Wine Reviews


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2397623975USSmith-Madrone tends to fly under the radar for Napa Valley Cabernet, but discerning palates understand its place in the pantheon. Vintages aren't always kind to this mountain fruit, but in 2009, the conditions were just right to produce a wine of immaculate structure. It has firm tannins and brisk acidity, and the flavors are classic, suggesting blackberries and cassis. As delicious as it is now, this will have no problem aging 10–15 years.Estate Bottled9445CaliforniaSpring Mountain DistrictNapaSmith-Madrone 2009 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain District)Cabernet SauvignonSmith-Madrone
2397723976New ZealandSubtle toast and roasted cashew notes accent a wonderfully harmonious blend of stone fruit and citrus in this perennial favorite. It's medium to full in body and round without being fat or soft, long on the finish without being overly shrill or crisp. And it has a track record for aging well for up to 10 years or more.Moutere9342NelsonJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzNeudorf 2010 Moutere Chardonnay (Nelson)ChardonnayNeudorf
2397823977USRestrained and elegant, this deeply flavored Pinot Noir takes a masculine turn with threads of iron filings, earth and herb. The blueberry and plum fruit flavors are set against drying tannins. As with all Archery Summit Pinots, the length and balance are outstanding.Arcus Estate93100OregonDundee HillsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Archery Summit 2011 Arcus Estate Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills)Pinot NoirArchery Summit
2397923978GermanyBold in alcohol, with a dry, intensely textured palate, this Riesling is rich and ripe, with notes of honeysuckle, peach and even a hint of berry. It carries its girth well, with a zippy streak of lemon acidity that cuts through all the ripeness, leading to a long, subtly mineral finish.Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Grosse Lage9391RheingauAnna Lee C. IijimaBaron Knyphausen 2011 Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Grosse Lage Riesling (Rheingau)RieslingBaron Knyphausen
2398023979FranceSilex is a flint and sand soil that suits Sauvignon Blanc well. This wine, with tight, nervy texture and crisp lemon character, is still fresh, full of primary citrus and gooseberry flavors. It needs until 2015 to fully integrate and show rich concentration.Sancerre d'Antan9350Loire ValleySancerreRoger Voss@vossrogerHenri Bourgeois 2011 Sancerre d'Antan (Sancerre)Sauvignon BlancHenri Bourgeois
2398123980FranceThe near-vertical slope of the Monts Damnés produces wines that have great elegance, style and impressive richness. This 2011 is still young, needing another year to start to bring out all the complex texture and aromatics. Drink until 2020.La Côte de Monts Damnés9330Loire ValleySancerreRoger Voss@vossrogerHenri Bourgeois 2012 La Côte de Monts Damnés (Sancerre)Sauvignon BlancHenri Bourgeois
2398223981USThis was the final vintage Patrick Campbell fully presided over before selling the winery. It's a dense and compact wine, showing mountain tannins framing black currant, cassis, mineral, violet and new oak flavors. Despite the opulence, the finish is dry. Made from 100% Cabernet, the wine needs time in the cellar. Try it after 2018, and it should be rolling along in the mid-2020s.9360CaliforniaSonoma MountainSonomaLaurel Glen 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Mountain)Cabernet SauvignonLaurel Glen
2398323982PortugalThis is a signature wine for winemaker Cristiano van Zeller. It has all the dense structure of a powerful Douro wine, layers of fruit and acidity and a richly juicy aftertaste. It is still developing its power, so wait to drink until 2017.CV Curriculum Vitae93DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerLemos & Van Zeller 2011 CV Curriculum Vitae Red (Douro)Portuguese RedLemos & Van Zeller
2397123970AustraliaAlways one of Yalumba's top offerings, the 2008 doesn't show any of the vintage's ill effects. Instead, this blend of Cabernet (56%) and Shiraz (44%) offers a rich, open-knit mouthful of chocomint and dark plum, underscored by savory, meaty notes. This is full bodied and supple, yet muscular, with at least a decade of cellaring potential.The Signature9454South AustraliaBarossaJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzYalumba 2008 The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz (Barossa)Cabernet Sauvignon-ShirazYalumba
2398423983ItalyThis opulent Chianti Classico opens with aromas of violets, black berries, meat juices and spice. The delicious palate delivers concentrated black cherry layered with white pepper, cinnamon, clove and balsamic herbs. It's soft and round but at the same time it boasts alluring intensity.Casanuova di Nittardi9335TuscanyChianti ClassicoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeNittardi 2011 Casanuova di Nittardi (Chianti Classico)Red BlendNittardi
2398523984USSo ripe and beautiful in fruit and oak, so balanced in tannins and acids, that it's hard to know whether to enjoy this Cab now or age it. Right now, it's elaborate in blackberry, cherry, currant and new oak flavors, wrapped into insanely fine tannins. But it's also balanced enough to develop bottle complexity over the next 10 years.9385CaliforniaStags Leap DistrictNapaPine Ridge 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District)Cabernet SauvignonPine Ridge
2398623985PortugalThere is a great, juicy feel to this otherwise serious and firm wine. Black fruit flavors push through the structure, offering richness as well as power. The acidity, layers of toast and an impressively fresh feel all come through strongly. It needs aging; drink from 2017.Tinto9336LisboaRoger Voss@vossrogerQuinta de Chocapalha 2009 Tinto Red (Lisboa)Portuguese RedQuinta de Chocapalha
2398723986USThis noted Napa producer has excelled at Petite Sirah for a long time, and with the impressive 2010, they've out-done themselves. The wine comes from a vineyard block, said to be more than 70 years of age, that contains other varieties, such as Carignane, Grenache and Syrah. Thus, it's a field blend of the type that Italian-American vintners produced throughout much of the 20th century. Dry and tannic, with wild berry, currant, licorice, tobacco and oak flavors, the wine is wonderful now, and should develop bottle complexities until 2034.Ne Cede Malis Estate Grown9380CaliforniaStags Leap DistrictNapaStags' Leap Winery 2010 Ne Cede Malis Estate Grown Petite Sirah (Stags Leap District)Petite SirahStags' Leap Winery
2398823987AustraliaPowerful and concentrated, this Shiraz is seemingly imbued with the essence of dark fruit, framed by well-managed oak. Cedar, mint and cassis notes are a bit Cabernet-like, but the structure is pure Shiraz, broader and suppler than Cabernet, with a rich texture and a long finish. Drink now–2025.9337South AustraliaMcLaren ValeJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzChapel Hill 2010 Shiraz (McLaren Vale)ShirazChapel Hill
2398923988USHigh toned and grapy when first opened, this opens up nicely with decanting. Pretty raspberry and light cherry fruit are enhanced with aromas of fresh-cut tobacco and just-picked herbs. The length and detail are impressive.Champoux Vineyard9255WashingtonHorse Heaven HillsColumbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Buty 2009 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc (Horse Heaven Hills)Cabernet Sauvignon-Cabernet FrancButy
2399023989USThis shows a darker shade than most young whites, almost a burnished gold. Soft and complex, with ripe, slightly confected fruit flavors, it's super smooth, with honeysuckle highlights around waxy stone fruits. Excellent length.61% Sémillon/21% Sauvignon/18% Muscadelle9225WashingtonColumbia Valley (WA)Columbia ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Buty 2010 61% Sémillon/21% Sauvignon/18% Muscadelle White (Columbia Valley (WA))White BlendButy
2397223971USPerfumed and strikingly floral, this soft, seductive Pinot is light in color and body, with handsome layerings of strawberry fruit, Asian spice and suggestions of just-unearthed mushrooms or a newly minted Christmas wreath. On the finish, a touch of vanilla-tinged oak rounds things out.Burt Williams' Morning Dew Ranch9475CaliforniaAnderson ValleyVirginie Boone@vbooneWilliams Selyem 2011 Burt Williams' Morning Dew Ranch Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley)Pinot NoirWilliams Selyem
2397323972GermanySpicy saffron and pollen notes add a savory warmth to sweet honey and lemon aromas on this gorgeously complex auslese. It's gingerly and bright on the palate, with tangerine acidity that highlights flavors of sweet peach preserves and jasmine tea. The finish lingers on and on and on.Lorcher Schlossberg Auslese Goldkapsel94154RheingauAnna Lee C. IijimaAugust Kesseler 2011 Lorcher Schlossberg Auslese Goldkapsel Riesling (Rheingau)RieslingAugust Kesseler
2397423973GermanyDried orange rind and saffron notes lend a spicy, exotic flair to sweet, silky honey and marmalade flavors on this beautifully concentrated Riesling. It's delicate in frame, yet intensely penetrating on the palate, with streaks of orange acidity and a bristling tea-leaf astringency that adds complexity to the finish.Erbacher Steinmorgen Auslese Gold Cap94133RheingauAnna Lee C. IijimaBaron Knyphausen 2011 Erbacher Steinmorgen Auslese Gold Cap Riesling (Rheingau)RieslingBaron Knyphausen
2397523974PortugalAssobio is from a single vineyard in the Quinta dos Murças estate. A powerful, structured expression of Douro wine, it has black fruits, dark tannins, some subtle layers of wood aging and great concentration. Dark and richly fruity, it needs to mature before drinking. Wait until 2017.Assobio9413DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerQuinta dos Murças 2011 Assobio Red (Douro)Portuguese RedQuinta dos Murças
2399123990USThe Loner title seems to refer to an absence of oak, although it's not entirely unoaked. The wine spent time in what the winemaker calls “seasoned barriques” that lent no overt oak influence, but let the wine breathe and mellow. Marked by intense lemon, lime and mineral flavors, this bone-dry wine is elegant and eccentric.Loner W10-a9260CaliforniaSanta Maria ValleyCentral CoastSanguis 2010 Loner W10-a Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley)ChardonnaySanguis
2399223991AustriaRich and almost liquorous in its texture, this is powerful stuff. It has weight, with intense, concentrated flavors of tropical fruit, spice and a smooth character. The acidity lends lift on the finish. Screwcap.Oberfeld Erste Lage Alte Reben Reserve92KremstalRoger Voss@vossrogerUnger 2010 Oberfeld Erste Lage Alte Reben Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal)Grüner VeltlinerUnger
2399323992AustriaA rich and creamy wine, this is full of the ripest fruit. It has flavors of yellow fruit and pineapple, with intense acidity. The wine is powerful yet balanced, with a delicious acidity on the finish.Loam92NiederösterreichRoger Voss@vossrogerKurt Angerer 2010 Loam Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich)Grüner VeltlinerKurt Angerer
2399423993AustriaThis is finely proportioned, with intense fruit flavors laced with spice, acidity and a mineral texture. Made using grapes from a single vineyard, it is concentrated, with a depth of intense flavor. For aging over 3–4 years. Screwcap.Obere Steigen9220TraisentalRoger Voss@vossrogerMarkus Huber 2011 Obere Steigen Grüner Veltliner (Traisental)Grüner VeltlinerMarkus Huber
2399523994USA wonderful wine at a great price. This is complex and delicious in blackberry and black currant flavors, with a savory minerality on the finish. As it starts off with tough tannins, allow it to decant.9226CaliforniaBennett ValleySonomaMatanzas Creek 2009 Merlot (Bennett Valley)MerlotMatanzas Creek
2399623995AustriaWhile this is rich, it is also balanced and elegant. This is an impressive, ageworthy wine, with a perfumed, spicy character. It has white fruit and peach flavors and taut acidity. Screwcap.Senftenberger Pellingen Erste Lage Privat9267KremstalRoger Voss@vossrogerNigl 2010 Senftenberger Pellingen Erste Lage Privat Riesling (Kremstal)RieslingNigl
2399723996USCalifornia Malbec by itself tends to be straightforward, which might be why the winemaker blended this one with a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The result is excellent, one of the best Malbecs in California, with rich blackberry, currant and cedar flavors. The strong tannins suggest it should pair well with beef.Dollarhide9250CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaSt. Supéry 2009 Dollarhide Malbec (Napa Valley)MalbecSt. Supéry
2399823997SpainThis five-grape blend is harmonious, with aromas of sweet spice, ripe berry, cherry, licorice and mineral. It's racy, deep and powerful, with dark berry, black plum and oaky, spicy flavors. It's long, elegant and potent on the finish. Drink through 2018.Grans Muralles92109CataloniaPenedèsMichael Schachner@wineschachTorres 2007 Grans Muralles Red (Penedès)Red BlendTorres
2399923998AustriaThis is perfumed with crisp apple and light spice aromas. It's a delicate yet concentrated wine, with acidity that's tempered with pepper and a fresh finish. Screwcap.Gemischter Satz9222ViennaRoger Voss@vossrogerWieninger 2011 Gemischter Satz White (Vienna)Austrian white blendWieninger
2400023999USGive this polished young Pinot Noir some time in the cellar to come around. It's a seriously good wine, dry, tannic and medium-bodied, with a dense core of cherry and plum flavors. If you have to drink it before 2015, give it several hours in a decanter.Estate Grown9265CaliforniaCarnerosNapa-SonomaDonum 2009 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Carneros)Pinot NoirDonum

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