Wine Reviews


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7101171010USFrom cool Green Valley in this cool vintage comes this translucently colored young Pinot Noir. It's silky and light in the mouth, but enormously complex, with spicy cherry, raspberry, cola, licorice, datenut, fig and soy sauce flavors that are heightened and brightened by crisp acidity. Thoroughly enjoyable now, and should develop for up to six years.Graham Family Vineyard9450CaliforniaGreen ValleySonomaLoring Wine Company 2006 Graham Family Vineyard Pinot Noir (Green Valley)Pinot NoirLoring Wine Company
7101271011FranceInitially, this seems soft and superripe. But the acidity that shows through balances the black cherry jam flavors, and the touch of mint gives a delicious edge. The aftertaste brings back juicy, ripe fruit.94BordeauxPomerolRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau la Fleur-Pétrus 2005 PomerolBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau la Fleur-Pétrus
7101371012FranceExtravagantly rich, this is dense and supersweet initially, just balanced with acidity. The botrytis dryness is really not here at this stage, but with its elegant creamy texture, wood flavors still very present. This is still at the very beginning of its development.94BordeauxSauternesRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau la Tour Blanche 2005 SauternesBordeaux-style White BlendChâteau la Tour Blanche
7101471013FranceHugely concentrated and packed with tannins, this wine shows considerable amounts of dark, extracted fruit. It wins out on impressive power, driving the fruit through the tannins, giving great richness.94BordeauxSaint-JulienRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Léoville Poyferré 2005 Saint-JulienBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Léoville Poyferré
7101571014FranceDespite its core of strength and power and obvious aging ability, this is already a delicious wine, with mint aromas, ripe fruit masking the solid tannins. This estate has been on a roll for several years, and this 2005 shows why.94BordeauxPauillacRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Pontet-Canet 2005 PauillacBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Pontet-Canet
7101671015FranceYou get both apricots and honeyed botrytis aromas that are followed through by a dry core, very full-bodied with richness, the sweetness of the yellow jam fruits, apricots and mangoes gliding over the palate. Delicious, and certainly ageworthy.94BordeauxSauternesRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Rieussec 2005 SauternesBordeaux-style White BlendChâteau Rieussec
7101771016FranceSurprisingly dry, this has richness rather than sweetness, and intense, powerful botrytis. The honey is intensely perfumed, along with baked apples and spice. Certainly a long-aging wine.9440BordeauxBarsacRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Coutet 2005 BarsacBordeaux-style White BlendChâteau Coutet
7101871017FranceThis tastes of great Cabernet Sauvignon, with its black currant, cedar and herbs and fresh, juicy acidity. It is as fresh as it is rich, but it has a structure of dense tannins that balances the wine. This is one of the best wines from Gruaud-Larose for several years.94BordeauxSaint-JulienRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Gruaud Larose 2005 Saint-JulienBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Gruaud Larose
7101971018FranceVery straight, firm, a wine that seems to be developing slowly. The blackberry fruits are impressive, rich and pure, and the tannins form a dense core of darkness. The wood is currently showing too strongly, but the fruit will certainly open out in a year or so. An impressive wine, but it needs time.93BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau La Tour Figeac 2005 Saint-ÉmilionBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau La Tour Figeac
7102071019USSineann has a stellar record with Cabs from Oregon and Washington State. Now they're making a Napa Cab, from a tiny vineyard in the Oak Knoll District. They've brought their Bordeaux-inspired vision to California, producing a structured wine brimming with tannins and acids, yet with rewarding currant, mocha and smoky oak flavors.Lazare Vineyards9364CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaSineann 2006 Lazare Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonSineann
7102171020FrancePerhaps not the most open and generous of wines, but in a style that has become typical of Magdelaine, this wears its austerity, tannins and dry core proudly. But, because it is 2005, the wine is deliciously perfumed, and the bright cherry flavors are enticing. For aging over 10 years at least.93BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Magdelaine 2005 Saint-ÉmilionBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Magdelaine
7102271021FranceSuperrich, but it works because of its mouthwatering acidity. The white fruit flavors are verging on tropical, the spice and new wood are here, but finely judged. And then there is a delicious green, herbaceous finish, which makes the wine both rich and lively.93BordeauxPessac-LéognanRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Pape Clément 2004 Pessac-LéognanBordeaux-style White BlendChâteau Pape Clément
7102371022FranceThis sleeping beauty of a chateau is showing signs of awakening. With its great terroir, it deserves to make wine like this 2005, dense, perfumed, very ripe, powered with sweet, purple fruit and juicy flavors. It will develop relatively quickly, but then should age over many years.93BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Trottevieille 2005 Saint-ÉmilionBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Trottevieille
7102471023USHere's a Cabernet producer to keep your eyes on. The winemaker is Kian Tavakoli, who earned his stripes at Opus One and Clos du Val. The wine is sourced from three top vineyards, including To Kalon. It's a very ambitious effort, one that defines great Napa Cab. Softly tannic now in its youth, the blackberry, currant and smoky oak flavors are delicious and complex, offering waves of ever-changing nuances. Should develop well for several years.9365CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaDamian Rae 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonDamian Rae
7102571024USBrilliant Chardonnay, compulsively drinkable. You'll find a fabulous array of flavors, ranging from pineapples, mangoes and limes to lees- and oak-influenced smoke and creamy vanilla. There's also a juicy streak of crisp acidity and a flinty tang of minerals in the finish. Very fine.9325CaliforniaMount HarlanCentral CoastCalera 2006 Chardonnay (Mount Harlan)ChardonnayCalera
7102671025FranceThe predominance of Cabernet Sauvignon in Figeac has won out in 2005. It shows in the delicious black currant fruits and very fresh, vibrant acidity. The tannins, curiously, are less apparent—maybe all that fruit overwhelms them. Only on the finish is there some austerity and firmness.93BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Figeac 2005 Saint-ÉmilionBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Figeac
7102771026FranceClassic Sauternes, treading the fine line between sweetness and elegance. Initially, it seems to be dominated by the botrytis, but then sweet fruits also show, with ripe yellow fruits, honey and almonds, touched with citrus. As it develops, the wine will become richer and more intense.93110BordeauxSauternesRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Lafaurie-Peyraguey 2005 SauternesBordeaux-style White BlendChâteau Lafaurie-Peyraguey
7102871027USAn unusual blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, with a splash of Merlot, this is a beautiful wine. It's also a young one, brimming with tight, youthful tannins that give it a lockdown astringency. But the cassis, cherry liqueur and cedar flavors are impressively deep and complex, and should ride out six to eight years of cellaring.Seis Primas9345CaliforniaStags Leap DistrictNapaIlsley 2004 Seis Primas Red (Stags Leap District)Bordeaux-style Red BlendIlsley
7102971028FranceBig wood, big fruit—there are no half measures here. The wine is spicy from the tannins and wood, the fruit is densely black with red berry tinges, and the power is evident throughout. This wine has weight.93BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Grand Mayne 2005 Saint-ÉmilionBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Grand Mayne
7103071029SpainPlump, fleshy and colorful, which is really the most you should expect from an under-$10, cutely packaged wine like this. The variety is Tempranillo, and while it's sort of bulky and roasted, it offers a ton of soft blackberry aromas and flavors along with cassis and kirsch. Broad with some faux-butter flavors to the finish.869Northern SpainVino de la Tierra de Castilla y LeónMichael Schachner@wineschachVizorro 2007 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León)TempranilloVizorro
7103171030ItalyThis Rosso Piceno Superiore (made with 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese) opens with a hint of cooked vegetable backed by dense blackberries and cherry marmalade. The tannins are slightly astringent but the wine also offers good freshness too.Villa Prandone Marinus8616Central ItalyRosso Piceno SuperioreIl Conte 2006 Villa Prandone Marinus (Rosso Piceno Superiore)Red BlendIl Conte
7103271031ArgentinaToast, lemon peel, apple and butter are the opening aromas, and they are followed by solid but pedestrian peach, apricot, melon and pear flavors. Big in the mouth, with modest acidity. Thus, while it's holding firm now, our advice is to get at it soon.8617OtherZonda ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachXumek 2008 Chardonnay (Zonda Valley)ChardonnayXumek
7103371032AustraliaIn the crowd-pleasing style that is the hallmark of the brand, this good value bottling shows bold vanilla and coconut aromas overlaying strawberry and cherry fruit. Raspberry coulis dominates the palate which offers just the faintest tannic grip. For near-term consumption.The Reserve8611Australia OtherSouth Eastern AustraliaYellow Tail 2006 The Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (South Eastern Australia)Cabernet SauvignonYellow Tail
7103471033AustraliaWith its warm and fuzzy nose of vanilla, buttered toast and freshly cut apples, this is a wine that's easy to like. The moderately intense palate shows some candied orange peel notes and fades to a moderate finish infused with lemon balm.8612Australia OtherSouth Eastern AustraliaMcWilliam's Hanwood Estate 2006 Chardonnay (South Eastern Australia)ChardonnayMcWilliam's Hanwood Estate
7103571034USFruit and oak are the duo that star in this rich, forward wine. The flavors of peaches and cream, pineapple meringue pie, butterscotch, smoke and vanilla will appeal to fans of luscious California Chardonnays.Olivet Lane8624CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaPellegrini 2006 Olivet Lane Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)ChardonnayPellegrini
7103671035USDoes a good job at expressing ripe, cool-climate Chardonnay character at a fair price. Creamy and smooth, it shows peach, pear, buttered toast and vanilla flavors, with a spicy finish.8615CaliforniaSonoma CountySonomaRodney Strong 2007 Chardonnay (Sonoma County)ChardonnayRodney Strong
7103771036AustraliaTree bark and deep woods notes mix with plum notes for an intriguing opener, yielding to a palate with plummy, leathery flavors. Overall, it's a bit lean, but the finish shows admirable length and mouthwatering acidity.Lioness8625Western AustraliaGreat SouthernPlantagenet 2005 Lioness Shiraz-Viognier (Great Southern)Shiraz-ViognierPlantagenet
7103871037USVery soft in the modern style, with flavors of melted milk chocolate, black currants, black cherry jam and black pepper. Could use greater tannin and acid structure.Villa Andriana Vineyard8634CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaSummers 2006 Villa Andriana Vineyard Zinfandel (Napa Valley)ZinfandelSummers
7103971038ItalyFragrant and floral, this white blend of Trebbiano, Pecorino and Passerina from the Marche offers stone fruit, green melon and honeysuckle. The wine has a clean and refreshing quality that promises an easy pairing with spicy Asian foods.Villa Aurato Prandone86Central ItalyFalerio dei Colli AscolaniIl Conte 2007 Villa Aurato Prandone White (Falerio dei Colli Ascolani)White BlendIl Conte
7104071039USQuite an impressive effort. The dense purple hue promises much, as do the intense notes of grilled meat and coconut on the nose. The palate delivers, with complex black fruit aromas and wet earth flavors leading to a long, lush finish. A year or two in the cellar will give the American oak a chance to integrate but drink up before 2011.8615IdahoIndian Creek 2006 SyrahSyrahIndian Creek

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