Wine Reviews


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6414164140ItalyThis wine is the white partner to Masi's familiar Campfiorin. In this case, it is the 25% of Verduzzo grapes in the blend that have gone through the drying process known as passito. The 75% of Pinot Grigio adds spice, while the Verduzzo gives great richness and ripeness.Masianco9012Northeastern ItalyDelle VenezieRoger Voss@vossrogerMasi 2002 Masianco White (Delle Venezie)White BlendMasi
6414264141USA smooth, classy Chardonnay, this wine strikes a fine balance between elegance and strength. Framed in toasty oak, it shows off plenty of pretty citrus, pear, apple and herb flavors, finishing clean and long with a mineral edge.Dutton Ranch9029CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaMerryvale 2000 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)ChardonnayMerryvale
6414364142USOak from barrels stars front and center, overshadowing the citrus, melon and fig flavors underneath. Feels great in the mouth, creamy and lush. By summer 2003, it will be better. A blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Sémillon.The Novelist Meritage8916CaliforniaCaliforniaCalifornia OtherM. Cosentino 2000 The Novelist Meritage Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc (California)Semillon-Sauvignon BlancM. Cosentino
6414464143ChileThe nose is rustic, with horse hide, bramble bush and spicy, subdued black fruit. The palate is round and rich, with pure and ripe berry fruit along with some supporting oak. The finish is equally nice, with notes of licorice, coffee and spices.Prima Reserva8912Maipo ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachDe Martino 1999 Prima Reserva Carmenère (Maipo Valley)CarmenèreDe Martino
6414564144USA very good wine while somehow failing to rise to expectations. Is it the vintage? All the elements are there, including ripe fruit flavors enriched with herbal and spicy complexities, generous acids and silky smooth tannins. Yet the wine is curiously New World flashy without offering nuance or depth.Sleepy Hollow Vineyard8950CaliforniaSanta Lucia HighlandsCentral CoastTestarossa 2001 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands)Pinot NoirTestarossa
6414664145ItalyFrom a single vineyard, this exemplary Soave has great intensity and concentration, with flavors of peppers and ripe, green fruits. The wine's long fermentation wine gives it structure and great extraction of flavor.La Froscà8918VenetoSoave ClassicoRoger Voss@vossrogerGini 2001 La Froscà (Soave Classico)White BlendGini
6414764146ItalyThis nicely balanced Pinot Bianco is fresh and crisp, blending peach, apple and grapefruit aromas and flavors together into a cohesive whole. Plump on the midpalate, yet steely and food-friendly on the finish.8925Northeastern ItalyVenezia GiuliaJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzJermann 2001 Pinot Bianco (Venezia Giulia)Pinot BiancoJermann
6414864147USShows unusual depth and finesse for a Sauvignon Blanc, with scads of palate impressions ranging from lemondrop candy, zesty wintergreen, apricot nectar and white pepper. Yet it's dry and smooth, with crisp acids.8914CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaAndretti 2001 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley)Sauvignon BlancAndretti
6414964148FranceThe tannins are linear and direct in this otherwise fruity wine. Along with dark tannins, it is also rich with warm red fruits. The acidity still shows strongly and suggests that the wine needs time. Drink from 2020.Feusselottes Premier Cru9281BurgundyChambolle-MusignyRoger Voss@vossrogerHenri de Villamont 2014 Feusselottes Premier Cru (Chambolle-Musigny)Pinot NoirHenri de Villamont
6415064149USFrom a site with elevation rising as high as 2,200 feet, this wine delivers tremendous complexity and minerality, the grapes from volcanic soils. Meaty, with a wisp of smoky char, it's ripe and full bodied in cherry and cassis, nuances of bay leaf and rocky tannin.Hawkeye Mountain9255CaliforniaAlexander ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneJackson Estate 2012 Hawkeye Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley)Cabernet SauvignonJackson Estate
6415164150USSourced from the Whistling Ridge Vineyard, this was previously bottled under the winemaker's Matello label. It's packed with apple and pear fruit flavors, supported with ample acidity. Smooth and fleshy, its 50% new oak remains subtly integrated, with highlights of caramel and butter peeking out. It's well balanced, but you'll note that there are tartaric crystals (utterly harmless) clinging to the cork, suggesting that it was not cold stabilized. Drink soon.Richard's Cuvée9236OregonRibbon RidgeWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Goodfellow 2013 Richard's Cuvée Chardonnay (Ribbon Ridge)ChardonnayGoodfellow
6415264151ItalyA tribute to the late Angelo Rocca, this delicious wine opens with aromas suggesting leather, truffle, mature black-skinned berry, fragrant blue flower and a whiff of menthol. The smooth, full-bodied palate offers mouthfuls of red cherry, juicy raspberry, and a note of cake spice while fine-grained tannins provide polished support.Angelo92105PiedmontBarbarescoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeAlbino Rocca 2013 Angelo (Barbaresco)NebbioloAlbino Rocca
6415364152ItalyThis full-bodied red opens with aromas of underbrush, raspberry compote and dark baking spice. The brooding palate offers mature black cherry, white pepper, cinnamon, grilled herb and licorice alongside a backbone of assertive tannins. Drink 2020–2028.Bussia Romirasco92100PiedmontBaroloKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeAldo Conterno 2012 Bussia Romirasco (Barolo)NebbioloAldo Conterno
6415464153AustraliaA step up from the solid 2013, this vintage offers more vivid raspberry fruit and cracked pepper. It's a bit jammy, but then some dried spices emerge on the finish, reining things in and imparting welcome complexity. Drink now–2023.Warboys Vineyard9265South AustraliaMcLaren ValeJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzAngove 2014 Warboys Vineyard Grenache (McLaren Vale)GrenacheAngove
6415564154USThis is a real cherry bomb, showing terrific concentration and purity of fruit. Those vibrant flavors come in a swath of cola, then dive into a compact finish that leaves a residual hint of chocolate seltzer. This wine seems to be slightly bottle shocked (though it was rested for some weeks after being shipped) and may well deserve a higher score with more bottle age.Arcus Estate92100OregonDundee HillsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Archery Summit 2014 Arcus Estate Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills)Pinot NoirArchery Summit
6415664155USAt first this seems sculpted in a feminine style, meaning elegant, graceful and light on its feet. It's a complete and satisfying wine, with strawberry, raspberry and cola flavors intertwined. Some tougher tannins show up in the finish, suggesting that a few more years of bottle age may add both length and further complexity.Renegade Ridge Estate9285OregonDundee HillsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Archery Summit 2014 Renegade Ridge Estate Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills)Pinot NoirArchery Summit
6415764156USThis full-bodied but stealthy and deep wine looks very dark in color. It has moderate ripe fruit and spice aromas, but doesn't really show its cards until the flavors almost explode with boysenberry and blackberry jam, and nuances of wood smoke and dark chocolate hit the palate. It has great intensity, layers of flavor and a nice, lingering finish.9216CaliforniaEl DoradoSierra FoothillsJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsBoeger 2014 Primitivo (El Dorado)PrimitivoBoeger
6415864157USThis is one of the harder grapes to tame in California, yet those wanting to walk the razor blade balance between ripeness and freshness should copy this Josh Jensen version. Candied nectarine, white peach, cherimoya and jasmine show on the ripe, honeyed nose, but then the palate restrains that exuberance with chamomile, sour pear peels and sea salt flavors.9234CaliforniaMt. HarlanCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannCalera 2014 Viognier (Mt. Harlan)ViognierCalera
6415964158PortugalFrom a vineyard of 100-year-old vines discovered during building works in the city of Almeirim, this beautiful wine is ripe with tropical mango and pineapple fruits and an intense rich character. The concentration is balanced with pear and apple acidity, giving a fine wine that is now ready to drink.Monte Cascas9240TejoRoger Voss@vossrogerCasca Wines 2011 Monte Cascas Fernão Pires (Tejo)Fernão PiresCasca Wines
6416064159USThis wine is big in every dimension, from an unusually deep gold color, to a smoky, oaky, toasted-baguette aroma to almost sweet flavors like poached pear that are backed by more buttery, smoky nuances and surprisingly good acidity. While it makes a big first impression, further sips bring out even more complexity, layers and length.Jewel Collection Series Estate Reserve9240CaliforniaLivermore ValleyCentral CoastJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsRuby Hill Winery 2013 Jewel Collection Series Estate Reserve Chardonnay (Livermore Valley)ChardonnayRuby Hill Winery
6416164160USViolet, lavender, mulberry, black cherry, cola, graphite and a touch of sarsaparilla lead the nose on this bottling from this vineyard planted in 1997. Tart cranberry, pencil lead, dried orange rind, bay leaf, fennel and bay leaf all show on the palate, which is tremendously grippy and offers strong depth way into the finish.La Rinconada Vineyard9268CaliforniaSta. Rita HillsCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannSanford 2013 La Rinconada Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills)Pinot NoirSanford
6416264161USLight, lithe and elusive, this wine begs for time in the glass to develop, and it changes as it goes, maintaining a persistence of exotic Asian spice and citrus, stony minerality and a dash of lemon peel. Green apple also shines through, the texture of the wine crisp yet complex. Drink now through 2023.Estate9245CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneStony Hill 2013 Estate Chardonnay (Napa Valley)ChardonnayStony Hill
6416364162USDaffodils, lemon rinds and yellow apples rise on the nose of this bottling like a delicate flower petal. The palate is also finely toned, light in style and easy to enjoy, with hints of limestone, sea salt, Meyer lemon and Gravenstein apple.Estate Bottled9227CaliforniaArroyo Grande ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannTalley 2014 Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Arroyo Grande Valley)ChardonnayTalley
6416464163ArgentinaThis wine needs air in order to get at its dark-fruit aromas. In the mouth, this blend of Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cab Franc is ripe but smacks down hard with tannins. Flavors of blackberry, cassis and herbs end with complex notes of graphite and chalk. This gets better the more time you spend with it. Drink through 2024.Legado IV Siglos9239Mendoza ProvinceMendozaMichael Schachner@wineschachDon Manuel Villafañe 2009 Legado IV Siglos Red (Mendoza)Bordeaux-style Red BlendDon Manuel Villafañe
6416564164ItalyFig, stewed prune, sun baked soil, camphor and exotic spice aromas lead the nose. On the palate, close-grained tannins support dried black cherry, orange zest, grilled herb and clove that leave to a rather austere finish. Drink 2018–2023.Rombone Elisa9247PiedmontBarbarescoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeAda Nada 2012 Rombone Elisa (Barbaresco)NebbioloAda Nada
6416664165AustraliaThe Angove family has made a real commitment to its prestige wine portfolio, and this Shiraz represents that new level of quality. It's ripe without being over the top, marrying ripeness and supple tannins with savory notes of tar and espresso. Drink now–2025, possibly beyond.The Medhyk Old Vine9295South AustraliaMcLaren ValeJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzAngove 2012 The Medhyk Old Vine Shiraz (McLaren Vale)ShirazAngove
6416764166AustraliaSmoky, savory and plummy, this wine boasts ample weight and a plush, creamy texture. This rich, concentrated wine finishes with great length and silky tannins.Warboys Vineyard9265South AustraliaMcLaren ValeJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzAngove 2013 Warboys Vineyard Shiraz (McLaren Vale)ShirazAngove
6416864167ItalyIntense, enticing aromas of violet, rose and leather lead the nose along with an earthy whiff of game. The palate is still young and primary, but already offers red berry, licorice, white pepper and cinnamon. Tightly wound, assertive tannins and bright acidity provide balance. Drink after 2020.Bussia9270PiedmontBaroloKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeAttilio Ghisolfi 2012 Bussia (Barolo)NebbioloAttilio Ghisolfi
6416964168PortugalProduced from Aveleda's Quinta da Aguieira, this is a blend of typical Portuguese white grapes with a dash of Chardonnay. From old vines, it has concentration and a rich texture that is cut by fragrant acidity. There is a ripe feel to this impressive wine, generous and full of fruit. Drink now.Reserva da Familia9220BairradaRoger Voss@vossrogerAveleda 2014 Reserva da Familia White (Bairrada)Portuguese WhiteAveleda
6417064169AustraliaMeaty and savory, this is surprisingly full-bodied and supple for a Yarra Valley Syrah. Blackberry and spice notes balance out the meatiness, imparting a bright, mouthwatering juiciness to the long finish.Under Woods Steels Creek9255VictoriaYarra ValleyJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzBen Haines 2013 Under Woods Steels Creek Syrah (Yarra Valley)SyrahBen Haines

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