Wine Reviews


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1191111910FranceLike the La Louvée, this wine is plummy and superripe, wrapped in toasty, cedary oak. It's savory as well, with meaty notes carried along by waves of richness. The finish is lined with mouthcoating tannins, suggesting a few years of cellaring are warranted. Drink 2018–2030.Les Ruchets9285Rhône ValleyCornasJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzJean-Luc Colombo 2011 Les Ruchets (Cornas)SyrahJean-Luc Colombo
1191211911ItalyPressed iris, violet, dark-skinned berry and cake spice aromas unfold in the glass. The full-bodied palate doles out ripe black cherry, crushed raspberry, sage and clove alongside firm, velvety tannins. You'll notice the warmth of alcohol on the finish but the juicy fruit keeps it in check. Drink 2018–2028.Riserva92TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeAbbadia Ardenga 2010 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino)SangioveseAbbadia Ardenga
1191311912SpainLike its brothers Veraton and Aquilon, this modern Garnacha opens with hickory, savory berry and balsamic aromas. While it's stout in feel, there's freshness amid the saturation. Flavors of toasty oak, licorice and blackberry finish long, blackened and savory. Drink through 2021.9250Northern SpainCampo de BorjaMichael Schachner@wineschachAlto Moncayo 2013 Garnacha (Campo de Borja)GarnachaAlto Moncayo
1191411913USSourced from the Kuleto Estate Vineyard near Pritchard Hill, this wine is quite intense in golden caramel oak and honeyed power. Nonetheless, it explodes in lemon and flint, remaining bright and balanced, with a bite of apple pie on the long finish.9240CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneAltvs 2013 Chardonnay (Napa Valley)ChardonnayAltvs
1191511914FranceWith all the freshness of the vintage, this fruity wine shows good balance between tangy acidity and crisp apple and green-plum fruits. Subtle touches of wood give a spicy, nutmeg flavor to complement the bright fruitiness. Drink from 2018. The vineyard is next door to the Grand Cru Montrachet vines.Les Chenevottes Premier Cru9275BurgundyChassagne-MontrachetRoger Voss@vossrogerAu Pied du Mont Chauve 2013 Les Chenevottes Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet)ChardonnayAu Pied du Mont Chauve
1191611915USThis makes a great showing for Boatique's first review. A deep color, superconcentrated flavors and a big but agile body set this wine apart. It smells like ripe blackberries and tastes like cherries and blueberries dusted with very dark chocolate. This wine is is dry, refined and very young, so cellar it until at least 2020 if you can wait that long.9235CaliforniaRed Hills Lake CountyJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsBoatique 2013 Malbec (Red Hills Lake County)MalbecBoatique
1191711916ItalyAromas of truffle, ripe dark-skinned berry, baking spice and grilled herb unfold on this structured red but accessible red. The ripe, chewy palate doles out fleshy wild cherry, raspberry jam, cinnamon and clove. Well-integrated tannins lend an almost weightless quality. Drink 2018–2023.9278TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeIl Poggione 2011 Brunello di MontalcinoSangioveseIl Poggione
1191811917USThe power of smoky oak shows strongly on this wine. Black-cherry fruit aromas are woven in with caramel, fudge, vanilla and cappuccino scents. A strong tannic structure frames the palate, with juicy black-cherry and blueberry flavors enhanced with milk chocolate and more caramel. Drink 2017–2033.Tower Road9235CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannJ. Lohr 2013 Tower Road Petite Sirah (Paso Robles)Petite SirahJ. Lohr
1191911918ItalySpicy and full-bodied, this opens with aromas that suggest sunbaked earth, leafy underbrush, baking spice and a whiff of leather. The smooth, chewy palate doles out ripe Morello cherry, fig, cinnamon, tobacco and star anise alongside solid, velvety tannins. It's already surprisingly approachable and offers fine near- and mid-term enjoyment. Drink 2017–2025.Riserva9286TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeCorte dei Venti 2010 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino)SangioveseCorte dei Venti
1192011919FranceStill firm and tannic, this dense wine will need some time to develop. It has dark tannins and concentrated red-plum and berry flavors. A smoky background from the wood aging will soften over the next year. However with the tannins, the wine should not be drunk before 2020.Les Crais9270BurgundyGevrey-ChambertinRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Huguenot 2013 Les Crais (Gevrey-Chambertin)Pinot NoirDomaine Huguenot
1192111920FranceHighly reputed for its red wines, Vacheron continues to display its skills with this latest vintage. The wine is rich and full with a combination of bright red fruits and a firm, integrated structure. It is a fresh wine now and one that should age. Drink from 2018.9238Loire ValleySancerreRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Vacheron 2014 SancerrePinot NoirDomaine Vacheron
1192211921ItalyUnderbrush, grilled porcini, chopped herb, tilled soil aromas and a hint of stewed fruit unfold in the glass. The developed palate doles out layers of mature black cherry, raspberry compote, chopped mint, tobacco and anise set along against a backbone of fine-grained tannins. It will be even better in a few years but it's not built for long-term cellaring.Riserva9272TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeDonna Olga 2010 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino)SangioveseDonna Olga
1192311922USDecadently rich in caramel and vanilla on the nose, this vineyard-designate evolves into more delicate floral elements, with a depth of spicy oak and baked apple and pear. Throughout the medium body and medium acidity is a freshness of lemon and lime, with a slight twist of tangerine.Dutton Ranch Walker Hill Vineyard9250CaliforniaGreen ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneDutton-Goldfield 2013 Dutton Ranch Walker Hill Vineyard Chardonnay (Green Valley)ChardonnayDutton-Goldfield
1192411923ItalyAromas of sunbaked earth, underbrush, grilled herb and mature black-skinned fruit lead the nose along with a whiff of worn leather. The chewy palate offers ripe wild cherry, cinnamon and anise framed in velvety tannins. Drink 2018–2025.Riserva9290TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeFattoria dei Barbi 2010 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino)SangioveseFattoria dei Barbi
1192511924ItalyDark-skinned berry, menthol toast and tilled soil aromas come together in the glass. Full-bodied, ripe, velvety tannins underscore flavors of mature black cherry, licorice, tobacco and clove. Drink 2018–2028.Riserva9252TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeFattoria La Lecciaia 2010 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino)SangioveseFattoria La Lecciaia
1192611925USIntensely dense and feral, this wine opens with a thicket of tart cherry and strawberry, followed by leathery black pepper and lavender. Medium in body and acidity, it works for the table, finding balance as it goes, before a rich taste of toffee finishes things off.Grist Vineyard9250CaliforniaDry Creek ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneGary Farrell 2013 Grist Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley)ZinfandelGary Farrell
1192711926SpainIntense, well-directed aromas are staunch, woody and suggest turpentine before pulling back. A lemony palate is loaded with citric acidity, which creates an electric mouthfeel. Nutty, citric and zesty on the finish, this is a superb artisan fino with a high level of complexity.Fino Dos Palmas9245AndaluciaJerezMichael Schachner@wineschachGonzález Byass NV Fino Dos Palmas Sherry (Jerez)SherryGonzález Byass
1192811927ItalyIntense red berry, cake spice, new leather and sunbaked earth aromas meld together. The big, chewy palate delivers fleshy black cherry, toast, coffee, anise and grilled herb alongside solid, ripe tannins. You'll also get a nod of alcohol on the finish.9290TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeMastrojanni 2011 Brunello di MontalcinoSangioveseMastrojanni
1192911928ArgentinaThis is minty, crusty and frankly a bit harsh on the bouquet, where aromas turn charred and burnt. It feels roasted and chunky, with hickory-smoked flavors of clove and berry. The finish vacillates between being oaky and herbal.Maula Oak8517Mendoza ProvinceMendozaMichael Schachner@wineschachBodega Margot 2009 Maula Oak Malbec (Mendoza)MalbecBodega Margot
1193011929SpainVanilla, popcorn and baked apple aromas create a good but one-dimensional nose. In the mouth, things run tight and acidic, with a puckering, lemony feel and austere flavors of dry apple and spice. Finishes tangy and lemony.Vetiver8512Northern SpainRiojaMichael Schachner@wineschachBodegas Ontañón 2009 Vetiver Viura (Rioja)ViuraBodegas Ontañón
1193111930USThis Cabernet Sauvingon includes 6% each Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. It's herbal and austere, though not at all tricked up with vanilla flavor. Short and to the point, it's a good every day red for heartier meals.8515WashingtonWashingtonWashington OtherPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Boomtown 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington)Cabernet SauvignonBoomtown
1193211931FranceRipe and spicy, this is an attractive package of warm tannins and red berries. This wine has a solid, dry core, but it will develop fast—delicious within a year.8514BordeauxBordeauxRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau de Fontenille 2010 BordeauxBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau de Fontenille
1193311932FranceThis is a bright, fruity, rounded wine with a soft texture. It's full and ripe, with melon and green plum notes, plus a touch of bitterness on the finish.La Dame Blanche8520BordeauxBordeaux BlancRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau du Taillan 2011 La Dame Blanche (Bordeaux Blanc)Sauvignon BlancChâteau du Taillan
1193411933FranceRipe and juicy, this wine has good acidity that accompanies the attractive, seemingly sweet tannins. Concentrated, it needs several years to broaden out.Classic8516BordeauxBordeauxRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Lauduc 2010 Classic (Bordeaux)Bordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Lauduc
1193511934FranceFruity and rather soft, this already shows maturity. It's an attractive, red-fruited wine that's light and fragrant. Not for aging.8513BordeauxBordeauxRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Pey la Tour 2010 BordeauxBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Pey la Tour
1193611935FranceThis is tight and closed, with bitter tannins. It takes a while for the red berry flavor to surface, offering a wine that has potential for richness in 3–4 years time. It will always have a final, mineral-driven tautness.8512BordeauxBordeauxRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Roc de Ségur 2010 BordeauxBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Roc de Ségur
1193711936FranceAn earthy, full-bodied wine, this has ripe peach and lime flavors. Sulfur unattractively makes a strong appearance; as the wine was just bottled, this feature may disappear in a few months.85BordeauxBordeaux BlancRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Tanesse 2011 Bordeaux BlancBordeaux-style White BlendChâteau Tanesse
1193811937USHigh alcohol gives this wine distinct heat, as well as a sweet, glycerine-driven edge. The wild blackberry, prune and pepper flavors are characteristic of ripe Zinfandel.Old Vines8520CaliforniaSonoma CountySonomaSt. Francis 2010 Old Vines Zinfandel (Sonoma County)ZinfandelSt. Francis
1193911938FranceHere's a wine that, while expressing the structure of the vintage, brings warmth and a rich blackberry flavor as well. It has a fine texture and a firm, upright feel. Ready for drinking in a year.857BordeauxBordeaux SupérieurRoger Voss@vossrogerKirkland Signature 2010 Bordeaux SupérieurBordeaux-style Red BlendKirkland Signature
1194011939ArgentinaForesty, rubbery and brash, this has toasty, woody, cheesy and berry-driven aromas. It feels creamy and heavy, with herbal and salty flavors that finish with a roasted, meaty taste. Warm, heavy and ponderous.Finca Pedernal8540OtherSan JuanMichael Schachner@wineschachFinca Las Moras 2007 Finca Pedernal Malbec (San Juan)MalbecFinca Las Moras

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