Wine Reviews


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6738167380USFrom the Muscat Canelli grape; it’s a very sweet (10.8% residual sugar) wine balanced by quite high acidity. Aromas and flavors are distinctly apricot and buttercream. Pretty texture, creamy smooth and velvety. Not especially complex, but delicious, clean and well made. Try with vanilla ice cream, pound cake, a sweet fruit soufflé or the ripest fruits.Moscato Allegro8812CaliforniaCaliforniaCalifornia OtherMartin & Weyrich 1999 Moscato Allegro Muscat Canelli (California)Muscat CanelliMartin & Weyrich
6738267381USToasty and creamy, with just a touch of earthy mustiness on the nose; this is like a star just starting to do an elegant fade. There’s tangy fruit with a touch of oxidized maturity, a full texture, but a very faint bead. Good elements abound here and the wine still displays class, but it seems like it might have been brighter beforeL'Ermitage8843CaliforniaAnderson ValleyRoederer Estate 1994 L'Ermitage (Anderson Valley)Champagne BlendRoederer Estate
6738367382FranceA rich nose of honey, marmalade and yeast opens to full apple and lemon-custard flavors. There’s fullness, but also a less-than-sparkling quality that’s a little disappointing considering the Krug pedigree. Medium-weight, it finishes with buttery, oaky complexity but not the length you’d expect.Brut88230ChampagneChampagneKrug 1988 Brut (Champagne)Champagne BlendKrug
6738467383FranceA reserve selection that’s seen some barrel aging, but not too much. The toasty, chocolaty oak is hardly noticeable under a firm wallop of cherry-berry fruit that turns velvety on the palate. Some softly bitter tannins creep in on the finish, letting you know that the best is yet to come. Pick up a few bottles and drink them over the next couple of years.Prestige des Gibelins8815Rhône ValleyCostières de NîmesJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzChâteau Mas Neuf 1998 Prestige des Gibelins Red (Costières de Nîmes)Rhône-style Red BlendChâteau Mas Neuf
6738567384FranceA very Grenache-like wine, with red berries, rhubarb, meat and spices on the nose. Earth and anise notes in the mouth add interest, and there is a fine fruit-acid balance here. Sweet berries, a strong mineral component and fine tannic structure shine on the solid finish. Tight now, it will show better in two or three years.Les Laurentides8816Rhône ValleyCôtes du RhôneDomaine Gramenon 1998 Les Laurentides Red (Côtes du Rhône)Rhône-style Red BlendDomaine Gramenon
6738667385FranceThere's a lot of richness in this wine, which has a pale pink color. You can smell fresh strawberries as well as a yeasty note and something earthy and mulchy. It drinks quite dry and crisp, with a real bite of acidity and some pretty raspberry flavors. It turns rich and complex on the finish.Brut Rosé8829ChampagneChampagnePannier NV Brut Rosé (Champagne)Champagne BlendPannier
6738767386ItalyAnother fine effort from this house, which has proven its consistency from one year to the next. It offers a lovely, clean, apple-like nose, crisp acidity, perfect balance, a medium body and a long apple-and-peach close.8815VenetoSoave Classico SuperiorePieropan 1999 Soave Classico SuperioreWhite BlendPieropan
6738867387ItalyLoaded with fresh pineapple and grapefruit from beginning to end, this zestful Sardinian white delights throughout. A real waker-upper; it’s an admirable foil for any grilled fish but would be especially so for grilled lobster.La Cala8811Sicily & SardiniaSardiniaSella & Mosca 1999 La Cala White (Sardinia)White BlendSella & Mosca
6738967388FranceBlueberries and blackberries are the dominant themes here, with some smoky notes playing a supporting role. Bright, tart and fruity, this doesn’t appear to have the depth for aging. But it is an immensely attractive wine for early quaffing. There are some slightly drying tannins on the finish, so try it with rich or fatty foods for best effect.8813Rhône ValleyCrozes-HermitageJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzDomaine des Entrefaux 1999 Crozes-HermitageSyrahDomaine des Entrefaux
6739067389FranceKrug prefers to call this wine multivintage rather than nonvintage, but that doesn’t change what it is. Deep yeast, butter and cider aromas lead into full caramel and apple flavors on the weighty palate; it turns a bit sweet-tart on the finish. Perhaps made with juice from some weaker vintages of the early 1990s, it’s nonetheless very good.Grande Cuvée Brut88160ChampagneChampagneKrug NV Grande Cuvée Brut (Champagne)Champagne BlendKrug
6739167390FranceThis intriguing wine displays an almost fumé-style smoky minerality on the nose, followed by flavors of pear and toast. It's a focused, medium-bodied blend of 50% Marsanne and 50% Roussanne, with a finish that won't quit.Vieilles Vignes9032Rhône ValleySaint-PérayJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzTardieu-Laurent 2007 Vieilles Vignes White (Saint-Péray)Rhône-style White BlendTardieu-Laurent
6739267391AustraliaA rich, savory style of Shiraz, with bold blackberry and black olive flavors that work easily together, framed by vanilla and soft, dusty tannins. Drink it over the next few years.Pillar Box Reserve9020South AustraliaPadthawayJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzHenry's Drive Vignerons 2007 Pillar Box Reserve Shiraz (Padthaway)ShirazHenry's Drive Vignerons
6739367392USStainless-steel fermented, technically off-dry but still quite citrusy and bracing, this continues a string of excellent Rieslings from Anam Cara. The fruit flavors blend seamlessly, invoking apples and pears, melons and peaches. A sense of Meyer lemon custard permeates the palate, concentrated and delicious.Nicholas Estate9022OregonChehalem MountainsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Anam Cara 2008 Nicholas Estate Riesling (Chehalem Mountains)RieslingAnam Cara
6739467393USA very nice Cab made in the Paso style. It's soft, dry and spicy, a round, supple wine with flavors of black currants, raspberries and cedar. Attractive and classy.Lakeside Ranch9024CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastBianchi 2006 Lakeside Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles)Cabernet SauvignonBianchi
6739567394FranceElegant as so often from this estate, the wine rounded, relatively soft and fruity. Red berry fruits dominate, with just the right amount of fine extraction. For medium-term aging.90BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau La Tour Figeac 2007 Saint-ÉmilionBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau La Tour Figeac
6739667395FranceThe wine has developed well, with plenty of weight, but the fruit seems a little diffuse, soft, open in character. It's masking the tannin core, a wine that opens slowly and carefully.9055BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Pavie Macquin 2007 Saint-ÉmilionBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Pavie Macquin
6739767396FranceThere is good density here, with impressive tannins and very dry core of structure. The wine has weight, with cranberry and red berry flavors shining through. Always, the freshness is right up front.9025BordeauxMédocRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Potensac 2007 MédocBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Potensac
6739867397FranceAged in a combination of one- and two-year-old oak and stainless steel, Guigal's 2007 Saint-Joseph is round in the mouth yet minerally at the same time, with graphite notes supporting the voluminous pear and melon fruit, right through the lengthy finish.9030Rhône ValleySaint-JosephJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzE. Guigal 2007 Saint-JosephRhône-style White BlendE. Guigal
6739967398USIt's pronounced tung-GEE and was formerly known as Chehalem Mountain vineyards. As is often the case with this AVA, it has substantial tannins and a firm, compact structure that bodes well for cellaring. The fruit mixes cherry, pomegranate and hints of banana, while the barrel flavors add some toast and butter.Tuenge9050OregonChehalem MountainsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Erath 2006 Tuenge Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains)Pinot NoirErath
6740067399USThough relatively young (planted in 2001) this Dundee Hills vineyard can deliver the goods. This is full, juicy, packed with ripe fruits, moderately deep in color, and limned with sharp, herbal, astringent tannins. It could profit from a bit more bottle age, to take the edge off the green tea in the finish.Lillie's9050OregonDundee HillsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Erath 2007 Lillie's Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills)Pinot NoirErath
6740167400PortugalAragonês (Tinta Roriz or Tempranillo) is given intense power in the Alentejo. It has sold fruits, black cherry and spice flavors, with a big shoulder of tannins and vivid acidity. A wine for aging—3 to 4 years.Aragonês da Peceguina9050AlentejanoRoger Voss@vossrogerHerdade da Malhadinha Nova 2007 Aragonês da Peceguina Aragonês (Alentejano)AragonêsHerdade da Malhadinha Nova
6740267401ItalyThis is a very attractive and well-constructed blend of Corvina, Oseleta and Cabernet Franc with generous aromas of spice, cherry and blackberry. There's also a hint of forest floor and leather at the back and the wine imparts a bright, polished feel in the mouth.Crearo della Conca d'Oro9027VenetoVeroneseTommasi 2007 Crearo della Conca d'Oro Red (Veronese)Red BlendTommasi
6740367402ItalyRich, thick and impressive on all fronts, this Dolcetto from Piedmont offers a smooth texture, creamy consistency and loads of aromatic intensity. You'll get black fruit, spice, chocolate, cola and cedar. Both complexity and elegance are at hand and the wine is dense, modern and long-lasting.Maioli9025PiedmontDolcetto di DoglianiAnna Maria Abbona 2007 Maioli (Dolcetto di Dogliani)DolcettoAnna Maria Abbona
6740467403FranceAn impressively intense wine, concentrated and solid. The fruits are firm and tannic, with a new wood element that seems well in balance. A good success for the year.9030BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Grand Mayne 2007 Saint-ÉmilionBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Grand Mayne
6740567404FranceA subtly wood aged wine, the white fruit flavor giving an extra dimension with a touch of honey. It has all the direct, delicious fruit of 2007, the wine then rounded out with nutmeg and soft acidity.Cuvée Julien9021BordeauxGravesRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Magneau 2007 Cuvée Julien (Graves)Bordeaux-style White BlendChâteau Magneau
6740667405FranceA smooth, polished wine, with acidity, sweet fruit and a range of dusty tannins, with acidity. This is an accomplished, delicious wine that is developing fast, and seems only for medium-term aging.9060BordeauxPessac-LéognanRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Smith Haut Lafitte 2007 Pessac-LéognanBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Smith Haut Lafitte
6740767406FranceA noteworthy effort made in widely available commercial quantities, Guigal's '07 CdR Blanc offers scents of pineapple and pear, flavors that include hints of white chocolate, a reasonably rich mouthfeel and a long, dry, concentrated finish with just a hint of honey.9014Rhône ValleyCôtes du RhôneJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzE. Guigal 2007 White (Côtes du Rhône)Rhône-style White BlendE. Guigal
6740867407GreeceThis wine showcases the native Greek variety Robola beautifully, with its crisp, clean citrus aromas and flavors and minerally/sea salt spin. The wine has a fresh quality but offers layers of lemon and orange. The finish is like a spray of the sea on the palate. Pair with seafood and light salads.9018CephaloniaSusan Kostrzewa@suskostrzewaGentilini 2008 Robola (Cephalonia)RobolaGentilini
6740967408USThis is a big, strong, exuberant Zindandel that shows Dry Creek's briary, brambly personality at its best. It's a dry, full-bodied, tannic wine, with flavors of blackberries, cherries and currants. Black pepper, star anise and cinnamon provide the exotic spices. It's quite a good, rich Zinfandel at a very good price.9022CaliforniaDry Creek ValleySonomaPeterson 2006 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley)ZinfandelPeterson
6741067409USA lovely counterpoint to Phelps Creek's estate reserve Chardonnay, this comes from just across the river, sourced from a vineyard on the Washington side of this two-state AVA. It got the full malolactic, fermented in French oak treatment, and shows plenty of pleasing barrel toast and spice. The fruit mixes hints of peach and melon with a lemon drop core, and finishes with a lick of butterscotch.Celilo Vineyard9024OregonColumbia Gorge (OR)Oregon OtherPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Phelps Creek 2008 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Gorge (OR))ChardonnayPhelps Creek

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