Wine Reviews


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2241122410USIn vintage after vintage, the winery has chosen to make this blush wine heavier than most rosés in California. They've done so again in 2013, giving a darkly colored, fruity wine you could almost drink unchilled as a table red. It has a Beaujolais-like cherry jamminess that is frankly delicious.Deep Rosé of8720CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaIsabel Mondavi 2013 Deep Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonIsabel Mondavi
2241222411SpainInitially this wine is flat and a bit chemical on the nose, but with time lime and tropical fruit aromas poke through. The mouthfeel is round but a little bland and broken up, while flavors of yeasty, bready tropical fruits and applesauce finish easy but flabby.Selección Especial 18718AndaluciaMálagaMichael Schachner@wineschachJorge Ordóñez & Co. 2012 Selección Especial 1 Moscatel (Málaga)MoscatelJorge Ordóñez & Co.
2241322412USMade from 100% Grenache grapes, it was made in a tiny amount of 50 cases. It offers an almost grenadine-like flavor amidst a core of peach intensity. Softly textured, it's super enjoyable and would go well with a bowl of fruit, eggs and bacon at brunch.Rosé of8724CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneKobler 2013 Rosé of Grenache (Russian River Valley)GrenacheKobler
2241422413USThough it makes up only a fifth of the wine, Cabernet Sauvignon seems to win out in this largely Bordeaux-style blend with notes of mixed herbs, mint and green tea. Lighter in style, it offers a fresh feel, slightly chalky tannins, and little obvious new oak influence. It adds up to a low-alcohol wine that goes down easy.Garnet8715WashingtonWahluke SlopeColumbia ValleySean P. Sullivan@wawinereportKyra 2011 Garnet Red (Wahluke Slope)Red BlendKyra
2241522414USVery ripe and deliciously forward in cherries, cola, bacon, anise and sweet smoky sandalwood, with silky tannins. The acidity is a bit low, giving the wine a softness that limits ageability. Now–2011.8844CaliforniaSonoma CoastSonomaFreeman 2007 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)Pinot NoirFreeman
2241622415AustriaPure Blaufränkisch, giving sweet fruit, an earthy series of tannins and fresh acidity. Pepper and spicy black currants give texture and a bright, red-hued finish.Hochacker8811MittelburgenlandRoger Voss@vossrogerGesellmann 2007 Hochacker Blaufränkisch (Mittelburgenland)BlaufränkischGesellmann
2241722416USVery firm and tannic, this gently earthy Merlot-dominated blend also includes 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. Cranberry and pomegranate red fruits are softened with buttery oak, and the wine shows more polish than in previous vintages.8830WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Zerba Cellars 2006 Merlot (Columbia Valley (WA))MerlotZerba Cellars
2241822417USCalifornia Viognier doesn't get any richer than this. Although it's dry, it has high-alcohol glycerine that gives a honeyed sweetness to the flamboyant pineapple, nectarine, peach and lemon cream flavors. Drink this unctuously soft wine as a cocktail by itself with savory appetizers.The Glenrose Vineyard8830CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastAdelaida 2008 The Glenrose Vineyard Viognier (Paso Robles)ViognierAdelaida
2241922418USWhether it's the vintage, or simply the evolution of winemaking at this new winery, this reserve Chardonnay is more restrained and structured than past efforts. Still young and compact, it shows succulent green apple and white peach flavors along with toast and butterscotch.Reserve8820WashingtonYakima ValleyColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Airfield Estates 2008 Reserve Chardonnay (Yakima Valley)ChardonnayAirfield Estates
2242022419AustraliaThis vintage of the Reiver seems mintier than others, and at times the mint seemed a dominant feature of this wine, which otherwise offers jammy berry fruit and chocolate aromas and flavors. At 15% abv, it's not a shy wine, but neither is it as richly textured as might be expected. Drink it 2013–2020.Reiver8855South AustraliaBarossa ValleyJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzMitolo 2007 Reiver Shiraz (Barossa Valley)ShirazMitolo
2242122420USWhat a nice Riesling, and look at that price. It's crisp and rich, with an oily texture and interesting flavors of citrus, honeysuckle and that complex organic taste known as diesel or lighter fluid. Although there's a sweet finish, the wine is fundamentally dry. This is one of the best values now on the American market.889CaliforniaCaliforniaCalifornia OtherBogle 2008 Riesling (California)RieslingBogle
2242222421South AfricaBrambleberry, pepper and smoke lead this distinctive red blend from Capaia. Red berries, pepper and spice have South African character, and are enlivened by good acidity and a minerally finish. A refreshing but savory everyday red; pair with lamb or game.Blue Grove Hill8821PhiladelphiaSusan Kostrzewa@suskostrzewaCapaia 2007 Blue Grove Hill Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon (Philadelphia)Merlot-Cabernet SauvignonCapaia
2242322422FrancePlenty of dry Malbec tannins here. In fact, this verges on the austere, piling high on to the fruit. There is density, those tannins going right through the wine, finishing with acidity. Tough at this stage: give it 2–3 years.Le Prestige8815Southwest FranceCahorsRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau la Reyne 2007 Le Prestige Malbec (Cahors)MalbecChâteau la Reyne
2242422423FranceIn a modern, smooth style, with plush fruit and dusty tannins, this is a ripe, open wine, an easy expression of Malbec, New World in its fruitiness.Zette Rouge889Southwest FranceCahorsRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Lagrézette 2005 Zette Rouge Malbec (Cahors)MalbecChâteau Lagrézette
2242522424ChileSolid, dark, acidic and tannic wine made from five red grapes. The nose deals cola, olive, leather and undefined saucy aromas, which are backed by flavors of red fruits, herbs and olive. Finishes with a wave of red fruit flavor but also tough, grabby, lasting tannins. Drink now through 2013.Lien8819Colchagua ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachMaquis 2006 Lien Red (Colchagua Valley)Red BlendMaquis
2242622425USA benchmark style for Washington Riesling, this mixes stone and citrus fruits, adds highlights of wintergreen spice, hints of honeysuckle, lemon and tea, and finishes with some fruit sweetness, though the wine is essentially dry.Traditions8813WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Milbrandt 2008 Traditions Riesling (Columbia Valley (WA))RieslingMilbrandt
2242722426AustriaThis may be simple Zweigelt, but it has a great structure, bringing out an impressively complex juice and tannin combination, with a ripe sweet character, black berry fruits and a core of tight, mineral tannins. The finish is open, warm and juicy.8815BurgenlandRoger Voss@vossrogerNittnaus Anita und Hans 2008 Zweigelt (Burgenland)ZweigeltNittnaus Anita und Hans
2242822427PortugalA ripe, jammy, caramel style, with super-sweet fruit and spice followed by toast and fig jam. The wine is big, bold, opulent, finishing with bright berry flavors.Late Bottled Vintage8820PortRoger Voss@vossrogerQuinta da Gaivosa 2004 Late Bottled Vintage (Port)PortQuinta da Gaivosa
2242922428South AfricaThis embraceable, fruity Pinotage offers mocha, plum and red berry aromas and a full, mouthfilling wave of citrus, plum, spice and banana on the plate. The finish is soft cut spicy. A great go-to red with everyday appeal.Phanto Ridge Limited Release8819RobertsonSusan Kostrzewa@suskostrzewaRobertson Winery 2007 Phanto Ridge Limited Release Pinotage (Robertson)PinotageRobertson Winery
2243022429AustraliaNamed for the famous Shiraz-growing district at the north end of the Barossa Valley, Penfolds' Kalimna Shiraz is in fact a multiregional South Australian blend that aims to recreate the Kalimna style. It succeeds admirably, albeit without the intensity and complexity that marks the best Barossan Shirazes, combining raspberries with touches of plum and prune before turning chocolaty on the finish. Drink now–2015.Bin 28 Kalimna8826South AustraliaBarossa ValleyJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzPenfolds 2006 Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz (Barossa Valley)ShirazPenfolds
2243122430USRich in smoky oak and ripe fruit, showing powerful, dry flavors of blackberries, black cherries, sour cherry candy and sweet herbs. The tannins are a bit scoury and edgy, like sandpaper on the palate. Should mellow over the next 2–3 years, but it's not an ager.Hall Ranch8841CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastRobert Hall 2006 Hall Ranch Meritage (Paso Robles)MeritageRobert Hall
2243222431USVery rich, extracted and soft in tannins and acids, a melt-in-your-mouth Zin with almost sweet flavors of milk chocolate, crushed ripe cherries, licorice, caramelized wood and oodles of black pepper. Should develop over the next 4–6 years.Century Vines Estate Grown8840CaliforniaAlexander ValleySonomaSausal 2007 Century Vines Estate Grown Zinfandel (Alexander Valley)ZinfandelSausal
2243322432USReleased too young, at just over a year of age, this Pinot tastes sugary, with primary fruit essence, glycerine, alcohol and caramelized oak giving it an uncomfortable sweetness. It's probably technically dry, and should actually taste dry by 2011, but it's certainly not ready to drink before mid-2010.Cargasacchi Vineyard8850CaliforniaSta. Rita HillsCentral CoastSiduri 2008 Cargasacchi Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills)Pinot NoirSiduri
2243422433USModerately soft, loose-knit, and lightly herbal, this pure, single-vineyard Cabernet is a modest but charming effort with warm currant fruit. The aging in French and American oak shows a little too aggressively at the moment, so decant.Reserve8820WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Snoqualmie 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley (WA))Cabernet SauvignonSnoqualmie
2243522434USThis cool-climate Pinot Gris is balanced and light, and it offers refreshing layers of citrus, almond and peach. It will pair with goat cheese and seafood-based appetizers, and it will also be enjoyed on its own8920CaliforniaAnderson ValleyVirginie Boone@vbooneNavarro 2011 Pinot Gris (Anderson Valley)Pinot GrisNavarro
2243622435USThis well-structured effort is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, and it bears nuances of herb and briar. There is a balanced mix of plum and black cherry flavors that are wreathed in smoke and coffee notes, which resolve into firm but smooth tannins.Red Willow Vineyard 1973 Block8972WashingtonYakima ValleyColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Owen Roe 2010 Red Willow Vineyard 1973 Block Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley)Cabernet SauvignonOwen Roe
2243722436USThe amount of alcohol in this Syrah has increased in 2010, which will appeal to some palates. The downside is the loss of texture and subtlety. Smooth and powerfully fruity, this hits with some chewy tannins, but it stops a bit short. More bottle age could certainly be a boon to this wine.Red Willow Vineyard Chapel Block8955WashingtonYakima ValleyColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Owen Roe 2010 Red Willow Vineyard Chapel Block Syrah (Yakima Valley)SyrahOwen Roe
2243822437PortugalErvamoira, one of the most remote of the Douro estates, produces this full, fruity 10-year-old tawny. It's already drinkable, and it offers almond, raisin and treacle flavors that are lifted by the acids. Drink now.RP10 Quinta da Ervamoira Tawny 10 Years8940PortRoger Voss@vossrogerRamos-Pinto NV RP10 Quinta da Ervamoira Tawny 10 Years (Port)PortRamos-Pinto
2243922438ItalyThis wine shows the meaty, masculine side of Sangiovese, offering dark tones of prune, plum, wet earth, tobacco and dried violet. The grape's signature freshness washes away any residual heaviness imparted by the wine's richness.Tenuta di Renieri Riserva8926TuscanyChianti ClassicoRenieri 2008 Tenuta di Renieri Riserva (Chianti Classico)SangioveseRenieri
2244022439New ZealandStaete Landt's upscale Pinot Noir eschews dark color and extraction in favor of lighter body and soft tannins. Leather, cranberry and cocoa aromas lead the way, followed on the palate by a pie cherry note and a slightly medicinal green-herb edge. Tart and long on the finish, this wine appears to have the potential to mature gracefully through 2020.Paladin8932MarlboroughJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzStaete Landt 2010 Paladin Pinot Noir (Marlborough)Pinot NoirStaete Landt

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