd9562WachauAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoF X Pichler 2014 Loibner Loibenberg Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)RieslingF X Pichler
5431654315AustriaBergamot and lemon, grapefruit and tangerine: students of citriculture would find much to explore—perfumers too. As a drinker you just want to dive into this inviting, fragrant pool of refreshment. There is a powdery edge too, and quite some texture, despite the most slender of bodies. This represents depth rather than power and is a ticket straight to a citrussy Riesling heaven. With age this will get even better.Loibner Steinertal Smaragd9557WachauAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoF X Pichler 2014 Loibner Steinertal Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)RieslingF X Pichler
5431754316AustriaChervil, lovage, watercress and yeast swirl headily on the nose. The palate subsumes these in a tight, taut, savory core of immense energy and power. There is muscle and tone, power and punch. If you are looking for a superlatively spicy, long-lived Grüner, this is the one to get. Underneath you will find notions of stone and earth that anchor this firmly. The finish is clean and long. Drink 2017–2020.Honivogl Smaragd9590WachauAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoFranz Hirtzberger 2014 Honivogl Smaragd Grüner Veltliner (Wachau)Grüner VeltlinerFranz Hirtzberger
5431854317USFrom mighty Kanzler comes this ripe, densely tannic wine, plush like candy, it's a celebration of black cherry, dried herbs and vanilla oak, rewarding in its nod to hedonism in balance. The minerality is pronounced and persistent, allowing the wine to breathe. Drink now through 2023.Kanzler Vineyard9570CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneLynmar 2013 Kanzler Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)Pinot NoirLynmar
5431954318ItalyNamed after the late Antonio Mastroberardino, this stunning wine opens with aromas of underbrush, dark cherry, tobacco, exotic spice and blue flower. The radiant palate seamlessly combines structure and finesse, delivering mature black cherry, juicy raspberry, white pepper, clove and licorice while bright acidity and firm, polished tannins provide balance. Hold for added complexity. Drink 2018–2033.Radici Antonio Riserva9580Southern ItalyTaurasiKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeMastroberardino 2008 Radici Antonio Riserva (Taurasi)AglianicoMastroberardino
5432054319USFrom a label owned by former L.A. Laker Sasha Vujacic, this Merlot-dominant wine delivers aromas of bricks, dust, black cherries, dried oregano and cedar, the sense of ripe but serious fruit lingering in the background. The energetic, grippy palate is reminiscent of Vietnamese coffee—creamy yet properly bitter, rich and flavorful—with blueberry and tart blackberry fruit proving lush and welcoming.9575CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannAleksander 2011 Red (Paso Robles)Bordeaux-style Red BlendAleksander
5432154320ItalyNew leather, black cherry, underbrush, sweet baking spice and a whiff of white pepper are just some of the aromas you'll discover on this stunning red. The structured, delicious palate doles out mature black cherry, raspberry, licorice, Mediterranean herb and a note of exotic spice alongside a backbone of polished, refined tannins. It already seamlessly combines power and finesse but will continue to develop complexity over the next decade. Drink 2018–2028.9550Southern ItalyTaurasiKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeContrade di Taurasi - Lonardo 2010 TaurasiAglianicoContrade di Taurasi - Lonardo
5432254321USThis unusual Bordeaux-style blend has a substantial amount (61%) of Petit Verdot, yet that often-inky and tannic grape does not overwhelm the other four, and gives the wine a powerful foundation. The palate broadens out with generous black fruits, polished tannins, and lively acidity, finishing with a bit of cedar and a whiff of roasted meat.Trentenaire9040WashingtonYakima ValleyColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Brian Carter Cellars 2010 Trentenaire Red (Yakima Valley)Bordeaux-style Red BlendBrian Carter Cellars
5432354322FranceFrom a parcel in the Osterberg Grand Cru vineyard, this is a blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. The spice dominates although it is cut through by Riesling acidity. It's not quite integrated, showing youthful exuberance that needs to settle down. Drink from 2016.Clos du Zahnacker90AlsaceAlsaceRoger Voss@vossrogerCave de Ribeauvillé 2010 Clos du Zahnacker White (Alsace)Alsace white blendCave de Ribeauvillé
5432654325FranceFrom a 100-acre estate formerly the home of the Counts of Provence, this wine has a great fruity character allied to a more mineral texture. With richness and vanilla flavors it is both packed with raspberry fruits and showing structure. Keep until the end of 2014.Perle de9020ProvenceCôtes de ProvenceRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Réal Martin 2013 Perle de Rosé (Côtes de Provence)RoséChâteau Réal Martin
5432754326USRipe apricot, mango and peach flavors mark this flashy Chardonnay. It's dry and oaky, with brisk acidity and a creamy mouthfeel. Don't drink it too cold.Estate Grown9050CaliforniaOak Knoll DistrictNapaCorley Reserve 2012 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Oak Knoll District)ChardonnayCorley Reserve
5432854327USIt's bone dry, acidic and tannic in youth, but with a solid core of black cherries and red currants, and the oak has been subtlely applied. Give it until 2019–2020.9049CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaCult X 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirCult X
5432954328FranceA full-bodied, deliciously ripe blend of Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois and Pinot Noir, this is spiced with apples and crisp grapefruit acidity. Rich and creamy yet fresh, it is ready to drink.Brut9022AlsaceCrémant d'AlsaceRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Albert Mann 2010 Brut Sparkling (Crémant d'Alsace)Sparkling BlendDomaine Albert Mann
5433054329USThis southern Rhone-style blend consists of 35% Mourvèdre, 40% Grenache and 25% Syrah. Steely minerality underscores pretty cherry fruit, with a light and peppery streak of herb running through the tannins.Métier9044WashingtonRed MountainColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Doyenne 2011 Métier Red (Red Mountain)Rhône-style Red BlendDoyenne

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