Wine Reviews


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2644226441USQuite light in color, there is a red-cherry and strawberry base to the aroma of this bottling, which is laser-focused and redolent with scents of a morning hike through the chaparral, fresh with wild mint and sage. The palate starts round with strawberry, then tightens on cranberry and winds up on tart plum skins, all peppered with a grippy white sage spice and structure.La Rinconada Vineyard9460CaliforniaSta. Rita HillsCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannChanin 2014 La Rinconada Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills)Pinot NoirChanin
2644326442USExtremely delicate on the nose, this wine from the historic vineyard shows bruised yellow grapefruit, sliced nectarine and crushed chalk aromas. The evolving palate starts daintily with cut apple and nectarine, then warms into seared peach, buttered popcorn and ripe pear flavors. A chalky, seashell-like structure and pithy texture ensure a long, interesting life. Drink 2018 through 2034.Sanford & Benedict Vineyard9445CaliforniaSta. Rita HillsCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannChanin 2014 Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills)ChardonnayChanin
2644426443FranceRipe and generous, this floral wine is dense with fruit as much as tannins. It is full of blackberry and plum flavors, ripe while also cut with acidity. The spice that comes from the wood aging shows well, adding a further element. Drink the wine from 2022.Les Amoureuses Premier Cru94355BurgundyChambolle-MusignyRoger Voss@vossrogerAlbert Bichot 2014 Les Amoureuses Premier Cru (Chambolle-Musigny)Pinot NoirAlbert Bichot
2644526444FranceThis wine is already well balanced. Ripe strawberries and red cherries are shot through with the acidity of the vintage. The tannins are present, complementing the already attractive fruits. The aftertaste shows the considerable potential with its tannins. Drink from 2020.Les Cazetiers Premier Cru94145BurgundyGevrey-ChambertinRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Faiveley 2014 Les Cazetiers Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin)Pinot NoirDomaine Faiveley
2644626445GermanyPristine layers of guava, blossom and green plum are etched by crushed stone and acid in this pure, crystalline Auslese. It's ethereally light with a delicate sweetness that meanders long on the finish. Drink now to enjoy its youthful exuberance but hold a few back to savor over the next decade.Brauneberger Juffer Auslese9446MoselAnna Lee C. IijimaFritz Haag 2014 Brauneberger Juffer Auslese Riesling (Mosel)RieslingFritz Haag
2644726446USThis is a powdery, pillowy and richly lush wine that flirts with voluptuous tendencies of soft, juicy red fruit, yet offers pretty floral elements and complex seasonings of cinnamon and nutmeg on the nose. At the same time, the underlying grip provides structure and depth. Decant or hold through 2022.94110CaliforniaSt. HelenaNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneAnomaly 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena)Cabernet SauvignonAnomaly
2644826447FranceSteely and tight, this is a mineral-driven wine. With its vibrant acidity and tense texture, it is a classic Chardonnay that will fill out slowly and evolve favorably with time. Beneath the tension and forward acidity is a rich wine, though it needs time to show it. Drink from 2020.Les Folatières Premier Cru94171BurgundyPuligny-MontrachetRoger Voss@vossrogerChanson Père et Fils 2013 Les Folatières Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet)ChardonnayChanson Père et Fils
2644926448USThis calmly seductive wine has a deep, dark color, absolutely gorgeous fruit, wood smoke and baking spice aromas and a gentle texture that lets all the berry, black-cherry and pomegranate flavors soak into the taste buds. While quite full-bodied, it's easy on the tongue but does have an extra fine-grained wrapping of tannin to keep it firm. Best from 2020 through 2030.Blueline Estate94125CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsHourglass 2013 Blueline Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Cabernet SauvignonHourglass
2643126430FranceBig, juicy and smoky, this powerful wine comes from vines in the center of the vineyard. Black fruits and firm tannins dominate the richness of the wine with its dark structure and concentration. A touch of chocolate and licorice partners with the generous fruits. Drink from 2024.94299BurgundyClos de VougeotRoger Voss@vossrogerDomaine Jacques Prieur 2014 Clos de VougeotPinot NoirDomaine Jacques Prieur
2645026449USA dark color and lots of fresh-fruit aromas lead to deep, ripe black-cherry and red-cherry flavors that taste clear and delicious. With more sipping, light spicy oak nuances emerge, including a touch of cinnamon and vanilla, but nothing gets in the way of the grapes' expression. Although full bodied, the wine is gentle in texture with just enough crispness and light tannin for good balance.Estate9460CaliforniaAnderson ValleyJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsLazy Creek 2014 Estate Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley)Pinot NoirLazy Creek
2645126450USGreat aromatic complexity and richly layered fruit flavors propel this full-bodied, sophisticated and deep wine. An array of cinnamon, clove and cedar notes blend with ripe black cherry and blackberry, while firm, fine-grained tannins seem to lift them up. Best to drink after 2020.Ten Degrees94120CaliforniaAnderson ValleyJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsGoldeneye 2013 Ten Degrees Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley)Pinot NoirGoldeneye
2645226451FranceThis is a rich wine from several parcels of vines in the Clos de Vougeot. It has great intensity, powered both by tannins and by the dark black fruits. Serious and concentrated, the wine will age magnificently. Drink from 2024.Domaine du Clos Frantin94306BurgundyClos de VougeotRoger Voss@vossrogerAlbert Bichot 2014 Domaine du Clos Frantin (Clos de Vougeot)Pinot NoirAlbert Bichot
2645326452FranceOne-quarter of the Clos des Maréchaudes is classified Grand Cru, as the soil and the slope change. This shows in the power of the wine with its smoky tannins and dark character. Black fruits and a dense texture signify a wine with power and longevity. Drink from 2022.Domaine du Pavillon Clos des Maréchaudes94150BurgundyCortonRoger Voss@vossrogerAlbert Bichot 2014 Domaine du Pavillon Clos des Maréchaudes (Corton)Pinot NoirAlbert Bichot
2645426453GermanyA note of waxy honeycomb glazes the nose and palate of this lusciously ripe dry Riesling. Its rich almost oily mouthfeel is deeply satisfying, but balanced keenly with spurts of bright white grapefruit and lemon zest. Its finish is long and penetrating, marked by complexities of saffron and pollen.Oestrich Doosberg Trocken GG9470RheingauAnna Lee C. IijimaPeter Jakob Kühn 2013 Oestrich Doosberg Trocken GG Riesling (Rheingau)RieslingPeter Jakob Kühn
2645526454USBalance, depth, detail and elegance are the hallmarks here. Pretty raspberry/cherry fruit comes up quickly, framed in proportionate acids and tannins. Streaks of malt powder, caramel and mocha weave through a long, subtle finish. Drink now through 2025.Reserve9445OregonDundee HillsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Stoller 2014 Reserve Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills)Pinot NoirStoller
2643226431GermanyWhile slight in alcohol, there's a profound textural richness to this stunning dry Riesling. Bold yellow-peach and orange flavors command the palate but are shaded by cascades of wet stone, petrol and smoke reminiscent of the wine's volcanic origins. It's a powerful wine calibrated by spry acidity and a deep, persistent finish.Vulkangestein Trocken9439NaheAnna Lee C. IijimaSchäfer-Fröhlich 2013 Vulkangestein Trocken Riesling (Nahe)RieslingSchäfer-Fröhlich
2643326432ItalyMade with 70% Nerello Mascalese and 30% Nocera, this has enticing scents of mature red berry, pressed blue flower, tilled soil and a whiff of crushed stone. The vibrant palate doles out juicy black cherry, raspberry compote, orange zest and bitter hazelnut. Bright acidity and well-integrated tannins provide balance while a mineral note gives it depth. Drink 2020–2030.Peloro9420Sicily & SardiniaTerre SicilianeKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeLe Casematte 2014 Peloro Red (Terre Siciliane)Red BlendLe Casematte
2643426433FranceThis wine comes from a vineyard surrounded by Grand Crus. It delivers a huge, smoky palate that is firm with tannins and dense with structure and fruit. The wine is rich, still shot through with the freshness of the vintage. Black fruits are balanced by the dry core of the wine. It will age well, and should not be drunk before 2022.Aux Combottes Premier Cru94115BurgundyGevrey-ChambertinRoger Voss@vossrogerNicolas Potel 2014 Aux Combottes Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin)Pinot NoirNicolas Potel
2643526434USThis wine pulls everything together for great enjoyment: vivid, fresh fruit aromas and a dash of oak spice, deep and layered fruit flavors like ripe but tangy black cherries, and a powerful but soothing texture that carries along all those flavor impressions through a long finish. Best now through 2020.Five Barrel9468CaliforniaAnderson ValleyJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsLazy Creek 2014 Five Barrel Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley)Pinot NoirLazy Creek
2643626435GermanySweet and savory go hand-in-hand in this intensely smoky, yet penetratingly fruity wine. It's a deeply mineral Spätlese, marked by dark, dusty streaks of slate, yet brimming with vibrant tangerine and peach flavors. A spike of electric acidity leads a long, long finish.Kiedrick Turmburg Spätlese9492RheingauAnna Lee C. IijimaRobert Weil 2014 Kiedrick Turmburg Spätlese Riesling (Rheingau)RieslingRobert Weil
2643726436USThis vineyard, often featured in the Sineann lineup, moves over to WildAire for this sensational debut. The blend is a two-clone mix of 777 and Pommard, and it captures a range of delicate, well-defined flavors. Raspberry, cherry, light char, smoke, pepper, bitter herb, vanilla and camomile tea come rolling through. The prime location, which borders on Jadot's Résonance vineyard, contributes a great deal, but the winemaking brings it on home.Yates Conwill Vineyard9445OregonWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine WildAire 2014 Yates Conwill Vineyard Pinot NoirPinot NoirWildAire
2643826437USSleek and sappy, this was fermented with native yeast and aged nine months in 50% new French oak. There's a spine of iron keeping it a bit stiff and compact, with concentrated fruit flavors of crème de cassis. Still young and slightly grapey, it's best to cellar it a few more years, for a drinking window of 2020 to 2030.Reserve9475OregonApplegate ValleySouthern OregonPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Cowhorn 2012 Reserve Syrah (Applegate Valley)SyrahCowhorn
2643926438USAll biodynamically raised estate fruit comprises this marvelous Viognier, which spent four months in 40% new French oak. The full-bodied, perfect ripeness mixes apple, pear and apricot, with a gentle kiss of caramel from the short-term barrel aging. The length and balance set the standard for top-flight domestic Viognier.Reserve Estate Grown9450OregonApplegate ValleySouthern OregonPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Cowhorn 2014 Reserve Estate Grown Viognier (Applegate Valley)ViognierCowhorn
2644026439USThis most appealing Chardonnay offers a deluxe display of Meyer lemon, baked pear and toasted marshmallow flavors in a ripe and creamy style. That lush core is focused and framed with ample acidity, and suggests a decade (at least) of life ahead. Drink now through 2026.Etoile Vineyard9475OregonDundee HillsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Domaine Serene 2013 Etoile Vineyard Chardonnay (Dundee Hills)ChardonnayDomaine Serene
2644126440USSeductive ripe, oaky and almost sweet flavors make this full-bodied wine easy to love. The plump blackberry and boysenberry flavors coat the palate while hints of nutmeg and vanilla spice up the aromas and continue through the finish. Concentration and a sense of layering close the deal.Rinaldi Vineyard9436CaliforniaFiddletownSierra FoothillsJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsFiddletown Cellars 2013 Rinaldi Vineyard Zinfandel (Fiddletown)ZinfandelFiddletown Cellars
2645626455USA nontraditional blend of 44% Zinfandel, 31% Syrah, 15% Merlot and 10% Petite Sirah, this bottling shows tight blueberry, milk chocolate, river rocks and rose petals on the dynamic nose. The palate is juicy with more blueberry and vanilla, but bound by a plum-skin tartness and a decently strong tannic grip.Improv9338CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannÉcluse 2013 Improv Red (Paso Robles)Red BlendÉcluse
2645726456USA standout among the winery's single-vineyard selections, this big-boned effort brings flavors of chewy cherry alongside a citrus highlight and a definite underpinning of wet stone and clay. Texturally compelling, it should age gracefully through 2024.Clay Court9360OregonChehalem MountainsWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Elk Cove 2014 Clay Court Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains)Pinot NoirElk Cove
2645826457ItalyThis fragrant red offers alluring scents of rose, red berry and cake spice. The radiant, structured palate is endowed with finesse, offering ripe black cherry, raspberry, licorice and flinty mineral. Firm, refined tannins and bright acidity provide the framework. Drink 2020 through 2025.Rosso9330Sicily & SardiniaEtnaKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeGraci 2014 Rosso (Etna)Nerello MascaleseGraci
2645926458USThis blend of 52% Syrah, 25% Grenache and 23% Mourvèdre is quite sultry on the nose, with crushed boysenberry, dried violets, wet clay and the slightest touch of soy. Pepper and moist earth arise on the palate, alongside blackberry and blueberry fruit, a touch of cocoa and concentrated lavender and other purple-flower flavors.Sisu9345CaliforniaPaso RoblesCentral CoastMatt Kettmann@mattkettmannkukkula 2012 Sisu Red (Paso Robles)Rhône-style Red Blendkukkula
2646026459ItalyAged in small oak barrels, Ripasso La Traversagna most definitely shows a worldly, sophisticated side that is marked by aromas of exotic spice, clove and mature berry. That cool crispness on the close holds the wine firmly together.La Traversagna8850VenetoValpolicella Classico Superiore RipassoMonte Faustino 2007 La Traversagna (Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso)Corvina, Rondinella, MolinaraMonte Faustino

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