Wine Reviews


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1554115540AustriaSumptuously ripe fruit is held tightly in a structured, still crunchy body with a fine fault line of acidity. The tannins are fine but firm, and will take time to soften. This was made for the long run and should be kept at least until 2017–2018 when it will start to reveal its glorious fruit of red and black cherry and wild blueberry. This is juicy and promising, structured and unashamedly big.Reserve9439EisenbergAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoKrutzler 2012 Reserve Blaufränkisch (Eisenberg)BlaufränkischKrutzler
1554215541USThis is the top bottling of Thomas Fogarty's ambitious Bordeaux-aimed brand, and it shows, with regionally distinctive aromas of crushed rocks, blueberry, tar and smoke. The intriguing palate is elegance defined, with sexy tannins and mineral-driven flavors of black dirt, wet slate and squeezed blueberry. It makes for enlightening drinking now, but offers measured components that will last until at least 2030.Apex Gist Ranch Estate9495CaliforniaSanta Cruz MountainsCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannLexington 2011 Apex Gist Ranch Estate Red (Santa Cruz Mountains)Bordeaux-style Red BlendLexington
1554315542AustriaYeasty freshness swings along with the citrus, watercress, green pear and miso flavors, showing that this is made to last. Grüner's elementary savoriness is exemplified here with verve, weight and conviction. The length is stunning. the moreish flavors never seem to end. Drink as of 2017.Käferberg Reserve9470KamptalAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoLoimer 2013 Käferberg Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal)Grüner VeltlinerLoimer
1554415543AustriaSleek, citric freshness is coupled with a more generous, diffuse nature. The picture that results is focused and rich, with glints of ripe Bosc pear, honeycomb and earth, all shot through with exciting and zesty lemon rind. The finish is exquisitely clean.Silberbichl Reserve9439KremstalAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoMalat 2013 Silberbichl Reserve Riesling (Kremstal)RieslingMalat
1554515544USThis 100% Syrah comes from four parcels of high-elevation sites across Sonoma, many of them otherwise single-vineyard designated by the winery. Here, the blending pays off in refined, gamy, sanguine undertones that evolve in the glass to meet mouthfilling black currant, fine-grain leather and white pepper. An acidic lift on the finish balances the wine's power.Cuvée Christine9448CaliforniaSonoma CountySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneDonelan 2012 Cuvée Christine Syrah (Sonoma County)SyrahDonelan
1554615545AustriaThis wine pulls off a daring feat: despite palate weight and concentration it has a light, almost delicate, feathery citrus touch and a streamlined, fresh palate. The aromatic expression is just beginning to unfold, promising freshly cut apples and oceans of green and dried spice. This should carry a danger-warning: seriously, deliciously addictive! Beautiful now but it deserves maturing. Drink as of 2016–2017.Gaisberg Reserve9428KamptalAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoEichinger 2013 Gaisberg Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal)Grüner VeltlinerEichinger
1554715546AustriaVoluptuous notions of orange oil segue into a more earthy notion of lemon-anointed autumn leaves. Lots goes on here: the fresh peel of rosy apples, grated lemon zest and wet earth, all combined on a very smooth palate. This is highly drinkable and full of moreish allure.Gaisberg Reserve9428KamptalAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoEichinger 2013 Gaisberg Reserve Riesling (Kamptal)RieslingEichinger
1554815547AustraliaFull bodied, rich and thickly textured, this is just a bit earthier and chunkier than Chambers' Rare bottling, while still remaining an outstanding sweet wine. The flavors are dark, earthy and intense, with lots of candied date notes and a lingering finish of molasses.Grand94140VictoriaRutherglenJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzChambers Rosewood Vineyards NV Grand Muscadelle (Rutherglen)MuscadelleChambers Rosewood Vineyards
1554915548FranceNow at its peak, this rich, complex wine comes from a great, structured vintage in the Madiran region. Having moved on from primary fruit, it is now into leather, smokiness, toast and intense mature acidity. With tannins so well integrated into the full-bodied texture, it is a major wine to drink now and until 2020.Château Bouscassé Menhir94Southwest FranceVin de Pays des Côtes de GascogneRoger Voss@vossrogerAlain Brumont 2005 Château Bouscassé Menhir Tannat-Merlot (Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne)Tannat-MerlotAlain Brumont
1555015549AustriaCreamy, rounded freshness with an immensely savory core of sage, arugula and white pepper make for an understated but seriously delicious white. There is weight and importance here, but it is lightly worn. The spicy, almost salty flavors keep you wanting more.Alte Reben Reserve9425KamptalAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoBründlmayer 2013 Alte Reben Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal)Grüner VeltlinerBründlmayer
1555115550USDon't let the Washington State label fool you. This Walla Walla Valley Rocks-region wine shows complex notes of roasted meat, blue fruit, earth, mineral, smoke and herbs. It's full bodied and rich with a dazzlingly polished feel to the fruit and savory flavors capped off by a long, meat-filled finish—beautiful stuff.Northern Blend9440WashingtonWashingtonWashington OtherSean P. Sullivan@wawinereportRôtie Cellars 2012 Northern Blend Syrah (Washington)SyrahRôtie Cellars
1555215551AustriaYeasty roundness meets opulently ripe fruit: red-cheeked apple, yellow pear and juicy yellow peach. The spicy verve of grapefruit zest pulls it into focus. This interplay on fruit and freshness dominates the midpalate majestically and has a staying citrus-power.Dürnsteiner Freiheit Smaragd9448WachauAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoSchmelz 2013 Dürnsteiner Freiheit Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)RieslingSchmelz
1555315552ItalyEarthy fragrances of violet, tilled soil, leather, menthol and spicy plum jump out of the glass. The delicious palate boasts structure and finesse, seamlessly weaving together ripe wild cherry, crushed blackberry, juicy plum and baking spice alongside tightly knit but polished tannins. Drink 2016–2023.Riserva9445PiedmontGattinaraKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeTravaglini 2008 Riserva (Gattinara)NebbioloTravaglini
1555415553AustraliaBig and bold, with firm tannins, this powerful Shiraz shows all the ingredients that point to excellent aging potential. Hints of toast and cracked pepper accent dark-berry aromas, while the flavors mix ripe fruit and intriguing spice notes. The finish is marked by espresso, firm tannins and terrific length. Drink 2020–2030.Miracle Hill9470South AustraliaMcLaren ValeJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzKilikanoon 2010 Miracle Hill Shiraz (McLaren Vale)ShirazKilikanoon
1555515554USThis wine that Doug Margerum makes from the Los Alamos Valley vineyard owned by Dan and Meghan Reeves presents intriguing complexity on the nose, from violet and rose petals to smashed boysenberry, thyme, rosemary and roasted boar meat. Blueberry, blackberry and black cherry soak the palate, which is evened out by pine sap, cedar, purple flowers and shiitake mushroom-powered umami.Black Oak Vineyard9436CaliforniaSanta Barbara CountyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannMargerum 2012 Black Oak Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County)SyrahMargerum
1555615555AustriaRipe Bosc pear with its textured peel sets the tone. An underlying base of luscious ripeness, is cut through with lively, zesty lemon freshness. It resonates with fruit at the very height of its expression: a pleasant edge of bitterness, ample texture, concentration and authenticity.Kellerberg9455WachauAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoPichler-Krutzler 2013 Kellerberg Riesling (Wachau)RieslingPichler-Krutzler
1555715556AustriaThe scent of ripe Mirabelle plums engulfs the nose and unfolds even further on the palate. The plump fruit is tempered by sprightly, fresh lemon. It is purity of fruit with a wholesome edge of earthiness that distinguishes this streamlined, poised wine. The length is astonishing.Loibenberg9442WachauAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoPichler-Krutzler 2013 Loibenberg Riesling (Wachau)RieslingPichler-Krutzler
1555815557USThis Willow Creek winery hits a home run with this blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of dried black cherries, cola, soy sauce and balsamic reduction are pleasing. The sipping experience is cohesive, with blackberry fruit, black pepper spice, plum skin tartness and an expert amount of tannins.Strayts9448CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannJada Vineyard & Winery 2012 Strayts Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles)Merlot-Cabernet SauvignonJada Vineyard & Winery
1555915558USThis wine from a newer vineyard in the recently named Ballard Canyon appellation offers aromas of boysenberry, black pepper and a judicious amount of creosote. It's elegantly structured along a line of ripe purple to tarry black flavors—think burnt ends of beef tip coated in smashed wild berries and crushed Indian spices.Kimsey Vineyard9450CaliforniaSanta Barbara CountyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannJaffurs 2012 Kimsey Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County)SyrahJaffurs
1556015559USMichael Larner is making savory Syrahs to sit on. This one from 2010 offers perfectly ready black and white pepper scents along with blueberry, black licorice candy and violet flowers. It's viscous on the palate, with mace and all sorts of peppery flavors, picking up a bit of scorched lemon tartness and remaining a bit tannic. This may get even better in years to come.Reserve9465CaliforniaSanta Ynez ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannLarner 2010 Reserve Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley)SyrahLarner
1556115560USEstate grown, this is the only white from the Wayfarer Vineyard out on the Fort Ross-Seaview coast, and it's stunning. Culled from several distinct blocks planted to a handful of clones, including Mt. Eden and Old Wente, the aromas are pretty in orange blossom and peach, the body expansive and flinty. Succulent, the wine offers a lot of layered complexity, making it enjoyable now and through 2020–2022.Wayfarer Vineyard9480CaliforniaFort Ross-SeaviewSonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneWayfarer 2012 Wayfarer Vineyard Chardonnay (Fort Ross-Seaview)ChardonnayWayfarer
1556215561AustriaTender, fresh yeasty notes play among citrus, insinuating stones and ripe, yellow plums that unfold completely on the slender but ripe palate. Lemon blossom and fresh lemon juice keep a tight hold around the burgeoning plum fruit. Underneath it all is comforting and grounding earthiness. While its aromas soar, this wine keeps both its feet firmly on the ground.Kellerberg Smaragd9449WachauAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomäne Wachau 2013 Kellerberg Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)RieslingDomäne Wachau
1556315562AustriaSavory notes of autumn leaves play amongst the lively citrus flavors of grapefruit and lemon. The palate comes across as soft but focused: ripe pear juice and lemon freshness are its twin attractions. Wonderfully juicy and refreshing—but closed for now. This will take time to open.Goldberg Reserve9454KremstalAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoGeyerhof 2013 Goldberg Reserve Riesling (Kremstal)RieslingGeyerhof
1556415563ItalyBlue flower, wild rose, perfumed berry and a balsamic note waft from the glass. Structured but graceful, the vibrant palate weaves together crunchy red cherry, crushed raspberry, white pepper, licorice and cinnamon alongside firm but polished tannins. Tempting now but hold for complexity. Drink 2018–2030.Ravera9470PiedmontBaroloKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeSordo 2010 Ravera (Barolo)NebbioloSordo
1556515564USThis very substantive wine carries rich and complex flavors on a firm and lively frame. It has an exotic, perfumed aroma, and plenty of fruit flavor and firm tannins. The elements of ripe cherries, suave oak and vibrant acidity all support each other for great balance and a long finish.Gloria Estate9454CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsFreeman 2012 Gloria Estate Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirFreeman
1556615565AustriaAmid the pear and apple fruit plays a more exotic note of something alluring and spicy, perhaps passion fruit. This intense fruitiness plays on, supported equally by bouncy citrus freshness and deep concentration.Kirchensteig Reserve9446KremstalAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoGeyerhof 2013 Kirchensteig Reserve Riesling (Kremstal)RieslingGeyerhof
1556715566ItalyBlue flower, truffle, underbrush and perfumed berry aromas lead the nose on this structured but elegant wine. Firm, polished tannins provide the framework for crushed Morello cherry, black raspberry, white pepper and menthol flavors. It delivers an enviable combination of structure and finesse. Drink 2016–2029.Cannubi94165PiedmontBaroloKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeBorgogno 2009 Cannubi (Barolo)NebbioloBorgogno
1556815567USWinemaker David Galzignato is making bold but layered wines from the Willow Creek district, including this blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. It offers aromas of cherry-vanilla cream soda with wild mint in the background. Solid tannins frame the palate, which boasts rich flavors of blackberries, root beer, black dirt and port reduction sauce. Drink 2018–2024, perhaps beyond.Passing By9459CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannJada Vineyard & Winery 2012 Passing By Red (Paso Robles)Bordeaux-style Red BlendJada Vineyard & Winery
1556915568AustriaA wonderfully breezy, citrusy scent promises far fuller expression in the future. The palate is tightly coiled too, but already vibrates with pepper and herbal spice. Riper notions of yellow plums creep onto the palate but the spiciness and citrus zest remain, making for a truly long, lip-smacking finish.Terrassen9223KamptalAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoBründlmayer 2014 Terrassen Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal)Grüner VeltlinerBründlmayer
1557015569USA blend of Grenache, Syrah and Malbec, this lightly colored wine offers aromas of wild strawberries, coffee, tobacco and incense, showing pleasing purity and nuance. It's light yet palate coating, possessing a mesmerizing texture along with an assortment of fruit and savory flavors.The Bard9230WashingtonWalla Walla Valley (WA)Columbia ValleySean P. Sullivan@wawinereportBunchgrass 2012 The Bard Red (Walla Walla Valley (WA))Red BlendBunchgrass

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