Wine Reviews


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7323173230USThe less expensive of the winery's two Pinot Gris, this is in some respects the better wine. Excellent focus pulls crisp flavors of pear, lemon curd and flinty mineral into sharp resolution, and appealing minerality gives the acidity a resonant texture. It all resolves in a lovely, creamy finish.Daisy9220OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Antiquum Farm 2014 Daisy Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley)Pinot GrisAntiquum Farm
7323273231ItalyFragrant and polished, this offers enticing aromas of red berry, rose, eucalyptus and a hint of anise. On the radiant palate, notes of white pepper and grilled herb accent juicy sour cherry and crushed raspberry. Glossy tannins provide the silky framework. Drink through 2022.Bric Aut92PiedmontRoeroKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeGenereaj 2012 Bric Aut (Roero)NebbioloGenereaj
7323373232ItalyMature dark-skinned berry, leather, forest floor, eucalyptus and dark cooking spice aromas come together in the glass. The delicious palate doles out juicy black cherry, blackberry, white pepper, clove and licorice alongside round, chewy tannins.9230PiedmontBarbera d'Alba SuperioreKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeBrezza 2012 Barbera d'Alba SuperioreBarberaBrezza
7323473233AustraliaOwner-winemaker Tod Dexter and his wife Debbie planted their first vines in 1987, making them reasonably mature for the region. The result is a medium-bodied restrained yet silky and seductive Pinot Noir. Black cherry, cola, cedar and spice elements combine easily on the nose and palate, then linger elegantly on the finish. Drink now–2020.9250VictoriaMornington PeninsulaJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzDexter 2012 Pinot Noir (Mornington Peninsula)Pinot NoirDexter
7323573234USThe producer's first release from this vineyard site, and 100% varietal, this is a sultry wine, generously aromatic in cinnamon and clove. Spicy, soft and elegant, it also offers cassis and currant, finishing in earthy waves that end lean.Winfield Vineyard9280CaliforniaCalistogaNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneDavies 2012 Winfield Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Calistoga)Cabernet SauvignonDavies
7323673235ItalyAromas of dried rose, mature berry and dark kitchen spice lead the nose on this full-bodied wine. The palate offers more spice than fruit richness, with dried wild cherry, licorice and black pepper, while firm refined tannins provide the framework. It's a great effort for this hot vintage. Drink 2017–2024.Vigna Elena Riserva9284PiedmontBaroloKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeElvio Cogno 2009 Vigna Elena Riserva (Barolo)NebbioloElvio Cogno
7323773236USJust one barrel was made, all 777 clone and aged in 100% new French oak. Extra concentration and darker fruit flavors of blackberry and black cherry are the payoff. It's a wine resonant with complex streaks of mineral and steel.Luxuria9275OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Antiquum Farm 2013 Luxuria Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirAntiquum Farm
7323873237USA reserve-level, barrel-fermented cuvée, this has a fresh and creamy mouthfeel. It blends crisp tree fruits with bracing minerality, and finishes lightly with a pat of butter.Casteel9260OregonEola-Amity HillsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Bethel Heights 2013 Casteel Chardonnay (Eola-Amity Hills)ChardonnayBethel Heights
7323973238USInspired by “The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy,” this blend of 49% Syrah, 46% Mourvèdre and 5% Petite Sirah shows smoky blackberry, condensed violet and bacon fat on the nose. A sip unleashes mouthcoating flavors, from rich blackberry to tart plum skins, with lots of smoked plum and a touch of asphalt as well.Forty Two9242CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannBrecon Estate 2013 Forty Two Red (Paso Robles)Red BlendBrecon Estate
7324073239FranceAs it ages, this wine's color becomes deeper and more golden. The palate has lost its early acidity and gained richer tropical fruit, honey and layers of botrytis. It will always have a light touch with a crisp texture that underlies the riper fruits and sweetness. Drink from 2017.Gouttes de Soleil9226Southwest FrancePacherenc du Vic BilhRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau de Gayon 2009 Gouttes de Soleil (Pacherenc du Vic Bilh)Gros and Petit MansengChâteau de Gayon
7324173240ItalyEnticing aromas of rose, strawberry and baking spice meld together in the glass while the creamy, delicious palate doles out juicy wild cherry, black raspberry and cinnamon. It's bright and polished, with round, smooth tannins that make this already accessible.del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba9240PiedmontBaroloKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeLuigi Baudana 2011 del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba (Barolo)NebbioloLuigi Baudana
7324273241ItalyPerfumed berry, iris, rose, sweet baking spice aromas and a whiff of balsam lead the nose. The ripe, full-bodied palate offers wild cherry, fleshy raspberry, tobacco, toast, mocha and cinnamon alongside a tannic backbone and nervous acidity. The heat of evident alcohol closes the finish but doesn't dominate. Drink 2018–2026.Ravera9278PiedmontBaroloKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeAbbona Marziano 2011 Ravera (Barolo)NebbioloAbbona Marziano
7324373242PortugalThe wine is a rich blend of Baga and Touriga Nacional that is ripe and juicy with solid tannins and generous black fruits. There are firm tannins that will probably always be a part of the wine along with acidity and black plum richness. The wood aging has helped to smooth the wine on the way, while still promising further development. Drink from 2017.Marquês de Marialva Grande Reserva9230BairradaRoger Voss@vossrogerAdega de Cantanhede 2010 Marquês de Marialva Grande Reserva Red (Bairrada)Portuguese RedAdega de Cantanhede
7324473243ItalyAromas of dark berry, baked earth, game and forest floor come together in the glass. The palate offers ripe black cherry, crushed strawberry, mint, clove and white pepper alongside compacted tannins and fresh acidity. Give this another five or six years to unwind.Cannubi92101PiedmontBaroloKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeMichele Chiarlo 2011 Cannubi (Barolo)NebbioloMichele Chiarlo
7324573244ItalyEnticing aromas of pressed rose, iris, fragrant berry and wild herb come together on this lovely wine. On the firm, savory palate, clove and anise accent a core of ripe black cherry and raspberry. It's young but well balanced, with elegant tannins and bright acidity. Drink 2017–2027.Bricco Ambrogio9265PiedmontBaroloKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefePaolo Scavino 2011 Bricco Ambrogio (Barolo)NebbioloPaolo Scavino
7324673245FranceThe heart of the Gimonnet vineyards is in the Côte des Blancs. This bone-dry, very crisp Chardonnay is intense in its acidity and tight texture. Like many wines that are so dry, it needs to age to allow its almost shocking freshness to soften. It will always be a wine for food. Drink from 2018.Extra Brut Oenophile Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru9275ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerPierre Gimonnet et Fils 2008 Extra Brut Oenophile Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Chardonnay (Champagne)ChardonnayPierre Gimonnet et Fils
7324773246USAlthough 2013 may have been a difficult vintage, for some winemakers it resulted in immaculate wines with impeccable precision and focus. In this wine, the medium-bodied fruit runs from apple to pineapple. Twenty months in 10% new French oak has left an indelible impression of buttered nuts and a pleasantly oily mouthfeel.Reserve9235OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Ponzi 2013 Reserve Chardonnay (Willamette Valley)ChardonnayPonzi
7324873247PortugalThis is a powerful, ripe and intense wine. It has layers of juicy black fruits that are sustained by acidity and even more by the dense dusty tannins. It is structured and firm with the wood aging giving spice. Drink this fine wine from 2018.Estate Collection Tinto9219LisboaRoger Voss@vossrogerQuinta do Pinto 2012 Estate Collection Tinto Red (Lisboa)Portuguese RedQuinta do Pinto
7324973248PortugalA powerful dense wine that is rich and firmly structured, so it has big bold black fruit flavors that are still firmly embedded in dark tannins. It is a fine complex wine, the fruit of two of Ramos-Pinto's quintas in the Douro Superior. Keep this wine until 2018 at least. Celebrating its 25th anniversary in 2015, this brand was the among the first Douro still wines.Duas Quintas Reserva9241DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerRamos-Pinto 2013 Duas Quintas Reserva Red (Douro)Portuguese RedRamos-Pinto
7325073249USA shock of white pepper remains memorable throughout this wine, which hails from a high-elevation vineyard overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Pinot Noir-like in its leanness and silky mouthfeel, it's prickly with feral jolts of cinnamon and tobacco.Estate Vineyard9255CaliforniaFort Ross-SeaviewSonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneRed Car 2011 Estate Vineyard Syrah (Fort Ross-Seaview)SyrahRed Car
7325173250USStrawberry jam dances around high-strung cranberry, pomegranate and rhubarb, combining for a tantalizing experience of earthy dried herb and cardamom. Light bodied but never thin, it finishes with a flourish of succulent orange peel.Heaven & Earth9270CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneRed Car 2013 Heaven & Earth Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)Pinot NoirRed Car
7325273251ArgentinaRipe, jammy aromas of smashed blueberry are elevated by hints of herbs and cola. A layered and lively mouthfeel is a big plus on this plot-selection Malbec, while blackberry, herb and smoked-meat flavors finish firm fresh and with depth. Drink through 2022.Single Vineyard Plot No 219250Mendoza ProvinceMendozaMichael Schachner@wineschachSalentein 2012 Single Vineyard Plot No 21 Malbec (Mendoza)MalbecSalentein
7325373252FranceAromas of licorice, crushed violets and menthol add depth to the otherwise straightforward black cherry and berry fruit notes. Medium weight with a solid structure and a finish kissed with sweet spice flavors. Drink now.Les Jardins8614Languedoc-RoussillonFaugèresLauren Buzzeo@laurbuzzDomaine Saint Antonin 2008 Les Jardins Red (Faugères)Rhône-style Red BlendDomaine Saint Antonin
7325473253ItalyThis sparkling Gavi from northern Italy offers loads of fresh citrus backed by stone fruit and spring flowers. It finishes with clean, zesty bubbling and a cheerful touch of acidity.86PiedmontGaviPrincipessa Gavia 2009 GaviSparkling BlendPrincipessa Gavia
7325573254USA rich, thick, heavy Merlot, a little too soft and melted in structure, but so delicious, it's easy to like. Shows flashy black cherry jam, chocolate, roasted almond and caramel flavors, rather like a granola candy bar.8626CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaRobert Losey 2008 Merlot (Napa Valley)MerlotRobert Losey
7325673255ItalyThe celebrated Ruffino estate in Tuscany enters the popular Prosecco category with this brand-new wine. An Extra Dry expression with a tiny hint of sweetness, this bright sparkler delivers pear, honey and sweet peach.Extra Dry8615VenetoProseccoRuffino NV Extra Dry (Prosecco)GleraRuffino
7325773256ChileMildly green and herbal on the nose, with bell pepper, oregano, black plum and berry aromas. Concentrated and tight in the mouth, with firmness, some burn and round, dark flavors of baked berry and toasty oak. Heavy and chocolaty on the finish.Crucero Reserva8613Colchagua ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachSiegel 2010 Crucero Reserva Carmenère (Colchagua Valley)CarmenèreSiegel
7325873257USA simple, fruity wine, sharp in acidity, with candied cherry and raspberry flavors, elaborated with sweet oak.8632CaliforniaSanta Cruz MountainsCentral CoastThomas Fogarty 2007 Merlot (Santa Cruz Mountains)MerlotThomas Fogarty
7325973258FranceVery ripe wine that tastes of the heat and sunshine of the vintage. It is warm, the peach and pineapple flavors partnering the toast and spicy vanilla. The wine has some power, maybe missing out on acidity.8620BurgundyPouilly-FuisséRoger Voss@vossrogerLouis Chevallier 2009 Pouilly-FuisséChardonnayLouis Chevallier
7326073259ItalyThis is a light and tonic Prosecco Superiore that offers aromas of hay and dried grass backed by peach and citrus. Pair this wine with lightly fried vegetable tempura.Calpena Extra Dry86VenetoConegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco SuperioreLucchetta NV Calpena Extra Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore)GleraLucchetta

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