Wine Reviews

2478124780FranceThe wine is ripe and rounded, full of red cherry and raspberry flavors. It has weight and enough richness while not losing its acidity.9022ProvenceCoteaux d'Aix-en-ProvenceRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Vignelaure 2010 Rosé (Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence)RoséChâteau Vignelaure
2478224781FranceProduced from the Clos Mireille, within sight of the Mediterranean, this fresh-faced wine shows peach and citrus flavors rounded by ripeness, although with an attractive tangy aftertaste.Clos Mireille Blanc de Blancs9040ProvenceCôtes de ProvenceRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaines Ott 2009 Clos Mireille Blanc de Blancs White (Côtes de Provence)White BlendDomaines Ott
2480224801FranceThis estate, dating to the 18th century and close to the Gironde estuary, has produced a rich wine. Young tannins and fine fruity acidity are both present in a wine that is serious and dense. Its weight, ripeness and the potential of the black-currant fruit will all allow it to age. Drink from 2022.9342BordeauxSaint-EstèpheRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Le Boscq 2014 Saint-EstèpheBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Le Boscq
2478324782South AfricaThis limited-production Syrah (3,200 bottles produced) spends 18 months in French and American oak, providing a sweet spice and chocolate backdrop to the wine's bright red berry aromas and flavors. Accents of foresty foliage and black pepper add additional complexity to the lush mouth. Drink now–2014.Estalét9026Western CapeLauren Buzzeo@laurbuzzBizoe 2008 Estalét Syrah (Western Cape)SyrahBizoe
2480324802FranceUnder the ownership of Jacky Lorenzetti, president of one of France's top rugby clubs, this estate is now performing impressively. The wine is finely structured with dark tannins and tight acidity and a hint of minerality. It is Merlot dominated, although it is the 40% Cabernet Sauvignon that brings out the black-currant fruitiness. Drink from 2022.9325BordeauxSaint-EstèpheRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Lilian Ladouys 2014 Saint-EstèpheBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Lilian Ladouys
2480424803FranceThis second wine of Château Palmer is dense and structured. With ripe swathes of black fruits and juicy Merlot showing strongly, it already displays the potential of the vintage. Generous and ripe, the wine has a fine level of perfumed tannin. Drink from 2023.Alter Ego de Château Palmer93BordeauxMargauxRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Palmer 2014 Alter Ego de Château Palmer (Margaux)Bordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Palmer
2478424783USBrilliant acidity gives this wine a clean raciness that so many Sauvignon Blancs lack. It has ripe, forward flavors of lemons, limes, apricots, peaches and honey, but despite the richness is dry and minerally.9025CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaTwomey 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley)Sauvignon BlancTwomey
2480524804USA lush and expressive bottling from a brand new vineyard, this shows candied black cherry, Vietnamese coffee, baking spice and licorice on the approachable nose. The ripeness extends to the palate, hemmed in by a tannic structure that ensures long aging. Asian pepper, rum barrel, caramel and cherry flavors complete the picture.Greengate Ranch & Vineyard9346CaliforniaEdna ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannClaiborne & Churchill 2015 Greengate Ranch & Vineyard Pinot Noir (Edna Valley)Pinot NoirClaiborne & Churchill
2478524784USThis is a preview of Swan's vineyard-designated '09s yet to come, and it sure is exciting. It's a beautiful, sensual wine, rich in acidity and delicious in raspberries and cherries. Near perfect for drinking now.Cuvée de Trois9029CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaJoseph Swan Vineyards 2009 Cuvée de Trois Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirJoseph Swan Vineyards
2480624805FranceSlightly funky notions appear first: There's a hint of reduction but this, thankfully, blows off. Underneath sits a very sprightly, very fresh wine that pits fruity apple mellowness against total, dry freshness. This has a concentrated core, the aromas are still a little tinged by the flinty, smoky hints of reduction but this will stand them in good stead for cellar age. Give this some time. Drink 2020–2030.Hengst Grand Cru9346AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Barmès-Buecher 2014 Hengst Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace)RieslingDomaine Barmès-Buecher
2478624785USSmooth and rich, the first release of the new vintage from Le Cadeau is a gem. Tangy berry/cherry fruit is framed in chocolate, while balancing acidity props up softer, caramel streaks. The finish brings a wash of citrus, leaving the mouth feeling clean and ready to sip again.Oregon9040OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Le Cadeau 2009 Oregon Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirLe Cadeau
2480724806FranceThere is something floral and tender, even creamy on the nose. The palate on the one side has a creamy apricot and peach aspect, on the other a totally taut and brisk lemon-lime streak. This makes for tension and interest. This is concentrated and exciting, dry and very, very enjoyable. Drink now through 2025.Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé Grand Cru9337AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Jean Sipp 2013 Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace)RieslingDomaine Jean Sipp
2480824807FranceThere is just a faint touch of honeysuckle on the nose. The palate follows with creamy floral peach notes on an incredibly light-bodied fluid palate of great intensity and stony depth. It is only on the aftertaste that the full volume and power of these aromatics shine. This feels like the aromatic heart of Alsace itself.Clos Saint-Théobald Grand Cru Rangen9345AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoDomaine Schoffit 2013 Clos Saint-Théobald Grand Cru Rangen Muscat (Alsace)MuscatDomaine Schoffit
2478724786USIt took Vina Robles some years to figure Cabernet out, but they did it. The Huerhuero now is one of Paso's best bottlings, at a fair price. Dry and sufficient in acidity, its blackberry, cassis and dark chocolate flavors are comparable to a fine Napa Cab. Drink over the next few years.Huerhuero9022CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastVina Robles 2008 Huerhuero Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles)Cabernet SauvignonVina Robles
2478824787FranceA delicious food rosé, rich and rounded with a good structure and a bite of acidity. Red apple and pink grapefruit complement the sweeter berry fruits. The extra year of aging before release has brought some sophistication.Esclans9035ProvenceCôtes de ProvenceRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau d'Esclans 2009 Esclans Rosé (Côtes de Provence)RoséChâteau d'Esclans
2480924808ItalyLeafy underbrush, new leather, dark berry and chopped herb aromas waft out of the glass. The fresh, chewy palate doles out succulent wild cherry, ripe raspberry, white pepper and cinnamon notes, blanketed in smooth, round tannins. A licorice note caps off the finish. It's already delicious but will also offer fine drinking over the next several years. Drink 2018–2024.9350TuscanyBrunello di MontalcinoKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeRidolfi 2012 Brunello di MontalcinoSangioveseRidolfi
2478924788PortugalEncruzado is the Dão's star white grape, able to produce, as here, a wine that combines a great sense of style, some weight, along with the freshest of lemon tints. There is some fullness as well, while the final taste is crisp.Cabriz Encruzado9015DãoRoger Voss@vossrogerDão Sul 2009 Cabriz Encruzado Encruzado (Dão)EncruzadoDão Sul
2479024789ArgentinaDense on the nose, with a mix of black fruit aromas and mild herbs. The palate is properly acidic and elevated, with complex flavors of coconut, plum, berry, mocha, chocolate and spice. Quite oaky but the oak comes across well, i.e. friendly mocha and coffee. 64% Malbec with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Tannat.Amano Remolinos Vineyard9050Mendoza ProvinceAgreloMichael Schachner@wineschachFinca Decero 2008 Amano Remolinos Vineyard Red (Agrelo)Bordeaux-style Red BlendFinca Decero
2479124790PortugalWood-aged wine that shows pedigree and style. It has red berry fruit flavors, firm tannins along with acidity and a dry core. It's a serious wine, for aging over 4–5 years.Reserva8914DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerCastello d'Alba 2008 Reserva Red (Douro)Portuguese RedCastello d'Alba
2481024809USThis intriguing new cuvée showcases the mineral-driven terroir of the contributing vineyards, chosen for soils derived from ancient seabeds. Its chewy minerality wraps around tight blackberries, enhanced with a lick of dark chocolate threading through stiffening tannins.Ancient Waters9375OregonWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Roco 2014 Ancient Waters Pinot NoirPinot NoirRoco
2479224791PortugalThere is certainly some of the Dão minerality in the texture of this wine. It's main thrust is berry fruit, which is filled out with some attractive tannins, spice from wood and final acidity.Casa de Santar8915DãoRoger Voss@vossrogerDão Sul 2008 Casa de Santar Red (Dão)Portuguese RedDão Sul
2479324792USThe vineyard from which this wine is sourced sits along the Gualala River in view of the Pacific Ocean, enjoying coastal weather and elevations of up to 1,100 feet. Baked blueberry pie laced with clove is the first impression, supported by bright acidity. Exotic in profile, it imparts cedar and tea notes, its tannins fine yet tenacious.McDougall Vineyard9362CaliforniaFort Ross-SeaviewSonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneDutton-Goldfield 2014 McDougall Vineyard Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview)Pinot NoirDutton-Goldfield
2479424793USThis wine opens in a flurry of pungent apple blossom and orange zest aromas. On the palate, it shows a zesty fullness of apple, Meyer lemon and lemongrass flavor, complemented by competing notions of stony minerality and lush creaminess on the finish.Estate9350CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneErnest & Julio Gallo 2014 Estate Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)ChardonnayErnest & Julio Gallo
2479524794AustraliaNamed for the special format of small oak barrel it's aged in, this has soaked up the oak impressively. Hints of vanilla and graham crackers accent mixed berry fruit, while the finish is long and mouthwatering. There's ample concentration, yet the wine never seems heavy. Drinkable now, but why rush things? Drink 2020–2030.The Octavius Old Vine93120South AustraliaBarossaJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzYalumba 2012 The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz (Barossa)ShirazYalumba
2479624795USAs Willamette Valley vintners continually improve and redefine Oregon Chardonnay, a distinctive profile is emerging. This vivid and taut mineral-driven wine could be the poster child. The citrus, apples and pears bring a light touch of baking spices, extended length and surefire ageability. Plus, it's a fine value for a wine of such quality.Estate9334OregonChehalem MountainsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Alloro 2014 Estate Chardonnay (Chehalem Mountains)ChardonnayAlloro
2479724796USEarthy and dark fruit-driven, this is a richly rewarding, fruity wine, ripe in blackberry, clove and cocoa. From an estate vineyard named for Benovia proprietor's two mothers, Martha and Eleanor, it offers the appellation's classic elements of savory clove and cola.Martaella9360CaliforniaRussian River ValleySonomaVirginie Boone@vbooneBenovia 2014 Martaella Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)Pinot NoirBenovia
2479824797USSeared lemon, hazelnut, brown butter and sandalwood with a graphite minerality come through on the nose of this complex wine from Jonathan Nagy. The palate offers hints of herbs and chamomile at first, then washes of citrusy acidity and apple notes, all held together with steely tension.Bien Nacido Vineyard9340CaliforniaSanta Maria ValleyCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannByron 2014 Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley)ChardonnayByron
2479924798FranceOwned by the Vialard family, this is a very fine wine. While it does have strong wood flavors at this young stage, they are going to be there to support the ripe jammy fruit. The wine from this 111-acre estate is generous and is going to age well. Drink from 2022.9322BordeauxHaut-MédocRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Cissac 2014 Haut-MédocBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Cissac
2480024799FranceOwned by art collector Philippe Raoux, who has filled the park of the chateau with impressive sculptures, this estate produces serious and complex wines. This latest release continues in that tradition. It is rich, structured and full of swathes of black fruit. The wine will take time, so wait until 2021.9330BordeauxMargauxRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau d'Arsac 2014 MargauxBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau d'Arsac
2480124800FranceThis is the second wine of Grand Cru Classé Château la Gaffelière. It revels in ripe juicy Merlot while keeping a sense of style and elegance. Produced by the Malet-Roquefort family, owners since 1705, the wine has some firm tannins while never losing sight of the generous black fruits. Drink from 2022.Clos la Gaffelière93BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau la Gaffelière 2014 Clos la Gaffelière (Saint-Émilion)Bordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau la Gaffelière

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