Wine Reviews

1089110890CanadaThis southern Rhône-style blend is soft, lush and heavy with a rich mix of peach, apricot and papaya fruit power. One-third new oak barrels put a patina of toast and butterscotch on the ripe fruit, with a finishing flavor of fresh roasted cashews.Trebella9020British ColumbiaOkanagan ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Church & State 2012 Trebella White (Okanagan Valley)Rhône-style White BlendChurch & State
1089210891FranceThis comes from a single vineyard that is owned by several growers but whose fruit is made into a single wine. It is rich, ripe and fruity, a powerful and full-bodied Muscadet. It has spice as well as citrus fruitiness and a rounded texture. Some aging has really improved this wine.Monnières-Saint-Fiacre9028Loire ValleyMuscadet Sèvre et MaineRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine du Fief aux Dames 2010 Monnières-Saint-Fiacre (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine)MelonDomaine du Fief aux Dames
1089310892ItalyAged for 36 months in barriques and 24 months in large casks, this opens with aromas of coconut, toasted oak and spicy blackberry. The palate offers sour cherry, mocha, tobacco and roasted coffee bean. The palate starts smooth and creamy but austere wood tannins impart a mouth-drying finish. Drink through 2022.Percristina90120PiedmontBaroloKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeDomenico Clerico 2005 Percristina (Barolo)NebbioloDomenico Clerico
1089410893FranceDefinitely pink-colored, this tastes as much wine as Champagne. A rich strawberry and red cherry flavor gains texture from the tangy acidity and hint of lemon zest. It could age until late 2015 in bottle to be even better.Rosé9055ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerH. Blin NV Rosé (Champagne)Champagne BlendH. Blin
1089510894USThis could be considered a liquid dessert, with a rich gold color, abundant aromas of baked apple and pear tart, and tasty vanilla and marzipan flavors. But with 1% dosage it's not overly sweet, just very lush in texture, concentrated in flavor and long on the finish.9014CaliforniaCaliforniaCalifornia OtherJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsKorbel NV Chardonnay (California)ChardonnayKorbel
1089610895USThis wine gets neutral French oak and it shows in its zesty profile of orange and tangerine over apple and pear. The fruit is hearty and juicy, the texture light and refreshing.Magnolia Inspiration Vineyard9020CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneKrutz 2013 Magnolia Inspiration Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)ChardonnayKrutz
1089710896AustriaThis offers ripe yellow and green pear shot through with grapefruit zest, with a yeasty, savory streak on the midpalate and a touch of pineapple. Certainly ripe and rounded—but beautifully tempered by lively white pepper.Spies9024NiederösterreichAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoKurt Angerer 2013 Spies Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich)Grüner VeltlinerKurt Angerer
1089810897AustriaEarthy yeastiness combined with soft lemon freshness creates a very savory wine. While the palate has umami-like spice, it also has a linear lick of clean lemon acid. The two work in contrast and will show their best with a mixed cheese platter.Ortolan Cuvée Prestive9023NiederösterreichAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDürnberg 2013 Ortolan Cuvée Prestive White (Niederösterreich)White BlendDürnberg
1089910898AustriaLemon balm, peppery arugula and yeasty savoriness combine into a sleek, streamlined wine that goes down all too easily—notwithstanding its wonderful layers and length. The lemony finish lasts and refreshes.Tradition9018NiederösterreichAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDürnberg 2013 Tradition Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich)Grüner VeltlinerDürnberg
1090010899USThis wine is rich and ripe, oozing with black cherry, boysenberry and strawberry jam aromas and flavors. It feels full and rather soft on the palate, as the acidity and tannins appear very mild.9045CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsFreeman 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)Pinot NoirFreeman
1090110900FranceHaute-Serre is high on the plateau above the Lot river. It produces wines that are structured with complex tannins and an austere fruit character. This 2011 is in that mold. It has acidity as well as juicy black fruits, plus striated tannins that are in the process of being smoothed by the wood aging. Drink from 2018.Château de Haute-Serre Grand Vin Seigneur9025Southwest FranceCahorsRoger Voss@vossrogerGeorges Vigouroux 2011 Château de Haute-Serre Grand Vin Seigneur Malbec (Cahors)MalbecGeorges Vigouroux
1090210901AustraliaThis is a meaty, dark-fruited Shiraz. Seductive notes of caramelized beef and brown sugar dominate, while the wine's texture is a bit coarse, turning astringent on the finish. Try in 2017.The Bamboo Scrub Single Vineyard9085South AustraliaMcLaren ValeJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzD'Arenberg 2010 The Bamboo Scrub Single Vineyard Shiraz (McLaren Vale)ShirazD'Arenberg
1090310902FranceThis blend of Petit Manseng and Petit Courbu is dry, although the Petit Manseng gives its characteristic hints of honey even here. It is floral, fragrant, rich and balanced. Acidity cuts through the richness to give shape and allow the texture to fill out. The wine is ready to drink.Château Montus Blanc90Southwest FrancePacherenc du Vic BilhRoger Voss@vossrogerAlain Brumont 2010 Château Montus Blanc (Pacherenc du Vic Bilh)White BlendAlain Brumont
1090410903USPristine grapefruit and apple blossom notes lend perfume and elegance to this dry, intensely mineral Riesling. Bracing lemon-lime acidity shocks the palate to attention, intensifying a lean, lingering finish.Dry9017New YorkFinger LakesFinger LakesAnna Lee C. IijimaAnthony Road 2013 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes)RieslingAnthony Road
1090510904USHints of waxy white florals and lemon zest persist from nose to finish on this intensely revitalizing semidry Riesling. Tart stone-fruit flavors penetrate the palate, highlighted by a stream of spine-tingling acidity.Semi-Dry9017New YorkFinger LakesFinger LakesAnna Lee C. IijimaAnthony Road 2013 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes)RieslingAnthony Road
1090610905CanadaDespite the low alcohol, this pure Carmenère is fully ripened, with a soft, seductive nose boasting highlights of baking spices and pipe tobacco. Wild blackberries, tart acids and streaks of earth and stem comprise the core flavors, with a finishing note of dark chocolate.9050British ColumbiaOkanagan ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Black Hills 2012 Carmenère (Okanagan Valley)CarmenèreBlack Hills
1090710906ItalyAromas of ripe plum, black cherry, leather and ground white pepper follow through to the smooth, full-bodied palate along with a mineral accent. Supple tannins and fresh acidity provide the framework while a licorice note signals the close.9030PiedmontBarbera d'AlbaKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeCantina del Pino 2012 Barbera d'AlbaBarberaCantina del Pino
1090810907ItalyMade from 40-year-old, bush-trained vines, this opens with earthy aromas of charred earth, smoke, grilled sage and black spice. The concentrated but elegant palate delivers mature blackberry, dried black cherry, allspice and pipe tobacco alongside velvety tannins.9018Southern ItalyPrimitivo di ManduriaKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeCantine Paolo Leo 2012 Primitivo di ManduriaPrimitivoCantine Paolo Leo
1090910908ItalyFermented in the bottle, this beautiful wine opens with delicate scents of citrus blossom, white stone fruit and a whisper of thyme. Loaded with finesse, the bright silky palate displays Anjou pear, Rennet apple and lemon zest alongside an elegant perlage. Crisp acidity gives it a pristine refreshing finish.Private9375VenetoValdobbiadene Superiore di CartizzeKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeBisol 2014 Private (Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze)GleraBisol
1091010909FranceStill young, this rich, lightly honeyed and intensely ripe wine is beautifully structured. It has swathes of apricot, citrus and gooseberry fruits as well as a dense concentrated texture. The wine is certainly in need of aging. Drink from 2019.Le Grand Roc9340Loire ValleySancerreRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Gérard Fiou 2015 Le Grand Roc (Sancerre)Sauvignon BlancDomaine Gérard Fiou
1091110910ItalyMade entirely with Pinot Nero, this boasts apple, bread crust and toasted hazelnut aromas that follow through to the smooth silky palate along with an orange-zest note. Crisp acidity lifts the creamy flavors. Delicious.Extra Brut Riserva Rosé9350Northeastern ItalyTrentoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeMaso Martis 2013 Extra Brut Riserva Rosé Pinot Nero (Trento)Pinot NeroMaso Martis
1091210911FranceA subtle touch of lemon appears first. On the palate, this is amplified with lemony zest and brightness. Wonderfully dry and light, with a singing, illuminating freshness, this enlivens the palate and puts a spring in your step. There is concentration but also a wonderfully light touch. This is dry and utterly invigorating with a bracing, long and vivid finish of pure lemon. Drink 2017–2030.Rosacker Grand Cru9325AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoCave de Hunawihr 2016 Rosacker Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace)RieslingCave de Hunawihr
1091310912FranceA touch of evolution is immediately apparent: that chamomile lift and dried citrus peel nose gives it away. The dry palate then serves up notions of ripe but tart apple, incisive lemon freshness and a more generous, fluid rich texture that play off each other beautifully. On the finish it is the lemon that shines, alongside some notions of candle wax and more chamomile. A lovely snapshot of a Riesling on its trajectory. Drink 2017-2027.Altenberg-Bergbieten Grand Cru9380AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoCave du Roi Dagobert 2013 Altenberg-Bergbieten Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace)RieslingCave du Roi Dagobert
1091410913USClean Asian pear, wet gravel and lime peel aromas show on the tightly wound nose of this bottling. The palate is quite delicate at first, offering lightly seared white peach, chalk and lime zest notes, but grows increasingly savory and delicious as it opens, indicating great cellar potential. Drink 2018–2030.Los Alamos Vineyard9335CaliforniaSanta Barbara CountyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannChanin 2015 Los Alamos Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County)ChardonnayChanin
1091510914USThis estate red is named after its mountainous locale—a brambly vineyard on Pritchard Hill above Oakville. It combines quite ripe Cabernet Sauvignon with 15% Cabernet Franc, 15% Petit Verdot and 5% Merlot, projecting power and prestige with perfumed violet, dark cherry and savory leather and tobacco notes. Soft, pliable tannins add weight and texture. More time in bottle should add nuance; enjoy 2024–2034.Sage Mountain Vineyard Proprietary93225CaliforniaOakvilleNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneContinuum 2014 Sage Mountain Vineyard Proprietary Red (Oakville)Bordeaux-style Red BlendContinuum
1091610915USThis is all Pommard clone Pinot from a vineyard in the McMinnville AVA. It's loaded with ripe, fleshy cherry fruit and suggestions of steely minerality, typical of the terroir. Big, full, delicious and nicely balanced, it wraps up with a yummy chocolaty finish.Écarté9338OregonOregonOregon OtherPaul Gregutt@paulgwine DanCin 2015 Écarté Pinot Noir (Oregon)Pinot NoirDanCin
1091710916USThis bottling's core of black cherry fragrance is wrapped in sugar plum, balsamic, allspice and nutmeg notes, combining elegance and power. Mulberry and wild cherry flavors show on the palate, lifted by baking spice and gingerbread accents and balanced by solid acidity and tannins. A sagebrush note pops on the finish.Rosemary's Vineyard9375CaliforniaArroyo Grande ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannDecroux 2015 Rosemary's Vineyard Pinot Noir (Arroyo Grande Valley)Pinot NoirDecroux
1091810917USThis wine's wild raspberry, mace, composting violets, kola nut and musk hints make for a very pretty but extremely complex nose. Fermented with 30% whole clusters, it's energetic on the palate, with dark cranberry and sharp raspberry flavors enhanced by allspice and anise. It has a very long finish.9335CaliforniaSanta Cruz MountainsCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannDomaine Eden 2014 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains)Pinot NoirDomaine Eden
1091910918FranceA tropical whiff of passion fruit hovers enticingly on the nose. A touch of this also clings aromatically to the taut palate where concentrated citrus notes of orange, lemon and tangerine dominate. This is resolutely dry and bouncingly fresh with precision, fruit and verve. The finish is totally refreshing and lip-smacking.Eichberg Grand Cru9349AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Zinck 2015 Eichberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace)RieslingDomaine Zinck
1092010919FranceA lick of lemon tanginess plays on the nose alongside a touch of peach. The palate reprises this lemon freshness and lets it dance softly on the fluid, dry palate. Peach and mirabelle can be glimpsed, too. This is dry and fresh, clean and vivid, leaving the palate cleansed and refreshed. The lemon echoes long, joined by zesty grapefruit on the finish, and makes this totally moreish.Schoenenbourg Grand Cru9328AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDopff Au Moulin 2015 Schoenenbourg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace)RieslingDopff Au Moulin

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