Wine Reviews


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8730087299USArchery Summit's top cuvée is young and brash, a jangle of brambly berries, threads of incense and chocolate, assertive acids and not quite integrated tannins. It will require some patience, either in the cellar, or in the decanter (hours!) but has an underlying plush texture and an exotic mix of spices that elevate the pretty fruit to the next level.Archery Summit Estate93150OregonDundee HillsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Archery Summit 2008 Archery Summit Estate Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills)Pinot NoirArchery Summit
8727187270USA pleasantly dank nose of black tobacco, cedar and deep purple fruit like elderberry combine for a strong wine from the Willow Creek District. It's elegantly brooding, redolent of stewed plums, leaving the tongue gripped with tannins and refreshed with acid.Estate9236CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannMidnight 2011 Estate Zinfandel (Paso Robles)ZinfandelMidnight
8727287271USThis small-production Cab is at first faint in subtle fruit but slowly works its magic, offering balanced layers of black currant and blackberry around soft, toasty mocha oak, picking up nuance and complexity on the way to a lingering finish.Neal 3 Vineyard9270CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneMulvane Wine Co. 2011 Neal 3 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonMulvane Wine Co.
8727387272USA balanced and lilting 100% varietal white that touched no oak, it's sublime in white peach and garden herb notes, with memorable minerality on the finish. Crisp and refreshing, it's ideal for picnics, beach outings and pairing with light fare.Hendry Vineyard9218CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneHendry 2013 Hendry Vineyard Pinot Gris (Napa Valley)Pinot GrisHendry
8727487273USFrom a winery focused on Alsatian wines since starting in 1983, this tremendous Gewürztraminer is redolent with grilled lemon peels, lilac and a chalky minerality. On the elegant and tasty palate, there are white rocks, roasted nectarines, yellow apples and noticeable salinity.9220CaliforniaCentral CoastCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannClaiborne & Churchill 2013 Gewurztraminer (Central Coast)GewürztraminerClaiborne & Churchill
8727587274ItalyA layered fragrance of blue flower, leather, tobacco, mature black fruit and incense lead the nose on this bold but refined wine. The palate doles out crushed blackberry, graphite and licorice alongside chewy tannins and surprisingly fresh acidity for an eight-year-old wine.Vigneti di Osan9270VenetoAmarone della Valpolicella ClassicoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeCorteforte 2006 Vigneti di Osan (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico)Red BlendCorteforte
8727687275USFrom a barrel selection of the Quintus block, planted to the 828 clone of Pinot Noir, this wine offers a bigger mouthfeel and heartier vinous experience, awash in darker cherry fruit and more substantial tannin. Floral in rose and violet on the nose, those floral highlights return on the palate, giving the wine a nice tension and balance.Domaine de Clarck92100CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneDe Coelo 2012 Domaine de Clarck Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)Pinot NoirDe Coelo
8727787276USIntense and feral in brooding dark cherry, this Terra Neuma from the extreme Sonoma Coast vineyard known as De Coelo is owned and tended to by the Benziger family, who pull out all the stops with its annual collection of Pinots from the site. Earthy, this one is also silky, subdued and quite elegant.Terra Neuma9275CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneDe Coelo 2012 Terra Neuma Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)Pinot NoirDe Coelo
8727887277USFantastically bright acidity defines this wine, the winery's “finest selection,” which is memorable for its crisp black cherry and strawberry core of fruit. Voluptuous and silky on the palate, it carries a hint of Asian spice throughout, the slightest taste of wild vanilla wrapping things up on the finish.OFS9245CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneDe Loach 2012 OFS Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirDe Loach
8727987278USThis reserve is actually one of the winery's less expensive Chardonnays. It's full, fruity and forward, with a lush mix of pineapple, peaches and tropical fruits, buttressed with juicy acids and highlights of toasted nuts. Thoroughly delicious, and ready for immediate enjoyment.Evenstad Reserve9255OregonDundee HillsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Domaine Serene 2012 Evenstad Reserve Chardonnay (Dundee Hills)ChardonnayDomaine Serene
8728087279GermanySumptuous notes of sugar cookie and honeydew perfume this lavish, full-bodied bottling. It's dry on the palate with piercing white-grapefruit acidity, but balanced by a rich, almost creamy, mouthfeel. The finish lingers luxuriously with a murmur of lime-zest astringency.Trocken9222MoselAnna Lee C. IijimaFritz Haag 2013 Trocken Riesling (Mosel)RieslingFritz Haag
8728187280GermanyWhile sprightly and lean in style, this dry, mineral-tinged Riesling seems to round out on the palate, building in ripe white-peach and grapefruit flavors. Penetrating lemon-lime acidity wins out on the finish, along with a pleasant bite of citrus zest.Kaseler Nies'chen Trocken GG9265MoselAnna Lee C. IijimaReichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2012 Kaseler Nies'chen Trocken GG Riesling (Mosel)RieslingReichsgraf von Kesselstatt
8728287281GermanyPollen and dust notes lend an earthy, mineral tone to ripe tangerine and peach flavors in this bristling, bright eiswein. It's strikingly acidic, but broad swathes of honey and nectar balance things out elegantly.Kiedrich Gräfenberg Eiswein92365RheingauAnna Lee C. IijimaRobert Weil 2012 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Eiswein Riesling (Rheingau)RieslingRobert Weil
8728387282USNamed for the soil layers important to wine's terroir, this Pinot is sourced from a variety of sites and multiple clones, providing a complexity of wild strawberry, high acidity and an herbaceous, oaky backdrop. A teasing kiss of toffee and chocolate on the finish is deliciously intriguing.Strata9250CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneJ Vineyards & Winery 2012 Strata Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirJ Vineyards & Winery
8728487283ArgentinaA heady but attractive bouquet of marzipan, balsam wood, blackberry, cassis and raisin introduce a loaded but well-balanced, full-bodied palate. Toast, chocolate and black fruit flavors finish with additional spice, chocolate and lustiness. Drink through 2019.Single Vineyard Reserva9220Mendoza ProvinceAgreloMichael Schachner@wineschachLamadrid 2012 Single Vineyard Reserva Malbec (Agrelo)MalbecLamadrid
8728587284SpainCedar, char and blackberry aromas are full and ripe on the nose. Given the wine's age, its structure and tannic weight are just right. Earthy, lightly roasted flavors of spiced raspberry and plum finish peppery and dry. Drink through 2020.Prado Enea Gran Reserva9262Northern SpainRiojaMichael Schachner@wineschachMuga 2006 Prado Enea Gran Reserva (Rioja)Tempranillo BlendMuga
8728687285GermanyIntense note of caramel and smoke add complexity to fresh apple and tangerine flavors in this dry, mineral-rich wine. It's delicate in alcohol, yet remarkably round and clingy on the palate, cut by a stream of high-toned acidity on the finish.Nik Weis Leiwener Laurentiuslay Feinherb Grosse Lage9255MoselAnna Lee C. IijimaSt. Urbans-Hof 2012 Nik Weis Leiwener Laurentiuslay Feinherb Grosse Lage Riesling (Mosel)RieslingSt. Urbans-Hof
8728787286ArgentinaRevancha is a new line of wines from esteemed winemaker Roberto de la Mota. This blends Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Cab Franc. On the nose, it is spicy, lightly herbal and deep in fruit. A tight palate shows raw tannins and flavors of wild berry and oak-based coconut. Dry, flashy and a bit rough on the finish, this will benefit from a few more years in bottle. Drink through 2020.La Gran Blend9233Mendoza ProvinceMendozaMichael Schachner@wineschachRevancha 2011 La Gran Blend Red (Mendoza)Bordeaux-style Red BlendRevancha
8728887287USBlackberry, charred sage, beef crust and cedar notes introduce this blend of 48% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. It's lively on the palate, with a lingering finish of dried cherries.9240CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannRobert Hall 2012 Meritage (Paso Robles)MeritageRobert Hall
8728987288USThere's diamond-like precision on the nose, with white peach, salinity and croissant aromas. The flavors are very even and still unraveling, with tight lemon, apple and salt on the front and pineapple emerging on the finish.Rincon Vineyard9244CaliforniaArroyo Grande ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannTalley 2012 Rincon Vineyard Chardonnay (Arroyo Grande Valley)ChardonnayTalley
8729087289USThe lovely wines from this pioneering estate, now in the capable hands of second-generation winemaker Jason Lett, are generally priced well below any comparable efforts. Here the texture and minerality evoke surpassing elegance. Lime, grapefruit, a bite of pineapple all come into play, with the depth and balance that suggests several years of life ahead.9219OregonDundee HillsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine The Eyrie Vineyards 2013 Pinot Gris (Dundee Hills)Pinot GrisThe Eyrie Vineyards
8729187290USThis is a lush and fragrant wine, instantly appealing with aromas of orange blossom and sweet pear. Quite dry and concentrated, it brings further flavors of citrus, grapefruit and lemon rind as it plays out in a lingering, refreshing finish.9221OregonWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine WillaKenzie Estate 2013 Pinot GrisPinot GrisWillaKenzie Estate
8729287291USThe nose on this wine from veteran vintner Eric Ogorsolka is reminiscent of an old-time closet, with pipe smoke, cedar and plum perfume. It's quite woody and elegant on the palate, with well-integrated fruit, spice and herb characters suggesting savory plum jelly and prune reduction sauce.9232CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannZenaida Cellars 2012 Zinfandel (Paso Robles)ZinfandelZenaida Cellars
8729387292SpainLightly baked and charred on the nose, this is a well-oaked wine showing blackberry, cassis and lemon peel aromas. A saturated, layered palate features loamy blackberry and cassis flavors offset by peppery spice and cocoa dust. Licorice and blackened oak revive a sense of char on a broad, full finish. Drink through 2022.Macán Clásico9250Northern SpainRiojaMichael Schachner@wineschachBenjamin de Rothschild & Vega Sicilia SA 2009 Macán Clásico (Rioja)Tempranillo BlendBenjamin de Rothschild & Vega Sicilia SA
8729487293USThis bottling masterfully handles the young appellation's tropically inclined fruit, with apple candy aromas and a soft, rich mouthfeel. The flavors nod briefly toward the traditional greener, grassy side of the grape, but it's a smoother experience, less biting, with a hint of barrel smoke.9225CaliforniaHappy Canyon of Santa BarbaraCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannFiddlehead 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara)Sauvignon BlancFiddlehead
8729587294ItalyThis is a fascinating wine that represents the first bottling of a newly discovered grape called Sirica (only 690 bottles have been produced). Genetic research shows that the grape shares characteristic with Syrah but that its lineage extends deep into ancient times. The wine is simply delicious with soft layers of chocolate, cherry and spice and balanced firmness on the close. A great item for collectors.Sirica94Southern ItalyCampaniaFeudi di San Gregorio 2007 Sirica Red (Campania)Red BlendFeudi di San Gregorio
8729687295FranceWith a touch of initial mineral austerity, this still-young wine offers tannins and a solid structure as well as black cherry and dark plum fruits. Beautifully balanced, it will develop slowly, leaving its minerality and rounding out.La Croix Boisée9437Loire ValleyChinonRoger Voss@vossrogerBernard Baudry 2008 La Croix Boisée (Chinon)Cabernet FrancBernard Baudry
8729787296USWow. This challenges the best of Canada for a great Gewürztraminer ice wine. A thrilling mix of flower, fruit, caramel, coffee (!) and honey, it is impeccably balanced and outrageously delicious. Just goes and goes.Celilo Vineyard Gewurztraminer Ice Wine9445OregonColumbia Gorge (OR)Oregon OtherPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Viento 2009 Celilo Vineyard Gewurztraminer Ice Wine Gewürztraminer (Columbia Gorge (OR))GewürztraminerViento
8729887297FranceVery pure in character, a wine that expresses the chalk terroir. Minerality and complexities of bright acidity, flavors of pear juice and grapefruit presage a final hint of honey.Le Mont Sec9430Loire ValleyVouvrayRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Huët 2010 Le Mont Sec (Vouvray)Chenin BlancDomaine Huët
8729987298USAn amazing wine, massively concentrated in fruit, yet beautifully balanced. Clearly one of the greatest California Syrahs of the vintage. Dry and complex, it shows intricate flavors of blackberries, Canadian bacon, mushu pork sauce, black pepper and smoky cedar flavors. Gorgeous and compelling, but far too young. Drink 2012–2018.Kobler Family Vineyard9445CaliforniaGreen ValleySonomaDonelan 2009 Kobler Family Vineyard Syrah (Green Valley)SyrahDonelan

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