Wine Reviews


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2244122440ItalyA blend of Merlot, Malbec and Caberent Franc, this opens with enormous fruit purity, backed by luscious tones of oak spice and tobacco. The wine's two sensations—sweet and savory—are well integrated. Fresh acidity and firm structure complete the mouthfeel.Lenaia8935TuscanyToscanaCasa di Terra 2011 Lenaia Red (Toscana)Red BlendCasa di Terra
2244222441FranceThis is a hard-edged wine, a typical trait of young Pommard. It has a firm, dry and tannic character, and the ripe, generous fruit sits underneath. Wait for at least five years for this wine to be ready.Clos Blanc Premier Cru8961BurgundyPommardRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine A. Machard de Gramont 2010 Clos Blanc Premier Cru (Pommard)Pinot NoirDomaine A. Machard de Gramont
2244322442FranceFull bodied and ripe, this Chardonnay is packed with yellow fruit and pear flavors, and it shows the steely, minerally character typical of Chablis. It has a youthful brightness on the finish, and it will fill out over the next few months.Vieilles Vignes Fourchaume Premier Cru8980BurgundyChablisRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Vrignaud 2011 Vieilles Vignes Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis)ChardonnayDomaine Vrignaud
2244422443USDry, crisp and clean, this has rich flavors of citrus, honeydew, green apple and vanilla, brightened with keen acidity. This should be relatively easy to find.8910CaliforniaCaliforniaCalifornia OtherGeyser Peak 2012 Pinot Grigio (California)Pinot GrigioGeyser Peak
2244522444ItalyToasted notes of almond and spice give this expression of Cabernet Sauvignon momentum and density. Blackberry, moist earth and tobacco aromas make up the generous bouquet.Mazzaferrata8944TuscanyColli della Toscana CentraleMarchesi Gondi 2006 Mazzaferrata Cabernet Sauvignon (Colli della Toscana Centrale)Cabernet SauvignonMarchesi Gondi
2244622445USAt first this wine seems quite astringent, closed and tight. It shows dark streaks of cassis and dried leaf, and it only reluctantly opens up to expand the black fruit flavor with a wash of Bourbon barrel.8930WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Januik 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley (WA))Cabernet SauvignonJanuik
2244722446USA dry, rich 100% Syrah, this showcases the classic Santa Ynez structure of firm tannins and crisp acids, and it offers deep flavors of blackberry, cassis and bacon. This 2009 is Jorian Hill's best effort yet, and it's already delicious to drink.8924CaliforniaSanta Ynez ValleyCentral CoastJorian Hill 2009 Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley)SyrahJorian Hill
2244822447ItalySquarcialupi Riserva has shown a successful evolution over the years. This bottling opens with tangy aromas of tobacco, dark fruit, clove and eucalyptus. Small percentages of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are added to the blend, but the wine's winning card comes from Sangiovese's natural acidity, which lends the wine a crisp, menthol-like finish.Squarcialupi Riserva8935TuscanyChianti ClassicoLa Castellina 2008 Squarcialupi Riserva (Chianti Classico)SangioveseLa Castellina
2244922448ItalyThis Brunello starts on the timid side and slowly reveals aromas of cherry, cassis, sweet spice, almond paste, plus earthy tones of leather and button mushroom. The palate feels fresh and tight, and the wine ends on spicy notes of clove and cinnamon.8927TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoL'Oca Ciuca 2007 Brunello di MontalcinoSangiovese GrossoL'Oca Ciuca
2245022449FranceBetter known for its red wines, Ladoix's whites are a rarity. This wine is made from fruit sourced from vines that are close to the Corton hill. It is steely, minerally and crisp, with a wood-influenced character. With its structure, this needs at least three years of aging.Le Clou d'Orge8945BurgundyLadoixRoger Voss@vossrogerLouis Jadot 2010 Le Clou d'Orge (Ladoix)ChardonnayLouis Jadot
2245122450USA dry, light-bodied, easy-drinking Riesling, this has zesty lemon and grapefruit flavors, plus undertones of flower and spiced tangerine. The palate shows depth, and the finish is intense.8919CaliforniaAnderson ValleyVirginie Boone@vbooneNavarro 2011 Riesling (Anderson Valley)RieslingNavarro
2245222451FranceThis is a ripe wine, with flavors of apple, pear, caramel and a touch of mineral that is subordinate to the fruit. It is lightly toasty, and the acidity is crisp.Montée de Tonnerre Premier Cru89BurgundyChablisRoger Voss@vossrogerOlivier Leflaive 2010 Montée de Tonnerre Premier Cru (Chablis)ChardonnayOlivier Leflaive
2245322452FranceWith a proportion of premier cru grapes in the blend, this wine has weight and structure as well as the ripe red-fruit flavors that are typical of Santenay. It's richly textured and full in the mouth. The finish is fruity and soft.8945BurgundySantenayRoger Voss@vossrogerOlivier Leflaive 2010 SantenayPinot NoirOlivier Leflaive
2245422453USMade from fruit sourced from the mighty Ferrington Vineyard, this tank-fermented Gewürztraminer is crafted without oak or malolactic fermentation. The result is a light, lemony and floral wine, with moderate acidity and a note of chai tea on the finish that lends an exotic edge.Ferrington Vineyard8919CaliforniaAnderson ValleyVirginie Boone@vboonePhilo Ridge 2010 Ferrington Vineyard Gewurztraminer (Anderson Valley)GewürztraminerPhilo Ridge
2245522454ItalyTouches of bitter toast and roasted almond sit at the top of this wine, followed by smooth aromas of blackberry, prune, leather and tobacco. The palate feels tight and compact, and the finish shows lingering tones of black licorice and spice.Greppone Mazzi89TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoRuffino 2007 Greppone Mazzi (Brunello di Montalcino)Sangiovese GrossoRuffino
2245622455New ZealandAlthough the winery is best known for top-flight aromatic whites, Spy Valley's Pinot Noir is steadily improving, and the 2011 is a notable success. Plummy fruit is accented by hints of toasty oak and damp moss, balanced by crisp acids and delivered on a soft, creamy palate. Ready to drink now, but the wine should also comfortably go another four years.8931MarlboroughJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzSpy Valley 2011 Pinot Noir (Marlborough)Pinot NoirSpy Valley
2245722456USDusty and detailed, this pure Viognier incorporates notes of lemon-pepper; tart, fresh lemon pulp and rind; plus a hint of curry powder. This should make an interesting accompaniment to raw clams or oysters.Alder Ridge Vineyard8920WashingtonHorse Heaven HillsColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Syncline 2011 Alder Ridge Vineyard Viognier (Horse Heaven Hills)ViognierSyncline
2245822457USBarbera, Sangiovese and Nebbiolo comprise the wine. Half of the grapes were air dried for three months, which is known as appassimento. The Sangiovese was crushed and fermented conventionally before being added to the blend. The result is a dry, slightly nutty red wine, with tart flavors that are suggestive of fruit leather. It shows good grip and length, and it comes with just a bit of alcoholic heat.Ripasso8920WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Tre Nova 2009 Ripasso Red (Columbia Valley (WA))Red BlendTre Nova
2245922458USUpon opening, this intense, fragrant wine seems European in style, with Italian-like nuances of leather, fungus and tobacco. The enticing whiffs give way to a full-flavored palate that offers notes of mixed red fruits, while the finish loses some focus.Estate Grown8935WashingtonRed MountainColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Ambassador Vineyard 2010 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain)Cabernet SauvignonAmbassador Vineyard
2246022459FranceAromatic and ripe, this Chardonnay has creamy pear and apricot flavors, plus touches of wood and a warm, rich mouthfeel. It has a soft character, a hint of acidity and lemony freshness.Château de Rully Saint Jacques Cuvée R. de Ternay89BurgundyRullyRoger Voss@vossrogerAntonin Rodet 2011 Château de Rully Saint Jacques Cuvée R. de Ternay (Rully)ChardonnayAntonin Rodet
2246122460IsraelA decadent thread of mocha weaves through the red cherry and raspberry backbone of this wine. Earth, tobacco and black-currant leaf add depth of flavor to the palate, followed by a long, evolving finish that unfolds layer upon layer of nuance and spice. Balanced and quite approachable now; enjoy through 2015.Altitude +6248942IsraelLauren Buzzeo@laurbuzzBarkan 2009 Altitude +624 Cabernet Sauvignon (Israel)Cabernet SauvignonBarkan
2246222461USThis could be labeled as Cabernet Franc, since it comprises 80% of the blend. The youthful lightness of the estate-grown grapes seems to lift the naturally tannic nature of the variety. It's clean and balanced, and it comes with an herbal underpinning. This is best for near-term drinking.Bel Canto Cara Mia Vineyard8955WashingtonRed MountainColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Cadence 2009 Bel Canto Cara Mia Vineyard Red (Red Mountain)Bordeaux-style Red BlendCadence
2246322462IsraelThis wine opens with ripe aromas of black plum and boysenberry fruit, accented by hints of licorice root and menthol. The fruity core continues to shine on the smooth, round palate, alongside accents of purple violet, black tea and oak-driven spice that linger through the close.Sha'al Single Vineyard8933GalileeLauren Buzzeo@laurbuzzCarmel 2009 Sha'al Single Vineyard Merlot (Galilee)MerlotCarmel
2246422463ChileThis is a good yet basic Merlot with baked berry aromas. The mouthfeel is more lively and raw in feel, with modest berry and spice flavors that hit quick and hollow at just as quickly. A standard finish is fine but doesn't evolve.Reserva8611Colchagua ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachSanta Carolina 2011 Reserva Merlot (Colchagua Valley)MerlotSanta Carolina
2246522464USNotes of dried fig, citrus rind and tangerines are spiked with whiffs of potpourri and spice on this richly textured, unctuously sweet iced wine made from late-harvest grapes frozen after harvest. Creamy and lush on the finish, it's brightened by a shower of orange acidity and just a hint of black-tea astringency.EIS Late Harvest8635New YorkCayuga LakeFinger LakesAnna Lee C. IijimaTreleaven 2011 EIS Late Harvest Riesling (Cayuga Lake)RieslingTreleaven
2246622465USThis is a tasty Pinot Noir, but it's not particularly characteristic of Doctor's Vineyard or Santa Lucia Highlands. It's soft, ripe and sweet, and while the raspberry, cherry and red currant flavors are balanced with acidity, the wine tastes like it could have been grown anywhere. Drink now.Vineyard Series Doctor's Vineyard8640CaliforniaSanta Lucia HighlandsCentral CoastAdelaida 2011 Vineyard Series Doctor's Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands)Pinot NoirAdelaida
2246722466USThis limited-production Chardonnay has the scents and flavors of just-baked, well-buttered biscuits. The fruit is a mix of peaches and pears, but the barrel influences—fermentation was done in 20% new French oak—have not quite settled into a seamless whole. That raw edge should smooth out with further time in bottle.8629OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Benton-Lane 2011 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley)ChardonnayBenton-Lane
2246822467GermanyHerbaceous, with notes of fresh leaves, green florals and honeydew, this bargain eiswein is ethereally delicate on the palate. It's honeyed in sweetness, but briskly composed, with sharp lemon acidity.Eiswein8630RheinhessenAnna Lee C. IijimaHeinz Eifel 2012 Eiswein Riesling (Rheinhessen)RieslingHeinz Eifel
2246922468PortugalWith its apricot and ripe pear aromas, this is a full and rounded wine. It has a good balance between acidity and ripe fruit. It is floral, smooth and ready to drink.Vinha Padre Pedro869TejoRoger Voss@vossrogerCasa Cadaval 2012 Vinha Padre Pedro White (Tejo)Portuguese WhiteCasa Cadaval
2247022469FrancePossibly too rich, this is a full, sumptuous wine. It has great weight, density, a smooth, wood-aged character that shows through the sweet plums. For what it is, a very rich wine that shows some pepper alcohol—it offers a juicy character and ageability. Drink from 2016.8615BordeauxBlaye Côtes de BordeauxRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Canteloup 2010 Blaye Côtes de BordeauxBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Canteloup

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