Wine Reviews


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2466124660USRipe, premium fruit and fairly high alcohol levels define this wine. A hot year and ripe fruit combine to create complexity in the nose, with an interesting mix of spices (cardamom, clove), lots of tannin, some darker fruit, and hints of smoke and earth. The only down side: it lacks weight and it finishes very tannic.Reserve8835OregonUmpqua ValleySouthern OregonPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Girardet 1999 Reserve Pinot Noir (Umpqua Valley)Pinot NoirGirardet
2466224661ItalyMildly grassy in the nose, with accents of fig, melon and citrus rind. It's got some hay and funky earthiness to the otherwise tangy, citrus-driven palate. The acidity isn't overpowering, so the mouthfeel is a bit creamy. Overall it's a good mainstream wine unlikely to offend anyone.8819Northeastern ItalyFriuli AquileiaFoffani 2000 Sauvignon Blanc (Friuli Aquileia)Sauvignon BlancFoffani
2466324662USButtered toast and baked bread aromas announce that this is a well-oaked SB. Apple, melon and lemon flavors all get support from powerful oak, while the finish is spicy, toasty, warm and full. This is a flavorful, full-bodied wine, but it is on the opposite end of the spectrum from lean.8816CaliforniaLake CountySteele 1999 Fumé Blanc (Lake County)Fumé BlancSteele
2466424663SpainThis is quite meaty, oaky and powerful, with a buttery texture supporting soft citrus, melon and green apple flavors. A smoky, toasty finish screams of the oak treatment it went through, and while it's soft and luscious throughout, it's a tad flat as well.Fransola8822CataloniaPenedèsTorres 2000 Fransola Sauvignon Blanc (Penedès)Sauvignon BlancTorres
2466524664ItalyHere's a super Tuscan that's made for food, not fireside sipping. It's full of red fruit, mostly currants and plum. There's a menthol/eucalyptus element in there as well. It's already into its aging process and it'll be at its best in another couple of years. However, for a well-regarded wine that's all Cabernet, it is a tad thin in the middle.Selvamaggio8827TuscanyToscanaMichael Schachner@wineschachVilla La Selva 1997 Selvamaggio Cabernet Sauvignon (Toscana)Cabernet SauvignonVilla La Selva
2466624665USAll stainless steel fermented using Dijon clones. A clean, delicate style, but with an elegant touch and nuances of honey, clove. Very well balanced and textured, with a light but long progression of flavors.8816OregonRogue ValleySouthern OregonPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Paschal 1999 Chardonnay (Rogue Valley)ChardonnayPaschal
2466724666USTheir estate Chardonnay is all barrel fermented. A bigger style, with lots of texture but not too much oak. Leesy, creamy, with buttery, tropical fruit. Again, well-balanced and stylish.Estate8818OregonRogue ValleySouthern OregonPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Paschal 2000 Estate Chardonnay (Rogue Valley)ChardonnayPaschal
2466824667ItalyVery ripe, with earthy aromas of black plum, berry liqueur and bitter chocolate. The mouthfeel is meaty and muscular, but not hard. A wall of moderate tannins builds after a few sips, but the overall feel is still soft. The finish is medium in length, with adequate depth.Riserva - Don Alberto8840TuscanyChianti ClassicoMichael Schachner@wineschachLe Miccine 1998 Riserva - Don Alberto (Chianti Classico)SangioveseLe Miccine
2466924668ItalyIn this vintage, Monsanto's flagship wine, made from 90% Sangiovese Grosso, is a prime example of traditional Chianti. It features racy, dry cherry fruit, hard edges and structure galore. Whether it will evolve into a more open and friendly wine remains to be seen; normally Il Poggio ages well and improves in the bottle.Il Poggio Riserva8850TuscanyChianti ClassicoMichael Schachner@wineschachCastello di Monsanto 1998 Il Poggio Riserva (Chianti Classico)Sangiovese GrossoCastello di Monsanto
2467024669New ZealandThis restaurant favorite struts its stuff in the nose, providing an ample blast of pungent grapefruit, passion fruit and mint. The palate is mildly grassy, with yet more grapefruit along with touches of flint and stone. The finish is clean and proper, with citrus flavors flowing on a stream of vital acidity.Reserve8818MarlboroughBrancott 2001 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough)Sauvignon BlancBrancott
2467124670USAbout 40% is barrel aged and put through malolactic. This is a heavier, more substantial effort than their regular Chardonnay, with more butterscotch flavors showing. With good fruit, some weight and texture, it's well made and a good value.Blue Moon8810OregonOregonOregon OtherPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Bridgeview 2000 Blue Moon Chardonnay (Oregon)ChardonnayBridgeview
2467224671USDijon clone again. This has just the vaguest hint of onion, but otherwise is much improved over this property's '99. There is good, juicy, crisp fruit mixing apple/apricot and light citrus. Balanced acids and a well integrated middle that leads into a somewhat hot, stiff finish. Young and edgy, but well made.Clos du Soleil Vineyard8835OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Domaine Serene 2000 Clos du Soleil Vineyard Chardonnay (Willamette Valley)ChardonnayDomaine Serene
2467324672New ZealandWith almost 2% residual sugar, you might expect this wine to taste sweet. It does—to a point. The strong lime-like finish provides a balancing counterpoint that makes this floral wine very drinkable with food. Clove and cinnamon notes add complexity to ripe pear fruit.Classic8815MarlboroughJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzFramingham 2001 Classic Riesling (Marlborough)RieslingFramingham
2467424673New ZealandSome oak adds butter, vanilla and cream to the nose, and then melon, banana and citrus come on in spades on the palate. The barrel influence provides a fine mouthfeel, and the finish is properly acidic, tangy and eminently clean. Even with the oak, this is a sure thing with shellfish.Reserve8815Hawke's BayMills Reef 2001 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Hawke's Bay)Sauvignon BlancMills Reef
2467524674New ZealandRounder and plummier than you might expect, thanks to only 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the rest being Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Nicely integrated cedar, mocha and dried herb notes round out the flavors, finishing with fresh acidity. Drink now–2005.Private Bin8819Hawke's BayJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzVilla Maria 2000 Private Bin Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Hawke's Bay)Cabernet Sauvignon-MerlotVilla Maria
2467624675FranceThis wine sees only 10–15% new oak, which allows the gritty peach and tangerine fruit flavors to shine through, dressed up by hints of toasted hazelnuts. White peaches and a powdered talc texture give the impression of richness without excess weight. Finishes long, with notes of mineral and citrus.8842BurgundyPuligny-MontrachetLouis Latour 2000 Puligny-MontrachetChardonnayLouis Latour
2467724676USA bit soft and heavy in structure, with cherry, cola and sandalwood flavors. Pretty good, but at this price, it needs greater vibrancy and depth. Drink now.8545CaliforniaSanta Cruz MountainsCentral CoastKings Mountain 2007 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains)Pinot NoirKings Mountain
2467824677USPinot maestro Longoria continues to try his hand at Bordeaux blends despite the uphill challenge. This '07 is a Cab Franc-based bottling. It's uneven, with cherry pie filling flavors, edgy tannins and unintegrated sweet, caramelized oak. There's even a bit of heat from high alcohol. Ready now.Evidence8538CaliforniaSanta Barbara CountyCentral CoastLongoria 2007 Evidence Red (Santa Barbara County)Bordeaux-style Red BlendLongoria
2467924678GermanyIf the first duty of an icewine is to be sweet, this satisfies that need. Its sugar is also reasonably balanced in this case by 10% alcohol and crisp acids. What's missing is the purity of fruit, as some slightly singed, earthy notes creep into its aromas and finish.Penguin Eiswein8563RheinhessenJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzLouis Guntrum 2007 Penguin Eiswein Silvaner (Rheinhessen)SilvanerLouis Guntrum
2468024679SpainFloral, sweet and not the least bit complicated or strained. This is easygoing red wine for easy times. It's a bit candied and baked, but that's Garnacha from Central Spain. Decently balanced and sturdy, especially given the price tag.856Northern SpainCampo de BorjaMichael Schachner@wineschachViña Borgia 2008 Grenache (Campo de Borja)GrenacheViña Borgia
2468124680USA good everyday Zinfandel whose full-bodied, spicy fruitiness will satisfy with barbecue. It's a rugged, somewhat rustic wine with briary flavors of wild blackberries, leather, cola and pepper. Drink now.Conte Vineyard8518CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaWine Guerrilla 2008 Conte Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian River Valley)ZinfandelWine Guerrilla
2468224681FranceHard and unyielding for Viognier, with lemon and mineral elements that seem a bit out of character for the variety. Nevertheless, it's a crisp refreshing white for the summer.Le Viognier8530France OtherVin de Pays des Portes de MéditerranéeJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzDomaine Juliette Avril 2007 Le Viognier Viognier (Vin de Pays des Portes de Méditerranée)ViognierDomaine Juliette Avril
2468324682USA hard, tannic wine, this shows concentrated raspberry fruit flavors, but does not have the fullness and texture of this winery's 2006 releases. Perhaps it's the vintage character, or maybe the wines were somehow stripped during vinification. Give it lots of aeration.Olivia Vineyard8532OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Apolloni 2007 Olivia Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirApolloni
2468424683USA little overripe and underripe around the edges, with mint and plumped raisin flavors framing the black cherries and cedar. Good, but rustic, and ready now.8512CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaCastle Rock 2007 Merlot (Napa Valley)MerlotCastle Rock
2468524684FranceA green wine showing fruits that are underripe. While it has some soft flavors, red berries and simple tannins, that green underlay is a major downside.85BordeauxPauillacRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Croizet-Bages 2007 PauillacBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Croizet-Bages
2468624685FranceVery fresh, with well-judged wood and very juicy fruit, a wine that is almost shocking in its youthful acidity. It bursts in the mouth, fruit and bright.8523BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau de Fonbel 2007 Saint-ÉmilionBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau de Fonbel
2468724686FranceThis is a disappointment. The wine is tart, stalky and, at the same time, light. It has an edge of green that suggests underripe fruit. Developing fast.8524BordeauxMargauxRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Siran 2007 MargauxBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Siran
2468824687USThis has plenty of cranberry and raspberry fruit flavor, supported with juicy, mouth-cleaning acidity. Beyond that, it's a simple, food-friendly quaffer.8524OregonSouthern OregonSouthern OregonPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Cliff Creek 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Southern Oregon)Cabernet SauvignonCliff Creek
2468924688ItalyA distinctive mineral vein runs through this crisp white wine from the Cusumano brothers of Sicily. Made in Alcamo, in the southwest part of the Mediterranean island, the wine is fresh, easygoing and offers a touch of piquant spice on the close.Alcamo8510Sicily & SardiniaAlcamoCusumano 2008 Alcamo White (Alcamo)White BlendCusumano
2469024689USDoesn't have quite the concentration of many more expensive Merlots, but fills a nice niche in an affordable red wine that's full-bodied, dry and elegant. Offers pleasant flavors of cherries, red currants, cola and oak.8510CaliforniaCaliforniaCalifornia OtherCycles Gladiator 2007 Merlot (California)MerlotCycles Gladiator

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