Wine Reviews

6312163120AustriaPlanted with cuttings from many Austrian wine regions, the Aussere Bergen vineyard produces a ripe, full wine, packed with yellow fruits, spice and a feeling of opulence, while always balanced.Aussere Bergen9124NiederösterreichRoger Voss@vossrogerZull 2009 Aussere Bergen Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich)Grüner VeltlinerZull
6312263121ItalyThis is an extremely distinctive and site-specific expression of Barbaresco from the celebrated Roncaglie cru. The wine is characterized by feminine, delicate tones of subtle Indian spice, pressed rose petal, violets and light vanilla or white chocolate. It boasts well-integrated freshness and finely polished tannins.Roncaglie9165PiedmontBarbarescoPoderi Colla 2007 Roncaglie (Barbaresco)NebbioloPoderi Colla
6312363122USAn interesting wine for its moderate alcohol and extreme dryness. Leaner and more structured than a plump Napa Cab, it shows juicy blackberry, currant, mineral and oak flavors that are streamlined and elegant. A bite of alcohol makes this pretty wine balanced and clean through the finish.9148CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastSkyhawk Lane 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles)Cabernet SauvignonSkyhawk Lane
6312463123USContinues a string of successful bottlings of this Cabernet. The flavors are strong but subtle, suggesting blackberries and black currants, with earthier notes of dark chocolate and roasted almonds. Very good, but also pretty tannic. You'll want to cellar this for 5–6 years to let it mellow.Oroppas9155CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaSt. Clement 2007 Oroppas Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonSt. Clement
6312563124USThe fruit is half Sheridan and half Dineen vineyard. Although stylistically a brother to the Stevens Merlot, this has the varietal earmarks of Cabernet Franc – some green, leafy streaks, more spice and sharpness to the tannins, and a definite herbal component. The fruit is an equal but not dominant partner – blackberry, cassis, and black olive, finished with a whiff of very dark chocolate.Franc9130WashingtonYakima ValleyColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Stevens 2008 Franc Cabernet Franc (Yakima Valley)Cabernet FrancStevens
6312663125USA really nice, elegant Chardonnay at a good price. The wine is dry and lightly oaked, showing rich pineapple, peach, vanilla and buttered toast flavors enhanced with crisp acidity. Only 731 cases were produced of this lovely, food-friendly wine.9122CaliforniaEdna ValleyCentral CoastTalley 2008 Chardonnay (Edna Valley)ChardonnayTalley
6312763126USMade with no oak, this pretty wine stars fresh fruit and clean acidity. With orange, honeysuckle, melon, mineral and vanilla flavors, it has a mouthfeel midway between a crisp Sauvignon Blanc and a creamy Chardonnay. Production was low, only 559 cases, but worth a search.Paragon Vineyard9117CaliforniaEdna ValleyCentral CoastTangent 2009 Paragon Vineyard Grenache Blanc (Edna Valley)Grenache BlancTangent
6312863127USTangent makes the best, most consistent unoaked Sauvignon Blanc in California. The 2009 is another classic, offering brilliantly clean, crisp flavors of citrus fruits, green apples and gooseberries. Just beautiful.Paragon Vineyard9113CaliforniaEdna ValleyCentral CoastTangent 2009 Paragon Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Edna Valley)Sauvignon BlancTangent
6312963128USThis Right Bank-styled blend includes 19% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. Despite its high (15.3%) alcohol, it's a meaty, complex wine that drinks much lighter. The berry/cherry fruit flavors are woven into a tapestry of earth, herb and spice, smooth and detailed, and the wine has a mouth-pleasing seamless quality that invites another sip, and another.9126WashingtonWalla Walla Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Dumas Station 2007 Merlot (Walla Walla Valley (WA))MerlotDumas Station
6313063129FranceThe ripe combination of Chenin and Chardonnay gives this always-delicious wine its richness and creamy texture. It is ripe, full-bodied with melon and peach flavors as well as crisper acidity. This limited-production wine is smooth and rich at the end. Drink now.Saphir Brut Vintage9118Loire ValleySaumurRoger Voss@vossrogerBouvet-Ladubay 2012 Saphir Brut Vintage (Saumur)Chenin Blanc-ChardonnayBouvet-Ladubay
6313163130USAn incredibly briny character shows on this wine's nose, with wet sand and even hints of anchovy showing up alongside sour yogurt and salted citrus. It's bouncy on the palate, tingling the tongue, with flavors of nectarine, salty sea water and poached pears.3-D9164CaliforniaSta. Rita HillsCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannBrewer-Clifton 2012 3-D Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills)ChardonnayBrewer-Clifton
6313263131USFresh cut pear drizzled with lemon juice is given warmth by hints of mango and oak on the nose of this Paso white. It's soft and rich on the palate, with tropical elements of banana cream pie cut by apple skin bitterness and citrus pith acidity.9136CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannDaou 2013 Grenache Blanc (Paso Robles)Grenache BlancDaou
6313363132FranceThe light-gold color of this wine shows its maturity. It's a rich wine that is rounded, full and with a touch of honey. With its toasty character and full-bodied character, this is an impressive wine for drinking now.Cuvée 49120Loire ValleyMuscadet Sèvre et MaineRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine de la Pepière 2010 Cuvée 4 (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine)MelonDomaine de la Pepière
6313463133FranceFrom the hot year of 2009, this is a ripe, mature, sun-kissed wine. It has smooth yellow fruit and mango flavors along with a soft and rounded texture. It's naturally rich, full in the mouth and totally ready to drink.Pueri Solis9165Loire ValleyMuscadet Sèvre et MaineRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Luneau-Papin 2009 Pueri Solis (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine)MelonDomaine Luneau-Papin
6313563134FranceFrom basalt rock soil, this is a tightly coiled wine. The wine brings out strong minerality, a firm texture and ripe fruit. A touch of pepper adds spice and a dense character. The wine needs to age; drink from 2017.Terre de Pierre9127Loire ValleyMuscadet Sèvre et MaineRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Luneau-Papin 2013 Terre de Pierre (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine)MelonDomaine Luneau-Papin
6313663135SpainVarietal Garnacha Blanca from Catalonia is a distinct animal, and this is a prize specimen. Waxy and mature on the nose, but with dry scents of peach pit and apricot, this feels full and peachy but also grabby and acidic. Papaya and stone-fruit flavors finish full, pulpy and balanced. Drink through 2017.L'Avi Arrufi9149CataloniaTerra AltaMichael Schachner@wineschachCeller Piñol 2011 L'Avi Arrufi Garnacha Blanca (Terra Alta)Garnacha BlancaCeller Piñol
6313763136USTo call it entry level does not do justice to the quality here—this would be reserve level at many wineries. A generous mix of blueberry and black cherry fruit rolls seamlessly through the fruit-driven core, annotated with barrel notes of cola, coffee and cream.Unfiltered9129OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine J. Christopher 2012 Unfiltered Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirJ. Christopher
6313863137USThis is a well-crafted wine that's dense and delicious in juicy red fruit, black currant, licorice and nutmeg. With much of the fruit sourced from the Alexander Valley, this wine shows a managed level of ripeness and oak aging. Structured and lengthy on the finish, this is a nicely put-together package.Grand Reserve9128CaliforniaSonoma CountySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneKendall-Jackson 2012 Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County)Cabernet SauvignonKendall-Jackson
6313963138ChileRipe and lusty, this is earthy and foresty on the nose, with plenty of oak, olive, eucalyptus and graphite. The palate is saturated almost to the point of being too heavy, but that only means that lush, penetrating, herbal blackberry and cola flavors have a stout base to work with. A toasted finish with some bitterness closes this out. Drink through 2019.Royale Los Lingues Vineyard9126Colchagua ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachKoyle 2012 Royale Los Lingues Vineyard Carmenère (Colchagua Valley)CarmenèreKoyle
6314063139FranceFrom the Château d'Aulnaye vineyard that is part of the Thébaud estate, this wine is still tight and textured, with a strong mineral element as well as crisp green fruits. It is rich with a touch of vanilla smoothing things out. Drink now.Château-Thébaud9128Loire ValleyMuscadet Sèvre et MaineRoger Voss@vossrogerLieubeau 2010 Château-Thébaud (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine)MelonLieubeau
6314163140USDoug Margerum blends fruit from the McGinely, Curtin, Star Lane, Happy Canyon and Grassini vineyards for this ever-popular bottling. Aromas of honeysuckle, green pears and ceanothus blossoms introduce a palate laden with white flowers, poached pears and white peach.Sybarite9121CaliforniaHappy Canyon of Santa BarbaraCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannMargerum 2013 Sybarite Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara)Sauvignon BlancMargerum
6314263141FranceStill young, this wine promises great potential. It has a rich character, full of white fruits that are laced with orange zest and spice. Fresh and crisp while full in the mouth, it will be better in a few months. Drink from 2016.Vieilles Vignes Sur Lie9118Loire ValleyMuscadet Sèvre et MaineRoger Voss@vossrogerGadais Père et Fils 2013 Vieilles Vignes Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine)MelonGadais Père et Fils
6314363142USTaking the best from each individual clonal selection, this blend shows both muscle and finesse. The chunky core of cherry fruit is fringed with orange peel, lifted with crisp acidity, and finished with a light touch of cinnamon. It's drinking well, and can best be enjoyed through 2020.Amalie's Cuvée9150OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Amalie Robert 2011 Amalie's Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirAmalie Robert
6314463143USThe estate-grown, Dijon clone fruit is bursting with flavors of grapefruit, pineapple and Meyer lemon. Barrel fermentation rounds it out a bit and adds suggestions of nut oil to the finish. The relatively low alcohol keeps the acids up and suggests that this is one that could age well up to 2025.Heirloom Cameo9150OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Amalie Robert 2011 Heirloom Cameo Chardonnay (Willamette Valley)ChardonnayAmalie Robert
6314563144FranceLight in color, but rich in fruit, this wine has structure, spice and ripe red cherry fruits that are kept from total exuberance by the layer of young tannin. The wine should age; drink from 2016.9130BeaujolaisMoulin-à-VentRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau des Jacques 2012 Moulin-à-VentGamayChâteau des Jacques
6314663145PortugalThis has great fruits and plenty of structure to go with it. Juicy plum flavors complement the dense tannins, mineral structure and concentrated texture. It's a stylish wine that will develop some more. Drink from 2016.Rede Reserva9114DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerQuinta da Rede 2010 Rede Reserva Red (Douro)Portuguese RedQuinta da Rede
6314763146PortugalFrom the northern Portuguese heartland of Alvarinho, this beautifully ripe and rich wine is packed with intense perfumes of white peach and green apple. Fresh fruit and crisp acidity give a lively, tangy aftertaste. Drink from late 2015.QM9123Vinho VerdeRoger Voss@vossrogerQuintas de Melgaço 2014 QM Alvarinho (Vinho Verde)AlvarinhoQuintas de Melgaço
6314863147ChileHeavy, raisiny, ripe aromas of prune and earthy blackberry set up a chewy, oaky, mildly tannic palate that's fully stuffed with woody, baked, almost malty flavors of blackberry, chocolate and toast. This is a rich, ripe number, with a loamy, toasty finish that shows black licorice and jammy cassis flavors. Drink through 2018.VSC9140Cachapoal ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachSanta Carolina 2011 VSC Red (Cachapoal Valley)Red BlendSanta Carolina
6314963148ItalyDelicate aromas of pressed white flower, tree fruit, citrus and slate lead the nose on this elegant, structured white. The vibrant palate offers juicy yellow peach, Granny Smith apple, nectarine skin and bitter almond alongside crisp acidity. The lingering finish has a mineral accent.Selva9133LombardyLuganaKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeSelva Capuzza 2013 Selva (Lugana)TurbianaSelva Capuzza
6315063149ItalyMade entirely with Trebbiano di Soave, this vibrant white offers enticing aromas of white flower and citrus blossom. The linear palate delivers juicy yellow peach, pear, kiwi and mineral alongside firm acidity.Massifitti9130VenetoVeroneseKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeSuavia 2012 Massifitti Trebbiano (Veronese)TrebbianoSuavia

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