Wine Reviews


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2751127510AustriaThis wine's nose gives little more than a suggestion of zesty ripeness. The palate, on the other hand, is full of friendly, lively fruit. Crisp green and yellow apple and ripe citrus pervade its slender but joyful frame. Zesty and fresh, it only faintly hints of the variety's usual nuttiness.8921BurgenlandAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoTinhof 2016 Neuburger (Burgenland)NeuburgerTinhof
2751227511FranceThe vines of Saint-Tropez are often within sight of the sea in the hills above the famous resort. This single-estate wine from a property managed by the Saint-Tropez cooperative contrasts fresh fruit and acidity with a generous ripe texture. It is soft, fruity and ready to drink now.Château la Moutte8932ProvenceCôtes de ProvenceRoger Voss@vossrogerVignobles de Saint-Tropez 2016 Château la Moutte Rosé (Côtes de Provence)RoséVignobles de Saint-Tropez
2751327512SpainApple, peach and yeast aromas are welcoming but a little wayward. This brut nature shows roundness on the palate and no coarseness. Briny apple and dried-apricot flavors are calm on the finish.Brut Nature Vintage8920CataloniaCavaMichael Schachner@wineschachVilarnau 2013 Brut Nature Vintage Sparkling (Cava)Sparkling BlendVilarnau
2751427513SpainFloral melon and peach aromas are mellow. This feels round, with citrusy acidity cutting into the body. Basic grapefruit and apricot flavors are friendly, while this is a touch foamy on the finish.Reserva Brut Rosé8918CataloniaCavaMichael Schachner@wineschachVilarnau NV Reserva Brut Rosé Sparkling (Cava)Sparkling BlendVilarnau
2751527514AustriaThe fruitiness of fresh, green Conference pears fills the nose of this wine. Its palate is more subdued, with streamlined, citrus freshness, compact body and a dry, refreshing finish.Stephanus8912KamptalAnne Krebiehl MW@AnneInVinoWeixelbaum 2016 Stephanus Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal)Grüner VeltlinerWeixelbaum
2751627515USThis elegant nectarine-scented Riesling is a notable solo project by Hazlitt winemaker Michael Reidy. It's deft on the palate, but offers plenty of ripe quince and tangerine flavors accentuated by zesty lime acidity. It finishes moderately long.R Is For8913New YorkFinger LakesFinger LakesAnna Lee C. IijimaAttic Cellar 2014 R Is For Riesling (Finger Lakes)RieslingAttic Cellar
2751727516USImmaculate freshness abounds in this zesty Chardonnay. While supple and quite creamy on the palate, pristine lemon and pear flavors and a vibrant backdrop of lemony acidity invigorate. Elegantly meshed vanilla and spice tones linger on the finish.1866 Reserve8921New YorkSeneca LakeFinger LakesAnna Lee C. IijimaBellangelo 2014 1866 Reserve Chardonnay (Seneca Lake)ChardonnayBellangelo
2751827517USA chalky, mineral aroma leads to lively green apple and dried herb flavors. This wine is light-bodied and subdued but has enjoyable, savory flavors to complement its moderate fruitiness and an easy elegance that separates it from the pack.8923CaliforniaYolo CountyCentral ValleyJim Gordon@gordone_cellarsBerryessa Gap 2015 Sauvignon Blanc (Yolo County)Sauvignon BlancBerryessa Gap
2753527534SpainConsistency is apparently not Fransola's calling card. One year it's pungent and green, and then in a warm year like 2006 it's fruity, ripe and sweet, with green apple, pear and tropical fruit flavors making their mark. Seems like Sauvignon Blanc in Catalonia needs ample heat to show the ginger, lime and apple characteristics that make it a likable. In this case, that's mostly what's on display.Fransola8829CataloniaPenedèsMichael Schachner@wineschachTorres 2006 Fransola Sauvignon Blanc (Penedès)Sauvignon BlancTorres
2753627535USTart and racy, this sets up the palate for spicy fare with bracing acids and scents of citrus skins. It is the first-ever Riesling for A to Z, a nod perhaps to the growing demand for these wines, especially on the West Coast. Flavors mix citrus, white flowers, strawberries and spice, with a finishing lick of minerality.8813OregonOregonOregon OtherPaul Gregutt@paulgwine A to Z 2006 Riesling (Oregon)RieslingA to Z
2753727536USThis lighter, fruit-forward Syrah from Abacela showcases the spicy, peppery side of the grape. These may be younger vines, or simply less ripe than the fruit that went into the other Syrah, but it is still a very attractive wine, with sweet raspberries, black pepper and rock. A fine balance of acid and tannin provides the right structure for near-term drinking.Umpqua Cuvée8819OregonSouthern OregonSouthern OregonPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Abacela 2004 Umpqua Cuvée Syrah (Southern Oregon)SyrahAbacela
2753827537SpainAbelis Carthago's top wine, Fighting Bulls, is also its toughest to enjoy. There's overripeness and barnyard on the nose, and thus the prune, black plum and jammy berry flavors that control the palate are not surprising. Big and forceful for sure, but also choppy and incongruent across the palate.Fighting Bulls8860Northern SpainToroMichael Schachner@wineschachAbelis Carthago 2004 Fighting Bulls (Toro)Tinta de ToroAbelis Carthago
2753927538ItalyThe hot vintage definitely left its mark on this Cabernet Sauvignon from the Montalcino area. Coffee, vanilla, fudge and espresso bean are backed by jammy fruit and ripe berries. In the mouth, it shows firm tannins and good length.Tavernelle8841TuscanySant'AntimoCastello Banfi 2003 Tavernelle Cabernet Sauvignon (Sant'Antimo)Cabernet SauvignonCastello Banfi
2754027539SpainRipe and honeyed, but also nicely balanced by flower blossom aromas and acidic zest on the palate. For straightforward apricot and peach flavors, this wine serves its purpose. It's smooth, sweet and easygoing, and overall it's just elegant and lively enough to jostle your palate.Miguel Asensio Vino Dulce de Moscatel8822Spain OtherSpainMichael Schachner@wineschachAsensio 2006 Miguel Asensio Vino Dulce de Moscatel Moscatel (Spain)MoscatelAsensio
2751927518SpainName and reputation get you only so far, as this underwhelming offering from a poor vintage proves. Compact stewy aromas of baked berry fruits and asphalt are the appetizer. A main course of chunky jammy stewy berry and prune flavors finishes with a desiccated essence. Unico is known to age for decades, but not this vintage. Drink now for what it's worth.Unico89500Northern SpainRibera del DueroMichael Schachner@wineschachVega Sicilia 2008 Unico (Ribera del Duero)Tempranillo-Cabernet SauvignonVega Sicilia
2752027519IsraelA smooth, velvety textured wine, full of slightly overripe dark cherry, raspberry and plum with accents of cassis, tea and spice that thrill the palate. Closing with a clean and silky finish, this wine is sure to be a crowd pleaser. It's 60% Cab, 30% Merlot and 10% Shiraz.Wadi Katlav Kosher8847Judean HillsLauren Buzzeo@laurbuzzKatlav 2005 Wadi Katlav Kosher Red (Judean Hills)Red BlendKatlav
2752127520USHigher in alcohol than Kenwood's regular '05 Sonoma Zin, this one's hotter and more full-bodied. It's got a density that can stand a little bottle age. Give it two or three years to soften, and let the blackberry, cherry and coffee fruit emerge from the tannins.Reserve8820CaliforniaSonoma CountySonomaKenwood 2005 Reserve Zinfandel (Sonoma County)ZinfandelKenwood
2752227521SpainClassic old-school Gran Reserva. The nose is full of barbecue, molasses and dried plum, while the palate has complexities in the form of tobacco, tire rubber and earth. It goes somewhat citrusy and quick on the finish, ending in a wash of orange-infused leather and chocolate. Drink now or hold for another 5 years.Gran Reserva8825Northern SpainRiojaMichael Schachner@wineschachMarques de Arienzo 1998 Gran Reserva (Rioja)TempranilloMarques de Arienzo
2752327522SpainThere's no denying the wine's raisiny ripeness; it's confirmed via Sherry/Port aromas and black plum/baked fruit flavors. But it's not simply a heavyweight on its last legs. To the contrary, the wine delivers a jolt of core intensity and finishing notes of spicy black pepper and licorice. Drink right away.Reserva8819Northern SpainRiojaMichael Schachner@wineschachMarqués de la Concordia 2004 Reserva (Rioja)TempranilloMarqués de la Concordia
2752427523SpainThe essence of 2005 is captured in this creamy, rich offering that touches up against overripe but pulls back into balance at the last moment. Expect soft tannins, lots of coconutty oak and molasses notes along with a limited but easygoing finish. Drink soon.y Llanahermosa8845Northern SpainRibera del DueroMichael Schachner@wineschachMontecastro 2005 y Llanahermosa (Ribera del Duero)TempranilloMontecastro
2752527524PortugalA firm, ripe wine, with great red fruit flavors, dark tannins and an edge of coffee. There is some toast element here in this still young wine. Hopefully the just overripe fruit edge will disappear as it develops.8819DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerQuinta de Ventozelo 2004 Tinta Roriz (Douro)Tinta RorizQuinta de Ventozelo
2752627525USSpindrift's reserve bottling does not seem substantially different from its regular 2005 Pinot, except that it extends its flavors through a much longer and smoother finish. Bright red fruit flavors mix raspberry and blueberry with milk chocolate. An impression of spun sugar wraps up the finish.Reserve8838OregonWillamette ValleyWillamette ValleyPaul Gregutt@paulgwine Spindrift Cellars 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)Pinot NoirSpindrift Cellars
2752727526ItalyNot as intense as other Tolaini wines, this Sangiovese (with 15% Merlot) doles out measured portions of prune, plum, black cherry, leather, resin and tobacco. In the mouth, it has cherry flavors, dense tannins and a long finish.Al Passo8820TuscanyToscanaTolaini 2004 Al Passo Sangiovese (Toscana)SangioveseTolaini
2752827527ItalyThe wine opens with aromas of lush cherry fruit, cola, coffee and leather. It boasts very good intensity, chewy tannins and ripe succulence on the finish. A Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blend.Borgoforte8812TuscanyToscanaVilla Pillo 2005 Borgoforte Red (Toscana)Red BlendVilla Pillo
2752927528SpainCabernet Sauvignon and Monastrell made in a ripe, high-alcohol style results in monster aromas of shoe polish and black licorice. The palate is a wave of chocolate and candied black fruits that crashes into a heavy, ultraripe finish of prune and pepper. A lunker wine with a sweet smile and a big handshake.88130LevanteJumillaMichael Schachner@wineschachEl Nido 2003 Red (Jumilla)Cabernet BlendEl Nido
2753027529GermanyStrongly petrolly and slaty, with those powerful elements backed by apple and pineapple notes. It's plump for a kabinett, weighing in at 10.5% alcohol, but balanced and easy to drink now.Westhofener Kabinett8820RheinhessenJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzGroebe 2005 Westhofener Kabinett Riesling (Rheinhessen)RieslingGroebe
2753127530GermanyThis medium-bodied kabinett features an appealing lushness to its texture—it's not a slim, racy wine but instead offers hints of honey and diesel oil balanced by ripe apples and citrus. Drink now.Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Kabinett8819Mosel-Saar-RuwerJoe Czerwinski@JoeCzMatheus 2005 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Kabinett Riesling (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)RieslingMatheus
2753227531PortugalThis wine is flavorful, with plenty of blackberry fruit, as well as a dense, tannic heart. The fruit's edges are smoothed by the wood aging, but it is still fruit that dominates, ripe, hearty and packed with acidity to finish.Quinta do Cachão8810DouroRoger Voss@vossrogerMessias 2004 Quinta do Cachão Touriga Franca (Douro)Touriga FrancaMessias
2753327532PortugalMade from the Arinto grape, this wine has a lively, vibrant, lifted green fruit character, very crisp like apple skins, deliciously fresh, with just some caramel edges to round it out. To finish, it shows some structure from the crisp acidity.88BucelasRoger Voss@vossrogerQuinta do Avelar 2004 Arinto (Bucelas)ArintoQuinta do Avelar
2753427533PortugalA juicy, spicy wine, packed with open, generous black fruits. The blend of Castelão and Trincadeira gives blackberries, some raisins and a smooth chocolate underlay.Falcoaria8816RibatejoRoger Voss@vossrogerQuinta do Casal Branco 2004 Falcoaria Red (Ribatejo)Portuguese RedQuinta do Casal Branco

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