Wine Reviews


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1566115660FranceAged for 15 years on its lees, this mature Champagne is toasty, shedding its bright fruitiness while gaining a richer, more developed and nuanced character. Almonds and spice are partnered with intense acidity, resulting in a beautiful wine that is ready to enjoy now.Joyau de France94150ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerBoizel 2000 Joyau de France (Champagne)Champagne BlendBoizel
1566215661FranceA very tender touch of peach is felt on the nose. On the palate it is bright lemon freshness that takes over. Despite the lemony concentration on the dry taut palate, there is a wonderfully light touch. A zesty edge of pleasantly bitter pith accentuates the citrus freshness perfectly. This is luminous and refreshing, vivid and bright. The finish is totally citrus-focused and lip-smackingly moreish. Drink 2017–2035.Osterberg Grand Cru9437AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoAndré Kientzler 2016 Osterberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace)RieslingAndré Kientzler
1566315662FranceProduced from organically grown grapes, this is a rich wine. Its lightly oxidative character gives it a smoothness as well as bringing out ripe white fruits and citrus. It is a finely made wine, worthy of aging for a few more years. Drink from 2019.Triple B9490ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerBesserat de Bellefon 2012 Triple B (Champagne)Champagne BlendBesserat de Bellefon
1566415663FranceAromatic notes of tangerine and mandarin play on the nose, making for a heady opening. The concentrated palate shows juicy ripeness against tingling tart freshness. The finish is absolutely dry and totally refreshing. Drink now–2027.Anne de K Schlossberg Grand Cru9425AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoBestheim 2015 Anne de K Schlossberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace)RieslingBestheim
1566515664FranceThe wonderfully earthy touch of russet pear peel and the freshness of lemon and green apple all appear on the nose. On the beautifully dry incisive palate, the lemon shines through and takes over. This is bright, vivid and fresh but comes with a lovely earthy texture that grounds the soaring lemon freshness. The long finish once again features ripe but tart apple and green pear, but ends in lip-smacking pure lemon zest. Drink 2017–2030 at least.Wiebelsberg Grand Cru9442AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoBoeckel 2014 Wiebelsberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace)RieslingBoeckel
1566615665USAn underpinning of soft, grippy tannin carries lingering red currant and cranberry flavors in this full-bodied, unabashedly ripe reserve-level wine. Cola and leathery earth notes combine to boost and contrast the fruit, which persists long into the finish.Chateau Grand Reserve94175CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneBuena Vista 2014 Chateau Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonBuena Vista
1566715666USMade from grapes grown in the Ritchie Vineyard, as well as others, this rich, mineral-laden expression of the variety is balanced and savory, with a touch of salty brine. Golden-hued, it shows complexity and focus, with a nuanced palate laced with apple skin and pear notes.9460CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneDella 2015 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast)ChardonnayDella
1566815667USMade from three vineyards within the appellation, this displays exemplary blending. Slightly reductive now, in its youth, it effortlessly melds together dark blackberry, strawberry and chocolate flavors, with a surly shock of pine forest-like earthiness. Decadent and velvety.9460CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneDella 2015 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirDella
1566915668FranceAn earthy touch of yeast plays promisingly on the nose. The palate then comes in with a concentrated load of ripe peach, bright lemon and rounded rose perfume. An edge of dark fir honey adds even more spicy richness. This brims with flavor, showing rich fruit against fresh lemon. There is lots of excitement here but also balance. This is a rich warming generous wine. Drink 2017–2027.Steingrubler Grand Cru9436AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Barmès-Buecher 2015 Steingrubler Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace)GewürztraminerDomaine Barmès-Buecher
1567015669FranceEarth and apple, citrus and herb all mingle on nose and palate. It is the green apple with its chamomile edge and above all the bright ripe lemon freshness which expands across the dry palate. This is full of bright refreshing citrus and a beautifully understated vigor which will live in this wine for years to come. The finish culminates in a gorgeously tart but ripe apple notion. Very moreish now and approachable but with lots of future promise. Drink 2017–2030.Mandelberg Grand Cru9440AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Fernand Engel 2014 Mandelberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace)RieslingDomaine Fernand Engel
1567115670USMade from biodynamically grown grapes, this wine is remarkably floral, high-toned and rewarding—a complex commingling of anise, green apple and grapefruit flavors. A gravelly texture gives it context and supports the lingering, succulent acidity.Refuge9430CaliforniaDry Creek ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneQuivira 2015 Refuge Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley)Sauvignon BlancQuivira
1567215671SpainAlluring aromas of tree bark, licorice root, rose petal and ripe black fruit show elegance. This is a touch grippy and young in feel, but overall it's showing balance. Deep flavors of plum, cherry, wild berry and vanilla finish finessed by a balance of weight and acidity. Drink from 2019–2032.Granja Gran Reserva9495Northern SpainRiojaMichael Schachner@wineschachRemelluri 2011 Granja Gran Reserva (Rioja)Red BlendRemelluri
1567315672USThis bold and distinctive wine from an outstanding vineyard in the Marin County hills has exotic blackberry and pine needle aromas, vivid and concentrated black cherry flavors and a focus that's unmatched. It's layered and persistent, with a luxurious tide of ripe fruit, moderate tannins and a nicely viscous texture.Andromeda Devil's Gulch Ranch9460CaliforniaMarin CountyNorth CoastJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsSean Thackrey 2015 Andromeda Devil's Gulch Ranch Pinot Noir (Marin County)Pinot NoirSean Thackrey
1567415673FranceEnticingly bracing grapefruit freshness streams from the glass. The palate has a milder sort of freshness—think very ripe bright lemon notes. The flavors are pleasingly focused—sharp and clean, with dryness and a soaring freshness that lightens up everything. There is a wonderfully light touch here. It's a beautiful and totally refreshing wine. Drink 2017–2030.Wineck-Schlossberg Grand Cru9444AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoJean-Marc Bernhard 2015 Wineck-Schlossberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace)RieslingJean-Marc Bernhard
1567515674FranceA touch of yeast still clings to the beautifully fresh apple nose of this wine while the palate still tingles with some residual carbon dioxide. This is rather young but the fruit is very pure in crisp green-apple notes and fresh, tangy lemon. The palate is absolutely dry and very taut and fresh. Some yeasty notes also swing along on the palate. This certainly needs bottle age but promises to become a lemon-scented, fresh and linear marvel. It certainly has bags of tension and freshness. The finish is bright, refreshing and utterly clean.Pfersigberg Grand Cru Trois Châteaux9439AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoKuentz-Bas 2015 Pfersigberg Grand Cru Trois Châteaux Riesling (Alsace)RieslingKuentz-Bas
1567615675USThis wine is rich to the edge of voluptuousness. Delicious nutty, toasty and buttery flavors are wrapped around ripe apricot and papaya fruit. A full-bodied, complex wine, it was aged for a year in 55% concrete eggs, 25% stainless and 20% French oak barrels.Les Sols Arénacés9465OregonChehalem MountainsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Lachini 2015 Les Sols Arénacés Chardonnay (Chehalem Mountains)ChardonnayLachini
1567715676USA fascinating wine, it was processed in a carbonic fashion, in which the juice is allowed to ferment inside the mostly intact grape skins, much like what's done in Beaujolais. The result is a transparent, ruby red wine that offers scents of a dust storm mixed with crushed rock and chile pepper herbaciousness. It's warm and soft on the mouth with a presence that suggests something between peppercorns and bell peppers.Carbonic9224CaliforniaSanta Maria ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannAlta Maria 2013 Carbonic Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley)Pinot NoirAlta Maria
1567815677SpainIntense but classy aromas of berry fruits, minerality, vanilla and chocolate are milder and richer than the wine's racy, structured, acid-rich palate. Flavors of blackberry come with a shock of bracing tartness, while oaky aftershocks offer up chocolate and woodspice flavors. A zesty, firm, hard-driving finish brings a touch of sharpness. Drink through 2022.Pagos Viejos92100Northern SpainRiojaMichael Schachner@wineschachArtadi 2010 Pagos Viejos (Rioja)Tempranillo BlendArtadi
1567915678ItalyMade entirely from the native grape Nerello Cappuccio grown on Mount Etna, this polished wine opens with aromas of ripe red berries, underbrush, violet and leather. The delicious palate delivers succulent wild cherry, ripe raspberry, carob, cocoa and orange peel alongside silky, smooth tannins.9250Sicily & SardiniaEtnaKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeBenanti 2010 EtnaNerello CappuccioBenanti
1568015679USRipe raspberry, slight minerality, mossy earthiness and a minty lift kick off this offering. On the palate, expect sour cherry, mocha and a pleasing espresso finish bolstered by tingling acidity. Though 2010 was considered a less-than-optimal year, the vintage look like a shining star now that wines like this have had time to come into their own.Edna Valley9231CaliforniaCaliforniaCalifornia OtherMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannIndigené 2012 Edna Valley Pinot Noir (California)Pinot NoirIndigené
1568115680USKathleen Inman has gained such a following with her Rosé that she's given it a special designation, a nod to her happy marriage. Made in a direct-press style, the dry, refreshing wine is light salmon in color and marked by aromatic grapefruit and strawberry, mouthfilling and juicy as a slice of watermelon in summer.Endless Crush Rosé of9225CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneInman Family 2013 Endless Crush Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirInman Family
1568215681USLos Gatos-based Testarossa is building a powerful reputation as a single-vineyard specialist, but this more accessibly priced cuvée from Monterey County rivals their best efforts. There is nuttiness, brioche and slightly sour orange on the nose, followed by a very soft mouthfeel, with flavors of pound cake, vanilla cookie, peach cobbler and candied grapefruit.Cuvée Los Gatos9223CaliforniaMonterey CountyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannTestarossa 2012 Cuvée Los Gatos Chardonnay (Monterey County)ChardonnayTestarossa
1568315682FranceThis powerful, spicy wine offers structure and a thrust of wood. Firm and dark, as befits a Vosne-Romanée, it is densely powerful, full of black fruits that are already shining above the structure. Drink from 2017.Les Petits Monts Premier Cru92145BurgundyVosne-RomanéeRoger Voss@vossrogerLouis Latour 2011 Les Petits Monts Premier Cru (Vosne-Romanée)Pinot NoirLouis Latour
1568415683USLVdM is shorthand for Les Vignes de Marcoux, a newer planting near Red Willow. Done in a lovely, savory style, it offers a mix of leaf, herb and earth components, rather than supersweet fruit. Graceful and detailed, it discloses pepper and iron ore minerality.LVdM Vineyard9230WashingtonYakima ValleyColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine :Nota Bene 2010 LVdM Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley)Syrah:Nota Bene
1568515684USFunky earth tones of forest floor, brown button mushrooms and aged beef rise as leading scents in this Rhône-style blend. The nicely rounded, velvety palate, which emerges steadily over the course of a sip, offers plum flavors and soft but present tannins, representing a wine that could last a few more years.Carnal9240CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannOso Libre 2011 Carnal G-S-M (Paso Robles)G-S-MOso Libre
1568615685USThe most affordable offering in the Clos de la Tech portfolio, it offers cinnamon and other baking spices plus caramel on the nose. These are followed by a palate rich in cola nut, cranberry, tar and cherry flavors. Like its sister wines, this is loaded with tannins, so expect steady evolution and improvement through 2019.Domaine Lois Louise9242CaliforniaSanta Cruz MountainsCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannClos de la Tech 2009 Domaine Lois Louise Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains)Pinot NoirClos de la Tech
1568715686FranceSweet and rounded, this is a very satisfying wine. Packed with fruits, ripe strawberry flavor and balanced acidity, it also has solid tannins to give weight and structure. The fruit, full of juice, hangs from thE structure, making it round and rich on the finish. Drink from 2017.Clos des Mouches Premier Cru9251BurgundySantenayRoger Voss@vossrogerDavid Moreau 2011 Clos des Mouches Premier Cru (Santenay)Pinot NoirDavid Moreau
1568815687FranceFrom a parcel that is outside the Premier Cru of Les Damodes, this is a structured, steely and mineral-textured wine. Firm tannins go with attractive perfumes and the potential of ripe, jammy fruit. The end has great acidity as well as a smoky character from wood aging. Drink from 2016.Les Damodes92BurgundyNuits-St.-GeorgesRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Chantal Lescure 2011 Les Damodes (Nuits-St.-Georges)Pinot NoirDomaine Chantal Lescure
1568915688FranceNot to be confused with wines from the vineyard of the same name in neighboring Pernand-Verglesses, this balanced wine shows ripe tropical fruits as well as toasted wood flavors. It is structured and still developing its rich potential. Drink from 2017.Aux Vergelesses Premier Cru9244BurgundySavigny-lès-BeauneRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Dublère 2011 Aux Vergelesses Premier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune)ChardonnayDomaine Dublère
1569015689FranceDespite showing a relatively dark straw hue, this wine is fresh and floral on the nose. The full-bodied palate is lushly textured, showing amply concentrated melon and apricot fruit and a dusting of white pepper. Drink it over the next year or two.Les Archevêques9299Rhône ValleyCondrieuJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzLes Vins de Vienne 2010 Les Archevêques (Condrieu)ViognierLes Vins de Vienne

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