Wine Reviews


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7368173680SpainThe people at Hidalgo in Sanlúcar have taken dry Manzanilla and have let it age until it has turned golden and mature. The bouquet is full of exotic oils, nuts and some horsehide. In the mouth, it's a touch salty and astringent, but there are buttery, sweet undertones and great focus. And on the back end the pure flavor of mushroom and almonds is uncanny. Sleek, acidic and likely perfect with lobster or shrimp bisque.Pastrana Manzanilla Pasada9218AndaluciaJerezMichael Schachner@wineschachVinícola Hidalgo NV Pastrana Manzanilla Pasada Sherry (Jerez)SherryVinícola Hidalgo
7368273681USA really good, complex Chard, at the forefront of this varietal's development in California. Combines ripe flavors of sweet, spicy tropical fruits with cool-climate acidity and structure to produce an addictively drinkable, delicious wine. The oak is thickly applied, but perfectly in balance. A desert island wine: If you could bring only one with you...Sleepy Hollow Vineyard9225CaliforniaSanta Lucia HighlandsCentral CoastCinnabar 2000 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands)ChardonnayCinnabar
7368373682USFrom estate vineyards and winemaker Celia Welch Masyczek, a gorgeous Cabernet with the kind of tannin structure you expect from a great vintage in Napa Valley. Deep, impressive flavors of blackcurrants, but it's pretty tannic now and requires up to a decade to soften. At today's prices, this one is a relative bargain.9225CaliforniaYountvilleNapaH. Gray 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville)Cabernet SauvignonH. Gray
7368473683USA success despite a certain leanness, a young wine in need of mid-term cellaring. Notes of of green olives, bacon, unsweetened dark chocolate, and boysenberries are wrapped in sumptuous, lush tannins that melt on the palate. This bone dry wine needs rich meats.Vintner's Select Wind Whistle Vineyard9165CaliforniaNapa CountyNapaPride Mountain 2000 Vintner's Select Wind Whistle Vineyard Merlot (Napa County)MerlotPride Mountain
7368573684AustraliaWhether you ask me, God, or the lamp post, anyone who's ever had Australian Riesling will count this among the country's best versions of the variety. On the nose, it yields a little sweetness, plus some grapefruit and passion fruit; after a few minutes in the glass, the passion fruit aromas hold on and are joined by kiwi and other fresh tropical fruit. It's a very dry Riesling, with strong lime and a fresh herbal (perhaps cilantro?) flavors, which makes the mineral foundation seem that much drier and racier. Finishes medium-long with grapefruit and putty flavors. An excellent food wine…or an excellent last meal in itself.Polish Hill9130South AustraliaClare ValleyGrosset 2002 Polish Hill Riesling (Clare Valley)RieslingGrosset
7368673685USTextbook Napa Merlot. Flavors of green olives, blackberries,white chocolate and herbs, with a slight meatiness, are wrapped in delicate, fine tannins. The wine is very dry and feels great in the mouth. Has the stuffing to improve in the cellar for a few years.9128CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaBarlow 2000 Merlot (Napa Valley)MerlotBarlow
7368773686USEyrie is back in stride with this benchmark pinot gris after a sub-par '99 bottling. Fresh flavors of lemon zest and pear highlight a subtle wine whose subtle spice and zesty complexity promise a long, pleasing life ahead.9115OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine The Eyrie Vineyards 2000 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley)Pinot GrisThe Eyrie Vineyards
7368873687USA brilliant, rich wine, packed with full-bodied flavors but oozing with finesse and elegance. The tastes veer to plums, blackberries and chocolate, and the finish is dry and complex. The tannins are thick but soft. This delicious wine was made by Jim Fetzer with organically-grown grapes.McNab Ranch9139CaliforniaMendocino CountyCeago Vinegarden 1999 McNab Ranch Merlot (Mendocino County)MerlotCeago Vinegarden
7368973688USA very expressive and full-bodied wine. It jolts the palate with the purest extract of ripe limes, green apples and minerals. Wonderfully sharp acids push the flavors up and out, and cleanse the palate. Rather lean, compared to some of the fatties out there, a wine of structure and firmness..Griva Vineyard9138CaliforniaMonterey CountyCentral CoastBernardus 2001 Griva Vineyard Chardonnay (Monterey County)ChardonnayBernardus
7369073689USSmooth and distinguished, a flamboyant wine with enough flavor to last all day. Peaches, pears and tropical fruits are encased in lush, toasty oak, while lees adds a creamy, mealy texture. This classy wine is rich and balanced.Reserve9138CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaRobert Mondavi 2000 Reserve Chardonnay (Napa Valley)ChardonnayRobert Mondavi
7369173690SpainQuite the classic, with rich toffee and nut-like aromas that come through with piercing power. The briny palate is all about dried citrus and nuts, while the earthy, long finish has an unmistakable and very nice mushroom quality. This is a precise, somewhat reserved and dainty amontillado, but it's structured and quite real as far as style and impact.Royal Esmeralda Fine Dry Amontillado9125AndaluciaJerezMichael Schachner@wineschachSandeman NV Royal Esmeralda Fine Dry Amontillado Sherry (Jerez)SherrySandeman
7369273691USCertainly a bigger, denser wine than the Carneros Pinot. The plummy-berry flavors are wrapped in sturdy, rich tannins, with extra notes of earth and herbs. Feels weighty on the palate, a wine of importance, not to mention elegance. The density suggests meats on the bone.Reserve9150CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaRobert Mondavi 2001 Reserve Pinot Noir (Napa Valley)Pinot NoirRobert Mondavi
7369373692USPinot gris as it should be — ripe and full-bodied, with expressive flavors of fresh pears, spiced with cinnamon. Rich and satisfying, yet tangy enough to accompany even delicate seafood. This is a home run, with just enough of a hint of barrel to give it a finishing kiss of butterscotch.9115OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Elk Cove 2001 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley)Pinot GrisElk Cove
7369473693USGood and rich and classy, with excellently ripe blackberry, currant and herb flavors and a nice overlay of toasty oak. Tannins are as fine as can be, smooth and complex, although they're young and tend to stun the palate.9140CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaJudd's Hill 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonJudd's Hill
7369573694USQuite rich and distinguished, with the full-bodied weight and rich, thick tannins of a fine Cabernet, yet with Merlot's flavors of cherries, plums, and violets, with a white chocolate edge. Impresses for its youthful purity and deliciousness, as well as the refined texture.9136CaliforniaSonoma ValleySonomaLedson 1999 Merlot (Sonoma Valley)MerlotLedson
7369673695USHere's a big-boned beauty of a Merlot. Impresses with the sheer size of its fruity-berry flavors and lovely, rich tannins. A layer of well-smoked oak overlays everything. This is a flamboyant wine and will reward careful cellaring.Reserve9170CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaSterling 1999 Reserve Merlot (Napa Valley)MerlotSterling
7369773696ItalyA blend of Sangiovese and Merlot in equal parts, this concentrated wine opens with aromas of vanilla, ripe black-skinned fruit and mocha. The supple palate offers coconut, toast and black plum alongside velvety tannins.Siepi91140TuscanyToscanaKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeMazzei 2013 Siepi Red (Toscana)Red BlendMazzei
7369873697USBeautifully aromatic, this crisp, light-bodied white has flavors of lemon and Golden Delicious apple, refreshing notes complemented by warm, toasty caramel. From a dry-farmed, old-vine site planted in 1972, it delivers an abundance of balanced fruit.Searby Vineyard9155CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneMigration 2014 Searby Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)ChardonnayMigration
7369973698USWinemaker Anna Monticelli coaxes soft, leathery layers of graphite and red cherry from this 100% varietal vineyard-designate Cab. Aged in French oak, 67% new, it shows ripeness and density, with a pleasant structure and good length on the finish.Ames Vineyard9185CaliforniaOakvilleNapaVirginie Boone@vboonePiña 2013 Ames Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville)Cabernet SauvignonPiña
7370073699USFrom a sloped vineyard in Green Valley, this impressive wine is spicy in cardamom with plenty of forest floor character, a tanginess dominant on the full-bodied palate. Orange zest and cranberry accent fine-tuned tannin and subtle oak.Gunsalus Vineyard9154CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneTalisman 2013 Gunsalus Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirTalisman
7370173700ItalyMade entirely from Cabernet Franc, this opens with aromas of blueberry, cedar and a whiff of rosemary. The juicy polished palate offers red currant, raspberry and Mediterranean herb. It closes on a vanilla note. Drink through 2022.Scipio91110TuscanyToscanaKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeTenuta Sette Cieli 2010 Scipio Cabernet Franc (Toscana)Cabernet FrancTenuta Sette Cieli
7370273701USBold, juicy dark cherry and cola drift along a bed of rose petals. Ripe and full bodied, this wine manages to be soft and spicy on the midpalate, then delivers a lengthy, complex finish that's girded in structured tannin.Fox Den Vineyard9162CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneThe Calling 2014 Fox Den Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirThe Calling
7370373702USTannic waves of tartness add to a complicated, slightly carbonic edginess in this wine, accentuated by ripe black fruit that almost seems baked. Spicy acidity and a hit of forest floor make it savory and substantially rewarding.Kanzler Vineyard9156CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneA.P. Vin 2014 Kanzler Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)Pinot NoirA.P. Vin
7370473703USThis is a purely varietal, estate-grown wine from Mount George, cave-aged for nearly two years in all-new French oak. Generously expansive on the palate, it offers full-bodied richness around a thoughtful layering of clove, juicy black cherry and savory red currant, lingering on the finish.The Audition Take 19185CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneAlyris 2013 The Audition Take 1 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonAlyris
7370573704USWhiffs of cinnamon, savory spice and cedar accentuate this intensely ripe, almost pulpy bend of Cabernet Franc and Malbec. It's richly deeply concentrated yet anchored by a backbone of pert cassis acidity and fine penetrating tannins. The finish lingers long on a scintillating thread of vanilla spice.Tocca Ferro Reserve9150New YorkNorth Fork of Long IslandLong IslandAnna Lee C. IijimaAnthony Nappa 2013 Tocca Ferro Reserve Red (North Fork of Long Island)Red BlendAnthony Nappa
7370673705USAn earthy, black-pepper aroma and classic blackberry, raspberry and brambly spice components make this a fine example of Zinfandel. It is full bodied, mouthfilling and generous in flavor, benefitting from good acidity and moderate, fine-grained tannins for structure.Old Vine9117CaliforniaLodiCentral ValleyJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsBlack Saint Peter 2014 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi)ZinfandelBlack Saint Peter
7370773706USThere is an unctuous character to this bottling by iconoclastic cattleman-turned-vintner Jeffrey Blair, with hazelnut, apricot jam and mandarin orange on the nose. Almond oil shows on the palate, but then a rush of squeezed tangerine and sharp lemon-skin acidity arises, giving freshness while finishing with a pinch of vanilla dust.Delfina's Vineyard9145CaliforniaArroyo SecoCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannBlair 2014 Delfina's Vineyard Chardonnay (Arroyo Seco)ChardonnayBlair
7370873707AustriaGentle hints of fragrant orange and soft hints of ripe mandarin grace the nose and palate. Despite all the precision, there is a gentleness to the way these heady citrus flavors are expressed. The palate adds ample lemon freshness, a slender body and a clean finish.Kogelberg Reserve9123KamptalAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoBrandl 2015 Kogelberg Reserve Riesling (Kamptal)RieslingBrandl
7370973708ItalyMade with 80% Sangiovese, 10% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this offers aromas of forest floor, scorched earth, roasted coffee bean and dark spice. The firm dense palate offers blackberry jam, dried cherry, licorice and espresso alongside substantial close-grained tannins that give the finish grip.Molin Vecchio9165TuscanyToscanaKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeCarpineto 2009 Molin Vecchio Red (Toscana)Red BlendCarpineto
7371073709CanadaGolden raisins, poached pear, caramel and butterscotch meld together in this low alcohol, intensely flavored icewine. The flavors expand to include candied pineapple, with tremendous viscosity and enough acidity to keep it aloft and penetrating.Icewine9160OntarioNiagara PeninsulaPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Cave Spring 2014 Icewine Riesling (Niagara Peninsula)RieslingCave Spring

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