Wine Reviews

1629716296FranceOne of the many chateaus with vines on the wide valley floor of the Dordogne, this estate has made a lightly extracted wine that has chocolate as well as blackberry stalkiness. There's freshness as well, with fruit acidity that cuts through the mineral texture. Drink from 2018.8725BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau la Chapelle Despagnet 2011 Saint-ÉmilionBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau la Chapelle Despagnet
1629816297FranceThe smoky aroma and toasty wood character smothers the fruit. It is a tough wine at this stage although it does hint at some of the 2012 juicy fruit flavors. Drink this firm, solid wine from 2018.8720BordeauxSaint-EstèpheRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau la Haye 2012 Saint-EstèpheBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau la Haye
1629916298FranceThis smoky wine has firm tannins and a tough core. The juicy fruit is taking its time to develop, although it will give the wine density and ripe berries in time. The vineyard, created in the early 1980s is now at peak maturity. Drink from 2017.8718BordeauxMédocRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Lacombe Noaillac 2012 MédocBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Lacombe Noaillac
1630016299USSwathes of fresh tarragon lend a green, herbal tone to cassis and black plum flavors in this pretty wine. Penetrating, grippy tannins are jolting on the finish, underlining a tight, brisk finish.8725New YorkFinger LakesFinger LakesAnna Lee C. IijimaChateau Lafayette Reneau 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Finger Lakes)Cabernet SauvignonChateau Lafayette Reneau
1630116300FranceOne of Bordeaux's more memorable labels (orange nymphs supporting a picture of the chateau), Saransot-Dupré is one of a number of chateaus in Listrac with the Dupré suffix. This is a solid wine, chunky in a typical way for the appellation with plenty of black fruits and balanced tannins. Drink from 2017.8725BordeauxListrac-MédocRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Saransot-Dupré 2012 Listrac-MédocBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Saransot-Dupré
1629116290SpainLeesy on the nose like the name implies, this Godello smells creamy, with notes of apple and melon. The palate shows moderate citric acidity but nothing scouring, while flavors of ripe apple, orange and powdered sugar finish leesy and peachy.Sobre Lias8720Northern SpainValdeorrasMichael Schachner@wineschachViña Somoza 2013 Sobre Lias Godello (Valdeorras)GodelloViña Somoza
1630216301FranceJuicy and fruity with acidity and black currant fruits, this wine comes from a vineyard on slopes at the entrance to Saint-Émilion. It's bright and fresh with lively, easy fruits and soft tannins. Drink from 2017.8720BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Simard 2012 Saint-ÉmilionBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Simard
1629216291USLemony-vanilla crème brûlée rises to the fore in this medium-bodied Chardonnay. Medium to high in acidity, it retains a crisp freshness throughout its layers of fruit, finishing clean.8720CaliforniaSonoma ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneWellington 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma Valley)ChardonnayWellington
1630316302FranceThe 60% Cabernet in the blend gives a dark fruit character. At this young stage, the wood aging still dominates with its burnt toast and chocolate character. For the future, while the wine will be dry, it also has plenty of fresh fruit. Drink from 2018.87BordeauxMédocRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Taffard de Blaignan 2012 MédocBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Taffard de Blaignan
1630416303USThis single-vineyard wine offers wild blueberry with vanilla and herb accents. It's full bodied and high-octane in feel with the flavors running straight down the fairway.Cockburn Ranch Vineyard8726WashingtonWalla Walla Valley (WA)Columbia ValleySean P. Sullivan@wawinereportCollege Cellars 2012 Cockburn Ranch Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley (WA))SyrahCollege Cellars
1630516304USGrass and gooseberry are prominent on the nose and palate in this crisp SB, bright in dialed-high acidity. That sense of vibrant freshness mellows somewhat midway through the wine, allowing it to finish with a lushness on the tongue.Estate8732CaliforniaCalistogaNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneCoquerel Family Wine Estates 2012 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Calistoga)Sauvignon BlancCoquerel Family Wine Estates
1630616305USOodles of black cherry and boysenberry fill the aromas and flavors of this bold but not-too-big wine. The rich, ripe fruit shows right away in the nose, and continues on the palate but gets reined in a bit (in a good way) by a firm texture created by good acidity and tannins.8718CaliforniaAmador CountySierra FoothillsJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsDrytown 2012 Primitivo (Amador County)PrimitivoDrytown
1630716306ItalyAromas of cured meat, stewed fruit and toasted oak lead the nose. On the ripe palate, notes of powdered sage, vanilla and oak spices accent fleshy black plum. Bracing tannins provide the framework, but drink soon to capture the fruit richness.Vigna Manapetra Riserva8758TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeFattoria La Lecciaia 2009 Vigna Manapetra Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino)SangioveseFattoria La Lecciaia
1630816307FranceThis is an onion-skin-colored wine, ripe and showing some maturity as well as rich red and citrus fruits. It is beautifully balanced, the pure, crisp fruit elegantly integrated into the lightly mineral texture. This stylish bottling is ready to drink.Brut Rosé94299ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerKrug NV Brut Rosé (Champagne)Champagne BlendKrug
1630916308FranceThis is a blend of fruit from the Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Blancs. The result is a wine that is now showing maturity while not completely losing the apricot and pineapple-flavored fruits. A taut mineral texture lies behind the richness, suggesting that this wine will age further. Ideally drink from 2018.Exception Blanche Brut9482ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerMailly Grand Cru 2004 Exception Blanche Brut Chardonnay (Champagne)ChardonnayMailly Grand Cru
1631016309PortugalProduced from a field blend of 41 different varieties of 60-year-old vines, this estate wine from Cristiano van Zeller is powerful and dense while having such style. Smoothly polished, rich and concentrated. The wine is perfumed, full of black plum skins and with light acidity at the end. Drink from 2020.9456DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerQuinta Vale Dona Maria 2013 Red (Douro)Portuguese RedQuinta Vale Dona Maria
1629316292ItalyA blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot, this conveys aromas of vanilla, oak, red currant and cedar. The hearty palate displays mature plum, dried cherry, espresso and bell pepper alongside drying tannins. It finishes with the heat of alcohol.Sorugo8740TuscanyBolgheri SuperioreKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeAia Vecchia 2010 Sorugo (Bolgheri Superiore)Red BlendAia Vecchia
1629416293ArgentinaHerbal and foresty up front, this Bordeaux blend smells of fig, caramel and berry fruits. Big, tannic and chunky on the palate, this has toasty, chocolaty, burnt flavors and a blackened finish. This offers a lot of power and fruit but it's brusk.Cavas de Crianza8719Mendoza ProvinceMendozaMichael Schachner@wineschachClos de Chacras 2010 Cavas de Crianza Red (Mendoza)Bordeaux-style Red BlendClos de Chacras
1629516294SpainSimple brown sugar scents make for a monotone bouquet. Creamy and thick on the palate, this PX tastes largely of maple syrup and toffee. Overall, it delivers sweetness and toffee notes but not much complexity.Premium Pedro Ximénez8725AndaluciaJerezMichael Schachner@wineschachDelgado Zuleta NV Premium Pedro Ximénez Pedro Ximénez (Jerez)Pedro XiménezDelgado Zuleta
1629616295SpainNeutral on the nose except for a whiff of apple, this is a wine to drink now. A round, pulpy palate is balanced by citric acidity, while waxy flavors of baked apple and peach finish briny and round, with a hint of green banana.Joven8710CataloniaTerra AltaMichael Schachner@wineschachFinca Hispana 2013 Joven Garnacha Blanca (Terra Alta)Garnacha BlancaFinca Hispana
1631116310FranceProduced from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this balances ripe red berry and citrus fruits with more mature spice and vanilla. With this development has come depth, concentration and richness. It is a wine to drink with food, ripe and finishing with crisp, dry acidity.Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Brut Rosé94260ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerBillecart-Salmon 2006 Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Brut Rosé (Champagne)Champagne BlendBillecart-Salmon
1631216311PortugalThe liquorous old gold color of this wine indicates the long barrel aging. It is rich with spice, dried fruits and old wood flavors all finely interwoven. The wine, which originated in a field blend of old vines, has a final shot of acidity to bring it to life.30 Years Old Tawny9470PortRoger Voss@vossrogerChurchill's NV 30 Years Old Tawny (Port)PortChurchill's
1631316312AustraliaFull bodied, creamy and lush, this is a prototypical Barossa Valley Shiraz from a longtime master of the variety. Smoke, cedar, mulberry and eucalyptus notes mingle easily on the nose, while savory notes of roasted meat and dried herb blend seamlessly into the fruit, ending long, velvety and rich.Eligo94100South AustraliaBarossa ValleyJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzJohn Duval Wines 2013 Eligo Shiraz (Barossa Valley)ShirazJohn Duval Wines
1631416313FranceA blend of grapes from Cumières in the Marne Valley and the Côte des Blancs, this is a rich, well-balanced and very young brut rosé. It is ripe, while keeping an almost austere texture and acidity that will soften and broaden out as it ages. Drink now for the lively red fruits, but better to wait until 2019.Rosé Brut9480ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerLouis Roederer 2011 Rosé Brut (Champagne)Champagne BlendLouis Roederer
1631516314USNamed for the winery's co-proprietor and founder, Lynn's is powerfully graceful, much like the man himself, offering seamless texture and length. Full bodied and complex, it's structured and ripely satisfying in its mix of black tea, grenadine and feral evocations of a walk in the woods.Lynn's Blend Quail Hill Vineyard9485CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneLynmar 2014 Lynn's Blend Quail Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirLynmar
1631616315SpainDark and dense as the dead of night, this robust RDD is pushing aromas of blackberry, cassis, black tea and cola. The palate is reaching maturity while showing energy and balance. Flavors of root beer, savory beef, soy and vanilla accent blackberry fruit, while the finish is plump, with ready tannins. Drink through 2022.Alfa Spiga9445Northern SpainRibera del DueroMichael Schachner@wineschachO. Fournier 2010 Alfa Spiga (Ribera del Duero)Tinta del PaisO. Fournier
1631716316ItalyRipe and structured, this full-bodied red opens with alluring scents of star anise, dark-skinned berry, underbrush, leather and a balsamic note. On the juicy palate, menthol, licorice and baking spice accent a core of black cherry. Noble tannins provide the framework. Drink 2018–2023.Montestefano Riserva9458PiedmontBarbarescoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeProduttori del Barbaresco 2011 Montestefano Riserva (Barbaresco)NebbioloProduttori del Barbaresco
1631816317AustriaThe whole world of apricots is represented here: fresh, candied and dried. The concentration on the palate is immense, the scent is disarming, the sweetness is beyond luscious. Aromatic blood-orange peel and flesh provide an equally fragrant counterbalance. Irresistible now but of such richness and concentration that time will have nothing on it. Drink now and through 2030 at least.Ausbruch9430BurgenlandAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoRosenhof 2013 Ausbruch Traminer (Burgenland)TraminerRosenhof
1631916318USThere's an elegant weave to the aromas of this bottling, with soy, dried dill, peppercorns, crushed gravel and a touch of cedar laced throughout the black fruit on the nose. Perfectly rounded black currant, black cassis and black cherry fruits show on the sip, which is leveled by violets and pencil shavings.Reserve9465CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannDaou 2013 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles)Cabernet SauvignonDaou
1632016319ItalyFragrant and polished, this offers enticing aromas of spiced plum, rose, aromatic herb and menthol. The elegant, linear palate doles out red cherry, crushed raspberry, anise, pipe tobacco and mineral set against firm, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity. Drink 2018 through 2028.Tre Vigne9442PiedmontGattinaraKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeTravaglini 2010 Tre Vigne (Gattinara)NebbioloTravaglini

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