Wine Reviews


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2685626855USVeteran winemaker John Abbott (Chalone, Canoe Ridge, Abeja) jumps back on the Pinot Noir wagon with this new project. This is the second vintage for his Freedom Hill designate, a vintage that was notoriously difficult due to monsoon-like rains mid-harvest. Abbott cajoles the grapes into an elegant, refined expression of high-acid Pinot Noir. Slightly saline, with mountain strawberry fruit and autumnal (forest floor) accents, this is lean but polished, and should cellar well now through 2022.Freedom Hill Vineyard9050OregonOregonOregon OtherPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Devona 2013 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Oregon)Pinot NoirDevona
2685726856PortugalFrom vineyards in the upper Douro Superior, this single estate Vintage Port is dense and richly sweet. It has the right tannic structure, perfumed black fruits as well as a dense, concentrated character. It is just setting out on its aging, and will be best from 2025.Vinha de Castelo Melhor Vintage9058PortRoger Voss@vossrogerDuorum 2013 Vinha de Castelo Melhor Vintage (Port)PortDuorum
2685826857SpainRich berry and graham-cracker aromas announce a ripe, easygoing Monastrell-Syrah blend. Chewy and slightly sinewy in feel, this offers heaps of tasty but creamy oak and vanilla to go with spicy, herbal berry fruit. A creamy, thick finish is fitting for a warm-climate wine like this.Marionette9018LevanteJumillaMichael Schachner@wineschachEgo Bodegas 2014 Marionette Red (Jumilla)Red BlendEgo Bodegas
2685926858USThis complex, already ready Pinot melds flavors of fruit, root, spice and earth in a bold, almost over-the-top style. Blueberry, root beer, cola and soft leather components come into play, with a dried-cracker character as it resolves in the back of the palate. Best for near term enjoyment.9030OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Eisold-Smith 2014 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirEisold-Smith
2686026859USA quick impression of vitamin pill gives way to highlights of lemon oil and caramel apples. The flavors continue in a fruit-forward vein, with a mix of ripe peaches and cantaloupe. This is a wine to enjoy while in the first blush of its youth.9019OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Elk Cove 2015 Pinot Blanc (Willamette Valley)Pinot BlancElk Cove
2686126860ItalyElegant and fresh, this lovely sparkler opens with aromas of white spring flower, white stone fruit and a whiff of pastry. The silky, vibrant palate delivers crisp apple, pear, citrus and a mineral note alongside firm acidity and an elegant perlage.Brut Nature Metodo Classico90PiedmontAlta LangaKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeFontanafredda 2005 Brut Nature Metodo Classico Sparkling (Alta Langa)Sparkling BlendFontanafredda
2686226861FranceBased for three generations in Chouilly on the Côte des Blancs, this producer offers a nonvintage Champagne that is attractively fruity, soft and creamily textured. Bright acidity is balanced by pear and white-peach flavors. This fruity wine is ready to drink.Réserve Brut9042ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerGauthier-Christophe NV Réserve Brut (Champagne)Champagne BlendGauthier-Christophe
2686326862SpainAromas of fresh citrus fruits, crushed vitamins and nectarine are pleasant and welcoming. This offers good acidic cut and overall balance. Flavors of stone fruits focus on apricot and nectarine, while the finish is elegant.Etiqueta Verde9019GaliciaRías BaixasMichael Schachner@wineschachGranbazán 2015 Etiqueta Verde Albariño (Rías Baixas)AlbariñoGranbazán
2685126850USRichness and breadth are the strong suits of this full-bodied, deep-colored and ripe-tasting wine. Showing little oak character, it smells like blackberries and tastes like black cherries and clove. Moderate tannins balance against the fruitiness.Alder Springs Vineyard Reserve9038CaliforniaMendocinoJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsCity Winery Chicago 2013 Alder Springs Vineyard Reserve Syrah (Mendocino)SyrahCity Winery Chicago
2685226851USSoft in tannin and oak, this wine shows a cool-climate profile, its grapes sourced largely from Mount Veeder's mountainous terrain. Blackberry pie, cedar and crushed herb combine nicely alongside integrated power and full-bodied concentration.9058CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneDarioush 2013 Merlot (Napa Valley)MerlotDarioush
2685326852FranceBottled in a replica of a 19th-century crystal carafe, this wine is a blend of crus from the Montagne de Reims. On the dry side of brut, it has a lively sliced apple and citrus character as well as refreshing, lively acidity. The wine is ready to drink.Princes Blanc de Noirs Brut9072ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerDe Venoge NV Princes Blanc de Noirs Brut Pinot Noir (Champagne)Pinot NoirDe Venoge
2685426853FranceA crisp, red-currant flavored wine, this offers bright acidity and an attractive tangy texture. In its hallmark De Venoge carafe bottle, it is pure Pinot Noir with the addition of red wine from Pinot Noir to give its pale salmon-pink color. Drink now.Princes Rosé Brut9090ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerDe Venoge NV Princes Rosé Brut Pinot Noir (Champagne)Pinot NoirDe Venoge
2685526854FranceDry while also fruity, this is crisply textured and crisp to taste. Red-currant and orange-zest flavors blend well with a mineral texture to leave a clean, deliciously fruity aftertaste.Cuvée Rosé Brut9049ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerDevaux NV Cuvée Rosé Brut (Champagne)Champagne BlendDevaux
2686426863ItalyMade with Nerello Mascalese, this opens with aromas of flint, ripe orchard fruit and a whiff of baked bread. The dry palate shows red apple, flint, lemon drop and Mediterranean herb alongside bright acidity and a persistent, elegant perlage.Brut Metodo Classico8945Sicily & SardiniaEtnaKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeAntichi Vinai 1877 2011 Brut Metodo Classico (Etna)Nerello MascaleseAntichi Vinai 1877
2686526864FranceKnown for its pink-metallic bottle cover and signature “Ace of Spades” logo, this fresh-faced wine is crisp and zesty. The wine, with a pale salmon-pink color and lively mousse, is light and full of red-currant fruit that keeps it bright. Dry, young and fruity, it's made by the Cattier house for entrepreneur and rapper Jay Z. Drink now.Brut Rosé89450ChampagneChampagneRoger Voss@vossrogerArmand de Brignac NV Brut Rosé (Champagne)Champagne BlendArmand de Brignac
2686626865ItalyMade with 100% Pinot Nero, this lively sparkler offers sensations of red berry, tangerine, a hint of pastry dough and a dash of cake spice. Crisp acidity lifts the creamy texture.Rosé8945LombardyFranciacortaKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeBarone Pizzini 2012 Rosé Pinot Nero (Franciacorta)Pinot NeroBarone Pizzini
2686726866GermanyHints of lemon shortbread, fresh apple and white flower unfold on the nose of this delicately honeyed wine. On the palate, sweet white-peach and yellow-cherry flavors run just a shade off dry. Easy going and fresh, it finishes long, with a streak of tangerine acidity.Dom Off-Dry8918MoselAnna Lee C. IijimaBischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2015 Dom Off-Dry Riesling (Mosel)RieslingBischöfliche Weingüter Trier
2686826867USThis proprietary blend combines 52% Cabernet Franc, 34% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, another in its line of Aaron Pott-made wines. It's lovable in its austerity and varietal suggestions of dried herb, cedar and green bean. Dusty, soft tannins support a full-bodied, straightforward structure.Paramour89135CaliforniaNapa ValleyNapaVirginie Boone@vbooneBlackbird Vineyards 2013 Paramour Red (Napa Valley)Bordeaux-style Red BlendBlackbird Vineyards
2686926868SpainSpicy, toasty black-fruit aromas set up a firm palate with wrenching tannic grip. Spicy flavors of dark plum and blackberry are typical of this type of Monastrell blend. Peppery notes and herbal accents are up front on the finish.C8914LevanteJumillaMichael Schachner@wineschachBodegas Carchelo 2014 C Red (Jumilla)Red BlendBodegas Carchelo
2687026869FranceA rich hint of apple crumble precedes tart notes of lemon freshness. The palate fizzes with frothy bubbles and gives the impression of lightness and ease. A very clean-cut, sprightly and refreshing finish almost hides the more serious autolytic backdrop of this elegant, fine-fruited Crémant.Blanc de Blancs Brut89AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoBoeckel 2014 Blanc de Blancs Brut Auxerrois (Alsace)AuxerroisBoeckel
2687126870FranceVery faint notes of red berry are supported by floral overtones on the nose. The palate has pleasantly bitter elements that enhance the yeasty notes of bread crust. The body remains light while the finish is dry and balanced.Brut Rosé89AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoBoeckel 2014 Brut Rosé Pinot Noir (Alsace)Pinot NoirBoeckel
2687226871FranceCreamy notes of Red Delicious apple are tinged with hints of shortbread on the nose. These become more forward on the creamy palate as the frothy mousse amplifies them. This is dry, restrained and elegant with a wonderfully refreshing finish.Brut Rosé8919AlsaceAlsaceAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoBott Frères NV Brut Rosé Pinot Noir (Alsace)Pinot NoirBott Frères
2687326872USPut this into the budget category (for Oregon Pinot Noir) where it shines. Fruity and forward, there's plenty to like in the mix of orange flesh and rind, and strawberry and cherry hard candy. The fruit is backed with ample tannin, and a warm touch of mocha and toast fills in the finish.8928OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Brooks 2014 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirBrooks
2687426873USJuicy fruit flavors carry a pleasantly candied character, dappled with hints of cinnamon and pepper flakes. It's broad and appealing, with a touch of mint enlivening the finish.8918OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Brooks 2015 Pinot Blanc (Willamette Valley)Pinot BlancBrooks
2687526874ItalyAromas of citrus, orchard fruit and a subtle whiff of toast lead the nose on this delightful sparkler. The straightforward palate shows yellow apple skin, bitter walnut and a note of baked bread alongside firm, vivacious bubbles.Cuvée Prestige Metodo Classico8940LombardyFranciacortaKerin O’Keefe@kerinokeefeCa' del Bosco NV Cuvée Prestige Metodo Classico Sparkling (Franciacorta)Sparkling BlendCa' del Bosco
2687626875USRich in body but light in tannins, this warm, generous wine fills the mouth and eases down the throat. It has a good mélange of cherry, strawberry and floral aromas, satisfying fruit flavors and a nicely soft finish.Estate Bottled8925CaliforniaEl DoradoSierra FoothillsJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsCedarville 2013 Estate Bottled Grenache (El Dorado)GrenacheCedarville
2687726876FranceWhile the wood flavors are prominent, they don't mask the ripe berry fruits in this Merlot-dominant blend. Blaye sister-brother team of Marie-Pierre et Pierre-Charles Dartier produced a wine with a rich character. It is full of wood spice, hints of mint and acidity. Drink from 2019.Tradition8915BordeauxBlaye Côtes de BordeauxRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau Cailleteau Bergeron 2014 Tradition (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux)Bordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau Cailleteau Bergeron
2687826877FranceThe wine shows the firm tannins of the vintage. They give a dry core that will probably remain. However, there is also a fine layer of fresh black-currant fruit that gives a fine lift to the wine at the end. It will be ready soon, drink from 2017.8940BordeauxSaint-ÉmilionRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau de Lescours 2011 Saint-ÉmilionBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau de Lescours
2687926878FranceAll the elements are present in this young wine. It has plenty of red fruit, touches of plum and spice. The tannins are firm while leaving plenty of room for the fruit. A wine that will be comfortably drinkable from 2018.8916BordeauxBordeaux SupérieurRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau de Parenchère 2014 Bordeaux SupérieurBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau de Parenchère
2688026879FranceFull of red fruits as well as spicy wood flavors, this is a rich wine that has a fine concentrated texture. It is firm at the moment, showing layers of toast and wood from a year in oak barrels. Allow the ripe fruit to come through and drink from 2019.8920BordeauxCadillac Côtes de BordeauxRoger Voss@vossrogerChâteau La Caussade 2014 Cadillac Côtes de BordeauxBordeaux-style Red BlendChâteau La Caussade

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