Wine Reviews


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1881118810FranceBrut nature is a bone-dry style of Champagne, dry well beyond ordinary brut, which lends a steely refinement to the usual toast and fruit. This wine is absolutely built for oysters or caviar. Though it’s a rarely seen style of Champagne, this is an excellent effort.Cuvée Ultra Brut9165ChampagneChampagnePaul Gregutt@paulgwine Laurent-Perrier NV Cuvée Ultra Brut (Champagne)Champagne BlendLaurent-Perrier
1881218811USA very fun and pure-pleasure rendering of California sparkling wine. From some of the best grapes in Mendocino County, Pacific Echo has hit a home run. Delicious pear and apple fruit unfolds in sweet, nutty form. It’s creamy yet crisp in the mouth, and thirst-quenching—a nice bonus. Equal parts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.Private Reserve Brut9132CaliforniaAnderson ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachPacific Echo 1992 Private Reserve Brut (Anderson Valley)Champagne BlendPacific Echo
1881318812USAn atypically oaky wine for Siduri, with a rich veneer of French oak overlying black cherries, cola and spice. The intensity builds on the palate, where root beer and black cherries culminate in a long, smoky-spicy finish. Needs a couple of years to pull itself together, but the raw materials are all there.Archery Summit Vineyard9149CaliforniaCaliforniaCalifornia OtherJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzSiduri 1998 Archery Summit Vineyard Pinot Noir (California)Pinot NoirSiduri
1881418813USCommanding nose, with cherry, purple basil, mineral and meaty elements. Fine depth of fruit, with sweet-tart and earthy notes, and a brisk mouthfeel. The tangy finish with its tart cherry, mineral and earth complexity holds you a long time. Serious, and fulfills Domaine Drouhin Oregon's promise to make great Pinot Noir on a par with Burgundy.9138OregonOregonOregon OtherDomaine Drouhin 1998 Pinot Noir (Oregon)Pinot NoirDomaine Drouhin
1881518814USTree bark and pine needles mark the aromas, adding woodsy complexity and weight to ripe black cherries. Full and somewhat backward, this needs a few years to sort itself out and fully express its generous nature, but you can sense the future now in its power and velvety texture.Freedom Hill Vineyard9148OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzPanther Creek 1998 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirPanther Creek
1881618815USAn ultrapure nose and tons of polish and precision define this tasty reserve-style blend of several vineyards. Pretty much an easy-drinker, with an undercurrent of sweet cherries and vanilla. It hits all chords and fades away smooth. Style and power come in proper proportions. Will age nicely for at least five years.Reserve9136OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachPanther Creek 1998 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirPanther Creek
1881718816USA tight, rich, dense package, wrapped in just the right amount of French oak. Black cherries are blended with foresty aromas and a dark earthy richness reminiscent of humus. It’s all capped by wonderfully vivid and balanced acidity that gives a little extra length to the chocolate-cherry finish.Reserve9136OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyCristom 1998 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirCristom
1881818817USA solid wine with lots of character and a core of ripe, almost sweet cherry fruit. The sweetness is balanced by complex leather, tarragon and earth aromas, and on the palate by an attractive mineral note that continues to the long finish. Crisp acidity and firm tannins provide a good frame for evolution. Cellar for 3 or 4 years.Reserve9130OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyArgyle 1998 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirArgyle
1882118820USVery youthful, so the first aromas are of a wild field, with some cranberry. It’s a full-volume wine, with an appealing chunky forwardness but also bright acidity, style and character. In a word, it’s “balanced.” Will go with almost anything, from baked salmon to dark chocolate. A real pleaser, especially at this price point. Best Buy.9018OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachElk Cove 1998 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirElk Cove
1882218821FranceA richly opulent blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. It is rich, almost too rich due to its low acidity, but with some attractive melon, green plum and peach fruits. The spice from wood adds interest.8714Southwest FranceBergerac SecRoger Voss@vossrogerLionel Osmin & Cie 2010 White (Bergerac Sec)Bordeaux-style White BlendLionel Osmin & Cie
1882318822ItalyFiore di Campo is a blended white wine from northeast Italy and as its Italian name suggests, there are indeed many aromas here that recall fresh field flowers. Distant accents of dried hay, crushed mineral and citrus fill out the background.Fiore di Campo8722Northeastern ItalyVenezia GiuliaLis Neris 2008 Fiore di Campo White (Venezia Giulia)White BlendLis Neris
1882418823GermanyLean and crisp, with lime and green apple notes that finish clean and refreshing. Devoid of much sweetness, this is a relentlessly dry Riesling, linear in profile and sharply focused.Estate Dry8715MoselJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzVon Schleinitz 2009 Estate Dry Riesling (Mosel)RieslingVon Schleinitz
1882518824USZucca has made a fragrant and floral Sangiovese Rosato here, dry like cherry jam on toast and a nutty finish. Pair it with tropically seasoned seafood.Sangiovese Rosato8718CaliforniaAmador CountySierra FoothillsVirginie Boone@vbooneZucca 2010 Sangiovese Rosato Rosé (Amador County)RoséZucca
1882618825ArgentinaFor Torrontés, this is a juicy, solid example. Smells of orange blossom and lychee, which is backed up by a thorough palate with lime, lemon and tangerine flavors. Shows balance, verve, modest depth and clarity. Drink now.8713OtherSaltaMichael Schachner@wineschachAlberti 154 2010 Torrontés (Salta)TorrontésAlberti 154
1882718826ArgentinaCitrusy in style, with aromas of orange, passion fruit and grapefruit. Feels flush and full-bodied, with basic tangerine and navel orange flavors. Fresh on the finish but hollow in terms of depth, with a light fade.Dedicación Personal8718Mendoza ProvinceMichael Schachner@wineschachAlfredo Roca 2011 Dedicación Personal Sauvignon BlancSauvignon BlancAlfredo Roca
1882818827ArgentinaAn aggressive, forceful blend of one-third each Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc and Merlot that's scratchy and a bit green on the nose, but also very dark and heavy with berry aromas. Feels raw and tannic, with extracted flavors of baked berry and herbs. Finishes minty and tough.Libertad Vineyards Finca Libertad87Mendoza ProvinceMendozaMichael Schachner@wineschachBenegas 2008 Libertad Vineyards Finca Libertad Red (Mendoza)Bordeaux-style Red BlendBenegas
1882918828ArgentinaA blend of Malbec, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon with lightly herbal red fruit aromas that come across reedy and foxy. Lively and a little scratchy in the mouth, with raspberry and buttery plum flavors. Shows more than adequate freshness and pulse, but breaks apart when held up to higher scrutiny.Pasodoble8720Mendoza ProvinceMendozaMichael Schachner@wineschachBodega Poesia 2009 Pasodoble Red (Mendoza)Red BlendBodega Poesia
1883018829ItalyMade from an Italian grape called Incrocio Manzoni 6.0.13, this fresh white wine opens with aromas of honeydew melon, peach, passion fruit and almond paste. It shows a silky, smooth feel in the mouth.Nina8717VenetoVenetoCà Di Rajo 2008 Nina Manzoni (Veneto)ManzoniCà Di Rajo
1883118830FranceExhibiting stalky blackberry fruits, this wine is on the austere side, promising some good aging. The fruit, acidity and tannins are in fine balance.8714Southwest FranceBergeracRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Tour des Gendres 2010 Red (Bergerac)Bordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Tour des Gendres
1883218831ItalyHere's a fresh and crisp Pinot Grigio that offers many more layers of intensity and personality than your standard, supermarket-bought Grigio. It shows creamy layers of silky, ripe fruit.8718Northeastern ItalyColli Orientali del FriuliColutta 2010 Pinot Grigio (Colli Orientali del Friuli)Pinot GrigioColutta
1883318832FranceA fresh and white-fruited wine. It has the crispest acidity along with open melon and peach fruits, moving to a soft, ripe aftertaste. A great apéritif wine.Signature8715ProvenceCôtes de ProvenceRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine de la Sanglière 2010 Signature White (Côtes de Provence)White BlendDomaine de la Sanglière
1883418833USCherry flavors turn a bit syrupy, with a sour cherry candy appeal. Acidic and slightly volatile, this tight, chewy wine spent 14 months in 40% new French oak barrels.Estate Selection8734OregonDundee HillsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Erath 2009 Estate Selection Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills)Pinot NoirErath
1883518834USHere's a big, lusty Syrah, unapologetic for its lush, ripe flavors and easy deliciousness. It's so fruity in cherries, blackberries, cola and dark chocolate, it's almost a dessert wine, except that it finishes dry.Estate8732CaliforniaDry Creek ValleySonomaEverett Ridge 2008 Estate Syrah (Dry Creek Valley)SyrahEverett Ridge
1883618835ArgentinaDark and sweet smelling, with marzipan, coconut, licorice and black fruit aromas. Surprisingly clacky and tartaric feeling, with oak-slathered berry flavors that are both baked and racy. Shows flashes of quality flavors, but the mouthfeel and overall balance are just o.k.Synthesis8734Mendoza ProvinceTupungatoMichael Schachner@wineschachFinca Sophenia 2009 Synthesis Malbec (Tupungato)MalbecFinca Sophenia
1883718836USThough two years older than the widely available Oregon bottling from Firesteed, this wine is almost its twin. Elegant and balanced, with light flavors of wild berry and an herbal underpinning.8730OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Firesteed 2007 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirFiresteed
1883818837USSalty is not a common descriptor for Pinot Gris, but appropriate here. Crisp apple, Asian pear, unripe peach, a dusting of cinnamon, and some slightly bitter skin flavors combine here; the acids rule.8714OregonRogue ValleySouthern OregonPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Foris 2010 Pinot Gris (Rogue Valley)Pinot GrisForis
1883918838ArgentinaAs prices for Argentinean Malbecs climb, this is a really good value. It's earthy and full, and slightly rustic on the nose. Feels ripe and rugged, with scratchy tannins supporting red berry and oak-based vanilla notes. Feels fresh and good for a large-production Malbec.8710Mendoza ProvinceMendozaMichael Schachner@wineschachGouguenheim Winery 2009 Malbec (Mendoza)MalbecGouguenheim Winery
1884018839AustriaThere can be few Pinot Blancs that come in such a heavy bottle. Once the wine is poured, it's a fresh apple and cream wine, with attractive acidity and a soft aftertaste. Some toast shows through at the end.87LeithabergRoger Voss@vossrogerHillinger 2010 Pinot Blanc (Leithaberg)Pinot BlancHillinger
1881918818FranceHere is a wonderfully ripe, round, fruit-laden and full-bodied Champagne, with a richness unusual for a 100% Chardonnay blanc de blancs. It's so brimming with delicious fruit one is tempted to call it almost fleshy. Seductive and sensuous, with a lip-licking, lingering finish.Grande Cru Blanc de Blancs9145ChampagneChampagnePaul Gregutt@paulgwine Soutiran NV Grande Cru Blanc de Blancs (Champagne)Champagne BlendSoutiran
1882018819USEarthy and engaging, and a little bit rugged. Aromas of barnyard and Middle Eastern tahini set up a palate full of spiced-up curranty fruit. Light oak shows itself early in a finish that unfolds in layers, revealing complexity and class.3 Vineyard9025OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachChehalem 1998 3 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirChehalem

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