Wine Reviews


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10511050USShows plenty of lush, ripe fruit, wrapped in soft tannins and balanced with crisp acids. The forward black cherry, red licorice, orange and smoky vanilla flavors are rich, and the price makes it a great value.8510CaliforniaCaliforniaCalifornia OtherLittle Black Dress 2006 Merlot (California)MerlotLittle Black Dress
10521051SpainQuite leesy and funky, with meaty, oily aromas that are a departure from normal Albariño and are indicative of the 30% Treixadura and Loureiro that beef things up. Perfectly drinkable, and with a decent mouthfeel, but still it lacks the straightforward cleanliness of the really good wines from Galicia. Imported by Republic National Distributing Co.Señor da Folla Verde8525GaliciaRías BaixasMichael Schachner@wineschachMarqués de Vizhoja 2007 Señor da Folla Verde White (Rías Baixas)White BlendMarqués de Vizhoja
10531052USEstancia produces solid, savory Pinot Grigios at a fair price, and they even dropped their price last year. This one's a little off-dry, with crisp acidity and pleasant citrus, peach and honeysuckle flavors.8512CaliforniaCaliforniaCalifornia OtherEstancia 2007 Pinot Grigio (California)Pinot GrigioEstancia
10541053SpainWith tobacco, molasses, spearmint and baked fruit aromas, this finds itself squarely in the old school forum. The palate shows straight-ahead red fruit with light herbal and pepper accents. Snappy and a bit thin, but it offers all the basics.Reserva8530Northern SpainRiojaMichael Schachner@wineschachFinca La Emperatriz 2000 Reserva (Rioja)Tempranillo BlendFinca La Emperatriz
10551054ItalyGrassy and tonic with background shadings of white flower and stone fruit, this Ribolla Gialla offers aromas of white peach, kiwi and subtle hints of exotic fruit. The wine is crisp and lean in the mouth.8519Northeastern ItalyColli Orientali del FriuliVinai dell'Abbate 2006 Ribolla Gialla (Colli Orientali del Friuli)Ribolla GiallaVinai dell'Abbate
10561055AustriaBeyond the spice of this cool-climate wine, the flavors offer red berry fruits, fresh acidity and stalky tannins. It's soft, easy to drink now.Sandgrube 13 Chremisa8524KremstalRoger Voss@vossrogerWinzer Krems 2005 Sandgrube 13 Chremisa Zweigelt (Kremstal)ZweigeltWinzer Krems
10571056AustriaOne of the original in the new generation of light, fresh Grüner Veltliner, Veltlinsky is a good example. With its green apple directness and smooth structure, it is a wine for the year, a fine apéritif or seafood partner. Screwcap.Veltlinsky8510NiederösterreichRoger Voss@vossrogerGraf Hardegg 2007 Veltlinsky Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich)Grüner VeltlinerGraf Hardegg
10581057ChileA little tart and pickled off the bat, with notes of rhubarb and red cherry along with a stronger, more evident blast of oak. The palate is fresh but sort of lean and wanting, with regular raspberry and plum flavors. Snappy but slightly sappy and resiny for what's on offer.El Delirio Reserve Syrah-Malbec8511Central ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachBotalcura 2006 El Delirio Reserve Syrah-Malbec Red (Central Valley)Red BlendBotalcura
10591058USThis is the kind of wine someone serves at a big party, maybe in paper cups, along with the canapes, and you're delighted because it's actually pretty good. It's dry, soft and chocolaty, with a rich undertow of blackberries and currants.8516CaliforniaCentral CoastCentral CoastBridgeway 2004 Syrah (Central Coast)SyrahBridgeway
10601059ItalyLa Piazza is a line of wine from Sicily's Calatrasi winery that uses fruit from various parts of Italy. This is their Pinot Grigio from northern Italy that tastes rich and creamy and is made in a New World style. Aromas revolve around butter, almond paste, peach and apricot. It doesn't have huge length, but it does taste rich and dense.La Piazza85Northeastern ItalyDelle VenezieCalatrasi 2006 La Piazza Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie)Pinot GrigioCalatrasi
10611060FranceAs in nearby Sauternes, 2005 produced some exceptionally rich botrytised wine in Monbazillac. This example from one of the leading Bergerac producers certainly shows plenty of richness, but it seems rather too sugary, showing toffee flavors and fatness. The acidity is missing.8511Southwest FranceMonbazillacRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Bélingard 2005 MonbazillacBordeaux-style White BlendChâteau Bélingard
10621061FranceFor those with a classical bent, Clos Teddi is named after Thetis, sea goddess and mother of Achilles. This rosé, appropriately, summons up lunch by the ocean, with its crisp, fresh, dry strawberry and pink grapefruit flavors, just touched by caramel.Rosé8525France OtherPatrimonioRoger Voss@vossrogerClos Teddi 2007 Rosé Red (Patrimonio)Red BlendClos Teddi
10631062ItalyYoung spring flowers, lemongrass, green melon and dandelion come to mind and color what is a fresh wine with an easy, no-fuss approach. There's no big complicated story here, but that's exactly the point.85Northeastern ItalyColli Orientali del FriuliColutta 2007 Friulano (Colli Orientali del Friuli)FriulanoColutta
10641063South AfricaLayered and rustic, this wine starts with aromas of tobacco and sausage and leads into spicy, dark fruit flavors. Vibrant with supple tannins, the wine needs some time.8520DarlingSusan Kostrzewa@suskostrzewaOrmonde 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Darling)Cabernet Sauvignon-MerlotOrmonde
10651064ItalyThis is a ripe, slightly jammy blend of Nero d'Avola and Merlot with tones of cooked spice and blackberry pie. There are also some green leafy notes in the back backed by dense black tea that come as a surprise. You'll feel some grit on the palate and more fruit flavors on the close.Evoè85Sicily & SardiniaSiciliaPrincipe di Corleone 2004 Evoè Red (Sicilia)Red BlendPrincipe di Corleone
10661065PortugalRipe and fruity, this is already delicious, but that doesn't detract from the firm tannins and density of a wine that will age well. It has all the elements, with the fruit, solid tannins and a juicy aftertaste. Drink from 2025.Quinta do Seixo Vintage9450PortRoger Voss@vossrogerSandeman 2015 Quinta do Seixo Vintage (Port)PortSandeman
10671066USComposed, complex and complete, this mellow wine is very comfortable in its skin. Touches of oak, tobacco, dried plum and cardamom fill the aroma, and ripe but not overripe black cherry, tamarind and cola flavors flood the palate, supported by fine-grained tannins and medium-full body.Old Vine Reserve9438CaliforniaAmador CountySierra FoothillsJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsScott Harvey 2012 Old Vine Reserve Zinfandel (Amador County)ZinfandelScott Harvey
10681067USThis wine offers astounding quality for the price, a juicy expression of fruit and spice with a depth of firm resolved tannin, lively acidity and layers of black cherry and cola. Approachable and delicious, it hits the mark on every level being light bodied and refreshingly balanced while complex.9434CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneSea Slopes 2015 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)Pinot NoirSea Slopes
10691068USWith its distinctive black label, this reserve is set apart from the winery's expanding lineup of Pinots. It shows more oak-derived flavors, along with ripe plum and cherry fruit. Streaks of espresso, vanilla and chocolate come through, suggesting it will only improve with a hearty decant or additional bottle age. Drink now through the mid-2020s.Family Reserve MMXIV94100OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Trisaetum 2014 Family Reserve MMXIV Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirTrisaetum
10701069USSourced from the estate's original 1999 plantings, this is a chewy, majestic, earthy and deeply dark wine. Its black fruit is ribbed wtih iron, licorice, coffee and graphite notes and framed by earthy tannins that lend texture. It drinks bigger than its listed alcohol would suggest.Bergström Vineyard9495OregonDundee HillsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Bergström 2015 Bergström Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills)Pinot NoirBergström
10711070USThis single vineyard wine is a blend of six separate blocks, each planted to a different clone. It deftly combines savory herb flavors with ripe Bing cherry fruit. The tannins are polished, textured and balanced, leading into a long finish that leaves a final impression of composted earth.Shea Vineyard9462OregonWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Bergström 2015 Shea Vineyard Pinot NoirPinot NoirBergström
10721071ItalyThis wine's enticing rose, blue flower, menthol and herb scents come together in the glass. On the taut, precise palate, tightly knit, refined tannins enwrap crunchy red cherry and juicy cranberry flavors. White pepper and clove notes add depth, while bright acidity lends balance. Drink 2023–2035.Castelletto9457PiedmontBaroloKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeMauro Veglio 2013 Castelletto (Barolo)NebbioloMauro Veglio
10731072PortugalThis is a major Douro wine from the Poças family-owned Port and wine producer. Dusty tannins already give it class as well as richness. Packed with black-plum fruits and with good concentration, the wine is still maturing. It needs to age further, so drink from 2019.Símbolo94150DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerPoças 2014 Símbolo Red (Douro)Portuguese RedPoças
10741073PortugalFull of ripe fruit, this wine is rich while also having a delicately perfumed character. With its spice, generous fruits and sense of poise, it will age well. Drink from 2027.Vintage9478PortRoger Voss@vossrogerQuinta do Vesuvio 2015 Vintage (Port)PortQuinta do Vesuvio
10751074AustraliaSourced from vines planted in 1847, this is a full-bodied, open-knit wine, supple and velvety in texture. Vanilla cream and black cherries mark the nose, while the flavors are more savory, resembling black olives and grilled meat. It's long and lush on the finish. Drink it now through 2025.Moorooroo94100South AustraliaBarossa ValleyJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzSchild Estate 2013 Moorooroo Shiraz (Barossa Valley)ShirazSchild Estate
10761075USAlways impressive in its grasp of power and grace, this white is memorable from start to finish, beginning with a dark golden-hay color that dazzles in the glass. A strong floral component of jasmine invites on the nose, while sparkling acidity maintains a freshness amidst the integrated oak and delicious flavors of honeyed pear and crème brûlée.Red Shoulder Ranch9452CaliforniaCarnerosNapa-SonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneShafer 2015 Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay (Carneros)ChardonnayShafer
10771076FranceFrom old vines planted in a single vineyard, this is a spectacular red. It has the crisp acidity of the cool-climate Sancerre, but it also has the weight and ripeness of a fine Burgundy. The wood aging has left a spicy toasty edge to the beautiful cherry fruits and acidity. It could age for another year to be at its best. Drink from 2019.En Grands Champs94112Loire ValleySancerreRoger Voss@vossrogerAlphonse Mellot 2014 En Grands Champs (Sancerre)Pinot NoirAlphonse Mellot
10781077ItalyThis savory, firmly structured, full-bodied red opens with subtle dark berry, rose petal, pipe tobacco and crushed herb aromas. It delivers layers of juicy Marasca cherry, black raspberry, cinnamon and clove flavors, buttressed by youthfully assertive but refined tannins and nicely balanced, with fresh acidity. Drink 2023–2033.Ascheri94180PiedmontBaroloKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeAscheri 2013 Ascheri (Barolo)NebbioloAscheri
10791078USIrresistably delicious and reminiscent of cru Burgundy, this laser-focused effort features bright Meyer lemon, tangerine and peach flavors, with plenty of juicy acidity. It grows deeper and richer as it breathes—and seems to disappear way too quickly once opened.Old Stones9435OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Bergström 2015 Old Stones Chardonnay (Willamette Valley)ChardonnayBergström
10801079USThis winery is earning a place among Oregon's best with its top tier wines, like this one. Complex and loaded with bee pollen, crisp apple, lime zest, seabreeze and toasted cracker notes, it leaves you breathless the longer it breathes.Elusive Queen9485OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Big Table Farm 2015 Elusive Queen Chardonnay (Willamette Valley)ChardonnayBig Table Farm

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