Wine Reviews


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6232562324USThis is from one of the oldest Pinot Noir vineyards in the area, owned and farmed by Bob Pellegrini, and a place that has provided grapes Edwards since the 1980s. Spicy pine and cardamom greet the nose and palate, as silky smooth layers of rose and wild strawberry meet cardamon and vanilla. Medium-bodied, it remains complex and balanced as it develops additional nuance in the glass.Olivet Lane9468CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneMerry Edwards 2014 Olivet Lane Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirMerry Edwards
6232662325USRich black plum pudding, cigar box and pine needle aromas show on the nose of this blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache from this increasingly prominent vineyard. The sip is hearty with tons of juniper, licorice and forest floor spice that enhance the incredibly lavish base of blackberry and black currant fruit. The structure is rigid in form yet polished and soft, with acidity laced throughout.Law Vineyard9455CaliforniaAdelaida DistrictCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannNicora 2014 Law Vineyard Red (Adelaida District)Rhône-style Red BlendNicora
6232762326USThis strengthens the argument that there's a place for different kinds of white wines to be made in the Napa Valley, emphasizing fruit freshness and acidity without sacrificing flavor or soul. Juicy apricot and green apple ride a wave of unoaked refreshment and refinement, all within a crisp framework of deliciousness. Lavender and honeysuckle seduce quietly.9428CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneEighty Four 2016 Albariño (Napa Valley)AlbariñoEighty Four
6232862327USNear the town of Graton, this site provides cool-climate structure and personality to this wine. Olive, fig and minerality of the wet-stone variety are lifted by aromas of beautiful white flowers. Fully balanced, with a voluptuous edge, it's powerful and pretty.Laceroni Vineyard9465CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneBlue Farm 2014 Laceroni Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)ChardonnayBlue Farm
6232962328USBarrel toast rises on the nose of this cloudy, still youthful wine, still somewhat to be determined in complexity and nuance, yet undoubtedly impressive on the nose and palate. Delicious acidity is at its core, supportive of its sharp, crispness of apple, richer tones of creme brûlée and exotic foundation.Ritchie Vineyard9470CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneDella 2015 Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)ChardonnayDella
6233062329USFrom the eastern side of Calistoga, under the gorgeous geological formation for which the vineyard is named, this wine shows complex, moderately ripe aspects of pencil, leather and youthful, lifted acidity. Grippy still, the Burgundian oak used for aging was 30% new. Elegantly refined, it'll do well with further time in the cellar; enjoy best 2024 through 2034.Palisades Vineyard9455CaliforniaCalistogaNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneRobert Biale 2014 Palisades Vineyard Petite Sirah (Calistoga)Petite SirahRobert Biale
6233162330FranceThis small production wine showcases the qualities of Pinot Meunier. It's rich and smooth, with plenty of white fruit and an intense streak of lime crispness. Having already had time to mature, it hints at toastiness on the finish. Drink now.Cuvée Brut9460ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerServeaux Fils NV Cuvée Brut Pinot Meunier (Champagne)Pinot MeunierServeaux Fils
6233262331USFrom hillside vineyards on just one acre of the producer's estate, this lovely wine is pungently earthy in violet and fresh compost, its profile bright and lean. Cherry, orange and pomegranate make for a compelling expression of the variety, complemented by a meaty, gamy tease on the finish.Estate Grown Cave Fermented9485CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneJarvis 2013 Estate Grown Cave Fermented Tempranillo (Napa Valley)TempranilloJarvis
6231162310GermanyPristine peach and grapefruit flavors contrast with slightly stinky but captivating soil and saffron complexities in this sprightly auslese. Its honey-kissed sweetness pierces through a long, lemony finish. It's delicious already but should continue to improve through 2030, likely beyond.Brauneberger Juffer Auslese Goldkapsel9442MoselAnna Lee C. IijimaFritz Haag 2015 Brauneberger Juffer Auslese Goldkapsel Riesling (Mosel)RieslingFritz Haag
6231262311GermanyRich, sticky swirls of caramel and honey fill the palate of this lip-smacking sweet Riesling. It's slight in body and electric with acidity, yet its heaving, sun-kissed tropical fruit flavors persist boldly on the finish. Stunning already, it's sure to improve through 2030.Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkapsel9452MoselAnna Lee C. IijimaFritz Haag 2015 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkapsel Riesling (Mosel)RieslingFritz Haag
6231362312USThis is an impressive bottling from the Parrish family. Thick in the glass, it shows aromas of candied black currant, caramel, purple flowers and a hint of smoke. The palate is full and hearty with black cherry, clove and baking spice flavors. Its richness is balanced by tangy acidity and tannins that are generous but soft and well-polished.Clone 69465CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannParrish Family 2014 Clone 6 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles)Cabernet SauvignonParrish Family
6231462313USOne of several limited-block selections, this particular cuvée is 100% Pommard clone. The lush fruit core contains a generous mix of flavors—candied orange peel, candied ginger and chocolate cherries. The tannins have a breakfast tea character, and everything is smoothly melded and ready for immediate enjoyment.Block 239466OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Shea 2014 Block 23 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirShea
6231562314FranceThe grandest of the Chablis Grand Crus has produced a structured, still very young, wine. With its ripe apple and Bartlett pear fruit and tight, chalky mineral texture, it will be impressive once it unwinds. Drink from 2020.Les Clos Grand Cru9470BurgundyChablisRoger Voss@vossrogerSimonnet-Febvre 2014 Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis)ChardonnaySimonnet-Febvre
6231662315FranceFrom the most southerly of the Grand Cru vineyards, this wine is firm and tightly structured. Its wood aging shows in its toasty, spicy character that will integrate as the wine ages. Its rich yellow fruit and taut acidity suggest it will taste best from from 2021.Blanchot Grand Cru9469BurgundyChablisRoger Voss@vossrogerLa Chablisienne 2014 Blanchot Grand Cru (Chablis)ChardonnayLa Chablisienne
6233362332FranceFrom the grandest of the Grand Cru vineyards, this wine is powerful and structured. Its intense white and yellow fruit gains extra richness from subtle wood aging. It's juicy, ripe and full in the mouth. Drink from 2021.Les Clos Grand Cru9469BurgundyChablisRoger Voss@vossrogerLa Chablisienne 2014 Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis)ChardonnayLa Chablisienne
6233462333USCocoa powder is met by overfilling notions of wild blackberry and black cherry in this memorably textured and complex wine from the mountain. A smoothness on the midpalate roughs out the rockiness of the back tannins and fistfuls of supportive oak, finishing in a high-toned minerality that echoes volcanic soils and gravel.94150CaliforniaHowell MountainNapaVirginie Boone@vboonePine Ridge 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain)Cabernet SauvignonPine Ridge
6233562334USBrushy sage meets succulent blackberry, blueberry and tar in this impressive wine, which offers generous structure and complex tannin. Though juicy and decidedly enjoyable now, it will benefit from further cellaring; best 2022 through 2032.Cabernet Bosché94150CaliforniaRutherfordNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneFreemark Abbey 2012 Cabernet Bosché Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford)Cabernet SauvignonFreemark Abbey
6233662335AustraliaThis full-bodied, almost liquorous rendering of Mourvèdre is packed with fruit, power and finesse. Aromas of smoke, vanilla and graham crackers frame flavors of jammy blackberries and cassis. These finish with some alcoholic warmth yet remain plush and elegant. Drink now–2025.The Pict9475South AustraliaBarossa ValleyJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzTorbreck 2013 The Pict Mataro (Barossa Valley)MataroTorbreck
6233762336ItalyFermented in clay amphora, this fascinating orange wine opens with alluring aromas of dried yellow stone fruit, baking spice, aromatic herb, pressed yellow flower and a balsamic note. Boasting more fruit and flavor than many other wines in this genre, the savory enveloping palate presents apricot, yellow peach, candied nectarine zest, crystallized ginger and a hint of flinty mineral. Tangy acidity provides balance and lift while a honeyed note closes the lingering finish. Simply gorgeous.Vitalba in Anfora9424Central ItalyRomagnaKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeTre Monti 2015 Vitalba in Anfora Albana (Romagna)AlbanaTre Monti
6233862337GermanyThere's a thrilling, ethereal lightness to this feather-weight eiswein. Its luscious melon and mango flavors are dizzying with sweetness, but a laser shock of acidity anchors the midpalate neatly. The finish is slick, lingering on a waxy, caramel tone. Gorgeous now, it should continue to drink well for decades.Eiswein9386MoselAnna Lee C. IijimaDr. Loosen 2012 Eiswein Riesling (Mosel)RieslingDr. Loosen
6233962338USMineral and black pepper flavors help this dry and full-boded wine stand out from the pack. It has lightly earthy, smoky aromas and bold fruit flavors supported by firm tannins and acidity.Estate Bottled9025CaliforniaEl DoradoSierra FoothillsJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsLava Cap 2014 Estate Bottled Barbera (El Dorado)BarberaLava Cap
6234062339USThis desirable appellation wine hails from several well-farmed vineyards, including the producer's hillside Wildcat Mountain site in the Petaluma Gap. Apple blossom aromas lead to a taut body of ripe, balanced fruit—an exploration of pineapple and mango that's food-friendly, with high-toned acidity.9025CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneMacRostie 2015 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast)ChardonnayMacRostie
6231762316USThis is a beautiful blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Sanguine, ethereal currant and cranberry are twisted in game and black pepper, the midpalate velvety in texture with a gravelly edge.Page Turner9465CaliforniaOakvilleNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneTextbook 2013 Page Turner Red (Oakville)Bordeaux-style Red BlendTextbook
6231862317ItalyMade with ungrafted 80-year-old vines, this gorgeous wine opens with an enticing bouquet of perfumed berry, fragrant blue flower, baking spice, leather and a whiff of Mediterranean brush. The concentrated enveloping palate is still young but already offers blackberry extract, raspberry jam, licorice, dried sage and tobacco. Firm fine-grained tannins offer age-worthy support and a velvety texture. Drink 2020–2032.Storico94Southern ItalyAglianico del VultureKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeBasilisco 2012 Storico (Aglianico del Vulture)AglianicoBasilisco
6231962318PortugalAs the wine's name indicates, it is made from century old vines, planted by a Burgundian who arrived in Portugal to escape World War One. The result is a wine of immense concentration, dark tannins and beautiful fruit. The vineyard is planted as a field blend, the grapes are fermented in traditional open stone lagares. It is a superb wine that deserves further aging. Drink from 2019.O Fugitivo Vinhas Centenárias9450DãoRoger Voss@vossrogerCasa da Passarella 2013 O Fugitivo Vinhas Centenárias Red (Dão)Portuguese RedCasa da Passarella
6232062319USLuxuriously textured, this wine combines Petite Sirah, the son, with Syrah, its father. The two get along famously, showing a balance of powerfully soft blue fruit, garrigue and a ring of smoke. Its meatiness will impress, spiced as it is in dried herb and anise.Like Father Like Son9448CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneRobert Biale 2013 Like Father Like Son Syrah-Petite Sirah (Napa Valley)Syrah-Petite SirahRobert Biale
6232162320USLeaving its primo estate in the Russian River, the producer travels to a similarly minded site in the heart of the Valley of the Moon, planted partially to mixed blacks. Here, 12% mixed blacks make up the whole, offering a bright and juicy explosion of brambly blackberry, smoked cherry and leathery licorice. The finish is soft and spicy.Bedrock Vineyard9448CaliforniaSonoma ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneLimerick Lane 2014 Bedrock Vineyard Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley)ZinfandelLimerick Lane
6232262321USExotically floral on the nose, the prettiness of this wine follows through on the palate, salty and high in acidity, with a tang of lemon peel and lemon verbena. Focused and fresh, it has body and weight within that context, ultimately finding a balance that persists on the lengthy finish.Dutton Ranch Dutton Hill Vineyard9450CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneLucie 2015 Dutton Ranch Dutton Hill Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)ChardonnayLucie
6232362322ItalyPipe tobacco, spiced plum, underbrush, vanilla, new leather and balsamic aromas jump out of the glass while the juicy delicious palate doles out fleshy black cherry, crushed raspberry, licorice and ground pepper. Firm, velvety and enveloping tannins provide smooth polished support. Drink through 2029.Radici Riserva9480Southern ItalyTaurasiKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeMastroberardino 2009 Radici Riserva (Taurasi)AglianicoMastroberardino
6232462323GermanyThere's a marked tropical richness (think guava and melon) here compared to the producer's other 2015 ausleses. Plump and plush despite it's dainty alcoholic footprint, it lingers lusciously while remaining pert with acidity. Brilliantly balanced and irresistibly sweet, it can be enjoyed now through 2040.Abtsberg Auslese Grosse Lage9460MoselAnna Lee C. IijimaMaximin Grünhäuser 2015 Abtsberg Auslese Grosse Lage Riesling (Mosel)RieslingMaximin Grünhäuser

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