Wine Reviews


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2442124420ItalyMade entirely from organically grown Sangiovese, this opens with red plum, new leather and underbrush aromas. The full-bodied palate delivers crushed raspberry, black cherry, pipe tobacco and a hint of black pepper, with polished tannins providing backbone. Drink through 2022.Riserva9230TuscanyChianti RufinaKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeI Veroni 2013 Riserva (Chianti Rufina)SangioveseI Veroni
2442224421USThis limited production wine advances the proposition that Pinot Gris can be substantial, complex and at least as ageworthy as the better Oregon Chardonnays. The mix of melon, white peach and lemon zest flavors, with compelling minerality, may inspire some additional cellar time. Drink now through 2024.Chalice Estate9222OregonOregonOregon OtherPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Iris Vineyards 2015 Chalice Estate Pinot Gris (Oregon)Pinot GrisIris Vineyards
2442324422USSultry cooked red plum and mulberry fruit meld with rust, mace, sarsaparilla and a touch of wood smoke on the nose of this bottling from the oldest commercial vineyard in Santa Barbara County. Smoked pork loin aromas meet with deep red fruit and the sweet tang of cherry skins on the sip.Nielson Vineyard9245CaliforniaSanta Maria ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannByron 2014 Nielson Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley)Pinot NoirByron
2442424423FranceSituated in the southern Médoc village of Macau, on the edge of the deep Margaux gravels, this estate has produced an impressive and structured wine. It is concentrated with its black currants and dark tannins. It is likely to develop slowly over several years. Drink from 2021.9217BordeauxHaut-MédocRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Belle-Vue 2014 Haut-MédocBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Belle-Vue
2442524424FranceThis is a tight and firm wine that will take some time to develop. The fruit, an almost equal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, is all present and will fill out over the next few years. It is a serious dense wine with great aging potential. Drink from 2021.9220BordeauxHaut-MédocRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Cambon la Pelouse 2014 Haut-MédocBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Cambon la Pelouse
2442624425FranceThis is a finely perfumed wine. It has a strong sense of structure with its tight tannins. It also has lively crisp red fruits that give both acidity and richness to a wine that will develop well. Drink from 2025.9265BordeauxPessac-LéognanRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Couhins-Lurton 2014 Pessac-LéognanBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Couhins-Lurton
2442724426FranceBold fruits dominate this ripe wine. As an estate under the guidance of Hubert de Boüard of Château Angélus, it has made enormous progress. Big tannins are enveloped in the ripe fruit to give a wine that is sumptuous and rich. Drink from 2023.92BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Daugay 2014 Saint-ÉmilionBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Daugay
2442824427FranceOwned by Château Mongravey of Margaux, this estate is in Macau in the southern Médoc. The wine is richly fruity, firmly tannic with both wood and fruit tannin. It is dark, dense and complex, a ripe wine that has a great future. Drink from 2022.9245BordeauxHaut-MédocRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau de Braude 2014 Haut-MédocBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau de Braude
2442924428FranceA good dash of Petit Verdot in the blend has given this fine wine its extra structure. It is still firm and tight at this young stage although the black-currant fruitiness promises much. From vines west of Pauillac, it is impressively solid and dense. Drink from 2022.9212BordeauxHaut-MédocRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Devise d'Ardilley 2014 Haut-MédocBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Devise d'Ardilley
2443024429FranceA small part of Château Peyrabon (Haut-Médoc) is in the Pauillac appellation and is vinified and bottled separately. The wine delivers great fruit and equal richness. It is spice, packed with black plum and berry flavors. It is a powerful dense wine to age for several years. Drink from 2023.9229BordeauxPauillacRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau La Fleur Peyrabon 2014 PauillacBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau La Fleur Peyrabon
2443124430FranceThis estate is under the same management as the neighboring large vineyard of Larose Trintaudon. The wine is stylish with ripe fruit that is balanced with fine acidity. It has structure from a core of tannins that are just beginning to soften. The wine will be ready to drink from 2020.9227BordeauxHaut-MédocRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Larose Perganson 2014 Haut-MédocBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Larose Perganson
2443224431FranceWith vines in the village of Lamarque close to the Gironde estuary, this estate is well placed to benefit from the warmth of the water. The wine, a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot (with the remainder Petit Verdot) is richly structured and dense. It has firm tannins as well as perfumed black-currant fruit. The wine will be ready to drink from 2021.92BordeauxHaut-MédocRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Malescasse 2014 Haut-MédocBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Malescasse
2443324432FranceOne of several vineyards owned by the Vauthier family of Château Ausone, this is a tense wine with great structure as well as delicious ripe fruits. It has spice, a smoky edge and the acidity that is so typical of the vintage. Drink this attractive while structured wine from 2023.92BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Moulin Saint-Georges 2014 Saint-ÉmilionBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Moulin Saint-Georges
2443424433ItalyChopped mint, new leather, forest floor and spiced plum aromas take shape in the glass. The ripe, juicy palate doles out fleshy black cherry, raspberry jam, clove and licorice notes, supported by big, rounded tannins. It's already accessible and seriously delicious. Drink through 2022.9255TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeCollosorbo 2012 Brunello di MontalcinoSangioveseCollosorbo
2443524434FranceThe smell of wet earth is mixed with the scent of ripe peach. The palate is rounded with peachy sweetness which is countered by a pleasant, slightly bitter phenolic texture that accentuates the rich fruit even more. Showing beautiful maturity, this is expressive and ready to drink. The flavors are concentrated, pure and lasting, finishing off dry and lingering long.Altenberg de Bergbieten Grand Cru Les Jardins de Aurélien9235AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Roland Schmitt 2012 Altenberg de Bergbieten Grand Cru Les Jardins de Aurélien Gewurztraminer (Alsace)GewürztraminerDomaine Roland Schmitt
2443624435FranceThere is a whole orchard full of apples here: crisp and green, yellow and juicy, red and mellow and also the very aromatic red-cheeked kind. These aromas fill nose and palate and present a wonderful balance between fruity richness and absolute zesty freshness. This is lissom, dry and light bodied but full of flavor with a very mellow apple finish.Ehrhart Schlossberg Grand Cru9230AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Saint-Rémy 2014 Ehrhart Schlossberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace)RieslingDomaine Saint-Rémy
2443724436FranceThe nose is subdued at first but then opens up into ripe apple notes with the zesty spice of grapefruit rind. The palate is dry and concentrated and adds a riper notion of juicy yellow plum while a bright lemony citrus streak keeps everything taut and lively. This is joyful, subtle and fresh and finishes on a pure apple note.Saering Grand Cru9230AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaines Schlumberger 2013 Saering Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace)RieslingDomaines Schlumberger
2443824437USA big-shouldered red made predominantly of Cabernet Sauvignon with a balance of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this wine offers bold, firm tannins and heaps of body. Blackberry, chocolate mocha and clove flavors meet crayon and graphite notes in a mashup of classic and ripe styles.9295CaliforniaHowell MountainNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneDuckhorn 2012 Red (Howell Mountain)Bordeaux-style Red BlendDuckhorn
2443924438USBeautifully integrated oak and a firm structure combine in this rather tight but superbly balanced wine. It smells like black cherries and tastes like raspberries and blueberries, accented by toasted baguette, cinnamon and fresh cedar notes. The finish is long and lightly spicy. Best after 2018.Made With Organic Grapes9216CaliforniaCaliforniaCalifornia OtherJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsBonterra 2014 Made With Organic Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon (California)Cabernet SauvignonBonterra
2444024439AustraliaThis is a fine example of what Barossa Shiraz is capable of at a realistic price. It's full bodied and richly textured, plush without being too soft. French oak brings a smoky, bacony element to the ripe blueberry fruit, plus a dusting of baking spices that lingers on the finish. Drink now–2025.Twins9225South AustraliaBarossaJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzMaverick 2014 Twins Shiraz (Barossa)ShirazMaverick
2444124440SpainHeady aromas of cola, blackberry and licorice set up a youthful choppy palate with hard tannins and a sense of skins. Blackberry, licorice and charred toasty oak flavors finish dry, spicy and with a strong note of dark chocolate. Drink through 2028.Perfume de Sonsierra9253Northern SpainRiojaMichael Schachner@wineschachSonsierra 2013 Perfume de Sonsierra (Rioja)TempranilloSonsierra
2444224441ArgentinaRipe aromas of blackberry, raisin and cassis blend nicely with graphite and vanilla notes. There's a mild, brooding power to this wine but mostly it's lush and generous, with warm blackberry, prune and licorice flavors. A smooth finish hums along with no tannic bite or hardness. Drink through 2016.Alfa Crux93Mendoza ProvinceUco ValleyMichael Schachner@wineschachO. Fournier 2009 Alfa Crux Malbec (Uco Valley)MalbecO. Fournier
2444324442FranceShaped like a butterfly (papillon), this vineyard is one of the best known in Savennières. It is very rich and ripe, from a warm vintage. With its apricot and pear flavors and opulent texture, it brings out the potential of Chenin Blanc. So age this wine for 5–6 years more. Screwcap.Clos du Papillon93Loire ValleySavennièresRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine des Baumard 2009 Clos du Papillon (Savennières)Chenin BlancDomaine des Baumard
2444424443FranceA mature and ripe wine, with great nut and biscuit flavors to go with the full yellow fruits. An impressively dense wine, it's a wine that can age, but is ready to drink now. Screwcap.Trie Spéciale93Loire ValleySavennièresRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine des Baumard 2010 Trie Spéciale (Savennières)Chenin BlancDomaine des Baumard
2444524444FranceBig, fruity, mature wine, showing a petrol character as well as a rounded texture and a shot of minerality. The wine is both chewy and generous, packed with fruit skins and green bean-acidity. It is ready to drink, very fresh.9349Loire ValleySavennières-Roche-Aux-MoinesRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine FL 2008 Savennières-Roche-Aux-MoinesChenin BlancDomaine FL
2444624445PortugalFrom a great year in the Douro, this is a complex, impressive wine. It has elegance rather than brute power, pushed forward by smooth yet dry tannins and ripe black fruits. A touch of spice, balanced acidity and a great potential for aging. Drink from 2016.9334DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerQuinta da Romaneira 2009 Red (Douro)Portuguese RedQuinta da Romaneira
2444724446USThis estate-grown, single-vineyard Pinot Blanc is succulent, tart and tangy, with lightly spicy citrus, kiwi and starfruit flavors. The lingering finish, lightly flecked with dried herbs, shows amazing grip and texture, with a mineral ridge across the mid palate. Great elegance and length.9217OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Ponzi 2011 Pinot Blanc (Willamette Valley)Pinot BlancPonzi
2444824447PortugalThis is a tannin-dominated wine that's dark and firm in style. It has the weight of juicy black fruit layered with acidity and a dry, wood-aged core with a strong, mineral profile. Drink from 2017.92DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerQuinta de la Rosa 2010 Red (Douro)Portuguese RedQuinta de la Rosa
2444924448USRich, medium dry, and loaded with lemon, orange and citrus scents and flavors, this is a marvelous wine graced with a lush, textural, mineral-drenched mouthfeel. Despite the low alcohol there is just the gentlest touch of sweetness from 8 g/L residual sugar.Revana Vineyard9228OregonDundee HillsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Alexana 2012 Revana Vineyard Riesling (Dundee Hills)RieslingAlexana
2445024449PortugalThe top wines in Aveleda's Follies range (named after eccentric buildings) are Grande Follies. This serious, concentrated wine is richly full of ripe tannins, dark black fruits and a powerful structure. It has the weight and tannin to age for several more years.Grande Follies Vinhas da Quinta da Aguieira92BairradaRoger Voss@vossrogerAveleda 2009 Grande Follies Vinhas da Quinta da Aguieira Red (Bairrada)Portuguese RedAveleda

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